gruesome

Howdy,

The epic battle of the water pump (caught before Autocorrect watery pimp) is over. The car starts and revs in park and neutral. Sounds rough and stalls in gear. Checked for codes the two o2 sensor codes are still there, but the misfire in #4 is gone. The car is also rather loud. Could it just be the exhaust manifold nuts to the downpipe are not tight enough? Any ideas would bee greatly appreciated.

bprice92

iTrader: (2)

Did you have a previous thread where you said you were going to check the timing?

Your symptoms sound very similar to mine at the moment. I neglected to release the fuel pressure. This caused my timing to jump because the oil hadn't built up pressure. Sounds like an old tractor, stalls in gear. Fun times

I will not go through that process without removing the engine this next time.

gruesome

It revs to red line fine. Hoping it is just the nuts for the exhaust to take it off because the book said to aren't tight enough. 2 inches of rain on the ground right now I'm not going to underneath the car in a gravel driveway. Timing is fine. Did have a thread mentioning an idiot dropping the timing chain tensioner into the timing cover. The one that started that watery pimp phrase

gruesome

It wasn't the nuts.

Reality sucks

iTrader: (3)

Check power and grounds...electrical

gruesome

Thanks, saw another thread that suggested condensation rust on maf sensor electrical connections. Got the idle tweaked up so I can go to work tomorrow morning. Could either of those cause p300, random multiple misfires?

bprice92

iTrader: (2)

If you have a 99 you'll want to replace all coil packs w/ OEM. That year is notorious for bad ones.

I have a 96 and in my case a couple of my coil packs had both of the inner prongs bent upwards. The outer two connected just fine. Straightened them out and my p0300 went away.

jfactor

Not exhaust manifold nut torque issue.

gruesome

Have a a 96 . Replaced all six coil packs back in July. I'll check that after work. Thank you much! Feels great to be driving again though

gruesome

Strange I didn't have that code before the water pump ordeal

Reality sucks

iTrader: (3)

Did you unplug a coil ? Check to make sure you didn't bend one of the pins down when installing the connector on the coil pack? P0300 codes are generic if you have access to a scan tool, check the misfire monitors to locate the cylinder that's missing and go from there.

gruesome

I have a scan tool $43 from Amazon. Unplugged #1. I'll have to check for the misfire monitor on my scanner. It does live readings for oxy sensors so OTC should have misfire monitor?

Cleaned rust of maf prongs,idles smoother, still stalls below 1000 rpm. Goes faster than I think I'm going on the highway though.

gruesome

Checked coil packs today. All tightly plugged, no bent terminals

Reality sucks

iTrader: (3)

What's the charging voltage look like?

gruesome

Not really sure, just have the idiot light. It starts first try if that means anything

Reality sucks

iTrader: (3)

well what are the codes? If you have a scan tool, under live data, and it should tell you there. Look at the sensors in your pid list. You have the tool, got to learn to use it. Its telling you what the car is doing. No offense

Quickywd01

iTrader: (16)

Vacuum leak?

gruesome

Three codes for two o2 sensors and the p300. The mechanic who helped with timing chain realignment is thinking possible head gasket. Could a head gasket cause p300? He quoted me $150 if it is the head gasket. Good price?

gruesome

The oil looks fine plugs are dry, so not the head gasket. Bottom row didn't look burned like the top row did. Bought yard coil packs for the front. No difference , didn't have a multimeter handy. New codes are P 300 random intermittent misfires and p735 incorrect third gear ratio. The codes that have been there since I got the car, are p135 and,136 as well as 155. Replaced the front o2, sensor once with a new one, died the next day.

Reality sucks

iTrader: (3)

1. Verify battery voltage on the Red wire and ground on the Black wire at each of the Ignition Coils.

2. Scope the pulsed voltage signals from the computer to each of the coils - look for a 0 to 2-4 volt saw tooth pattern. See if any signals look different than the others that could help isolate a specific ignition coil.

3. Check the harness by the passenger strut tower per TSB #NTB98-008B.

Also, you may need to check the cam timing, a p0300 code can come from incorrect timing as well. If everything else checks out electrically.

Check fuse #34 for battery voltage for o2's first if you cant read live data from your scanner for there values

gruesome

Cam positioning sensor was replaced this fall if that means anything. I checked resistance on the used coil packs I bought yesterday got 11. Something. Not sure if I did it right. The marks on the chain matched with the pulleys. Don't mean to sound like a cementhead, but what do I use to check voltage at coil packs?

It is irritating to leave the house for work when there is daylight and have darkness when I get out.

gruesome

Thank you much reality sucks for helping

gruesome

Going back to the junkyard. I unplugged coil packs one by one when the car was running. The front three from the yard, there was a major difference. The three aftermarket (I know now, please don't rub it in) were a vague difference at best.

gruesome

Thank you for all the help guys! You friggin rock!

gruesome

rear head gasket crop dusted I 95 Saturday morning