not sure if anyone has experienced this before but I am hoping someone has to where they can give me insight on what I need to replace. I let my 95 max sit for a few weeks and afterwords when I fired it up it would hesitate a little bit while running now after a few months have passed it will randomly lose power and try to kill itself out like it is not getting fuel to the motor but the smell of fuel inside the interior is so strong it is nauseating.

any advice? it also shakes violently when driving at low speeds when this occurs and if you just give it a little more gas when it is happening it will eventually break through and go back to normal. also if the car idles like I said it will bog down and kill itself.

 

If you are smelling gas, evidently the engine is running rich, not starving.

Have you checked for codes? Is the check engine light on? Does the check engine light work?

 

The running rough sounds like a misfire. See if you can identify which cylinder is causing it, then swap the coil pack and see if the misfire follows the coil. That could be your hesitation too.

 

checked codes manually without a scanner last night came back with code 0505 and that is all which resulted to be idle air control. going to clean my iacv and tb today to see if that helps the issue. any suggestions on what to use with cleaning this parts? ive been told carb cleaner and a old toothbrush but also been told carb cleaner can damage this parts by others.

checked cylinders all running full compression and just did a tuneup 6 months ago so surely doesn't need another in my opinion but if I can find out what has been causing this for last few months I will end up doing another tuneup due to it running so rich plugs are probably burnt at this point

 

Manually codes are not P codes. 0505 means nothing is wrong, all clear.
The misfire isn't mechanical, you need to look at coil packs (ignition).
Another tune up is a waste of $$ and time.

 

if that's the case that 0505 means nothing is wrong then why would the check engine light be on?

after I cleared it manually by the ecu/ecm it went off for a few minutes and came back shortly after driving again.

 

If the check engine light is on, there is a problem. 0505 is exactly what njmaxseltd said, no problem. We have an inconsistency here. Take the car to an auto parts store and have them hook up an OBD code reader and find out that way.

 

no stores around me scan obd1 cars.

and my car is 95 which was obd1

 

I wouldn't think running rich would smell so bad. Have you checked for leaks in the fuel line, maybe at the fuel pump? Don't ignore the possibility that you might have two separate problems. If the fuel smell isn't related, you might have an MAF issue.

 

The 1995 Maxima IS OBD II compliant. The connector is accessed from the passenger side footwell, near the ECU.

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...compliant.html

 

fuel lines are good and checked the fuel pump and even the sock in the tank.

I saw that topic after I said my car was OBD I and went to advance to scan as OBD II today and came up with codes P0100, P0135, and P0155

the P0100 was MAF which im going to attempt replacing this weekend and see if it helps

the P0135 and P0155 were O2 sensors which I already knew those codes would pull due to the guy I purchased my car from removed the O2 sensors when he modified the exhaust system ran cattman headers and y-pipe with no cat or resonator and a pacesetter muffler. but the car has had this done for over 1.5 years and issue just arose around 3 months ago so im hoping its just the MAF

if I do need to add 02 sensors back to the car I have grown to like the sound it has is there a way to get it to run properly without adding the cat back onto the car? even if the solution is putting a hollowed out cat on the car? any suggestions appreciated I have been working on removing back pressure and running pretty much straight pipe because future plans were to rebuild motor completely if not replace it and get a turbo setup with a tune from a shop once I find this all and get the money saved up

 

A new MAF will take care of the stumbling and running rough.

It would be beneficial to your gas mileage to add the O2 sensors back onto the exhaust manifolds by getting bungs welded on. You could avoid putting the cat back on the car. You can have a bung welded on the pipe where the original sensor was and use an extender on the O2 sensor to avoid a code. Or you could use a simulator.

 

so just drill a hole in the straight pipe where the cat used to be? and place the 02 sensors in the straight pipe? correct me if I am misunderstanding you I want to make sure I do it correctly I don't care about the cel being on I just want it to run better fuel economy wise without putting a cat back on the car I enjoy having the sound it gave the car I also may change my mind once I get the exhaust leak fixed as well though because currently my flex pipe has a hole in it.

where would I look at getting a simulator to avoid a code just out of curiousity

 

The car originally had 3 catalytic converters. There was a small one for each bank of the engine, referred to as pre-cats, and these were built into the stock y-pipe. There was an O2 sensor in the y-pipe before the exhaust gas went into the pre-cat. These are referred to as upstream sensors. Then there was an O2 sensor after the main catalytic converter, referred to as a downstream sensor, that monitored the exhaust gas as it came out of the catalytic converter.

The factory had the upstream sensors in the y-pipe close to where it bolted onto the exhaust manifold. With custom headers the position should be where the 3 individual tubes merge together. Not having worked with custom headers, I'm somewhat at a loss.

If you don't care about the CEL, you could skip the downstream sensor that would normally be after the cat.

As for using a simulator, they are somewhat difficult to find as they are illegal to sell. I think there may posts on the org on making one yourself, but you would have to search for it. I think it is just essentially a resistor of some value.

 

P0135 and P0155 were my codes which were left and right bank would i put those where my cat used to be or where should the bungs be put im sorry for stupid questions i have never done this before

 

The P0135 & P0155 code are for the sensors that monitor the exhaust gas as it comes out of the cylinders, before the cats.

If you read this thread, post # 4 has a link to a place that sells simulators.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...on-fouler.html

 

im going to the junk yard Saturday so ill probably pick up a couple sensors while I am there maf and 2 o2 sensors just as a temporary fix until I can afford to replace with new also just to make sure this fixes the issue because don't want to invest too much money if its not going to run right again.

I will let you know what I find out when I replace MAF and weld a couple bungs onto the exhaust to just throw two o2 sensors into the exhaust I don't think I explained what I was asking in my last post the two o2 sensors throwing those codes do they go in the y pipe or where would they belong so I put them atleast in the correct general area.

I am also planning on replacing the flex pipe so that all issues I currently know of are taken care of except for the suspension issues.

 

On the stock exhaust header, the O2 sensor is right after the point where all the individual cylinder exhausts are merged together. It is probably within 12 inches of the cylinder head. Custom exhaust headers usually have much longer individual cylinder tubes, but the O2 sensor should be after the point where individual tubes merge together. Using a stock Nissan O2 sensor will probably need the wire length extended, not a big issue.

It would be an experiment, but if you wanted to try putting the O2 sensor in one of the individual cylinder exhaust tubes and avoid having to splice wires. Other than the O2 sensor monitoring just the one cylinder, I think it would work otherwise.

 

I noticed today the pulley attached to crankshaft shakes quite a bit I believe its the harmonic balancer corrwct me if I'm wrong is it at all possible that could cause any issues like I am having. Also a buddy of mine said check the tps is there any way to test the throttle positioning sensor

 

The harmonic balancer is coming apart, so it needs to be replaced. This will not prevent the car from starting.

You can check the throttle positioner. The procedure starts on page 162 of section EC in the FSM.

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1995/EC.pdf


If you don't have the FSM, download it from here:

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1995/