I have a 1996 Maxima SE 5 spd with 212,000 miles. If I try to start it on a cold morning it will run for about 1 second and stop. If I start it with a slight throttle opening I can keep it running and after a few seconds it will run on its own. If it stalls and I try to start it again without a slight throttle opening, it won't even run for the 1 second and it gets harder to start with the throttle open.

I have thoroughly cleaned the the throttle body and the IAVC and replaced the ECTS. None of this has had the slightest effect. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!

 

I'm guessing replace your IACV.

 

are you getting any check engine lights on and what was the car acting like before this problem started if it did act up

 

No check engine light and no codes. Everything was fine before this started happening, and everything is fine except for this. I think I'll try replacing the IACV.

 

Make sure the cold idle plunger and linkage is working and indeed opening the throttle plate slightly when the engine is cold. It's down to the left under the throttle body. Which sensor did you replace? There are 2 engine coolant temp sensors. The one that sends info to the ECU is the one closest to the engine.

 

didn't realize there were 2 sensors. i'm having the same issue and i replaced the one by the radiator.

 

the one with a pull off rubber connector? That just sends the temp to the gauge. You needed to replace the bigger one

 

does cranking take a while or it starts rather quickly?

 

These cars have problems with maf's but sounds like u have a iacv issue. Sometimes this works. Try hitting the iacv valve with a small'll hammer. Not violent just hit it a few times while someone is starting the car. Usually these things flash a dtc but seen were they don't work and no dtc. Hope this helps

 

I have the same exact problem. In the morning when vehicle is parked overnight this happens only. NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS OR CODES.
- if you start the car, the car will crank and start up fine, but rite away the car wants to stall, unless you Tap the gas Pedal. After 5- seconds the car will,
idle and runs fine.
Drives fine.
Shifts fine.

SYMPTOMS TO TRY TO PREVENT THIS.

-put key in ignition
-turn to position 2
- do not start
- hold it in position 2 for5 seconds, seems like fuel pressure will build up.
- now start the car
- car will start fine, the car or ecu will try and compensate and adjust the idle. But will not shut off.
- do not press the gas pedal to help,

I replace the fuel filter every year or ever 2 years. When car seams to stall- the fuel filter usually fixes it.
I have a new fuel filter- 300zx part number- I HAVE NOT INSTALLED YET.
THIS WILL BE MY FIRST TIME GOING TO USE 300ZX FUEL FILTER.

- could it be my fuel pump?
- why would it be the IACV?
The car idles fine and drives fine after you start the car for the first time that day. You can stop and start the car all day the rest of the day, and the car will start and run perfect. If the IACV is bad - would I have a rough or bad idle all the time.
Any ideas, anyone?

This is on my 1998 Nissan maxima GXE
About 105,000 miles

 

iac is def. not it. test the fuel pressure if you can. turning key on-off will prime the pump, so I'd suspect it at this point.

 

- actually- when you turn the key forward to position 2. Wait 5 sec. Then repeat it. It starts. But stumbles and wants to stall almost.
In the winter cold mornings I did that.
I have a video. Starting the car, not waiting in position 2 just a 70 degree morning,Showing this problem, almost stalls.
I did not tap on the gas-
I will post it up.



The video below is showing a start with no symptoms, when I insert the key and hold it at position 2 for 5 seconds. Then start the car.
No hesitation,

 

Replace your FPR. since the PCV is nearby, may as well replace that too.

 

I did the Pcv valve last year the last time I did the fuel filter.
Where is the FPR- fuel pressure regulator located.?

Do you have a photo what it looks like?
Thank you for the quick response

 

The FPR is connected at the beginning of the fuel rail. Follow the fuel line from the fuel filter up and behind the throttlebody to the fuel rail. Lots of stuff buries the FPR so you have to remove the air filter box and MAF to see it.

Looks like this;

 

Thank you.
I will take a look.
It's going to be a pain in the butt to replace fpr.
Even the fuel filter is a pain in the butt to replace, but I will try replacing both fuel filter and fpr at the same time.
Thank you for the help.

 

While you're at it, and if you ever do injectors, replace with allen heads.
Makes it easier if you ever need to do it again and you'll likely destroy the factory screws removing them anyways.

The size you need to replace the two brass screws holding the FPR are M5-0.8 16mm.
Don't forget to pick up some M5 lock washers too.

 

How tight are these fpr screws?
I think I'm going to get napa or from rock auto fpr- I want the aluminum housing.
No plastic incase hose ends crack.

 

Very.

Some people say give the screwdriver a whack to free up the frozen screws.

I used needle nose vice grips, but I had the rail off at the time.

PB blaster can help some.

 

+1 for pointed nose vice grips. Just grab the phillips by the head and twist to loosen.

You can also use socket heads on the FPR also.

Give your Max a good mid-life refresh and it will be easy to live with afterward and love you back by running like a new one..

 

The engine looks great-
Very clean.
I like it.

 

Repost, they are called Allen bolts, and you use an Allen wrench on them.

 

Sorry, allen headed bolts.
Happy?

 

At Lowe's, Ace Hardware, Home Depot, and others the products are listed as:

The Hillman Group Socket-Head Stainless Steel Allen-Drive Metric Socket Cap Screws.

Now ain't that a mouth full of product description.

 

 

Guys I'm going to just change out the fuel pressure regulator- ORING ONLY.
It's $1 so I'm going to change that .
I will keep you guys updated.
Might be only oring problem,
Since in winter oring may tighten up. And loose pressure quickly.
Advance auto , and rock auto sell the orings.

 

https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbi...7249&source=48

 

Maybe your Fuel Pump is on it's way out..... or a possible dirty ground on your engine for the water temp sensor....

 

Make sure you use the allen BOLTS recommended because you'll likely need to swap out the FPR sooner or later.

 

The o-ring will shrink and expand and wear out over 16 years, but the vacuum assisted diaphram (moving part) inside the FPR should function as good as new even though it's 16 years old too?

You are going to be doing this job again soon, my friend.

 

Last winter, I picked up a new BWD Intermotor FPR (the one in the picture) from AA online using the TRT30 coupon code for $48.99 + tax. It works great. The store had it waiting for me on the counter when I walked in the door.

Rockauto sells the same FPR for $54.79 + shipping and tax.

 

The has not been repaired yet.
Since its warm out and summertime. The car does not loose fuel pressure. And it seems to be running fine.

I may be doing this job twice- but I can at least spend $1 for the oring now. Instead i would be loooking at $80 from NAPA Autoparts in the future, to replace fpr.

 

Thanks for the promo code -
I I will most likely Get, the part from advance auto then.
NApa. With local pickup was over $80

 

OK. You'll see. My experience has been that with a manual tranny car, since every gear is directly connected to the engine, you tend to feel the tiredness of the FPR more. With auto trannies, the slushiness of the gearbox, except for lockup at the final gear of course, will mask that.

Anyhow, the FPR, when it gets tired, its most noticeable symptom is the hard starts when cold.

 

I Do have an automatic.
I was running my buddy 2 times from a stop light. And he has a Volvo 2005 2.5T turbo,
And he walked away from 2nd gear and 3rd gear he was about. 8 car lengths,
It did feel slower than normal?
Is this why?

 

Edited for safety.

 

Could be. When was the last proper tuneup? Plugs, air filter etc?
Also, keep this in mind:
FPR should be changed....it's old
The fuel filter should be changed every 30k miles.
O2 sensors. Replace the primary ones, the 2 closest to the engine. They get tired and do not throw codes.
Tranny fluid. Use Nissan D-matic or Dexron III . You can drop the old fluid through the bolt in the floorpan and replace with new fluid through the dipstick. Old tranny fluid makes the car lazy to change gears. Is it hard to make your car downshift? If so, your tranny fluid is probably tired.
DO NOT FLUSH. The tranny may not survive the procedure afterwards

If all those are tired/worn out and you replace them, your car will be much more peppy afterwards. As for the volvo comparo, it is a 2.5 turbo verses a 3.0 NA. The tuneup may make the 3.0 more competitive.

 

I have an Auto 98' Maxima SE with the same problem, I think. When i cold start it in the mornings, it will start and rev up to like 3k RPM and then die. I usually have to throttle it right after i start it in order for it to continue running. I think it may be a problem with the starter. My friend had the same problem and changed it and it fixed it.