ghostI30

iTrader: (8)

I changed the slave cylinder but still the pedal is sticking to the floor. What other problems can it be

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

Master, air in line, or the line itself.

If you don't have a ss one piece line. Get one.
Worth every penny.

ghostI30

iTrader: (8)

Will bleed it and see

JvG

Your problem is due to the *!*ed up needlessly complicated mess of lines that Nissan cursed our cars with. THe solution is always the one-piece stainless steel hydroulic line that you can find on Amazon or fleabay. Do a search in this forum.

CS_AR

The need to bleed.. Did you bleed both upper and lower valves?

I changed the fluid on the clutch the other night and the clutch pedal would stick to the floor until I bled both upper and lower and gave the pedal a few pumps. I used a clear plastic hose that I bought at a local Ace Hardware store to snap over the valve end and drain it into a bucket. The clear plastic hose let me see when no air bubbles were present when the valve was opened to bleed the system. After thoroughly bleeding the system, I pumped the clutch pedal back and forth and the clutch pressure returned to normal.

back2basics

iTrader: (4)

I have to agree with the others, get the braided line...you won't regret it.

I bled my clutch 4 times with no real change, then I decided to let it sit and order the line I needed. After 1 try with the new line I was able to bleed the line fast and was back in business.

ghostI30

iTrader: (8)

Thanks for all the advice. Will look for that line & install it

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

http://www.technafitstore.com/Nissan...p/nccl-201.htm

CS_AR

Thanks Fakie - I ordered a NCCL-201 on Thursday. It looks like a must have item for the MT owner.

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

ghostI30

iTrader: (8)

Got my one pc line. Will install this week and see if it cures my problem then i can prep it for the de-k swap

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Should've bled your master first! Then work your way down to the slave,.... air rises and more than likely was in the distribution block or in the Master cyl...My 86.5 HB p'up has hat same distribution block as every M/T Nissan out there and it's never had a problem....I notice that most 240, Zcars, and Maxima enthusiast like to mod to this single SS braided line...I personally think it's just a sign of yall not knowing how to bleed a hydraulic system correctly...IMHO!

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

I think I may the only person who is not a fan of the braided clutch line. I believe that Nissan engineers made the OEM cltuch lines goofy and complicated for to expose as much of the clutch line piping to air to keep the clutch fluid cool. A method to the madness, so to speak.

I wonder if anyone who's replaced their clutch line has experienced boiling clutch fluid. It could occur on some extreme auto-crossing.


Anyhow, when you bleed the system, the bleed process is to keep moving the air bubbles upwards. Bleed the slave cylinder 1st to push the bubbles up to the master. Once you've completed that, then bleed the master to finally push the bubbles up and out.

The bleed procedure is in the factory service manual, Clutch section, page CL-6.

Quickywd01

iTrader: (16)

Pressure plate blew up, shift fork broke in half, etc.

ghostI30

iTrader: (8)

Oh no hopefully it isn't that

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

I think they are great but I've seen 2-3 people use these when there was obviously something else wrong....I not a fan of the line but they do work...and the few that used this didn't have engagement until the damn floor......LOL!
Why would it boil???? It's not in direct contact with the heat source like brakes are!!!!!! If that was the cause the fork boot would be made of a heatproof material not rubber!

CS_AR

A couple of days ago I changed the clutch fluid and bled the lines starting with the upper and then the lower fitting. I was able to pump up the clutch pressure without an issue.

Last night I installed the braided line. I connected the line from the slave cylinder to the distribution box that feeds the upper bleeder so I can still use both upper and lower bleed valves.

After pumping/bleeding all of the air from the lines for a couple of hours, the clutch pedal still hangs on the floor. Though, I can see the slave cylinder moving a little when the clutch pedal is pressed.

The master cylinder appears to be working because because I can easily purge the system with a bleeder valve open.

Could I have had a slave cylinder that was on the brink of failure and changing to the new line helped push it over the edge?

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

IF the slave cyl was failing/failed, there would be fluid oozing out of it.

When you installed the line, I take it you kept the distribution block and the buffer loop? (FYI, that loop is there as a vibration damper, NOT a cooling loop for the 1/2oz of brake fluid in your lines.) When you remove the huge loop, you'll notice more vibrations in the clutch pedal, thus the reason for the loop.

Remove the block and the damper loop from the equation and connect the SS line directly to the hard line coming out of the mater cylinder.

When you're bleeding this line, do you have anyone helping you, or are you trying to do all of this by yourself? If you're doing it alone, that's half the problem. bleeding the clutch is a PITA by yourself. I spent HOURS messing with it myself before I gave up and got some help. done in 5 minutes.

CS_AR

Yep, I kept the distribution block and the huge loop cause I could see it will buffer vibrations. Also, I've got a helper and a routine for up, down, open, closed.

I'll look into temporarily removing the distribution block.

Getting the old line out of the distribution block was was major PITA.

Are there any SAE sizes being used in the metal pipe fittings? Last night I was using a 10mm pipe wrench that didn't seem to be right for removing the line going into the distribution block. Since I don't have any SAE sized pipe wrenches, and that was a stubborn fitting to remove, I had to use vice grips and apply a lot of pressure to remove it from the block.

Does anyone try to reuse the original 14mm OEM banjo bolt with the new line and crush washers? I used the new banjo bolt and crush washers but I noticed the head on the banjo bolt seems to be made from softer metal or doesn't quite fit on my 14mm like the OEM banjo bolt.

JvG

The best SS line attaches only to the master and slave cylinder. Very easy to bleed that way. Keeping all the crazy plumbing that Nissan cursed us with is only asking for problems with bleeding. I installed the one-piece line and have been quite happy with it.

CS_AR

Thanks JvG. I've definitely bled and cursed (invented some new words) while messing with crazy Nissan plumbing over the years.

Unfortunately, we don't get plumbers rates when we work on our stuff to straighten out or cut through some of the Nissan Gordian Knots.

Yep, I've found it better to just go direct to the source -- that is unless there is a sensor in the line.

This is a good primer for an instructional series of pictures to demonstrate modifications I have queued up to be called "4th Gen - EZ Plenum Life" or something to note life with an EZ Plenum..

On the clutch note, I was all revved and took some pictures last night about using Adel Clamps to secure the new Stainless Line using Stainless Cap Head Socket to the bolt holes left behind by 10mm bracket on the engine mount. More on that once I get this to work.

CS_AR

Last night I finished up the new braided clutch line installation and removed all air bubbles from the system without any helper assistance. I decided to give connecting the new line to the distribution box another try. It worked once I switched my approach for bleeding the system. The new clutch line setup is just right. The new line makes the clutch feel firmer and more direct with no vibration feeding back to the clutch pedal. It seems like the best of both approaches that eliminates any rubber lines.

Since I used the existing distribution box and kept upper bleed valve box intact, I was able to connect a clear plastic hose that I bought at Ace Hardware to the upper bleeder valve nipple then connected the opposite end to the smaller Mighty Vac Automotive Fluid Extractor line. I pumped up a vacuum pressure then watched as the bubbles made their way out through the clear plastic line.

A few weeks ago I purchased the Mighty Vac 7.3 liter to replace my old Pela 6000 fluid extractor pump that I use for bleeding brake systems, transmission fluid changes, and oil changes where the vehicle has an elevated oil pan drain plug prevents all oil from being drained.

I was able to stand beside the car and operate the pump to remove all of the air bubbles while pouring brake fluid into the master cylinder. It went fast. I'll post a thread on the clutch line replacement with pictures of the new line and the clear plastic line as the air bubbles were exiting the system on the weekend.

This MV fluid extractor pump makes the job of bleeding brake systems go crazy fast.

JvG

After I installed the one-piece stainless line I bled without help. I found that the clutch pedal would kind of 'snap into' a catch on the very bottom of travel. Then I closed the bleeder on the slave cylinder. Then I lifted the pedal, opened the bleeder, etc. It took about 5 times before I stopped getting air. Easy as could be. I feel no vibration in the clutch pedal.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Aggressive clutch activity like autocross driving boils clutch fluid all the time. If you google it you'll see that it's common, or severe, in 370Zs and Corvettes.

Anyway, to each his own.

Quickywd01

iTrader: (16)

So what was it? My friends eclipse gs-t is still having the same issue after a new slave and master. Going to take the trans off next.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

The fluid doesn't boil in the 370Z. It cavitates on pedal return due to a very tiny orifice in the line to attempt to slow the speed of the clutch pedal for a smoother release. not really a good idea when you're beating on the car and want a fast release.

I've spent hours on a road course in a turbo'd 370 and never had problems boiling fluid. IF it was going to boil, it'd be on a car that's got a 1200deg turbo and exhaust right next to the lines for a half hour at a time...

JvG

I just use my Max for daily transportation, and for some spirited driving on the weekends. I have the one-piece line. I have never had any problems with clutch issues when it is hot and I am pushing it. Disclaimer: I am 60 years old.... but I do not drive like an old man. Don't laugh-- you will be my age too in 30 years.

CS_AR

Time flies when you're having fun!

Actually I my big paws (e.g. baseball catcher like hands) kept me from connecting directly into the master cylinder. I recently injured my left hand while removing a VQ30DE head from my car trunk so I've got a couple of weeks before I can fully use it in a tight place again. I think I could use my right hand in that area if I were double jointed.

Many times (though mostly on Hondas) I have removed a part using a wrench to discover I can't get my hand in a tight place to reinstall a bolt or new part.
Luckily I've not had that problem with Nissan/Infiniti products.

The clutch line master cylinder fitting is an area where I took an alternate approach by connecting into the distribution box for no other reason than a temporary physical limitation.

As a side note the new line is longer than the old setup so I coiled a loop into the new line that rides on top of the original metal fluid line coils.