sirposted

cant seem to find it any ware new, ill hit the junk yard if i have too. The 120a that came with the car blew so i bought another one it blew instantly

FallenOne

iTrader: (17)

The Junk Yard, Drivers side fuse box. You'll need to remove the box in order to remove the fusible link. 2 screws on the fender, than take off the lid, pull the sides apart and undo the 2 bolts to it.

nsnrider

iTrader: (59)

if the fusible link blew as soon as you replaced it, that means you have a short somewhere. No point in installing a higher amp fuse as it will either blow or burn/melt the wires. Fix the problem then replace the fuse with the proper amp rating. Those things are there for a reason, to protect the wires and the electronics.

sirposted

but how do i find the short if the whole car isn't getting power

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

How did it blow instantly? Did you replace the fusible link, connect the battery, then turn the key to start the car, only to have it blow then? Or did it go immediately when you connected the battery? Retracing those steps will start you in the process of figuring out what went wrong.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

Was anything done to the car prior to the fuse blowing (likely)? Or did this just happen out of the blue (unlikely)?
You may have an issue with your alternator. Check the thick red wire running from your battery through the 120A fuse and to the alternator. Disconnect the thick red wire running to your alternator and see if the fuse still blows. If not your alternator may be shorted. Do not install a 140A fuse as this will not solve your problem.

GGENIUS

iTrader: (1)

i had no luck finding anything about 120a at any auto store. i had to get mine from a dealer when i totaled my car, it was upwards of 40 bucks IIRC. but worked like a charm.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

With an OHM meter.

adroitcaptor

What does this have anything to do with the OP?!

When did 4th gen fill with trolls?

@njmax Wait... what is an ohm? (Consider the OP and figure your post means nothing to him based on his assumption and proposed fix. I doubt he owns, knows how to use, or as a [multi]meter)

As stated above, tell us the sequence of events. If you messed with the alt or near it recently check that but do not start guessing and checking!

Sent from my Android phone.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

If we are going to assume the OP has that little knowledge of electronics, then we should highly recommend that he have someone else with electrical experience look into this. Having someone with limited knowledge mess around with high amperage circuits can get dangerous.

adroitcaptor

Everyone has to grow up sometime my friend. However, I am a ideological constitutionalist and believe we need to help people 'learn how to learn'... So @OP:

Dude, there are 'hot' wires and 'earth' wires. The hot ones have a positive charge and the earth can be viewed as a inert connector safe to taste like dirt. If you lick the positive wire it will shock or kill you depending on the circuit and application.
Fuses are like moms, they stand in the hallway and make sure the children do not run crazy down the hall. When the kids run too fast and have too much fun the mom gets burnt out and whines at the dad becoming worthless to us until replaced... But effectively stops the children (usually because we spank them) but always because no one can use the ha
Circuits are like road networks; wires like roads. Big roads can be more dangerous then others but get more work done. If you dead end a big road where it should not, then bad things happen. (Especially into the hallway where mom does not want you to play with your matchbox cars.) This is what you are looking for... trying to find where the dead end is.
When you check OHMs you are finding out if the road is connected between two points. If you check for V you are seeing how fast traffic is going. A is how much traffic there is side by side (like in a traffic jam). Getting hit by a car sucks but being hit by a lot at once is deadly.

All that may be completely wrong and inapplicable. I am writing this from my phone after a 20 hour day 13 of which were at work. GL

sirposted

Well i just bought it, the car wasn't holding a charge so i got a new bat it would still die. I replaced the alternator fired up fine held a charge fine, but my interior lights and tail lights would not work. I checked every single one of my fuses they are all good i go under the hood and i noticed the 120a fuse blew so i replace it i go to put the negative terminal down it pops instantly now nothing is coming on even with a jump or full charge ...........i have a multimeter and a test light

p.s i used some of that gunk engine cleaner on the whole engine bay but i didn't spray it all over. I spray some on my rag and gave every component a wipe down

sirposted

Thank you "adroitcaptor" i see ware your coming from, now when you said trying to find where the dead end is. i realized i have allot of disconnected stuff like the blinkers in the bumper i relocated those to my side markers in my r34 headlights and just removed the side marker plug with the female end of harness all together and taped up the male end. Would that be considered a dead end?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

An unplugged wire harness connector is most certainly a dead end, but it will not cause fuses to blow. The unplugged connector creates an OPEN circuit where electricity cannot flow. Whatever is on that open circuit simply does not work due to the absence of electricity.

Fuses blow when you have a SHORT circuit. A short circuit is where you have too much electricity flowing. Too much electricity flowing can also cause the wires to burn up if a proper amperage fuse is not in the circuit. This is why you should not put higher amperage fuses in when the original fuse blows.

While you said that you replaced the alternator, I would still recommend that you disconnect the battery wire from the alternator and see. Even new parts can go bad.

You can get the fuse at autozone -

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...152125_0_86935

sirposted

i can under stand that new parts can go bad but that quick? the car sits i haven't put it on the road yet. this was only in a week span now its sitting with a tender charger on it

so you want me to disconnect the wire that's bolted or the wire plugged in to the alternator? And put in a new fuse? Then what do i do?

sorry for the questions i want to fully understand

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

It's spelled where "W"H"E"R"E" not ware.

hornepirate

iTrader: (23)

On the terminal of the alternator there should.have been a small plastic cap. Did you remove that cap then hook the wire on it?

I work at a shop and have seen this happen and cause the fusable link to blow

sirposted

yea i did remove a lil thing off the terminal because the loop at the end of the wire wouldn't fit it has these flanges keeping it from laying flat on the plastic, i thought it was part of the packaging(it went plastic piece nut). so now there's a nut at the bottom of the terminal with the loop and another nut holding it down. (nut loop nut) I bent the flanges up so it wouldnt toutch the alternator, got a new fuse and it blew again. what can i put there if i cant find the piece

sirposted

sorry at work not paying attention

GGENIUS

iTrader: (1)

uh, he asked where to find a 140a fusible link. and i told him where i found mine when i needed one. was it really that complicated??

adroitcaptor

@GGENIUS I read your post verbatim. Thus I assumed, like many others seem to enjoy, you were sharing your experience without regard to the issue at hand. (You wrote "about" when you evidently intended to type "but".)
That said, I was trying to help the OP with his problem - the fix for which was not buying the wrong fusible link.

@sirposted I am somewhat confused as to how you originally came about this problem. If you could help clarify some questions, I believe I could be of better assistance.

1) Is this a California spec car and the 120A FL you are referring to is for the charging system? (If not then where are you seeing this?)
2) When you first encountered this issue had you done any work to the car at all? (If so what?)
3) When you say, "I just bought it." What did you just buy?
4) You said that the vehicle started up and some lights did not work so you checked the fuses and saw the 120A was blown again. Was the car still on when you were checking and the fuse went as you were looking?
5) Regarding question "4", When this happened, how many times previous did this happen. (Is this what the OP is about or what happened when you tried to fix the problem the OP is about.)

Please do your best to answer each question. Please read each question carefully before you answer. I rather you give too much information than too little. And lastly, please be as specific as possible.

If I am understanding you correctly, I might request that you take pics. Do you have the means to do this? (e.g. camera phone) I can shoot you my number or something in a PM if you cannot / do not want to upload pics to the forum.

GGENIUS

iTrader: (1)

yes, i did type one word wrong, and i was literally only answering his original question. not attempting to solve the route problem at all.

sirposted

1) not a California spec car

2) the problems started when the new alternator went in the only thing i did to the alternator was remove that plastic piece on the terminal (on the alt) because the wire wouldn't fit so now its nut wire nut but the wire is not touching the alternator housing at all. I put in a new blinker plug and hard wired it together because the male end was a little broken. I wiped the engine bay with gunk engine cleaner.

3) 95 max gle 98 motor with a oovi swap

4) yes the car was on, i dont know when the original popped i just found it broken and replaced it instantly then that one poped.

5) i only replaced it twice second time i replaced it i bent those lil flanges on the end of the alternator wire up so it wont touch the housing. taped up this exposed alarm wired i found. When i put a jump on it i watched the fuse heat up and pop inside instantly. My side markers are and fog lights are disconnected because one of them is broken and shorts out (but the one worked fine so i left the other disconnected).


Pm ur # ill send you pics

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

thank you spelling police.... engrish fail

GGENIUS

iTrader: (1)

no one could have possibly known what he meant right? ****in amateur hour over here.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The alternator probably has a shorted diode inside of it. Remove the thick wire that is held on with a nut and tape up the end of the wire. Put in another fuse and see what happens.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

your the genius.....

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

I've used a cut hanger B4.....but check the boneyard!

hornepirate

iTrader: (23)

I may have a spare doo hickey if u need it bu i imagine and chunk of plastic would work. Replace that piece then replace the link all should be good

sirposted

Ok ill give those tips a try today thanks for the help guys