Usually having the pedal all the way out would mean that its going bad, or if it revs when floored but dosnt accelerate... well the past two days I have been having the opposite, have to put the pedal to the floor to disengage/engage. There is about 3-4 inches of pedal travel before it does anything. Car has 90k on it and the clutch has really got some wear the last 3 years. Other thought was clutch fluid and I will check that although I dont remember if/where the reservoir is..

 

The reservoir is in the top right corner of the engine bay. It sounds like you should check your fluid. If its low, you may need to find the leak. Once you add fluid (if its low), pump the clutch a good bit and it should stiffen up. If it does not, you may need to bleed the line.

 

Fluid was basically gone, filled it up guess ill see if thats all it takes.

 

You have a leak, likely in the clutch line near or at the slave cylinder.

Look into getting a SS braided 1 piece line.

 

Spent the evening bleeding the clutch and found the leak area, not sure what the black rubber hose with brase fittings on either end is called but that seems to be the source.

 

Thats a section of your clutch line. Get the 1 piece stainless steel line, its like $40 or so and replaces the leaking section, as well as the maze of hard lines and junction boxes between the slave and master cylinders.

I had the same problem in pretty much the same spot. No sense in paying nissan out the **** for a poor OEM design when you can get a stainless line thats better in literally every aspect for cheap.

Just make sure you get the one piece (slave to master) and not the half piece (slave to junction). Both work but the one piece is simply easier to deal with and makes more sense imo.

 

Any sudgestion on length and I assume any braded line would work just like braded brake lines. If I understand it would get rid of the maze of hard ines and rubber lines with a single line from the master to basically the bleeder.