Cranks but wont start--Fuel question

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Mar 2, 2014 | 05:11 PM
  #1  
Hi guys

97 V6
I went through 3 hours of threads so I know all the sensor and alarm quirks that can cause a crank but no start.

He's the weird thing. I pulled out the fuel pump fuse to release the pressure to check the filter and it started for about 20 seconds then of course stalled as its suppose to.

Why would it not start with the pump on and will start when its off?
Does this tell me anything?

BTW..I did put the fuse right back in to see if it would now start--but no deal. Pulled it out again and it did start crappily then stalled.

So, I dont have a pressure gauge, but I pulled the line from the top of the fuel filter to see what kind of flow comes out when I switch the key to on. It comes out about half the speed of a kitchen faucet then stops(im guessing it may stop because of some protection shutoff IDK.) I dont know if it should be shooting out like 10 feet or just 1 foot--anyone know? BTW..Im using a line on top of the filter and running it away from the car(about 3 feet of tubing)

my family is dead broke or I'd get it towed. Gotta try myself.
Thanks
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Mar 2, 2014 | 06:54 PM
  #2  
It's not flooding right? Sounds weird, hope you get it figured out soon.
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Mar 4, 2014 | 08:13 AM
  #3  
Thats what I thought but then it wouldnt start when I let it sit.

But I'd really like to know if the amount of fuel it released was normal. It was about half the pressure or lower than a kitchen faucet and shot only about 10 inches out the hose before gravity took it down.
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Mar 4, 2014 | 09:10 AM
  #4  
I think that's normal. Clean your grounds, just a guess. Try the one off the battery negative cable first, sand them clean. I'm having similar issues on my '97 se 5spd.
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Mar 4, 2014 | 01:58 PM
  #5  
I wonder if you have a bad fuel pressure regulator that allows full pressure to the injectors, thereby flooding the engine.

The ECU will turn the fuel pump off after a second or two if it does not sense any pulses from the crankshaft sensor on the flywheel.
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Mar 4, 2014 | 02:07 PM
  #6  
Quote: I wonder if you have a bad fuel pressure regulator that allows full pressure to the injectors, thereby flooding the engine.

The ECU will turn the fuel pump off after a second or two if it does not sense any pulses from the crankshaft sensor on the flywheel.
I agree. FPR gets overlooked always.
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Mar 7, 2014 | 07:24 PM
  #7  
Thanks for the responses so far.

I'm gonna check the fuel regulator tomorrow.
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Mar 8, 2014 | 12:59 PM
  #8  
I got it started but there is noise coming from the engine--like a horn or wailing be blown for a second as it starts. It does not continue and subsides after a few repeated starts. It is not the kind of noise that comes from the belts. It is more low pitched like a horn

weird. There was no fuel in the regulator tube. I switched out the relays with the sunroof relay but I dont think it was that cause the sunroof still works.

I cleaned the grounds too. So I dont know why it started

any thoughts on that weird sound?
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Mar 9, 2014 | 11:37 AM
  #9  
Now it needs gas when starting. If you dont hit the gas pedal on the first morning starts it will just stall and then when it warms it works. anyone?
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Mar 9, 2014 | 11:59 AM
  #10  
For all 4th Gen owners stop wasting your money on sensor that are not bad. Check your fuel injectors pintle caps which break and let the fuel leak which causes hard start and long cranking for it to start and check your fuel pressure regulator as well. Trust me don't listen to most people that say change your sensor when there not bad and there's no code. Most of them are guessing. I listened to most people over here for a longtime wasted my money on sensor when I should of checked the obvious thing field or spark and it was fuel. Now my car starts on the first attempt every time by fixing my pointless caps and just krazy glueing them so they will never move or fall off.
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Mar 9, 2014 | 03:34 PM
  #11  
Quote: For all 4th Gen owners stop wasting your money on sensor that are not bad. Check your fuel injectors pintle caps which break and let the fuel leak which causes hard start and long cranking for it to start and check your fuel pressure regulator as well. Trust me don't listen to most people that say change your sensor when there not bad and there's no code. Most of them are guessing. I listened to most people over here for a longtime wasted my money on sensor when I should of checked the obvious thing field or spark and it was fuel. Now my car starts on the first attempt every time by fixing my pointless caps and just krazy glueing them so they will never move or fall off.
What exactly did you superglue? Pics?
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Mar 9, 2014 | 04:07 PM
  #12  
I glued the brownish looking cap on the fuel injector which is called a pintle cap and i glued the inside of of it so it has a strong grip and it doesnt break off.
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Mar 10, 2014 | 03:46 AM
  #13  
Thanks man.
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Mar 10, 2014 | 12:42 PM
  #14  
Quote: I got it started but there is noise coming from the engine--like a horn or wailing be blown for a second as it starts. It does not continue and subsides after a few repeated starts. It is not the kind of noise that comes from the belts. It is more low pitched like a horn
Noises are really hard to describe, but I had kind of a quiet howling that came under about 1000 RPM, then would go away. It increased in pitch when I turned the steering wheel, so I thought it might be my power steering pump. Turned out it was the alternator dying.
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Mar 10, 2014 | 01:08 PM
  #15  
Quote: Thanks man.
No problem man.
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Mar 10, 2014 | 01:08 PM
  #16  
Engine coolant temperature sensor..check it.
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Mar 10, 2014 | 01:49 PM
  #17  
After owning my 97 se 5spd for two months it started acting up. Sometimes when it would act up it would crank longer than usual and not fire up but rather stop cranking like something got jammed. I'd take out the key and do it again usually a couple of tries before it would fire up. Most times it would fire up normal and not act up at all. Now it won't crank at all. I swapped out the starter and battery, no crank and really dim dash lights so I cleaned two grounds and battery terminals. It fired up right away only once, drove around the block, parked, turned it off, tried again and it only cranked slowly. Battery is three years old (new hardly used sitting in garage). Push started it and drove home 3 miles on highway and turned it off in my driveway, 5 mins later it is still stuck where I parked it. Won't crank just hear a solid CLICK. Weird thing now is that when I pull the key out some dash lights stay on. If I open the door they go off. Or if I smack the steering column area even lightly they turn off too. I'm going to try replacing the ignition switch. Man what a nightmare.
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Mar 24, 2014 | 02:22 PM
  #18  
Quote: Thanks man.
Did you fix your problem? If so, what was the solution?
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