Maxima A32; need Gearbox
05-29-2013 | 10:34 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 13
From: Malaysia
Maxima A32; need Gearbox
I need new automatic transmission for my Nissan Cifero A32 engine 2.0L V6 make Sept 1998.
Please can you guys advise what other year/model transmission fits this car..I was told can save cost installing AT from accident/half cut cars; and that other years may fit also to reduce search time...please advise....
If u were interested 2 diagnose; the car does not move at D; must select 2 then after it moves I shifts to D...also it s hard 2 climb hill road. When taking long trip engine no more connect to transmission and goes off when I shift to D or R or any gear....
Please help...
Any advice will help...Many thanks
Please can you guys advise what other year/model transmission fits this car..I was told can save cost installing AT from accident/half cut cars; and that other years may fit also to reduce search time...please advise....
If u were interested 2 diagnose; the car does not move at D; must select 2 then after it moves I shifts to D...also it s hard 2 climb hill road. When taking long trip engine no more connect to transmission and goes off when I shift to D or R or any gear....
Please help...
Any advice will help...Many thanks
05-30-2013 | 04:34 AM
#2
Sounds like first gear is gone, which is probably related to the doesn't want to climb a hill problem. Oil and filter were probably never changed. Then someone changed it and the shards of metal weren't there to provide enough for the gears to grab anymore.
You don't have your location listed in your profile, but since it's a Cefiro, I'm guessing not in the U.S. Lol. It uses Nissan's crappy 4 speed transmission. It's used in the Maxima, A32, I30, I35 and A33. It's also possibly used in the Bluebird, Pulsar, Sunny, Sentra, and Almera, just depends on where you live. It may be used in other vehicles, but I'm not sure. Post your location on your profile, and post a WTB in the classifieds. Junk yards are a great place to get them as well. The less miles/kms, the better. Good luck.
Posted from Maxima.org App for Android
You don't have your location listed in your profile, but since it's a Cefiro, I'm guessing not in the U.S. Lol. It uses Nissan's crappy 4 speed transmission. It's used in the Maxima, A32, I30, I35 and A33. It's also possibly used in the Bluebird, Pulsar, Sunny, Sentra, and Almera, just depends on where you live. It may be used in other vehicles, but I'm not sure. Post your location on your profile, and post a WTB in the classifieds. Junk yards are a great place to get them as well. The less miles/kms, the better. Good luck.
Posted from Maxima.org App for Android
05-31-2013 | 02:29 AM
#5
Thread Starter
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 13
From: Malaysia
Sounds like first gear is gone, which is probably related to the doesn't want to climb a hill problem. Oil and filter were probably never changed. Then someone changed it and the shards of metal weren't there to provide enough for the gears to grab anymore.
You don't have your location listed in your profile, but since it's a Cefiro, I'm guessing not in the U.S. Lol. It uses Nissan's crappy 4 speed transmission. It's used in the Maxima, A32, I30, I35 and A33. It's also possibly used in the Bluebird, Pulsar, Sunny, Sentra, and Almera, just depends on where you live. It may be used in other vehicles, but I'm not sure. Post your location on your profile, and post a WTB in the classifieds. Junk yards are a great place to get them as well. The less miles/kms, the better. Good luck.
Posted from Maxima.org App for Android
You don't have your location listed in your profile, but since it's a Cefiro, I'm guessing not in the U.S. Lol. It uses Nissan's crappy 4 speed transmission. It's used in the Maxima, A32, I30, I35 and A33. It's also possibly used in the Bluebird, Pulsar, Sunny, Sentra, and Almera, just depends on where you live. It may be used in other vehicles, but I'm not sure. Post your location on your profile, and post a WTB in the classifieds. Junk yards are a great place to get them as well. The less miles/kms, the better. Good luck.
Posted from Maxima.org App for Android
externally it looks OK, but how to assess the condition within a week?...Maybe you can give some advice because I bought it anyhow
..
Last edited by goldenshuttle; 05-31-2013 at 02:31 AM.
05-31-2013 | 11:43 AM
#7
Well, since you already bought it, you're probably stuck with it anyways. There really isnt any way to check it without it being in the car and driving it. What you can do is check the condition of the torque converter and the rest of what you can see without ripping the thing apart. Check for burnt fluid on the TC and sides of the transmission wall. If there is any transmission fluid left in it that they couldn't get out or something, you can check what color it is. The reder the better. That will tell you if it was taken care of or not. And really, just hope you bought a good transmission. Lol.
Posted from Maxima.org App for Android
Posted from Maxima.org App for Android
05-31-2013 | 11:48 AM
#8
And if you get the transmission in before the week is out, find a big hill and take it up it slowly. Also kind of push it to see if it slips any. Then take it how you would normally drive it and check the shifting. First to Second is what you should really check, because they are notorious for having a hard shift between them.
Posted from Maxima.org App for Android
Posted from Maxima.org App for Android
06-11-2013 | 09:23 AM
#9
Thread Starter
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 13
From: Malaysia
Well, since you already bought it, you're probably stuck with it anyways. There really isnt any way to check it without it being in the car and driving it. What you can do is check the condition of the torque converter and the rest of what you can see without ripping the thing apart. Check for burnt fluid on the TC and sides of the transmission wall. If there is any transmission fluid left in it that they couldn't get out or something, you can check what color it is. The reder the better. That will tell you if it was taken care of or not. And really, just hope you bought a good transmission. Lol.
Posted from Maxima.org App for Android
Posted from Maxima.org App for Android
checked the oil is red on the bought gearbox and no leaks.
- workshop charged me total equals 250 USS for switching the gearbox and filling the newly installed with fresh oil.
- they refused to flush the gearbox before or after installation but did not explain why(mechanic was a Chinese gentleman and English quite shaky)..
- They said that this model needs entire engine 2 be lowered not the gearbox alone ( is this true ?)
- So total cost was 300 part + 250 installation and oil...not bad I guess...
Result:
-pull seems ok when shift from P to D
-shift from P to D doesn't give a click sound like before, its just silent.
-RPM feels high about 1500 RPM all time idle or engaged
- When I start the car, I should wait for OD bulb to go off...but what happens is that OD gives 16 blinks before it goes off....What is 16 blinks means ?
I will take it for a ramp test this week, not much ramps in the city here, so have 2 go suburb.
Fuel economy looks slightly better now.
Any interpretation of the above please ?
Oh I have some irrelevant question: I dropped something under the steering wheel; when I went down to pick it up I saw a small condencer mic dangling between the wires...what is a condencer mic doing under the dashboard ? i bought this car second hand ? is this part of an abandoned burgler alarm on the car ?
06-11-2013 | 01:41 PM
#10
It sounds like the transmission is fine. I'm not sure about the OD though. Maybe the shop didn't connect everything?
And about the whole engine needs to be dropped thing.... No. They ripped you off on that one. I know they're technically different cars, but it's still the same frame. I'm working on my transmission right now, and I didn't drop the engine. Just the transmission came out, besides battery and intake. And I think that's about any car.
And I have no clue what a condenser mic is doing there. It's definitely not stock.
Posted from Maxima.org App for Android
And about the whole engine needs to be dropped thing.... No. They ripped you off on that one. I know they're technically different cars, but it's still the same frame. I'm working on my transmission right now, and I didn't drop the engine. Just the transmission came out, besides battery and intake. And I think that's about any car.
And I have no clue what a condenser mic is doing there. It's definitely not stock.
Posted from Maxima.org App for Android
06-13-2013 | 08:27 AM
#11
Thread Starter
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 13
From: Malaysia
It sounds like the transmission is fine. I'm not sure about the OD though. Maybe the shop didn't connect everything?
And about the whole engine needs to be dropped thing.... No. They ripped you off on that one. I know they're technically different cars, but it's still the same frame. I'm working on my transmission right now, and I didn't drop the engine. Just the transmission came out, besides battery and intake. And I think that's about any car.
And I have no clue what a condenser mic is doing there. It's definitely not stock.
Posted from Maxima.org App for Android
And about the whole engine needs to be dropped thing.... No. They ripped you off on that one. I know they're technically different cars, but it's still the same frame. I'm working on my transmission right now, and I didn't drop the engine. Just the transmission came out, besides battery and intake. And I think that's about any car.
And I have no clue what a condenser mic is doing there. It's definitely not stock.
Posted from Maxima.org App for Android
Many thanks indeed.
Last edited by goldenshuttle; 06-13-2013 at 08:29 AM.
06-13-2013 | 08:42 AM
#12
the O/D off light blinking 16 times signals a fault of some sort with the transmission. I think there's a procedure to read the amount of long and short blinks to decipher the code if you didn't want to / know how to / have access to an OBD code reader.
edit - try this procedure:
edit - try this procedure:
These are instructions I got of google's newsgroup, it for a 90 300zx. Not sure if it will give you any clues to whats going on but it's worth a try.
I'm at home now and am looking at the haynes manual.
__________________________________________________ ________________
95-97
1. Start engine and warm to normal operating temp with O/D off.
2. Turn ignition swith to off postiton wait 5 sec.
3. Turn ignition switch to the ACC position.
4. Put O/D to ON.
5. Move shifter to P, turn ignition on but don't start engine.
6. The OD light should come on for about 2 secs.
a. if light does not come on somthing is wrong with the trans. computer.
b. if light comes on proceed to no 7.
7. Turn ignigton key to off.
8. Turn ignition key to on, don't start engnie.
9. Move shift lever to D, trun ignition to off.
10. Put O/D switch to off position.
11. Turn ignition off.
12. Put O/D to off, turn ignition ON wait 2sec and move shifter to the 2 position.
13. Put O/D to on, move shifter to 1 position.
14. Put O/D to off, depress accelerator all the way to floor and release.
15. The computer is now in output mode and will start displaying the codes.
There’s one long flash that signifies the start of the sequence. Following
should be 10 short flashes. Then it
repeats.
Remember the first long flash indcates the start of the sequence followed by
10.
All 10 flashes the same = No error codes read at this time
1st flash longer than others = Revolution sensor is shorted or disconnected.
2nd flash longer than others = Speed sensor circuit is shorted or disconnected.
3rd flash longer than others = Throttle sensor circuit is shorted or
disconnected.
4th flash longer than others = Shift solenoid “A” circuit is shorted or
disconnected
5th flash longer than others = Shift solenoid “B” circuit is shorted or
disconnected
6th flash longer than others = Overrun clutch solenoid circuit is shorted or
disconnected
7th flash longer than others = Lock-up solenoid circuit is shorted or
disconnected
8th flash longer than others = Fluid temperature sensor is disconnected or A/T
control unit power source
circuit is damaged.
9th flash longer than others = Engine revolution signal circuit is shorted or
disconnected
10th flash longer than others = Line pressure solenoid circuit is shorted or
disconnected
All the same with no long start flash = Battery low, been disconnected, or
control unit has just been
reconnected.
----
I'm at home now and am looking at the haynes manual.
__________________________________________________ ________________
95-97
1. Start engine and warm to normal operating temp with O/D off.
2. Turn ignition swith to off postiton wait 5 sec.
3. Turn ignition switch to the ACC position.
4. Put O/D to ON.
5. Move shifter to P, turn ignition on but don't start engine.
6. The OD light should come on for about 2 secs.
a. if light does not come on somthing is wrong with the trans. computer.
b. if light comes on proceed to no 7.
7. Turn ignigton key to off.
8. Turn ignition key to on, don't start engnie.
9. Move shift lever to D, trun ignition to off.
10. Put O/D switch to off position.
11. Turn ignition off.
12. Put O/D to off, turn ignition ON wait 2sec and move shifter to the 2 position.
13. Put O/D to on, move shifter to 1 position.
14. Put O/D to off, depress accelerator all the way to floor and release.
15. The computer is now in output mode and will start displaying the codes.
There’s one long flash that signifies the start of the sequence. Following
should be 10 short flashes. Then it
repeats.
Remember the first long flash indcates the start of the sequence followed by
10.
All 10 flashes the same = No error codes read at this time
1st flash longer than others = Revolution sensor is shorted or disconnected.
2nd flash longer than others = Speed sensor circuit is shorted or disconnected.
3rd flash longer than others = Throttle sensor circuit is shorted or
disconnected.
4th flash longer than others = Shift solenoid “A” circuit is shorted or
disconnected
5th flash longer than others = Shift solenoid “B” circuit is shorted or
disconnected
6th flash longer than others = Overrun clutch solenoid circuit is shorted or
disconnected
7th flash longer than others = Lock-up solenoid circuit is shorted or
disconnected
8th flash longer than others = Fluid temperature sensor is disconnected or A/T
control unit power source
circuit is damaged.
9th flash longer than others = Engine revolution signal circuit is shorted or
disconnected
10th flash longer than others = Line pressure solenoid circuit is shorted or
disconnected
All the same with no long start flash = Battery low, been disconnected, or
control unit has just been
reconnected.
----
Last edited by Amerikaner83; 06-13-2013 at 08:45 AM.
07-11-2013 | 02:18 AM
#13
Thread Starter
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 13
From: Malaysia
Another problem
Now I noticed this car behavior:
- RPM is too high and fuel consumption now almost double the usual.
- After driving for 30KM or more, car begins to resist the brakes, and engine goes off I brake strongly.
- black smoke comes upon engine start.
I took it to the same guy who installed the gearbox, after discussions, they connected a CANSULT scan computer, but did not seem to know how to use it...
Then they told me that I need to buy these parts and they will replace them to make the car good:
- Idle speed control
- Mass air flow sensor
I understood that these are costly items...
please advise me...? It was a decent car till recently....
do I let the car on ramp towards the valley and forget about it ?
- RPM is too high and fuel consumption now almost double the usual.
- After driving for 30KM or more, car begins to resist the brakes, and engine goes off I brake strongly.
- black smoke comes upon engine start.
I took it to the same guy who installed the gearbox, after discussions, they connected a CANSULT scan computer, but did not seem to know how to use it...
Then they told me that I need to buy these parts and they will replace them to make the car good:
- Idle speed control
- Mass air flow sensor
I understood that these are costly items...
please advise me...? It was a decent car till recently....
do I let the car on ramp towards the valley and forget about it ?
03-07-2015 | 08:55 AM
#14
Thread Starter
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 13
From: Malaysia
the O/D off light blinking 16 times signals a fault of some sort with the transmission. I think there's a procedure to read the amount of long and short blinks to decipher the code if you didn't want to / know how to / have access to an OBD code reader.
edit - try this procedure:
edit - try this procedure:
This Car is in Malaysia...sadly here an expatriate gets ripped in every thing he/she buys, from a small pencil to car repair...as long as you don t have an Asian face, the first thing shop owner does is triple the cost...one only knows he got ripped when he tells neighbors and they start laughing then they say this is common, this is Malaysia trademark...Sadly there is no consumer protection mechanism here. and shop onwers behave like ganagsters and want to fist fight if you go back and say for example you sold me this item at double the market price...of course all tourists complain to authorities but nothing happens..that s why this is a one time tourist country...
Anyhow, lets forget this continous headak and back to the maxima...Now after used gearbox installed, it accelarates weakly, but can reach good speeds on flat street...but it struggles to climb a sloped road...and in hot weather above 35 C it has very weak power...I connected OBD2 to check it, but it shows that OBD is disconnected, although power LED on the OBD2 tool lits, but no data signal passing to the laptop..is there a misconnection in wires between OBD2 harness and the computer ? if yes how to track it ? ...sorry so many questions, but this car is driving me nuts and I am unable to sell it due to these issues..please help..
03-08-2015 | 06:05 AM
#16
Thread Starter
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 13
From: Malaysia
maxima
Many thanks. i m downloading fsm as we speak.
The OBD2 i tried are 2 kinds..one bluetooth only marker super obd2 and one USB marked nissan 14 connects to laptop..both connect well to Torque software..but shows no data received froM car...[IMG]
[/IMG]
The OBD2 i tried are 2 kinds..one bluetooth only marker super obd2 and one USB marked nissan 14 connects to laptop..both connect well to Torque software..but shows no data received froM car...[IMG]
[/IMG]
03-08-2015 | 08:33 AM
#17
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 3,041
From: Central AR
I think saw where we have a member that uses Torque with a Bluetooth adapter. Maybe they will stop by with a tip.
What type of software are you using on the Laptop with the Nissan-14 adapter?
If you cannot get one of the OBD2 units to work, you can try reading the code using the information below.
How to retrieve diagnostic codes from ECU.
http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecu.html
How to translate the codes into description information.
http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecudecoder.html
What type of software are you using on the Laptop with the Nissan-14 adapter?
If you cannot get one of the OBD2 units to work, you can try reading the code using the information below.
How to retrieve diagnostic codes from ECU.
http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecu.html
How to translate the codes into description information.
http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecudecoder.html
Last edited by CS_AR; 03-08-2015 at 09:33 AM.
03-09-2015 | 08:50 PM
#18
Thread Starter
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 13
From: Malaysia
Thanks a lot CS_AR, I will go back today and try it, as it look straight forward method.
on laptop using Torque but I will go back home and check version.
There was a post by Ripper7 on a pedal & shift procedure which I have tried, it yields 0-9 blinks each one means something. But when I got 16 blinks, the 0-9 blinks list does not help.
Now lets try this method you gave and hope it helps me.
Frankly in this AliBaba land, every mechanic wants to rip a stranger. last month one mechanic insisted that changing the 6 spark plugs would solve the issue, but after installing the costly plugs and his labor..no change
BTW: this early morning I drove, the colder the weather the better the power seems to be, although a sound of gargle suck as I push the gas pedal.
on laptop using Torque but I will go back home and check version.
There was a post by Ripper7 on a pedal & shift procedure which I have tried, it yields 0-9 blinks each one means something. But when I got 16 blinks, the 0-9 blinks list does not help.
Now lets try this method you gave and hope it helps me.
Frankly in this AliBaba land, every mechanic wants to rip a stranger. last month one mechanic insisted that changing the 6 spark plugs would solve the issue, but after installing the costly plugs and his labor..no change
BTW: this early morning I drove, the colder the weather the better the power seems to be, although a sound of gargle suck as I push the gas pedal.
03-22-2015 | 09:50 AM
#19
Thread Starter
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 13
From: Malaysia
SO depressed because when I opened the ECU cover as you mentioned, I did not find the resent screw...just a black hole...I feel like everytime I try to get help I find the seller of the car removed all access or harness to fix it...
please help.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
see I opened the passenger side (here steering ocated same as UK)..and see only small hole
[IMG]
[/IMG]
and here I tried the other side..it is the cable harness connector
[IMG]
[/IMG]
and here a snap of what is sticker on top of ECU
please help.
[IMG]
[/IMG]see I opened the passenger side (here steering ocated same as UK)..and see only small hole
[IMG]
[/IMG]and here I tried the other side..it is the cable harness connector
[IMG]
[/IMG]and here a snap of what is sticker on top of ECU
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post