dezmond

96 Maxima SE Auto. 210K miles.

I'm getting ready to put my 4th set of front wheel bearings on my car. This is getting old! Am I doing something wrong or is this an inherent problem with the 4th gen? I'll admit, my front struts are original (although they are getting replaced this time while everything is disassembled) Could bad struts lead to premature bearing failure?

I have always replaced the bearings myself. I bought a tool kit years ago (I think it's called a hub doctor) where I can press out the bearings on the vehicle.

A friend mentioned that I may need to re-torque the axle nut some time after the bearing replacement. Is that necessary?

All of this seems odd to me. Can anyone offer an explanation?

Thx!

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

13 years & 200,000 miles on original bearings.

neosmatrix

iTrader: (2)

Best of luck, I am on my third time on drivers side never do pass side and all is well there first time I had a shop press out the old ds and press in the new one replaced struts (quick struts) and control arms, ball joints, tie rod ends and ball joints. Had newer tires put on and a shop alignment.

Maybe 1 year goes by or so and the dreaded noise again this time I bought a knuckle with bearing from a Nissan junk yard here in mo, that has lasted maybe 6 months or a year and now the dreaded noise.

This sucks getting tired of paying for alignments.

The first pressed in bearing was a lifetime warranty.

risingmist

iTrader: (5)

I was having the same constant issue and it seems as if i finally solved it. When i took my bearings to get pressed in, the shop use to press them in incorrectly. When pressing them into the knuckle you have to put the pressure on the outside on the bearing. When putting on the Hub, you have to put the pressure on the inside rim of the bearing.
if not, the bearing will get damages and fail prematurely.
this solved my issue, hopefully it solves yours.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Good info risingist!

96sleepergle

iTrader: (6)

I had the same problem you need to change the hub be cause the old hub has shunk warped from the heat on the end where the bearing is pressed on one i replaced the hub with the new bearing problem solved been over 12 months since it happened

dsonnylal

iTrader: (3)

Can someone describe the noise? I'm getting ready to do the left front wheel bearing as well and would like to confirm if its the same annoying noise I am hearing.

Thx

neosmatrix

iTrader: (2)

Trying to upload a video now from my darkside phone.
S

neosmatrix

iTrader: (2)

This is the passenger side.. I think pretty quite?

neosmatrix

iTrader: (2)

This is the DS knuckle/hub I got from the JY.
I dont know if I am going to replace the bearing/seals?

I dont know if they should spin more free than this?
S

neosmatrix

iTrader: (2)

This is the drivers side as it sits now.

There is some play/noise when at 12 and 6 a clicking noise.
S

Max_Gator

IMO two things.

One, use quality parts. To me that means oem or timken which you can get at autozone. Even then, you may have problems. I got a bad timken hub.

If you have a ton of mileage, you simply need to do bearing and hub.

If you are paying someone else to do remove/install hub bearing, please use good parts. You don't want to pay to do it again.

Two, make sure whoever is pressing them knows wtf they are doing.

You really can't expect much life out of cheap bearings.

Given the bearing issues on maximas, a jy is a crap shoot. But, if you are only paying $30-40 for the entire knuckle and hub, doing the work yourself, that's the way to go.

I do almost all of my own work, and I can tell you I am getting sick and tired of bad parts.

I always try to get the best aftermarket besides oem. Yet, I've had to return axles, hub/bearing, starter, lcas to Napa/autozone. And I almost always get the best version of the part.

dezmond

On the previous 3 sets of bearings, I didn't scrimp on parts. I know I have used Timkin. I think I also used Federal Mogul. For all of the work involved, I wouldn't knowingly use cheap parts.

I'll admit I have been somewhat confused about bearing grease. I know I should never mix natural and synthetic grease. The bearings come pre-greased, but do I need to add any more?

If the hub and/or knuckle is the problem, how is that resolved? I can only imagine I would have to replace with salvage parts, since I'm not aware of anyone selling new/reconditioned. That seems like taking a big chance, effectively putting unknown parts on the vehicle.

The tool kit I have been using is the Hub Tamer, not Hub Doctor. The repair quote I got when my factory bearings originally went bad was like $650 USD. I bought the kit for around $300, I think, and it has paid for itself many times over. All you need is a decent impact wrench and the bearings are removed pretty easily.

Thanks to all for the tips and advice.

Dezmond

neosmatrix

iTrader: (2)

Ok, when it rains it pours!!!

I got the knuckle/hub swapped (JY) on Drivers Side. Wound up having to replace the outer tie rod end (tore the boot when using the pickle fork) decided to replace the brake pads (They were worn, but not gone).

Then I saw that my inner tie rod boot was torn on DS.

when I got to the PS (passenger side) I saw that my CV boot (Outer) was torn!!!
Ending this post on a postivie note!!

I was able to get the alignment right even with all my noodling around.
S