I was going to install my warpspeed y pipe, only to find that the nuts on the cat are rusted round. I had already loosened the header flange bolts, but I had to give up and put it back together. Now I guess I have an exhaust leak because my Max stalled out once and is running a bit shakey. So I guess I need to complete my ypipe install, but what do you all suggest I do about those nuts on the cat?

 

torch them or spray some WD-40 on their and let it soak in.

 

Yea I did that but its rusted round like if some previous owner already tried to remove the nuts. 14 mm socket won't grab. 13 too small. 1/2 and 9/16 were no good either.

 

Well, i guess you have to torch them then.

 

I ended up having to saw into mine a good bit. It eventually came off by turning it after sawing through it. A few hours worth of sawing. Good luck.


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Get yourself a nut buster, a must have tool if you work on old cars or things that are outside and weathered. You might be able to rent one, check with your auto parts store.


This is a better type, I've had mine for years

 

Such a small space to do all that. I guess I'll give the torch and cutting a try. Thanks guys.

 

I didn't think of that, it just might work. Thanks.

 

Time to bust out the grinder, thats the only way I got mine off. Then after grinding both sides of each bolt/nut I had to use an air chisel to get the flange seperated

(ps, this job will earn you 1 man card for the day)

 

I actually like the first link there. May give that a try also to see if I can save my cat converter although I purchased a direct fit Walker to not go through this kind of headache and paint it down with a few layers of rust reformer.

 

Good vice grips

 

I bought that nut splitter but I really want that y pipe on and I'm impatient for it to arrive. If I cut the nuts with a dremel could I just tap the stud out easily? Or how about I heat the nut and hammer in a smaller socket?

 

You will love the y-pipe when you get it on there.

 

I would just wait on the splitter. Cutting takes a really long time, and is on the dangerous side of things. I ended up getting it off after 4 or so hours of careful cutting. I can understand you wanting to get the y pipe on soon, but i dont think cutting it is worth it. I did it because it was my only choice, because i couldn't wait on a nut splitter and i didn't have a torch.


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I use as many of the following as required
1)wire brush to clear away corrosion
2)Penetrating oil-WD40 etc and let soak in
3)heat the nut with a torch
4)use vise grips, or better yet a rounded nut/bolt socket or wrench.
I have a couple of rachet wrenches that are for rusted or rounded bolts/nuts with double sized ends that have saved me a LOT of time and aggravation.

 

Heat can help (propane torch) and/or use PB Blaster to help free it. WD-40 won't do anything (rust belt experience).

I resorted to a grinder with a 4" cutoff wheel - quick and easy, although I did manage to break one off before I tried the grinder.

For bolts that I know will rust, I always throw some anti-seize on the threads to help with next time.

 

Cool thanks everyone, I'll give everything a try this weekend.

 

When I did mine I just torched them,took them off and put in new ones after. WD-40 will not do that much if they are that rusted.

 

My rusted CAT bolts were so melted I also used the grinder, chisel, and drill. The torch did nothing. Taking my time I was able to reuse those OEM metal gaskets.

 

This is exactly what i had to do. PITA!

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I have every single nut removed now but it seems like the y pipe is stuck to the headers. What's up with that?

 

The exhaust parts are constantly being heated then cooled, combine that with years of being in a rust friendly environment, you got yourself a PITA.

Luckily my max has spent it's life in Arizona, rust free, but dang those exhaust bolts looked extra deep fried.

 

your answer here.

 

I had all the nuts out already. I just didn't notice the bolts right by the oil pan. Got it installed. Sounds amazing. Thanks everyone