Any one have any tips on changing a drivers side control atm and ball joint on a 99 se max ive never done one done just about everything else on the car tho haha

 

Since you have to disconnect the sway bar from the control arm, have both front wheels at the same level such as both off the ground, otherwise you will be fighting spring tension in the bar.

 

All the bottom bolts are 22mm....I would also pull your Strut from the spindle, remove the tierod outer end from the spindle, to remove the axle out of the spindle and make loosening and tightening that lower balljoint (19mm) really easy with an extension and ratchet and not the open combo wrench which slips off really easy! When you go back together I would defifnitely recommend using anti-seize on most of the LCA hardware!! Don't forgot remove and support your brake caliper and get your ABS sensor out of the spindle as well! The 4th gen spindle use seals on the axle bearings so be careful!

 

Technically it's by the book, but that's a lot more work than what's needed, you're adding a few hours when it's not necessary.

You do not need to remove the spindle from the strut nor the tie rod from the spindle, you can leave it on.

If you do not own a big 19mm wrench then I suggest removing the axle from the spindle (turn the steering wheel away from the side you're working on to gain more room to remove the axle from the spindle.

If you do own (or buy one... preferably a thin head ratcheting, perfect for the job, saves time and effort) a large 19mm wrench then you can work with the space nissan gave you with the axle in there.

Also Cmax03 forgot to mention about the cotter pins, owning a skinny long set of pliers goes a long way when working with those.
Oh and he also forgot to mention to pop the ball joint/tie rod out you can use the good ol hammer trick, you tube it.

 

ABS sensors don't like to come out in one functioning piece. I would just unplug it and detach it from the body if need be.

If you can use a combination open/box end wrench on the ball joint there will be no need for fooling with the abs, tie rod, or axle.

Many will tell you that an alignment is necessary, but the truth is that only toe is adjustable anyway, and that shouldn't change because you aren't jacking with the tie rod.

 

 

Dont have ABS

 

There are 6 main bolts (3 control arm and 3 compression rod), do not brake off removing. The compression rod has a bolt and the link has 2. That's all you need to remove and replace in addition to the ball joint. Just has cheap and better to buy the control arm that comes with both bushings and ball joint, complete. Maybe $45 online and shipped. In addition to a good breaker bar, you might need some heat.

 

Get a new pin-link bushing. I promise you the current one is seized into the LCA and it's a ***** to get off without mangling.

 

Does any one know if i have to mess with the tirods or axel to do this job?.. And is an allignment called for after i finish? Even tho i just got an allignment last weekend

 

I know. You can remove the lower control arm without removing the cv spindle or touching the tierod ends, other than obviously, the sway bar link has to come off and should be replaced while you are at it. However, as the ball joint nut is directly under the axle, it is very difficult to get a strong purchase on it as you cannot access it with an air gun or ratchet. You can loosen it with a flat wrench and a hammer or pipe extension on the wrench. It is very likely you will need a torch to get it all loose, especially, the bolt that holds the compression arm or pin-link in its bushing. These bushings are often split and iron seized. You need to have that nut off before you remove the arm itself and likely need a torch to free the old busing and pin. This is a very difficult job without heat. A mechanic could possibly insist on the extra time to open the hub spindle area of the cv for better ball joint access, but it is not absolutely necessary. An alignment should not be necessary as a result of replacing the lower control arm.

In my case, I thought it was a control arm when a belt had actually turned in the tire that was not visible until it was on a balancing spin machine. As a word to the wise, if you don't have a torch, you could find yourself up a creek halfway thru the job and unable to re-assemble.