i failed :( no crank no start-
04-19-2013, 12:15 AM
#1
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i failed :( no crank no start-
sorry mods. if you could del the post from here http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-no-start.html
somehow i accidentally posted in the classified section. oops my bad. it should go here.
anyways going to get it checked out tomorrow. will report back with some results. somewhat skeptical about getting a free single check to determine the problem. should i go to two locations? looked around for a similar solution and i guess some people are skeptical about test bench results vs in the whip.
somehow i accidentally posted in the classified section. oops my bad. it should go here.
let me preface that a few months ago I got a new battery although my old battery was shown to be good "basic battery test", but no further inspection was done. Anyways one day I left my headlights on and well it drained by battery. I had to get a jump. I got a new battery from costco Jan 2013. This battery has not been checked although when I have had my no crank no start issue the lights did not dim on my dash, interior and or exterior. I believe that the battery is good however without diagnostics i guess my guess is no better than a hunch.
For the last few weeks and probably even longer (2-6 months) I usually have to give my car 2 turns of the key to get the car going. Usually I turn the key over and I hear nothing and then the 2nd time the car starts. Sometimes it requires 3 times, but that is very rare.
Last night my car took 10 to 15 turns of the key to start. Talked to my mechanic and told him the issue. He believes it is the starter (has not been replaced) or the spark plugs. The spark plugs were replaced at 30 and 90k; my current milage is 175; so Close, but possibly not needed.
He basically told me that although I bought a new battery it is unknown if the battery is good as it may not be giving enough voltage vs the starter being bad mechanically.
given this information what could be the problem and what simple test can be done (if any without a volt meter) ect
can i go to nappa auto/major autoparts store and have them test my Solenoid or do i got to go down to my guy and get things tested before I end up buying parts
1998 nissan maxima se
175k
starter-never replaced
spark plugs-replaced 30 and 90k
edit: sometimes when engine does seem to start, but after a second or two it will stop. i either step on the peddle a little and things seem ok. I have had to force this a few times, but less than the no crank no start. all i hear is a click and silence.
edit; going to get it checked at autozone for either dropped volt for the battery, bad solenoid or to hopefully determine if its the starter
edit
ops posted in the wrong section. my bad
For the last few weeks and probably even longer (2-6 months) I usually have to give my car 2 turns of the key to get the car going. Usually I turn the key over and I hear nothing and then the 2nd time the car starts. Sometimes it requires 3 times, but that is very rare.
Last night my car took 10 to 15 turns of the key to start. Talked to my mechanic and told him the issue. He believes it is the starter (has not been replaced) or the spark plugs. The spark plugs were replaced at 30 and 90k; my current milage is 175; so Close, but possibly not needed.
He basically told me that although I bought a new battery it is unknown if the battery is good as it may not be giving enough voltage vs the starter being bad mechanically.
given this information what could be the problem and what simple test can be done (if any without a volt meter) ect
can i go to nappa auto/major autoparts store and have them test my Solenoid or do i got to go down to my guy and get things tested before I end up buying parts
1998 nissan maxima se
175k
starter-never replaced
spark plugs-replaced 30 and 90k
edit: sometimes when engine does seem to start, but after a second or two it will stop. i either step on the peddle a little and things seem ok. I have had to force this a few times, but less than the no crank no start. all i hear is a click and silence.
edit; going to get it checked at autozone for either dropped volt for the battery, bad solenoid or to hopefully determine if its the starter
edit
ops posted in the wrong section. my bad
04-19-2013, 09:34 AM
#2
When you have to turn the key several times, is it a no crank, or a crank and no start?
If no crank, keep the key in the start position and jiggle it around, does it start then? If so, it's an ignition switch issue.
If you just hear a click and the nothing, I'd be looking at loose battery terminals, loose power wire to the starter, or possibly a faulty solenoid (which is replaced as an assembly with the starter).
'Bad' spark plugs will not cause a no crank, and they will not really cause an intermittent crank no start. Generally if your plugs are completely fouled or worn out, then you'll have consistent no-start, or a start, but poor power.
Your start/stall is likely a different issue, I'd be looking at IACV issues for that.
If no crank, keep the key in the start position and jiggle it around, does it start then? If so, it's an ignition switch issue.
If you just hear a click and the nothing, I'd be looking at loose battery terminals, loose power wire to the starter, or possibly a faulty solenoid (which is replaced as an assembly with the starter).
'Bad' spark plugs will not cause a no crank, and they will not really cause an intermittent crank no start. Generally if your plugs are completely fouled or worn out, then you'll have consistent no-start, or a start, but poor power.
Your start/stall is likely a different issue, I'd be looking at IACV issues for that.
04-19-2013, 02:57 PM
#5
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 11
When you have to turn the key several times, is it a no crank, or a crank and no start?
If no crank, keep the key in the start position and jiggle it around, does it start then? If so, it's an ignition switch issue.
If you just hear a click and the nothing, I'd be looking at loose battery terminals, loose power wire to the starter, or possibly a faulty solenoid (which is replaced as an assembly with the starter).
'Bad' spark plugs will not cause a no crank, and they will not really cause an intermittent crank no start. Generally if your plugs are completely fouled or worn out, then you'll have consistent no-start, or a start, but poor power.
Your start/stall is likely a different issue, I'd be looking at IACV issues for that.
If no crank, keep the key in the start position and jiggle it around, does it start then? If so, it's an ignition switch issue.
If you just hear a click and the nothing, I'd be looking at loose battery terminals, loose power wire to the starter, or possibly a faulty solenoid (which is replaced as an assembly with the starter).
'Bad' spark plugs will not cause a no crank, and they will not really cause an intermittent crank no start. Generally if your plugs are completely fouled or worn out, then you'll have consistent no-start, or a start, but poor power.
Your start/stall is likely a different issue, I'd be looking at IACV issues for that.
battery terminals are solid. properly capped and very tight with those cap extender things. ill be definitely checking the plugs. I don;t know if hearing the "click" is my solenoid going off. mechanic is down to inspect the problem for free.
again thanks for the quick replys! you guys rock. spent some time lurking first time poster
04-21-2013, 12:18 AM
#8
When you have to turn the key several times, is it a no crank, or a crank and no start?
If no crank, keep the key in the start position and jiggle it around, does it start then? If so, it's an ignition switch issue.
If you just hear a click and the nothing, I'd be looking at loose battery terminals, loose power wire to the starter, or possibly a faulty solenoid (which is replaced as an assembly with the starter).
'Bad' spark plugs will not cause a no crank, and they will not really cause an intermittent crank no start. Generally if your plugs are completely fouled or worn out, then you'll have consistent no-start, or a start, but poor power.
Your start/stall is likely a different issue, I'd be looking at IACV issues for that.
If no crank, keep the key in the start position and jiggle it around, does it start then? If so, it's an ignition switch issue.
If you just hear a click and the nothing, I'd be looking at loose battery terminals, loose power wire to the starter, or possibly a faulty solenoid (which is replaced as an assembly with the starter).
'Bad' spark plugs will not cause a no crank, and they will not really cause an intermittent crank no start. Generally if your plugs are completely fouled or worn out, then you'll have consistent no-start, or a start, but poor power.
Your start/stall is likely a different issue, I'd be looking at IACV issues for that.
05-01-2013, 04:14 PM
#9
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 11
When you have to turn the key several times, is it a no crank, or a crank and no start?
If no crank, keep the key in the start position and jiggle it around, does it start then? If so, it's an ignition switch issue.
If you just hear a click and the nothing, I'd be looking at loose battery terminals, loose power wire to the starter, or possibly a faulty solenoid (which is replaced as an assembly with the starter).
'Bad' spark plugs will not cause a no crank, and they will not really cause an intermittent crank no start. Generally if your plugs are completely fouled or worn out, then you'll have consistent no-start, or a start, but poor power.
Your start/stall is likely a different issue, I'd be looking at IACV issues for that.
If no crank, keep the key in the start position and jiggle it around, does it start then? If so, it's an ignition switch issue.
If you just hear a click and the nothing, I'd be looking at loose battery terminals, loose power wire to the starter, or possibly a faulty solenoid (which is replaced as an assembly with the starter).
'Bad' spark plugs will not cause a no crank, and they will not really cause an intermittent crank no start. Generally if your plugs are completely fouled or worn out, then you'll have consistent no-start, or a start, but poor power.
Your start/stall is likely a different issue, I'd be looking at IACV issues for that.
anyways thanks for the wise words of troubleshooting the idiot
_
05-02-2013, 02:39 PM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Oakland, CA
Posts: 704
since i made this post i havnt had time to see my mechanic. i was planning on stopping by, but other things have come up. yesterday i had the issue come up again and decided to wiggle/jiggle the keys and it started on the second try. i am more suspect that it is the starter switch, but i will run diagnostic and know for sure.
anyways thanks for the wise words of troubleshooting the idiot_
anyways thanks for the wise words of troubleshooting the idiot
_http://s397.photobucket.com/albums/p...Ignition-1.jpg. But after a while I found that the tape would slip out of place, so I graduated to SlopFix 2.0. I cut a little piece out of a coke can and crazy glued it to the inside of the long edge of the slot. Someone else duck taped the **** out of it. You just need something to fill in that gap.
You can test by pulling the ignition switch out of the column and using a screwdriver in the slot to start it. If it works every time, you probably have slop. Just don't leave your car outside with the switch hanging loose, you might as well put a Steal Me sign on it...
Last edited by DBear; 05-02-2013 at 02:41 PM.
05-03-2013, 04:13 PM
#11
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thanks; i watched a video on how to remove ignition switch. feeling mighty confident. like the detailed ad hoc provided. btw noticed your from oakland. like in the south bay (eastside) cars tend to magically walk away. friend who works for the school district tells me all the time how whips just go *poof* stripped and found a few days later.
like in the south bay (eastside) cars tend to magically walk away. friend who works for the school district tells me all the time how whips just go *poof* stripped and found a few days later.
05-06-2013, 12:51 PM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Oakland, CA
Posts: 704
thanks; i watched a video on how to remove ignition switch. feeling mighty confident. like the detailed ad hoc provided. btw noticed your from oakland. like in the south bay (eastside) cars tend to magically walk away. friend who works for the school district tells me all the time how whips just go *poof* stripped and found a few days later.
like in the south bay (eastside) cars tend to magically walk away. friend who works for the school district tells me all the time how whips just go *poof* stripped and found a few days later.
06-29-2013, 07:23 PM
#13
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 11
-=update=-
so i didn't do anything since my post; presented the idea of the ignition switch to my dad and he was royally against it. i might be sol as now the car is still no crank no start, but now i don't hear a "click" noise. i turn the key and i believe i can hear a slight moan/wushing sound that last a second or two at most, but its very faint. tried to force it a few times now and the wushing sound has shortened and is even harder to hear/inaudible if you arnt looking for it. the beeping of the seat belt over powers what i can hear. i plan to do something immediately. what is the problem?! should i still check the ignition switch or since now i don't hear the click it must be...the starter?; if that is the case i would still need to take it out to test the starter/solenoid.
so i didn't do anything since my post; presented the idea of the ignition switch to my dad and he was royally against it. i might be sol as now the car is still no crank no start, but now i don't hear a "click" noise. i turn the key and i believe i can hear a slight moan/wushing sound that last a second or two at most, but its very faint. tried to force it a few times now and the wushing sound has shortened and is even harder to hear/inaudible if you arnt looking for it. the beeping of the seat belt over powers what i can hear. i plan to do something immediately. what is the problem?! should i still check the ignition switch or since now i don't hear the click it must be...the starter?; if that is the case i would still need to take it out to test the starter/solenoid.
Last edited by snitzle_iii; 06-29-2013 at 09:14 PM.
06-29-2013, 09:33 PM
#14
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Posts: 6
I had this same problem recently on my 96 SE. Very intermittently, turn the key and nothing. Turn the key again and it cranks right up. Seemed odd, but no pressing issue. Later it got worse where I would have to turn it 3-4 times before cranking. Eventually it got bad enough that I came here to ask the collective brain of maxima.org.
The consensus here seemed to be a bad ignition switch, so I picked up a key switch at Advance Auto for $30-some bucks. I was planning to install it when I noticed that it could possibly be the neutral switch. Sure enough, every time it wouldn't crank I could bump the gear shifter forward (auto trans) and it would fire right up.
Bottom line, if nothing happens on key turn, wiggle the shifter or just drop it into neutral.
My problem seemed to clear up so I haven't replaced the switch yet since a bump on the shifter always works.
Good luck.
The consensus here seemed to be a bad ignition switch, so I picked up a key switch at Advance Auto for $30-some bucks. I was planning to install it when I noticed that it could possibly be the neutral switch. Sure enough, every time it wouldn't crank I could bump the gear shifter forward (auto trans) and it would fire right up.
Bottom line, if nothing happens on key turn, wiggle the shifter or just drop it into neutral.
My problem seemed to clear up so I haven't replaced the switch yet since a bump on the shifter always works.
Good luck.
06-29-2013, 09:58 PM
#15
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well i put it in neutral and no difference. i guess i hear the key terminal click, but i don't hear a click from the engine bay/starter?. i did notice that when i turn the key in the neutral pos that i hear a light hissing sound more often/all the time vs turning they key in Park and have the engine bay be silent like in this video
. is that noise of the the solenoid spinning?
my car was doing this
now i turn it and silence
there has been times when i thinking my car is starting/turning, but then dies out. on the 2nd or 3rd time ill gas it a little and want to say force it to keep the engine started; i hear
go then i have to gas the car or it will die out
my car was doing this
now i turn it and silence
there has been times when i thinking my car is starting/turning, but then dies out. on the 2nd or 3rd time ill gas it a little and want to say force it to keep the engine started; i hear
Last edited by snitzle_iii; 06-30-2013 at 01:42 PM.
07-13-2013, 08:40 PM
#17
Here is a troubleshooting guide from the 5th gens forum. The starting systems of the 4th and 5th gens are almost identical.
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...rt-thread.html
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...rt-thread.html
07-13-2013, 10:17 PM
#19
You're going to hate yourself for not swapping out the ignition switch earlier. I'm willing o bet that's the problem and veterans like phmor have already pointed you on the right direction.
C'mon bud it's not hard. And spark plugs take all of 20 minutes to do
C'mon bud it's not hard. And spark plugs take all of 20 minutes to do
07-14-2013, 11:30 PM
#21
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does the current situation turn the key and no "click" sound determine that its the ignition switch? im not trying to argue. as said before i should check it out as its only a 10min job. lastly what is that wine/twirling noise i hear after i turn the key?
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