My crank but no start saga
#1
My crank but no start saga
Car runs PERFECT once started. Never ever ever dies, stumbles, hesitates, stalls, or anything at ALL.
Just is a biotch to start. When its been sitting, it starts a lot easier it seems. Im not 100% certain but as far as I can remember, when its been running for a while..it pretty much starts after a few cranks, on the the second or third try(key-turn)
After that Im golden.
So far:
new fuel filter
new plugs
new air filter
new ignition switch
added ground to tranny, on tranny bolt right by crank sensor.
cleaned ground on crank position sensor bolt
cleaned both crank position sensors
clean camshaft position sensor
checked every wire known to man
Repaired a broken wire to alternator harness.
checked alternator
checked battery
new starter(I am returning this since it didnt do jack)
since it starts a lot better when WARM, I ordered a coolant temperature sensor. It should be here any day. Only $10 so I figured it would be worth a try.
Next I think I am going to take off the crank an cam sensors and test them all. Not that I trust the readongs anyways. I could say fine and it still be bad. Or vice versa.
I guess I am at the mercy of buying them, installing them, and returning them as I eliminate them as a possibility.
Just is a biotch to start. When its been sitting, it starts a lot easier it seems. Im not 100% certain but as far as I can remember, when its been running for a while..it pretty much starts after a few cranks, on the the second or third try(key-turn)
After that Im golden.
So far:
new fuel filter
new plugs
new air filter
new ignition switch
added ground to tranny, on tranny bolt right by crank sensor.
cleaned ground on crank position sensor bolt
cleaned both crank position sensors
clean camshaft position sensor
checked every wire known to man
Repaired a broken wire to alternator harness.
checked alternator
checked battery
new starter(I am returning this since it didnt do jack)
since it starts a lot better when WARM, I ordered a coolant temperature sensor. It should be here any day. Only $10 so I figured it would be worth a try.
Next I think I am going to take off the crank an cam sensors and test them all. Not that I trust the readongs anyways. I could say fine and it still be bad. Or vice versa.
I guess I am at the mercy of buying them, installing them, and returning them as I eliminate them as a possibility.
#2
Oh and for what its worth, the timing had jumped on it because the water pump went out and dumped water into the oil, which foamed etc.
anyways so I bought it like that and flushing the oil, water etc
installed a new water pump
new timing chain
new timing chain tensioner
new gaskets
timing set 100% perfect on the mark.
I used the extension in the socket method on #1 cylinder. Once it rose and stopped rising. I set the timing mark on the crank gear to the colored link on the new timine chain. The marks on the cam gears lined up perfectly to the two colored links up top as well.
Is it possible that maybe I made a mistake and set it to TDC on the wrong stroke and its 180 degrees off? Would it run PERFECT once started if it was 180 degrees off? I dont think so lol but you never know?
Or is it more likely that the whole time it was one of the cam or crank sensor(s)?
anyways so I bought it like that and flushing the oil, water etc
installed a new water pump
new timing chain
new timing chain tensioner
new gaskets
timing set 100% perfect on the mark.
I used the extension in the socket method on #1 cylinder. Once it rose and stopped rising. I set the timing mark on the crank gear to the colored link on the new timine chain. The marks on the cam gears lined up perfectly to the two colored links up top as well.
Is it possible that maybe I made a mistake and set it to TDC on the wrong stroke and its 180 degrees off? Would it run PERFECT once started if it was 180 degrees off? I dont think so lol but you never know?
Or is it more likely that the whole time it was one of the cam or crank sensor(s)?
Last edited by stone4779; 05-03-2013 at 04:54 PM.
#4
Try the ECT sensor first. Sounds like that may be the reason it starts warm. If not do compression test dry and if readings are low do them wet. May have fried rings if it overheated at some point and you have decent compression when warm. If thats the case the motor is toast. Is car automatic or stick? Has the motor or trans ever been out? If so the mating surfaces may need to be cleaned. Since IAC code is coming up remove it and clean it real good and dont forget to replace the metal gasket.
#5
Car runs PERFECT once started. Never ever ever dies, stumbles, hesitates, stalls, or anything at ALL.
Just is a biotch to start. When its been sitting, it starts a lot easier it seems. Im not 100% certain but as far as I can remember, when its been running for a while..it pretty much starts after a few cranks, on the the second or third try(key-turn)
After that Im golden.
So far:
new fuel filter
new plugs
new air filter
new ignition switch
added ground to tranny, on tranny bolt right by crank sensor.
cleaned ground on crank position sensor bolt
cleaned both crank position sensors
clean camshaft position sensor
checked every wire known to man
Repaired a broken wire to alternator harness.
checked alternator
checked battery
new starter(I am returning this since it didnt do jack)
since it starts a lot better when WARM, I ordered a coolant temperature sensor. It should be here any day. Only $10 so I figured it would be worth a try.
Next I think I am going to take off the crank an cam sensors and test them all. Not that I trust the readongs anyways. I could say fine and it still be bad. Or vice versa.
I guess I am at the mercy of buying them, installing them, and returning them as I eliminate them as a possibility.
Just is a biotch to start. When its been sitting, it starts a lot easier it seems. Im not 100% certain but as far as I can remember, when its been running for a while..it pretty much starts after a few cranks, on the the second or third try(key-turn)
After that Im golden.
So far:
new fuel filter
new plugs
new air filter
new ignition switch
added ground to tranny, on tranny bolt right by crank sensor.
cleaned ground on crank position sensor bolt
cleaned both crank position sensors
clean camshaft position sensor
checked every wire known to man
Repaired a broken wire to alternator harness.
checked alternator
checked battery
new starter(I am returning this since it didnt do jack)
since it starts a lot better when WARM, I ordered a coolant temperature sensor. It should be here any day. Only $10 so I figured it would be worth a try.
Next I think I am going to take off the crank an cam sensors and test them all. Not that I trust the readongs anyways. I could say fine and it still be bad. Or vice versa.
I guess I am at the mercy of buying them, installing them, and returning them as I eliminate them as a possibility.
out of everything you said this is the one thing that stands out to me......I believe you have the ground thing wrong. You're not supposed to be grounding the transmission you are supposed to ground the 17mm STARTER bolt(closest to the firewall think its 17mm). Try that and report back before you go any further........is this car an auto or 5 spd?
#6
Try the ECT sensor first. Sounds like that may be the reason it starts warm. If not do compression test dry and if readings are low do them wet. May have fried rings if it overheated at some point and you have decent compression when warm. If thats the case the motor is toast. Is car automatic or stick? Has the motor or trans ever been out? If so the mating surfaces may need to be cleaned. Since IAC code is coming up remove it and clean it real good and dont forget to replace the metal gasket.
just cranked and cranked and cranked. Seems like it fires here and ther efor a fraction of a second ONCE in a while but mostly sounds to me like no spark. I smell fuel.
Already took the IAC apart, everything was clean
#7
out of everything you said this is the one thing that stands out to me......I believe you have the ground thing wrong. You're not supposed to be grounding the transmission you are supposed to ground the 17mm STARTER bolt(closest to the firewall think its 17mm). Try that and report back before you go any further........is this car an auto or 5 spd?
cars an automatic
#8
Im so hating this car right now
I remember I was going places, I went out to a bar and chilled for hours..until 2am closing. Went out, it started after a little struggle but eventually it started.
I used to go run errands and stuff. Now its just getting worse and worse it feels like. Now to the point to where it wouldnt even start(but does crank) at all. Darn.
I remember I was going places, I went out to a bar and chilled for hours..until 2am closing. Went out, it started after a little struggle but eventually it started.
I used to go run errands and stuff. Now its just getting worse and worse it feels like. Now to the point to where it wouldnt even start(but does crank) at all. Darn.
Last edited by stone4779; 05-04-2013 at 12:23 AM.
#10
Plugs are black
Compression with almost dead battery was 165 on all six cylinders
New plugs and ECTS tomorrow.
Well at least the motor has compression
Pleeease just start!
Compression with almost dead battery was 165 on all six cylinders
New plugs and ECTS tomorrow.
Well at least the motor has compression
Pleeease just start!
Last edited by stone4779; 05-06-2013 at 11:52 PM.
#12
has NG V-Power Copper plugs. I just put them in about 500 miles ago or even less possibly.
maybe 300
All were all black except for cylinder #2, which was still black, but not entirely. you can still see some white on the center electrode
Cylinder #4 has some oil on the threads, It would still start. The actual electrode etc were dry though. #4 was quite as blac as the other 5.
maybe 300
All were all black except for cylinder #2, which was still black, but not entirely. you can still see some white on the center electrode
Cylinder #4 has some oil on the threads, It would still start. The actual electrode etc were dry though. #4 was quite as blac as the other 5.
Last edited by stone4779; 05-06-2013 at 10:30 PM.
#13
The plugs say that it is really rich:
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pOAwN1wb5M..._condition.jpg
Mine all look like the last one in the middle column. Black sooty deposits, all uniform in color and dispersion.
I really cant wait to charge the battery and pop that ECTS in, and see if it works.
Im also going to redo the compression check but put the pedal WOT and with a fully charged battery. It was pretty much dead. I only did a couple revolutions per cylinder. I was kindof half expecting to see one 30 psi or something
If that doesnt work, I will come back to the coils. If that doesnt work I guess ill begin the "buy and return parts" journey and get the crank and cam sensors tomorrow.
If all that works, Im going to look into the possibility that the timing is 180 degree off? Im pretty sure the extension i stuck int he spark plug hole was at the peak of its lift, and that every single timing mark was lined up exactly with each of their respective colored links. The timing chain could not have been any tighter either lol. Could barely get the dang tensioner on the even with the little pin in there it is tight.
So Im pretty sure the timing is right. It runs so dang perfect once its going
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pOAwN1wb5M..._condition.jpg
Mine all look like the last one in the middle column. Black sooty deposits, all uniform in color and dispersion.
I really cant wait to charge the battery and pop that ECTS in, and see if it works.
Im also going to redo the compression check but put the pedal WOT and with a fully charged battery. It was pretty much dead. I only did a couple revolutions per cylinder. I was kindof half expecting to see one 30 psi or something
If that doesnt work, I will come back to the coils. If that doesnt work I guess ill begin the "buy and return parts" journey and get the crank and cam sensors tomorrow.
If all that works, Im going to look into the possibility that the timing is 180 degree off? Im pretty sure the extension i stuck int he spark plug hole was at the peak of its lift, and that every single timing mark was lined up exactly with each of their respective colored links. The timing chain could not have been any tighter either lol. Could barely get the dang tensioner on the even with the little pin in there it is tight.
So Im pretty sure the timing is right. It runs so dang perfect once its going
Last edited by stone4779; 05-06-2013 at 10:42 PM.
#14
OK so I couldnt wait to check the compression again and I went over there with a drop light.
165 on all cylinders without even touching the throttle. Exactly on each. Not a lot of cranks either.
I ended up killing the battery after checking each cylinder only once.
the wierd thing is, I swapped the battery over to my GTO, and it cranked my big cammed out V8 and it started right up with very very little effort. So i guess all this cranking has killed the dang starter.
So now tomorrow I will be
1. charging the battery and replacing black sooty plugs
2. removing the brand new starter and having it checked and replaced if its bad.
3. install the ECTS as well.
165 on all cylinders without even touching the throttle. Exactly on each. Not a lot of cranks either.
I ended up killing the battery after checking each cylinder only once.
the wierd thing is, I swapped the battery over to my GTO, and it cranked my big cammed out V8 and it started right up with very very little effort. So i guess all this cranking has killed the dang starter.
So now tomorrow I will be
1. charging the battery and replacing black sooty plugs
2. removing the brand new starter and having it checked and replaced if its bad.
3. install the ECTS as well.
Last edited by stone4779; 05-07-2013 at 12:06 AM.
#16
#18
I have the ECTS in hand though
#19
out of everything you said this is the one thing that stands out to me......I believe you have the ground thing wrong. You're not supposed to be grounding the transmission you are supposed to ground the 17mm STARTER bolt(closest to the firewall think its 17mm). Try that and report back before you go any further........is this car an auto or 5 spd?
I'm trying to recall how I grounded my manual. I believe it is:
1. neg battery terminal to trans front bolt.
2. trans front bolt to starter front bolt.
3. and I think neg terminal to engine (where striped ground strap attaches).
You might want to try taking off the additional ground to see what happens or looking around here and grounding properly.
#20
While you're at it remove starter and clean mating surfaces on trans and starter. Clean grounds on UIM....two 10mm bolts. Get heaviest gauge wire and fun grounds to engine, trans, starter.....try to connect them all together and attach to neg battery cable or post. Check grounds at horns also under battery tray.....remove battery and tray....the ground wire attaches there too. Change ECTS and keep battery charged. Check key switch too.
#21
While you're at it remove starter and clean mating surfaces on trans and starter. Clean grounds on UIM....two 10mm bolts. Get heaviest gauge wire and fun grounds to engine, trans, starter.....try to connect them all together and attach to neg battery cable or post. Check grounds at horns also under battery tray.....remove battery and tray....the ground wire attaches there too. Change ECTS and keep battery charged. Check key switch too.
mating surfaces cleaned already
ill check the other grounds mentioned when i go back out there. still need to go pull the starter and get it swapped under warranty
#23
OK FINALLY it starts right up!
I swapped the starter, replaced the ECTS(the one for the ECU, not the one for the gauges)
Installed another ground wire straight to the top/smaller starter bolt.
I also moved the crank reference sensor a little bit, it looked a little off.
recharged the battery(which oddly showed 71%...the battery wasnt dead..the starter was just that farked)
So i dont now which is was, but my guess is that the starter was just crap and that sensor wasnt quite close enough to read. Between the two it was doomed for failure.
I swapped the starter, replaced the ECTS(the one for the ECU, not the one for the gauges)
Installed another ground wire straight to the top/smaller starter bolt.
I also moved the crank reference sensor a little bit, it looked a little off.
recharged the battery(which oddly showed 71%...the battery wasnt dead..the starter was just that farked)
So i dont now which is was, but my guess is that the starter was just crap and that sensor wasnt quite close enough to read. Between the two it was doomed for failure.
#24
I think i will let the ECU have like half a tank then I will start logging my MPG and see if I get an increase.
I was getting 300-340 miles on a tank. Depending on the amount of HWY usage
I am so glad to be driving this and not my GTO. I hate putting 100 miles a day on that thing.
I was getting 300-340 miles on a tank. Depending on the amount of HWY usage
I am so glad to be driving this and not my GTO. I hate putting 100 miles a day on that thing.
#25
#26
recheck the plugs after a few hundred miles to rule out any excessive fuel burn.
your timing was good, since you were on the intake stroke (going up), not exhaust (going down). there are two tdcs though
you were on the right one.
i thought compression was tested with throttle wide open? could help your numbers.
keep us posted.
your timing was good, since you were on the intake stroke (going up), not exhaust (going down). there are two tdcs though
![Smilie](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
i thought compression was tested with throttle wide open? could help your numbers.
keep us posted.
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