Has anyone ever had a issue getting the knock sensor bolt tightened down?i dont know if i missed the threads or whats going on but it just wont get tight.i'm unable to see if i got the bolt in the wrong hole if there is another hole close to where it came out of.
Fixed This^

Ok here we go so the sensor is in and connected the code is still there now even if i bypass with the resistor the code is showing up and
1. i am sticking the resistor in the correct side(car side)
2. i went from having 2 codes on the scanner for the KS to 1 code

 

wrong hole is bad

iirc if you use a box wrench from the bottom you can get it to catch. Or enlist a family member with little hands to help

 

Bottom of where?theres no nut on that bolt is there?it just screws into the block right?

 

I honestly don't know...since I've never changed a VQ knock sensor in my life.

 

Make this then do it

 

It bolts right to the block.
I have a replacement harness that arrived for mine today.
Is it strange that it only has one female plug on the knock sensor side?
Seems strange to have two in and one out..

Edit: Also, is this guy on the org?
He has awesome vids.

 

Yeah that's pmohr.

 

Thank you.
Knowledgeable guy there.

Ideas about the knock sensor harness plug?

 

i thought the same thing but it looks like the 2 wires are just connected to one terminal on the sensor side i did some searching around.it must be another fine Nissan ideal.

 

Thanks.
I was picture searching and looking close at the video. Lol

 

bump

 

One wire is a shield. The other is the signal.
Check the two ground reminals at the front of the intake manifold.

 

 

Not trying to steal the thread, but when i got the knock sensor code, i "bought" one from the junkyard. Looks fine to me. But i could not fit my fat hand where the knock sensor goes to put it back in, so what i did was ran the same bolt through the sensor and a wire leading from the battery ground with a crimp on loop thingy (LOL). And ziptied it to the big bunch of cables in the engine bay (LOL again) The code is gone and i passed emissions but im not sure if it was a smart idea. I think its affecting my acceleration. But to be safe, i am adding premium gas.

 

Aaannnnddd

 

Lol just wanted to see what anybody thought. Did i do wrong or was that ok?

 

wait... what?

 

Hahahaha ok nevermind i didnt say anything.

 

no one even knows what you just said. but theres no way you actually did whatever it is you just made up. and it def didnt make the code go away.

 

Dude im not lying. I just dont know how to explain it. Point is i mounted the knock sensor somewhere else. And i dont know if it was such a good idea.

Ok i apologize for my n00bness. After those replies i went ahead and placed the knock sensor correctly.

 

It was a very bad idea. Without mounting it to the engine block you have essentially done a resistor mod. The sensor will not detect pinging.

 

Thank you very much for your response. I realized my error and fixed it properly.

 

LOL. and I was going to ask for pics of your bastardization KS isntall too..

 

FFS and i thought i was a hack dammit i done lost my title that guy got it!

 

I just replaced the knock sensor last weekend on my Maxima. I am trying the $8 part I purchased from ebay. Took no more than 20 minutes total but I used a special weapon to get the bolt back in. Here is the video link

 

well played sir "hey wheres my ten dollars?" lol

 

 

Question, would a knock sensor cause a vehicle to just shut off? 3 times on my way to work today, my car shuts off. I stopped for gas and saw this mechanic and he told me the knock sensor is the cause. Can anyone confirm this to be true. I know asking to diagnose a problem is like shooting fish in the ocean, just curious if this sensor has been known to cause these issues.

So more info that might be of assistance. I ran a code check at the local parts store and it showed codes for MAF, Vehicle Speed Sensor, Engine Coolant Temp Sensor, Knock Sensor, and Vacuum leak. I changed the Mass Air Flow 2 days ago and the car had no gas cap when I bought it, so I replaced that.

 

 

knock sensor will not cause your car to stall. period never will happen. your maf if bad will cause it to stall vacuume leak will cause it to stall and ects may cuz some issues as well

 

^thanks man

 

the knock sensor code will usual pop up with other codes like a tag along code fix your other issues and then reset the ecu and see if the code goes away

 

Will do

 

Holy **** sake ive been thread jacked!! Someone call dems po-po!

 

does anyone know if the KS will cause emissions not to pass?

I still have a code, but the CEL isn't lit. Very difficult to change since mine is a 99 cali spec

 

It depends on your state. But I believe anything newer than 95 they plug an obd2 into and read the ecu. That means any codes would cause you to fail.

 

If your in Pa no it wont pass

 

Heys guys, this might help for those wondering about knock sensor location. Yeah, it's a ***** to get to where it is, even with an arsenal of tools. My hands are pretty big and i won't be attempting to put a new one in the stock location ever again on my max, unless i do the 00vi swap. That may never happen though. Anyway, i never got my old one unbolted so i just relocated a new one to a bolt that mounts the throttle cable bracket to the upper intake manifold. I don't have any knock sensor codes now. However there may be an issue with it not detecting knock properly, but i too use premium fuel. The sensor is designed to detect a specific frequency range that only knock produces so my thoughts were...if it can detect knock in the block, it could probably detect it through the intake manifold because those frequencies would still travel throughout the connected components. I'm not claiming that this is fact but it seems logical. I don't have any means of tuning or diagnostics down to the sensor level so i can't say for certain if my engine is detecting knock and adjusting properly.

All i'm saying is that my car feels quicker and faster than before when i had the code. The code can drop ignition timing down to 5 degrees BTDC. Stock timing is 15 degrees BTDC and this is a WORLD of difference in acceleration.

Another thing to note, make sure you use a torque wrench when tightening your knock sensor bolt. Too tight will make it pick up too much knock. Too loose will not let it detect enough. Either way hurts performance.

Believe it or not, most engine knocking can't be heard or felt, so if you bolt it to something like the firewall or ziptie it out of the way, you could be damaging your engine and not know it. Using premium is a must in these VQ engines as they're considered high compression. Some people have success using mid-grade, and i wouldn't put regular in my enemies lawnmower so to some up, relocating the sensor should , IMO be safe as long as it can pickup any knock frequencies that may be present. And did i mention that my knuckles thank me for not going there with it? LOL

Hope that helps.

 

holy fukc dude that is way too long for probably a very limited amount of useful information. nobodys gonna read that. i read the first sentence lol... i posted a trick the other day that everyone needs to read... theres that little green rectangle thats totally in the way for people with big hands trying to read in the valley. it bolts into a bracket with a 10 mil nut on the bottom. if you take that thing out you can reach it MAD easy. even my huge handed self reached in.

oh, you relocated yours like a derp too? yeah so its useless now, good job. also nobody torques down their KS. seriously... and who the **** uses non regular gas in their lawn mower. you are a plethora of mis-information dude.

 

Hold on man... First i read it all lol and it seems logical and it's a great at to get rid of the code. He also didn't force this idea that its right or safe like aviation LOL

I Don't want to touch the sensor since 3 of my intake manifold bolts are not stripped lol so this is a great idea for me, plus i Use 91 or 94 all the time and luckily I do know what a faint knocking sound sounds like from my engine so i'd take the chance... Or get a new upper and lower intake manifold, which ever craps out first lol