Have you guys seen this?

Because I had a parasitic drain, I disconnected my battery for the past two days that I knew I'd be away from my car. When I reconnected it, my key wouldn't start my car. Because I wasn't at home, I temporarily swapped to the 95 ECU that I keep in my trunk for just such an emergency.

After I got home, I stumbled upon the above link, which I somehow missed the first time I had this problem. It appears to have worked on the first try, and it's confusing to me that I've never seen anybody mention this on this and other forums.

 

so you did it with your 99?

I wonder if this is something that would work in the event of being immobilized due to NATS, without swapping ECUs like you did?

 

Yes, I did this to my own car, a 1999 Maxima. The interior lights didn't come on in step 3, but I have a pre-existing issue with that.

The scenario you describe is exactly what happened here. I switched my original 99 ECU back in, did this procedure, and it's now back to normal.

However, after I re-swapped the ECUs, I did not first verify that it still wouldn't start, but went straight to activating the key. So, it may have fixed itself independently of what I was doing, which is what happened the last time I had this problem. I had bypassed the fuel pump relay, since that is what everybody says the immobilizer deactivates, and gotten the car to start, but later put the relay back in and had no problem.

 

Disconnected battery to measure amperage of drain, car wouldn't start afterward. Key activation sequence did not work until I replaced the fuel pump relay with a jumper, which is weird because after activation, it runs just fine with the jumper. Instead of interior lights flashing, I did notice that the turn signal indicators flashed instead.

 

Good timing on this thread. Hopefully, I can get this to work when the replacement ECU arrives next week.

Also note, the security light is on for being immobilized. Do you know if this will remove immobilization causing the security light to stay on?

I tried the switch on switch off (different than above) steps to remove immobilization several times without success. The ECU was bad at the time and that may explain the reason the procedure didn't work.

 

I also have tried two different versions of key on-off sequences, neither of which worked for me.

I didn't specifically notice my security light staying on, because all of my attention was focused on being pissed about being stranded, but after activating, the light does behave as it is supposed to.

 

I read that procedure that bewrong gave the link to. It is amazingly similar to the keyfob (remote) programming sequence. In fact, it says "your new keyfob" in step 4. When you enter the keyfob programming mode, the turn signal lights flash.

If that procedure actually works, it is amazing that it has been found after all these years.

 

No way this works IMO.
as Dennis said..looks like the key fob programming not the key.

 

If it doesn't work, then my key spontaneously reprogrammed itself, by coincidence, at the same time as i was doing this. Which I'm not dismissing as a possibility.

When I read it, I thought there was no way it would work, since the eHow didn't even specify any specific years or models. However, I've done this twice today.

 

That process is to activate a key FOB (remote) not for the security system.

 

Did you read the part where I successfully programmed a key doing this?

Tangentially, I don't see any way in which the remote is not considered part of the security system. It controls the locks and alarm, and nothing else.

 

The keyfob is a part of the overall security system just as the key itself is. It is a means of turning on and off the alarm, locking the doors, etc. The key does it mechanically, the keyfob does it electrically.

But one difference is where the keyfob and the key are registered. The key is registered in the ECU and the keyfob is registered in the BCM.

The keyfob is strictly for the alarm and the the chip in the key is used for the NATS.

Having the keyfob remote is not necessary for the car to run. Nissan designed it as an optional piece of equipment and not all Maximas had it.

 

trunk lever? darn, I don't have that. hell, I don't even have a trunk button! lol (at the moment)

 

Not only trunk lever but also the wire connector behind the plastic around the steering column. I just saw it the other day on here, thread even had pictures.

 

Hi guys I currently have my car parked in front of my house and have not been able to use it do to nats I've also been looking to see if anyone from the form can help me give me some input on what to do and no 1 p.m. me or give me any input I tried putting up POSt but no feedback can i really put in an older computer and will this help my car turn on I have a 99 se 5 speed

 

You can use the computer out of any of 95 through 98 Maxima, either automatic or manual. The 95 is the best documented swap, but the other years should be fairly similar. You will need to relocate six wires on the harness connector, and it will run and drive just fine. It will generate several emissions-related trouble codes because the 99 uses some different parts.

You can also have a mobile locksmith fix it for you, but sometimes the fix doesn't last very long. The dealer can do the same thing as the locksmith, but costs more, in addition to having to tow your car there. There are several NATS reset procedures, such as this one, that sometimes work and sometimes don't.

 

So does the ecu have to come out of a m/t or dose it matter since my car is manual and isn't the 95 obd1

 

And which wires are they

 

It does not have to come out of a car with a manual transmission. 95 is OBDII compliant, even though it wasn't required yet. Detailed instructions here.

 

Bewrong where did you come from?
Quit handing out misinformation.

Fed Spec and Cali spec matters.
Auto and manual ECU matters if he doesn't want a check engine light on.
95 ECU is only needed if you're needing to keep your CEL off for your states vehicle inspection for emissions.

 

No misinformation. Why are you worried about possible transmission codes (which wouldn't impact drivability), yet dismissive of emissions codes, while at the same time harping about Fed/Cali spec emission codes.

Your reading comprehension is lacking.

 

Good luck here mang.

 

so I took my car to the dealer they charged me $39 and reprogrammed my key I'm car works as good as new now just updating my problems thanks guys whit ur help