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Changed my 96 Maxima Valve Cover Gasket (pics)

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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 06:28 AM
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Changed my 96 Maxima Valve Cover Gasket (pics)

long story short, I changed my valve cover gaskets on my maxima because 3 weeks ago i would see spots of oil when I move the car, and when I would have the defrost running I would get a oil small from the vents, reason why it took me so long is because here in New York it's still very cold, yesterday was a bit warming so I got it done.

I did this by myself, the job wasn't hard as I thought it would be, the hardest part was getting the EGR Valve at the back of the intake, and very little space to work with, removing all that oil build up was a big job as well because my engine degrease product from walmart didn't work as well as I wanted to so I had to use a wire brush as well, I also took the time out to paint the air Intake, it's not the best paint job because it was very dark, and cold at this time... check it out below

when i got to the gasket it just broke up into little pieces, and the bolts took little to no effort to lesson













Part 2

This one was much easier to do, and everything went pretty well, the sun was out in New York City today so i just went to work, and this is what I ended up with









Last edited by The Wizard; Mar 10, 2014 at 12:52 AM.
Old Mar 6, 2014 | 06:35 AM
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can someone rename this thread to valve cover gasket
Old Mar 6, 2014 | 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by L_U_D_I_AMaxima
can someone rename this thread to valve cover gasket
I'm pretty sure it's all the same
Old Mar 6, 2014 | 07:47 AM
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^ They aren't the same.
Old Mar 6, 2014 | 08:01 AM
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haha, yeah. Definitely a valve cover. The head gasket job is just a little different. And by little, I mean A LOT different. Granted, the rear VC job is harder than the front. Nice job on the VC if it doesnt leak. Hope you used a lot of permatex grey! Did you torque the VC bolts back to spec?
Old Mar 6, 2014 | 09:04 AM
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^^agreed when I read the title I thought.to myself, "wow someone did a head gasket job instead of swapping motors". Then I got to the part where the OP said it wasn't to difficult, and realized that OP ment "valve cover" gaskets.
OP: a head gasket job is way different than a valve cover gasket job. Is much more difficult and requires way more man hours. Most people just swap the whole motor out because its easier.
Your thread is great and in my opinion is to valuable for future searches to get confused/lost in the search engine. For all these reasons I think it'd be awesome if you change the title to "valve cover gasket".

Good job man it looks like your getting this DIY mechanic stuff down pat.

Last edited by 6cyl-97maxima; Mar 6, 2014 at 09:11 AM.
Old Mar 6, 2014 | 11:02 AM
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well i didn't know there's a spec amount of tightness to it so i just made sure they was snug down, and that the gasket was in place, however i still see little bits of oil dripping down on those 2 bolts that's on the control arm, I'm hosting that it's not leaking, And I've been smelling oil when i turn on the defroster I'm hoping that's just leftover oil burning somewhere on the exhaust somewhere, and i didn't use any permatex grey on the job
Old Mar 6, 2014 | 11:16 AM
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yeah, there is a torque spec for every bolt on your car. I recommend tightening down to their respective torque specs.

It is still leaking. You are going to have to re do it. You will need to use permatex grey all the way around it. You will need a lot of it in the left corners where it raises up.

Permatex grey is a silicon gasket sealer.
Old Mar 6, 2014 | 11:20 AM
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I don't think it would be dripping the same amount as it was before, unless something else is leaking or it just left over oil dripping
Old Mar 6, 2014 | 11:51 AM
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well keep an eye on it. Most likely it is leaking. The only time I did a valve cover without using permatex grey, it started leaking as soon as I started the engine.
Old Mar 6, 2014 | 12:44 PM
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yeah ima clean the back part of it and keep checking it, i have a feeling its the power steering hose, but ive yet to match up both oil with whats dripping, its too cold out here
Old Mar 6, 2014 | 01:01 PM
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Nice pictures! I did my front valve cover gasket. Did not want to play with the rear. Was it difficult to remove the intake plenum?

Great tip on the permatex sealer as well.
Old Mar 6, 2014 | 01:12 PM
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the hardest part for me was getting the EGR bolts at the back, and a few hoses that's hard to reach, but it's not that hard of a job, but it does take time, and your gonna leave with your lower back acing from all that time bending over pulling stuff off
Old Mar 6, 2014 | 04:19 PM
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So I check the oil that was leaking down those 2 bolts close to the oil pan, I smell the oil and rub it between my fingers to compare it to the engine oil, it didn't smell anything like engine oil so I got fluid from the steering fluid container, but it didn't smell 100% to that smell that came from the bolts but I'm pretty sure that's that's what's leaking oil, what you guys think? I mean its the same amount of fluid that was dripping before I changed the valve cover gasket, I would expect it to leak the same amount all over again, I don't think my car was ever leaking oil, but I'm glad I change that gasket though

Last edited by LuminousX; Mar 6, 2014 at 04:24 PM.
Old Mar 6, 2014 | 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by matts95max
yeah, there is a torque spec for every bolt on your car. I recommend tightening down to their respective torque specs.
Torque specs for the vc bolts is only like 8 ft/lbs. which isnt much at all and on a modern day torque wrench, you won't feel the "click". I just tightened them until they were snug an never had any problems.
Old Mar 6, 2014 | 06:38 PM
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I've learned through the years that using 1/4'' ratchet works best for valve covers: you tighten it, but will not be ably to put much torque with short handle
Old Mar 6, 2014 | 07:47 PM
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That is not a headgasket. L.M.A.O.! hahahahahahahah You wish you changed the headgasket. Just kidding.
Old Mar 7, 2014 | 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Quickywd01
That is not a headgasket. L.M.A.O.! hahahahahahahah You wish you changed the headgasket. Just kidding.
That's not nice, be nice.
Old Mar 8, 2014 | 10:47 PM
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(Main Post Updated)

*Part 2*

This one was much easier to do, and everything went pretty well, the sun was out in New York City today so i just went to work, and this is what I ended up with








Old Mar 9, 2014 | 10:47 AM
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fixed
Old Dec 7, 2014 | 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by LuminousX
I don't think it would be dripping the same amount as it was before, unless something else is leaking or it just left over oil dripping
Keep in mind, Valve Cover Bolts are torqued in "Inch Pounds" 2 steps. The 1st should be 9 to 25 in lbs and 2nd step & final step should be 55-60 in lbs. I usually torgue VC to 55 Inch lbs. *Note "Oil Pan" gaskets are same.* Inch pounds NOT Ft lbs. Just fyi........ Nice job on the VC job and painting the intake.
Old Dec 7, 2014 | 09:26 PM
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A valve cover job is very easy with the right tools. Also you don't really need to use and permatex or silicone sealents for the gaskets as none of mine have any sealent and they are not leaking at all. Just tighten them really tight.
Old Dec 7, 2014 | 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Maxima 97 SE
A valve cover job is very easy with the right tools. Also you don't really need to use and permatex or silicone sealents for the gaskets as none of mine have any sealent and they are not leaking at all. Just tighten them really tight.
This contradicts the FSM in two ways. Permatex Grey should be applied in the corners, and I'm a firm believer if following the FSM's torque sequence and torque specs.
Old Dec 8, 2014 | 06:13 AM
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Nice, I need to do this too. Did you paint your intake manifold and valve cover with spray can paint or power paint?
Old Dec 8, 2014 | 08:05 PM
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SNAP!!!! After a few heat cycles!!!!
Old Dec 10, 2014 | 12:36 AM
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FSM guidelines >*
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