Okay..

I'm new the the maxima forum, but I've been browsing hard for the past two weeks.

I own "chino86" old Max, the green turbo one from Miami.

The day i got it, it had starting Issues. Took a cpl times for it to start. Once it started, it ran fine.

One day i drove it home, parked it, then got it in the next morning and it made it to the end of my street and then just died.

Hasn't started since and im pulling my hair out trying to figure this thing out.

Thing had done : Replaced front cps, replaced cts, Added two grounds

I ran the codes and it gave me : P1335 P1492 P1105 P0100 P0115 P0134

The trans has been seperated before when the clutch was put in. But adding ground should of ffixed the grounding issues?

It acts like iit wants to start but doesn't.

It pops, starts starts starts, slows down, starts starts starts. Every video I watched on YouTube basicly is the same as mine..

Its tuned oon greddy emange. I dont know what the issue can be.

Checked all fuses also. Seem to be all Good. can smell fuel so its getting fuel for sure.

The battery is in the trunk with one ground in the trunk and one running to the front of the car.

Any help is appriciated!

Btw car is a 98 5 sspeed

 

No, adding a ground on the transmission doesn't make up for not sanding the mating surface. I tried, and it didn't work. Haha. Once I sanded the mating surface, it started right up. But that should only affect starting. I can't look up what all of those codes are right at this moment, so maybe someone else can chime in and help. Good luck.


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codes are :

1335 - ckp sensor
1105 - map sensor
0100 - mass air
0115 - Eng coolant temp
0134 - o2 sensor

The battery has been relocated to the trunk and the ground is ran under the car and into the engine bay and is grounded where the battery used to sit. Behind the drivers headlight. Then there is a ground on the transmission mount and grounded to the same place the battery is grounded to. Also has a ground on the intake manifold.

I made a ground on the transmission bolt closest to the ckp sensor and ran that to where everything else is grounded.Also built a jumper that runs from the bellhousing to a oil pan bolt.

Also, I noticed that the tach doesn't move while I'm cranking. Is this a sign of something?

 

Clean or replace the Ckp sensor, fix or replace the MAF sensor, and replace the coolant temp sensor. All of those can cause hard/not start, and it could have killed the car that day. The battery should be ok as long as its grounded to the chassis. And thats where I put the ground when i didn't sand the mating surface, and it didnt help. But if it was starting after it was replaced, i would worry about the other 3 mentioned earlier, and hope that solves your problem. Haha.


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I've cleaned the maf, replaced the coolant temp a few hours ago.

Still cranking like it did.

I've read that if the tach doesn't move while starting its the ckp sensor?

I'm hoping I dont have to pull the trans apart. I dont have time, and dont have cash to pay someone.

I just hate to keep buying parts, and it do nothing.

 

On the ground wires not replacing properly cleaning up the mating surfaces with a wire brush or whatnot. Mine had the same problem after a clutch job, guy didn't clean it, car would just crank and crank....had him pull it back out and clean it properly, and it fires right up now. I tried grounding wires before removing the tranny again. Just not the same. Per Nissan, the tranny/motor mating surface is a MAJOR grounding point on these cars.

OP, Sounds to me like you have no choice BUT to pull the tranny back out. Sucks, I know. And I don't think my tach moves when cranking...i'd have to pay attention to it though to be 100%

After you cleaned the MAF, is the code still there for it?

 

those are a lot of codes for just a cranking issue. Are you sure the car didnt already have those issues.

As for the cranking, sometiimes a ground wire to the tranny housing will work. Other times u just need to bite the bullet and clean the mating surface.

If your MAF is toast it should still fire up, but it wont stay runninng long

 

Cleaning the MAF wont fix it. It has to be taken apart and have jump wires soldered in it. After a while, the maf gets cold solders in it so it doesnt have continuity all of the time. As far as cleaning the mating surface, you could do it yourself. Jack the car up and do everything as if you were doing a clutch, pull it away from the engine slightly using a floor jack and pry bar, then stick a wire brush in and clean all around the mating surface.


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Does the coolant temp need tto be plugged in to make it Start?

Also, the ground wire in tthr trunk is getting VERY hot while starting.

Has Clifford alarm. I thinl i hhit the valet button before this happened but it ran and made it to the end of my street then died.

So youd figure it wouldn't start ever if it wwas that issue

 

The wires from the emanage to the ecu wiring harness how are they protected? (Shrink wrapped/electrical tapped?) I got a weird starting problem one time from wires contacting one another somehow, car would crank but would not start. It was perfectly fine the day before. I troubleshot it for 2 days and then when I checked the emanage harness it cranked up after that. The fact that you get the cps code should be checked out though because if that is bad you get no spark.

 

The harness is pretty good. All spade connected

I'm lost and it sucks because its my only vehicle

 

honestly this ALL started after I put a cd player in the car now that i think about it


Took It oout and still having the issue

 

Have you checked your fuses and relays? Also, the Ckp sensor and Maf can cause those problems. Check fuses and fix those two things, and if it still wont start, then I dont know. How did the car that time? Did it try to save itself, or did it plummet and die? Also, have you disconnected the battery to let the computer reset?


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Reset the computer alot.


The car started to stumble before it died completely. I've checked fuses but not sure wjixh ones I should look at specifically. And the relays dont really give clear indications oon if they're bad.

Which ones should I look at?

 

Disconnect the emanage, reconnect everything is stock form and see if it starts.

 

The emange is all tied in with the Ecu.

Plus has larger injectors so it wont run on factory ecu

 

Bump

 

Did you fix the MAF or replace it yet? Or that other sensor?


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I have E-Manage on mine, tied in w/ ECU and likely a very similar setup but running stock injectors and N/A engine build. I can tell you a couple of things I did recently and maybe some of this info can be useful:

- Replaced MAF (old one lost sensitivity, lb/min readings were horrible, never went past 8 lb/min at any speed) and my AFR fixed itself and got back to 14.64 from being at 14.3 with bad MAF, my readings now go up to 50 lb/min easily just while cruising thru the city without ever going WOT, car feels like new.

- Replaced spark plugs, old plugs were fine w/ only 80k but now car starts and runs way better w/ NGK Iridium IX. Timing advances fixed themselves across the whole power band, whereas they would dip below the tuned specs previously. But this goes back to the bad MAF as well.

I now have a leaking down fuel injector causing the car to turn over for like 5 seconds when it's hot and it's re-started frequently. The car always starts, but this problem is only getting worse and I'm about to replace the faulty injector. I have an idea about your problem, which I've seen before more than once and is quite possible. You might have a problem with your injectors, especially since they are a bigger upgrade, you might be getting leak down into the engine and if it's leaking any more than mine did the car will stall and not start.
I'm thinking an injector itself might be bad and leaking down, or it may just be the emanage somehow causing a problem w/ the ECU?

From reading your OP, it seems like a fuel problem is very likely, just like it was on mine. If the car is turning over for a while and just doesn't want to start (can't ignite the fuel) then it's your injectors. You can do a simple test, leave the car alone for half the day and don't try to start it, let the fuel run back and get out of the engine, then if it starts or even still stalls but turns over better after sitting for a long time, chances are it's a fuel related problem.

Hope this helps at all, and as always good luck! Keep us posted when you figure it out.

 

I've done that thinking the same..

I let it sit for a day then retry with the same outcome.

Its been sitting in my street for weeks now. No vehicle really sucks. Esp when I have no one around and I have to walk.

Is there any other way to test a leaky injector?

 

Haven't replaced anything because I dont have the money to do so.

Dont want to keep throwing parts at it

 

Photos of this??

 

I hope this helps as I had the same problem a few years ago. Check the relay box by the drivers side headlight look for the ECCS relay and see if it is good, this relay is the one that looks for signal from crank, coolant , and a few other sensors to start the car. Rule of thumb all metal surfaces should always be resurfaces when separated like a clutch job. Last is check your body harness especially the drivers side wheel well, it is not uncommon for a wire to become fuses together or pinched from an accident, these wires are brittle and old. I personally changed my body harness for that same reason no problems since, if you do so just make sure same year and trim, good luck. Just an FYI the harness goes from behind the fuse box in the car to the engine bay and wraps around the front hood latch area.

 

I don't have any of mine, but the thread that tells you how to do it does.


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I've looked for a eccs relay with no luck. Just eccs fuses

 

Hope this helps out locating the ECCS relay, you can change the year to be specific with your vehicle this is the electronic Factory Servive Manual have fun.
Page EL-307
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/1997/EL.pdf

 

What's the reason the rpm gauge doesn't movr while trying to start?

 

Still having issues.

Its getting spark but very weak. The coils were working fine, but then it randomly died while taking off (when it happened)

I'm so confused and tired of walkinG.

I DID notice that the top starer bolt is loose and won't grab a thread (I think)

Could THIS be causing issues?

 

Did u ck grounds??

 

That does have a play in your issue if it isn't seating correctly.

 

I've checked grounds, added 2 also.

Jumped the motor to tranny, then added one from trans to body.

The starter is sitting fine, just top bolt seems too short and isn't grabbing more than one thread