Starting issues
Starting issues
I have had a starting problem for almost a month.
I will sum up the symptoms.
- have to hold key in start position for a minute+ to get the car to start cranking
-once car STARTS cranking it fires right up
-replaced ignition switch
- replaced starter solenoid
- replaced battery wiring
- cleaned up connections from solenoid to starter
- tried starting ign switch with a screwdriver (didn't work)
-if I jump ignition wire to power wire on starter solenoid the car will crank but i still need somebody to turn the keyto start position to actually start the car. (Wont start by just jumping solenoid alone)
-new battery
-new alternator
I don't know where to go from here
P.S. yes I have another thread about this but it got kind of messy. I wanted a fresh thread that clearly states what i have tried or not tried.
I will sum up the symptoms.
- have to hold key in start position for a minute+ to get the car to start cranking
-once car STARTS cranking it fires right up
-replaced ignition switch
- replaced starter solenoid
- replaced battery wiring
- cleaned up connections from solenoid to starter
- tried starting ign switch with a screwdriver (didn't work)
-if I jump ignition wire to power wire on starter solenoid the car will crank but i still need somebody to turn the keyto start position to actually start the car. (Wont start by just jumping solenoid alone)
-new battery
-new alternator
I don't know where to go from here
P.S. yes I have another thread about this but it got kind of messy. I wanted a fresh thread that clearly states what i have tried or not tried.
Haha funny story, I've been avoiding the relays because I lost the cover for them that says which relays are which. But I have a manual transmission.
With a manual trans, remove the inhibitor relay and replace it with a jumper in pins 3 and 5. Pin numbers are molded into the socket. Inhibitor relay - stand in front of the car and look at the relay box. The inhibitor relay is in the row closest to the battery, the middle one.
There is a switch on the clutch pedal that, if bad, will prevent the interlock relay from energizing. You could unplug the wire from this switch and put a jumper in the wire harness connector as a test.
There is a switch on the clutch pedal that, if bad, will prevent the interlock relay from energizing. You could unplug the wire from this switch and put a jumper in the wire harness connector as a test.
Don't jump pins 4 & 7 (auto trans). Jump 6 & 7, this lets the ignition switch supply power instead of the cruise control switch.
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