Lethal

iTrader: (4)

Just purchased a 99' 5-speed a few weeks ago with 170,000 miles on it. I have been busy fixing all the little problems I have found; replacing gaskets ect.

One issue I have noticed is that the transmission shifts are not smooth. Apparently the clutch and master cylinder have been replaced recently, so I have no idea what kind of clutch is in there, it does seem heavy for a hydraulic clutch.

As far as shifting is concerned, the resistance is the same in every gear. It does not grind; it just requires some effort to get it into each gear. It does seem easier to get into gear with the car off; the play between the gears is fine. Its just the actual engagement of the gear that seems stiff.

Should I just try draining the transmission fluid and replace it with some Red Line MT-90? If that doesn't do it, maybe go get it checked at a shop? Just wanted to see if you guys had any other suggestions before I drop money at a shop. Thanks!

Lethal

iTrader: (4)

Well, I replaced the gear oil with Red Line MT-90 and it shifts better. Still not buttery smooth, but maybe I'm expecting to much out of a 14yr old car. I may replace the shifter bushing as well to see if that helps improve it further.

aackshun

iTrader: (3)

You should just buy a new tranny..

.... Namely mine

JK, seriously though check your clutch's engagement point and check for play in the clutch.

And it sucks explaining over the internet and hell even over the phone i've boggled a few people, but it's essentially how much distance does the pedal have to travel before you actually move the pressure plate/slave cyl.

If you have no idea what to feel for this is has become a two person operation, need one spotter to spot the slave and one person w/ a very light foot to slowly move the clutch pedal down and see how far it goes before moving the piston at all.

If that distance is more than oh lets say 1 inch you have some problems somewhere.

Lethal

iTrader: (4)

Thanks! I will check this out.

I have a feeling I may be being to critical. My Dad has a 98' Maxima 5-speed as well. It has the original clutch and transmission in it. I'm going to drive it this weekend to see how it compares. Maybe nissan 5-speeds are just notchy.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Generally you will find that the more low end torque an engine has, the notchier the clutch tends to be. I have a 98 civic 5 speed and my 98 I30 5speed. the honda's clutch is like butter compared to my I30. Of course someone may pipe in and say that high power honda (TL tpye S etc) have butter smooth clutchs too, and I will come back and say, but they dont have low end torque like a VQ

Lethal

iTrader: (4)

Exactly! I also own an 04' Civic Ex 5-speed. I can shift that car with 1 finger. So like you said; maybe I'm being too critical.

I have searched the forum and it does seem a lot of people complain about the notchiness of our 5-speeds. So maybe its fine and I just need to get used to it.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Like spiderman's uncle said, with great power comes great clutch effort lol

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

This trans is definitely more notchy than a civic Trans.

Aackshun already covered most of the relevant things to check if it is worse than it should be.

max1008

WHAT! a 15 year old car with the original clutch! Is there like 100K of mines on this car or something? That's insane if true

Lethal

iTrader: (4)

It is true! My Dad purchased it band new. He is meticulous about his cars; that car has probably only driven hard a couple times. I bet that engine has only been over 4500 RPM's a handful of times. I think he has 170,000 miles on it as well.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

I bought my 98 I30 with 145K miles on it. It has 178K now, and I'm pretty sure the clutch is original from factory. Apparently it was a courtesy car before because the driver's seat was worn out and all the other seats were immaculate, practically un-touched.

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

if a car has mostly highway miles the clutch won't wear out very quickly. my 96 DD max has the original clutch in it, just passed 200k the other day.

Lethal

iTrader: (4)

Have an update in case anyone wants to know. Took the car down to the local Nissan dealership and had them check it out. It was the clutch. Apparently the clutch was not replaced, so the original clutch is still in there. Kinda makes sense now, all those symptoms are congruent with a bad clutch.

So I figure Ill just have them put a new OEM clutch in there. A 1000$ gone... guess I wont be doing suspension this month...

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

$1000 for a clutch replacement?

i have a bridge for sale you might be interested in...

Lethal

iTrader: (4)

I called a couple places and $800-$1000 is the going rate for parts and labor. I chose to pay a little more to have the nissan dealership do it. I know some of the guys there and they do good work.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Before you go through that expense, make sure they're not quoting you with 'Key Value' parts.

aackshun

iTrader: (3)

Zomg yes.

If you're paying through the nose on parts minus well get the good stuff.

Hrmm @ 1k.... It might be cheaper to buy an exedy kit, fly me there and back, feed me and have me do the clutch

Lethal

iTrader: (4)

I don't think they are. Its all OEM parts from Nissan. Also this isn't just the clutch, this is for the clutch, throw out bearing, flywheel resurfacing ect. They also warranty the work for 12 months.

Edit: Just found a coupon for 15% off any major service if your car has over 75,000 miles. So it will be 850$

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

Still seems pretty steep to me, even with the discount. $150 in parts, flywheel cutting is like $50, throwout bearing comes with the clutch kit and installs in about 9.7 seconds. Warranty is nice for peace of mind though if you're worried.

back2basics

iTrader: (4)

I would insist that they install the Gen.5 clutch, bearing, pressure plate...it's a far nicer set up and you will be much happier with it.
It mounts right up and it's OEM so you know it will last a long time, but it's just stronger with a nicer more linear feel.
Insist that they give you your stock parts back and retain all the parts bags and boxes that the OEM stuff came in....it's your insurance that they put in what they said they did.
You will thank yourself later for doing it the right way the first time.

TagsCustoms

I have also the same issue I just recently bought a 99 se limited edition with plans to slam it and ive noticed thats sometimes when im clutched all the way down and I try to put it in gear it grinds and then sometimes when I gearing down and try to go into first it wont go in I really have to push it in there.

Lethal

iTrader: (4)

I don't know if this is the exact same issue as I was having. My transmission didn't grind into any of the gears. Just required more effort to go in. Sounds to me like your having a transmission issue, like some bad syncros. I'm certainly no expert though.

Lethal

iTrader: (4)

I did ask the dealership about this. He called the parts guy and he said the part number for the clutch was the same from 95-01. So I don't know if they were wrong or if nissan just decided to go to the same part number for all the replacement clutches of those years.

I will definitely have them keep the old clutch so I can take a look at it. Having them keep the oem boxes is also a good idea, I will ask that they do this as well.

Maxidave?

woah that is alot, when i changed my tranny my mechanic did it for 500$ including all the whole clutch setup. i even went with him to the grave to pull one out of a 99 than got the exedy after

Lethal

iTrader: (4)

Well I'm pretty upset at the dealership. Turns out the clutch IS one of the 'key value' clutches. I asked him as I was handing the keys off this morning. I then asked how can you say its OEM then? He said Nissan has backed the part as equal to OEM quality....whatever.. It still comes with the 12 month warranty.

I looked it up 'key value' clutches on the org there are a bunch of people saying that its crap. Although I will take that with a grain of salt cause I doubt your going to get folks on here starting threads that the 'key value' clutch has been the most amazing clutch ever. Seems like its more about the install and break in as far as reliability is concerned.

So hopefully this clutch works out fine. I don't plan on doing much as far as performance mods besides an 00vi and maybe headers and exhaust. I'm sure this clutch will be fine and if its not I always have the warranty. I will be voicing my disappointment on their little survey the dealership sends you after this is all said and done.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Be sure to get Nissan CORPORATE involved. I was screwed over twice by nissan dealerships. Once corporate was involved things were straightened out with a refund or free service.

Lethal

iTrader: (4)

Update:

Got the car back yesterday and I have to say they did a good job and the clutch grabs hard and feels good. I *****ed a bit about the 'key value' parts and they gave me an additional discount. So after it was all done, they only charged me 700$. Not to bad. Overall, now that I have the car back I'm satisfied.

I ended up killing it about 3 times on the way home cause the clutch engagement is so close to the floor now. I'm sure it will change a bit as it breaks in. So, if anyone finds this thread in the future, I have a 'key value' clutch and it seems to be a perfectly fine clutch. We will see how long it lasts..

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

Lethal, click on the link in my sig for the pacNW Maximas facebook page - we're needing more folks!

P0tter7

iTrader: (2)

i read a few more comments after this one. but 2 things

check your fluid. make your its bled probly. and also if the flywheel is cracked(have seen a bmw cracked and shifting was a *****. to come to find out the fly wheel was craxked and distroyed the clutch.)

but to comment on the honda clutch. i have a 96 integra and shifting that and the clutch is like butter. soooooooo smotth. and then driving my 97 max the clutch is wayy diff.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

I bled my clutch about 2 months ago.....fluid was plenty before and after.

Weird thing is what prompted me to bleed the clutch was because the fluid was green in color. After I finished bleeding it was all gold (I was using the standard DOT3 brake fluid). Fast forward to now and the fluid is green again.