Emergency Help. Experts please respond. Stuck and need to fix and get back home.
08-13-2013, 06:56 PM
#1
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Emergency Help. Experts please respond. Stuck and need to fix and get back home.
Dear Experts
I am in Desperate need for assistance with trouble shooting and figuring out this problem.
Ok Here are the facts.
Its a nissian Max.se 1999
Sad to say but Brian has 265000 miles on him.
Just returned from service so the car has sat for 9 months plus
Just spent 1700 on a tune up, 02 sensors, knock sensor, brakes, rotors, wheel bearing, and the check engine light is still on. Its on only because the crank shaft senor code was set off, after clearing out the other (fixed)codes
Ok Now here is the Problem.. Despite my love for this car. its had a special problem which has ruptured after this 1 day old service.
The problem is that the entire dash board goes blank., the gas gauge, the temp gauge, the speedometer/odomenter does not work, the the rev meter is not reading.the ABS light which is usually on is not illuminated,the check engine light is also off, which showed the crank sensor code.
So
when this happens, I normally bang underneath the fuse box below the steering wheel and the dash board lights up and comes to life. Recently it takes long and long and now finally it is out. The car does drive the head lights come on, but now the battery drains, and the alternator has been changed twice.
I want to blame the mechanic for Brian stalling earlier today and not starting, but
then what if its not the mechanics fault. and why is there no code for this issue.. or are these symptoms indicative of a crank sensor issue.
Need your help. if I can't fix this I will be stranded. thanks in advance.
I am in Desperate need for assistance with trouble shooting and figuring out this problem.
Ok Here are the facts.
Its a nissian Max.se 1999
Sad to say but Brian has 265000 miles on him.
Just returned from service so the car has sat for 9 months plus
Just spent 1700 on a tune up, 02 sensors, knock sensor, brakes, rotors, wheel bearing, and the check engine light is still on. Its on only because the crank shaft senor code was set off, after clearing out the other (fixed)codes
Ok Now here is the Problem.. Despite my love for this car. its had a special problem which has ruptured after this 1 day old service.
The problem is that the entire dash board goes blank., the gas gauge, the temp gauge, the speedometer/odomenter does not work, the the rev meter is not reading.the ABS light which is usually on is not illuminated,the check engine light is also off, which showed the crank sensor code.
So
when this happens, I normally bang underneath the fuse box below the steering wheel and the dash board lights up and comes to life. Recently it takes long and long and now finally it is out. The car does drive the head lights come on, but now the battery drains, and the alternator has been changed twice.
I want to blame the mechanic for Brian stalling earlier today and not starting, but
then what if its not the mechanics fault. and why is there no code for this issue.. or are these symptoms indicative of a crank sensor issue.
Need your help. if I can't fix this I will be stranded. thanks in advance.
Last edited by valdo; 08-13-2013 at 07:02 PM.
08-13-2013, 07:05 PM
#2
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 7
Dash board blacks out and car eventually stalls and chokes.
Dear Experts
I am in Desperate need for assistance with trouble shooting and figuring out this problem.
Ok Here are the facts.
Its a nissian Max.se 1999
Sad to say but Brian has 265000 miles on him.
Just returned from service so the car has sat for 9 months plus
Just spent 1700 on a tune up, 02 sensors, knock sensor, brakes, rotors, wheel bearing, and the check engine light is still on. Its on only because the crank shaft senor code was set off, after clearing out the other (fixed)codes
Ok Now here is the Problem.. Despite my love for this car. its had a special problem which has ruptured after this 1 day old service.
The problem is that the entire dash board goes blank., the gas gauge, the temp gauge, the speedometer/odomenter does not work, the the rev meter is not reading.the ABS light which is usually on is not illuminated,the check engine light is also off, which showed the crank sensor code.
So
when this happens, I normally bang underneath the fuse box below the steering wheel and the dash board lights up and comes to life. Recently it takes long and long and now finally it is out. The car does drive the head lights come on, but now the battery drains, and the alternator has been changed twice.
I want to blame the mechanic for Brian stalling earlier today and not starting, but
then what if its not the mechanics fault. and why is there no code for this issue.. or are these symptoms indicative of a crank sensor issue.
Need your help. if I can't fix this I will be stranded. thanks in advance.
I am in Desperate need for assistance with trouble shooting and figuring out this problem.
Ok Here are the facts.
Its a nissian Max.se 1999
Sad to say but Brian has 265000 miles on him.
Just returned from service so the car has sat for 9 months plus
Just spent 1700 on a tune up, 02 sensors, knock sensor, brakes, rotors, wheel bearing, and the check engine light is still on. Its on only because the crank shaft senor code was set off, after clearing out the other (fixed)codes
Ok Now here is the Problem.. Despite my love for this car. its had a special problem which has ruptured after this 1 day old service.
The problem is that the entire dash board goes blank., the gas gauge, the temp gauge, the speedometer/odomenter does not work, the the rev meter is not reading.the ABS light which is usually on is not illuminated,the check engine light is also off, which showed the crank sensor code.
So
when this happens, I normally bang underneath the fuse box below the steering wheel and the dash board lights up and comes to life. Recently it takes long and long and now finally it is out. The car does drive the head lights come on, but now the battery drains, and the alternator has been changed twice.
I want to blame the mechanic for Brian stalling earlier today and not starting, but
then what if its not the mechanics fault. and why is there no code for this issue.. or are these symptoms indicative of a crank sensor issue.
Need your help. if I can't fix this I will be stranded. thanks in advance.
08-13-2013, 07:20 PM
#3
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Fuk 301 it's 410 Bal Md black/purple.
Posts: 1,860
get the codes first, If the crank sensor codes is showing than the car won't turn over or start. The car has all of the work done to it and are you sure the mechanic,did not over look the problem and went on to a I will do what I like. The immobilizer could of been kicked on also.
08-13-2013, 08:43 PM
#4
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Dear VqMaxman
Thank you for your response, I did some research on your suggestion and it seems you are indeed close to a solution. but some questions hunt me..
My research on immobilizers show that indeed the issue I am facing might just be the problem, but my question is would the key be the problem or the ECU that has the programmed codes, that recognize the key. Also i understand that if there is an immobilizer problem, is it possible that it is malfunctioning, or its dead or there are other underlaying factors that may cause its erratic behavior?
How is such a problem diagnosed?, do computer codes get generated for such problems?
Please provide more insight if you can.. Thanks for the lead.
Thank you for your response, I did some research on your suggestion and it seems you are indeed close to a solution. but some questions hunt me..
My research on immobilizers show that indeed the issue I am facing might just be the problem, but my question is would the key be the problem or the ECU that has the programmed codes, that recognize the key. Also i understand that if there is an immobilizer problem, is it possible that it is malfunctioning, or its dead or there are other underlaying factors that may cause its erratic behavior?
How is such a problem diagnosed?, do computer codes get generated for such problems?
Please provide more insight if you can.. Thanks for the lead.
08-13-2013, 09:47 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Fuk 301 it's 410 Bal Md black/purple.
Posts: 1,860
Do you see a red light blinking on the dashboard, left steering wheel side. It's near the cruise control button side. Turn the key over and see if the car will turn over or not. If the blinking security light stays on the immobolizer has disabled the ecu from starting up. The ecu and the immoblizer are connected. The ecu and the immobolizer have a connection into the ecu and back into the cylinder key.
08-13-2013, 10:15 PM
#6
The problem is that the entire dash board goes blank., the gas gauge, the temp gauge, the speedometer/odomenter does not work, the the rev meter is not reading.the ABS light which is usually on is not illuminated,the check engine light is also off, which showed the crank sensor code.
So when this happens, I normally bang underneath the fuse box below the steering wheel and the dash board lights up and comes to life. Recently it takes long and long and now finally it is out. The car does drive the head lights come on, but now the battery drains, and the alternator has been changed twice.
I want to blame the mechanic for Brian stalling earlier today and not starting, but then what if its not the mechanics fault. and why is there no code for this issue.. or are these symptoms indicative of a crank sensor issue.
Need your help. if I can't fix this I will be stranded. thanks in advance.
So when this happens, I normally bang underneath the fuse box below the steering wheel and the dash board lights up and comes to life. Recently it takes long and long and now finally it is out. The car does drive the head lights come on, but now the battery drains, and the alternator has been changed twice.
I want to blame the mechanic for Brian stalling earlier today and not starting, but then what if its not the mechanics fault. and why is there no code for this issue.. or are these symptoms indicative of a crank sensor issue.
Need your help. if I can't fix this I will be stranded. thanks in advance.
This could be a problem with the connections on the back of the instrument cluster. There have been several cases of this. The connections are flat ribbon cables and the method of connection is not as good as a regular wire type connection, in my opinion. You would have to remove the instrument cluster, remove the cables (3 of them), and clean the contacts.
Another possibility is that the fuse that powers the instrument is maybe bad or the legs that plug in are getting corroded. Replace it or swap it with another fuse and see. It is a 10 amp fuse # 13. Fuse 13 is in the middle column, 2nd from the bottom.
08-13-2013, 11:01 PM
#7
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To Vpmaxman
I believe this may be the Problem. A small hole was drilled into the key years ago since the original holder part broke. Now a ring has been used in that holeto attach it to my bunch of keys and with regular wear and tear the hole got bigger.
I believe the chip in the key as well as the immobilizer are getting faulty. I did what you asked and checked the security red blinking light. it stayed on (bright solid red )at the first turnover, and then went off, but while the key was still in the ignition it went black, then started to blink again. Now the funny part is when I removed the ring from the key. and tried it again the dashboard light up. the windows began to work. the only problem is the is it did not completely turn over and crank up.I believe that part is caused from the drain of the battery. So my next question is what will be a fix for that. the immobilizer and ecu communication repair?
I believe this may be the Problem. A small hole was drilled into the key years ago since the original holder part broke. Now a ring has been used in that holeto attach it to my bunch of keys and with regular wear and tear the hole got bigger.
I believe the chip in the key as well as the immobilizer are getting faulty. I did what you asked and checked the security red blinking light. it stayed on (bright solid red )at the first turnover, and then went off, but while the key was still in the ignition it went black, then started to blink again. Now the funny part is when I removed the ring from the key. and tried it again the dashboard light up. the windows began to work. the only problem is the is it did not completely turn over and crank up.I believe that part is caused from the drain of the battery. So my next question is what will be a fix for that. the immobilizer and ecu communication repair?
Last edited by valdo; 08-13-2013 at 11:13 PM.
08-13-2013, 11:09 PM
#8
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To Dennismik
Thank you for your analysis and intervention. Here are some more facts to consider. On a fully charged battery, the Car cranks up and starts. the dash board lights up. but after about 3 stops and restarts the car starts but the dashboard blacks out. The power windows are not operational, the the signals dont work, but the headlight works. the AC does not work, but the fan blows in regular outside temperature air.. So if I comply with your intervention, is there a possible link that will resolve the power window and AC issue?
Thank you for your analysis and intervention. Here are some more facts to consider. On a fully charged battery, the Car cranks up and starts. the dash board lights up. but after about 3 stops and restarts the car starts but the dashboard blacks out. The power windows are not operational, the the signals dont work, but the headlight works. the AC does not work, but the fan blows in regular outside temperature air.. So if I comply with your intervention, is there a possible link that will resolve the power window and AC issue?
08-13-2013, 11:44 PM
#9
What I said would have no connection with the a/c or the windows. There is a bigger problem and the instrument cluster, the a/c, the turn signals and any other things are symptoms. They are probably ok and by themselves, don't need repair.
As to the immobilizer being at fault, I don't think it is the problem. If you have an immobilizer problem, the red security light will be on solid while you are trying to start the car. The engine will crank over but will not start because the immobilizer turns off the fuel injectors. The part about the key being drilled so you can put a key ring in it shouldn't be a problem because the chip is located in the one of the corners that is close to the steering column.
With the additional information, you have an electrical power problem - lack of power.
Now to try and figure out the real problem. You said "On a fully charged battery, the Car cranks up and starts." This makes me think that the battery runs down, as if the the alternator is not charging it. This may sound like a strange question, but do the windshield wipers work? All the time or some of the time?
First, we need to know if the alternator is charging. You need a voltmeter for this, I hope you have one. When the car is not running, the battery voltage on a fully charged battery will be 12 to 12.5 volts. When you start the car, the voltage should read about 14 volts. This means that the alternator is charging. 14.5 volts or higher and the alternator is bad and needs to be replaced but not causing the problem you are having.
Now, if the if the voltage is 12 volts when the engine is running, the alternator is not charging. This is what I think may be happening. But it may not be an alternator problem, though. We would have to check several things.
Get the voltage checked so we can figure out what to do next.
As to the immobilizer being at fault, I don't think it is the problem. If you have an immobilizer problem, the red security light will be on solid while you are trying to start the car. The engine will crank over but will not start because the immobilizer turns off the fuel injectors. The part about the key being drilled so you can put a key ring in it shouldn't be a problem because the chip is located in the one of the corners that is close to the steering column.
With the additional information, you have an electrical power problem - lack of power.
Now to try and figure out the real problem. You said "On a fully charged battery, the Car cranks up and starts." This makes me think that the battery runs down, as if the the alternator is not charging it. This may sound like a strange question, but do the windshield wipers work? All the time or some of the time?
First, we need to know if the alternator is charging. You need a voltmeter for this, I hope you have one. When the car is not running, the battery voltage on a fully charged battery will be 12 to 12.5 volts. When you start the car, the voltage should read about 14 volts. This means that the alternator is charging. 14.5 volts or higher and the alternator is bad and needs to be replaced but not causing the problem you are having.
Now, if the if the voltage is 12 volts when the engine is running, the alternator is not charging. This is what I think may be happening. But it may not be an alternator problem, though. We would have to check several things.
Get the voltage checked so we can figure out what to do next.
08-14-2013, 12:09 AM
#10
I thought of something for you to try. I want you to switch 2 relays.
One of the relays is call the Ignition Relay and this relay provides power to a bunch of fuses and these fuses serve the gauges, the windows, the turn signals, the a/c, the door locks, the alternator and more.
You will have to remove the lower part of the dashboard, the piece that is below the steering wheel and above your knees when you are sitting in the driver's seat. On the left side of the fuses you will see 3 relays. The Ignition relay is the middle one. Switch it with the bottom relay, which is for the heater & a/c fan. Then start the car and see what happens.
One of the relays is call the Ignition Relay and this relay provides power to a bunch of fuses and these fuses serve the gauges, the windows, the turn signals, the a/c, the door locks, the alternator and more.
You will have to remove the lower part of the dashboard, the piece that is below the steering wheel and above your knees when you are sitting in the driver's seat. On the left side of the fuses you will see 3 relays. The Ignition relay is the middle one. Switch it with the bottom relay, which is for the heater & a/c fan. Then start the car and see what happens.
08-14-2013, 05:54 AM
#11
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Check the other smaller wires on the positive battery cable terminal. I think your 99 has two additional wires that are connected to the positive cable. Take them apart (nut and bolt) and clean the connections really well.
08-14-2013, 08:46 AM
#12
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I thought of something for you to try. I want you to switch 2 relays.
One of the relays is call the Ignition Relay and this relay provides power to a bunch of fuses and these fuses serve the gauges, the windows, the turn signals, the a/c, the door locks, the alternator and more.
You will have to remove the lower part of the dashboard, the piece that is below the steering wheel and above your knees when you are sitting in the driver's seat. On the left side of the fuses you will see 3 relays. The Ignition relay is the middle one. Switch it with the bottom relay, which is for the heater & a/c fan. Then start the car and see what happens.
One of the relays is call the Ignition Relay and this relay provides power to a bunch of fuses and these fuses serve the gauges, the windows, the turn signals, the a/c, the door locks, the alternator and more.
You will have to remove the lower part of the dashboard, the piece that is below the steering wheel and above your knees when you are sitting in the driver's seat. On the left side of the fuses you will see 3 relays. The Ignition relay is the middle one. Switch it with the bottom relay, which is for the heater & a/c fan. Then start the car and see what happens.
08-15-2013, 04:42 AM
#15
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Again I want to thank everyone for the support I recieved with my situation. So far the the relay fixed the problem I had. It also only cost me $13 from autozone.. You all have been a great team. A special thank you goes to Dennismik and vpmaxman for being the first to address my concerns and provide immediate support. Thank you once again..
Valdo.
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