Stalling, hessitation, bucking...fixed!
#1
Stalling, hessitation, bucking...fixed!
I was having these symptoms, most frequent when warmed up:
-Stalling in neutral...But when I restarted it, it NEVER was hard to start, it simply started right up.
-Bucking (Sometimes severe)
-Erratic idle (200 to 800 rpm)
-Fuel smell inside cabin
-Loss of power
...But they did not convinced me that the culprit was the MAF as the usual soild symptom was not being able to rev past 2400 RPM...
Given the symptoms, I was suspecting:
-Vaccum leak
-Fuel injectors clogged or bad
-IACV, TB, EGR tube and valve (I did cleaned them a few months ago, but thought that I should go back re-clean and re-check everything)
-Bad/weak fuel pump (As it failed when it was warm...A fuel system pressure test was planned)
I already did this:
-New NGK spark plugs
-New fuel filter
-New air filter
Tried some other things that I did in order to "convince" me that the MAF was bad was disconnecting it while the engine was running and see the reactions:
When I disconnected the MAF sensor, the engine ran similar as if the connector was plugged, no noticeable changes (Besides not going after 2400 RPM)...Funny thing is, that when I reconnected it (Engine still running) the car stalled.
I also measure the MAF with a Voltimeter, GND was fine, Power was fine, and the Voltage signal moved along with the revs without a hiccup.
Read a lot in the forum and on the web, watched a lot of Youtubes videos about it, but the symptoms on my MAX didn't fit with the ones most people was reporting.
While watching some local web page for used cars or parts, I found a guy that was offering all kinds of good/used MAF's, mostly NISSAN (No wonder why)...I asked him for one and he got it, price...$ 27 USD.
I was like: "What the heck? MAF can be removed / installed in less than 5 minutes with a flat screwdriver...I will just try it and see if it works, besides it's not that much money"
On my way to get the part, the car was acting up like never before, which to my purposes it was good, as I would be able to see the difference with the replacement MAF.
5 minutes later, the MAX was back to life...Solid power, no hessitation and idle was steady...The best 27 USD I have spent in a long time.
If you have these symptoms, just try a MAF and do not discard it from your check list when you are having similar symptoms.
Peace!
-Stalling in neutral...But when I restarted it, it NEVER was hard to start, it simply started right up.
-Bucking (Sometimes severe)
-Erratic idle (200 to 800 rpm)
-Fuel smell inside cabin
-Loss of power
...But they did not convinced me that the culprit was the MAF as the usual soild symptom was not being able to rev past 2400 RPM...
Given the symptoms, I was suspecting:
-Vaccum leak
-Fuel injectors clogged or bad
-IACV, TB, EGR tube and valve (I did cleaned them a few months ago, but thought that I should go back re-clean and re-check everything)
-Bad/weak fuel pump (As it failed when it was warm...A fuel system pressure test was planned)
I already did this:
-New NGK spark plugs
-New fuel filter
-New air filter
Tried some other things that I did in order to "convince" me that the MAF was bad was disconnecting it while the engine was running and see the reactions:
When I disconnected the MAF sensor, the engine ran similar as if the connector was plugged, no noticeable changes (Besides not going after 2400 RPM)...Funny thing is, that when I reconnected it (Engine still running) the car stalled.
I also measure the MAF with a Voltimeter, GND was fine, Power was fine, and the Voltage signal moved along with the revs without a hiccup.
Read a lot in the forum and on the web, watched a lot of Youtubes videos about it, but the symptoms on my MAX didn't fit with the ones most people was reporting.
While watching some local web page for used cars or parts, I found a guy that was offering all kinds of good/used MAF's, mostly NISSAN (No wonder why)...I asked him for one and he got it, price...$ 27 USD.
I was like: "What the heck? MAF can be removed / installed in less than 5 minutes with a flat screwdriver...I will just try it and see if it works, besides it's not that much money"
On my way to get the part, the car was acting up like never before, which to my purposes it was good, as I would be able to see the difference with the replacement MAF.
5 minutes later, the MAX was back to life...Solid power, no hessitation and idle was steady...The best 27 USD I have spent in a long time.
If you have these symptoms, just try a MAF and do not discard it from your check list when you are having similar symptoms.
Peace!
Last edited by Logan30; 06-25-2013 at 05:22 AM.
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97_GXE
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
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09-15-2015 06:47 AM