Hard starting when warm/hot
06-19-2014, 09:18 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 451
Ok this how I fixed my hard start issues with my Nissan maxima 1997 se automatic. I had to make sure my fuel injectors were good and they were but not the pintle caps that hold the O-rings together. The pintle caps were cracked and they allowed fuel pressure to leak into the cylinder and as soon as I Fixed those the car would start right away on every start. Then later on car would still start on the fisrt start but as soon as I would start after an 1-2 hours the car would start but would almost stall but it wouldn't and I figured it had to be a fuel pressure problem and it was. The fuel pressure regulator was good as I had a new oem one on. That left me to the fuel pump. I had put a an oem fuel pump that had 129,000 miles that I thought would run good but now I know no matter how many miles the pump has it can still be bad and it was luckily I had a oem Nissan fuel pump from 1995 Nissan maxima with only 176,000 miles and now no more problems. its been two weeks and now im finally happy that I don't have to work on my car anymore or worry about the starting because after 1 whole year it's finally gone. Its gone and now I am getting more gas millage as I filled my tank with premium 91 and I still a half of a tank with 180 miles. Im hoping to get at least 300 miles with a full tank of gas now that the car has no problems with 303,396 miles on it. Now if I can get 300 miles from my maxima now where I used to 260 miles with a full tank that would kick *** and I would be happy. I would replace the fuel pressure regulator first as mine was bad and it causes extended cranking because it would not hold fuel pressure.
Last edited by Maxima 97 SE; 06-19-2014 at 09:20 PM.
06-19-2014, 10:39 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 451
Before buying anyparts test your fuel pressure. I had tried every sensor on the car and even the coolant temperature sensor and by the way your car willstart and run fine without the coolant temperature plugged in andthe only thing that will happen without the coolant temperature is that it will give you a high idle and the fans will stay on. But it can be that sensor as well, but i doubt it. The two things that a engine needs to crank and run is fuel and spark. You have spark, but you dont have enough fuel for the engine to start on the first try which makes it crank for a long period of time until it builds up enough pressure to start. Go to autozone and rent a fuel pressure gauge and test your fuel pressure before buying anyparts.
06-19-2014, 10:44 PM
#6
Before buying anyparts test your fuel pressure. I had tried every sensor on the car and even the coolant temperature sensor and by the way your car willstart and run fine without the coolant temperature plugged in andthe only thing that will happen without the coolant temperature is that it will give you a high idle and the fans will stay on. But it can be that sensor as well, but i doubt it. The two things that a engine needs to crank and run is fuel and spark. You have spark, but you dont have enough fuel for the engine to start on the first try which makes it crank for a long period of time until it builds up enough pressure to start. Go to autozone and rent a fuel pressure gauge and test your fuel pressure before buying anyparts.
Fuel, spark, compression.... Also check you idle air control valve that gave me hard starts in both hot and cold weather..
Last edited by deloa84; 06-19-2014 at 11:05 PM.
06-20-2014, 08:01 AM
#7
Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Tampa Bay
Posts: 123
I had issue with starting that was the Coolant Temp Sensor -- but it was only on cold starts. But you can get the part cheap... so why not.
As Maxima 97 SE's giant block of text is a bit much to read, I went ahead and formatted it for digestibility (simply because I'm a designer, ..I have a compulsion):
I would replace the fuel pressure regulator first as mine was bad and caused extended cranking as it wouldn't hold pressure.
I found this in another thread: To check the FPR just unplug the vacuum line and see if fuel comes out. Then, with it unplugged, start the car and see if you still have the same starting issue.
I made sure my fuel injectors were good, and they were, but not the pintle caps that hold the O-rings together. The pintle caps were cracked and allowed fuel pressure to leak into the cylinders.
Once they were fixed the car would start right away - every time. Later, the car would still start on the first try but after an hour or two, the car would start and almost stall. I figured it had to be a fuel pressure problem. Since I had a new oem fuel pressure regulator on I assumed it to be good.
That left the fuel pump.
I had previouisly installed a used fuel pump ( OEM 129,000 miles) ...no matter how many miles a pump has it can still be bad. I was lucky to have an OEM Nissan fuel pump on hand from a 95 Maxima (176,000 miles) to swap and no more problems!
My gas mileage improved -- I filled my tank with premium 91 and I still had half a tank after 180 miles. Im hoping for at least 300 miles on the full tank (compared to the 260 miles per tank) that would kick *** and I would be happy.
As Maxima 97 SE's giant block of text is a bit much to read, I went ahead and formatted it for digestibility (simply because I'm a designer, ..I have a compulsion):
I would replace the fuel pressure regulator first as mine was bad and caused extended cranking as it wouldn't hold pressure.
I found this in another thread: To check the FPR just unplug the vacuum line and see if fuel comes out. Then, with it unplugged, start the car and see if you still have the same starting issue.
I made sure my fuel injectors were good, and they were, but not the pintle caps that hold the O-rings together. The pintle caps were cracked and allowed fuel pressure to leak into the cylinders.
Once they were fixed the car would start right away - every time. Later, the car would still start on the first try but after an hour or two, the car would start and almost stall. I figured it had to be a fuel pressure problem. Since I had a new oem fuel pressure regulator on I assumed it to be good.
That left the fuel pump.
I had previouisly installed a used fuel pump ( OEM 129,000 miles) ...no matter how many miles a pump has it can still be bad. I was lucky to have an OEM Nissan fuel pump on hand from a 95 Maxima (176,000 miles) to swap and no more problems!
My gas mileage improved -- I filled my tank with premium 91 and I still had half a tank after 180 miles. Im hoping for at least 300 miles on the full tank (compared to the 260 miles per tank) that would kick *** and I would be happy.
06-20-2014, 08:42 PM
#8
Newbie - Just Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 8
Thank you all, we found something obvious
I had issue with starting that was the Coolant Temp Sensor -- but it was only on cold starts. But you can get the part cheap... so why not.
As Maxima 97 SE's giant block of text is a bit much to read, I went ahead and formatted it for digestibility (simply because I'm a designer, ..I have a compulsion):
I would replace the fuel pressure regulator first as mine was bad and caused extended cranking as it wouldn't hold pressure.
I found this in another thread: To check the FPR just unplug the vacuum line and see if fuel comes out. Then, with it unplugged, start the car and see if you still have the same starting issue.
I made sure my fuel injectors were good, and they were, but not the pintle caps that hold the O-rings together. The pintle caps were cracked and allowed fuel pressure to leak into the cylinders.
Once they were fixed the car would start right away - every time. Later, the car would still start on the first try but after an hour or two, the car would start and almost stall. I figured it had to be a fuel pressure problem. Since I had a new oem fuel pressure regulator on I assumed it to be good.
That left the fuel pump.
I had previouisly installed a used fuel pump ( OEM 129,000 miles) ...no matter how many miles a pump has it can still be bad. I was lucky to have an OEM Nissan fuel pump on hand from a 95 Maxima (176,000 miles) to swap and no more problems!
My gas mileage improved -- I filled my tank with premium 91 and I still had half a tank after 180 miles. Im hoping for at least 300 miles on the full tank (compared to the 260 miles per tank) that would kick *** and I would be happy.
As Maxima 97 SE's giant block of text is a bit much to read, I went ahead and formatted it for digestibility (simply because I'm a designer, ..I have a compulsion):
I would replace the fuel pressure regulator first as mine was bad and caused extended cranking as it wouldn't hold pressure.
I found this in another thread: To check the FPR just unplug the vacuum line and see if fuel comes out. Then, with it unplugged, start the car and see if you still have the same starting issue.
I made sure my fuel injectors were good, and they were, but not the pintle caps that hold the O-rings together. The pintle caps were cracked and allowed fuel pressure to leak into the cylinders.
Once they were fixed the car would start right away - every time. Later, the car would still start on the first try but after an hour or two, the car would start and almost stall. I figured it had to be a fuel pressure problem. Since I had a new oem fuel pressure regulator on I assumed it to be good.
That left the fuel pump.
I had previouisly installed a used fuel pump ( OEM 129,000 miles) ...no matter how many miles a pump has it can still be bad. I was lucky to have an OEM Nissan fuel pump on hand from a 95 Maxima (176,000 miles) to swap and no more problems!
My gas mileage improved -- I filled my tank with premium 91 and I still had half a tank after 180 miles. Im hoping for at least 300 miles on the full tank (compared to the 260 miles per tank) that would kick *** and I would be happy.
Last edited by Copious; 06-20-2014 at 08:44 PM.
06-21-2014, 01:37 AM
#9
^The Mass Air Flow sensor is a wire that is heated by a voltage. When air passes by the thin wire, even just the slightest puff of air, it will cause a change in temperature of the wire which then changes the output voltage or signal that the ecu gets. It then uses this data, the data collected from the intake air temperature, and data from other sensor to calculate how much air is headed into the engine.
With that said, buy some MAF cleaner and spray it in there generously and clean it as best as possible. If you can grab a spare MAF from a junk yard or look here in the classified, I would do so just to have a spare... I have spare crank sensors and I did have a spare MAF until I gave it to a friend in need, just in case I happen to need one...
With that said, buy some MAF cleaner and spray it in there generously and clean it as best as possible. If you can grab a spare MAF from a junk yard or look here in the classified, I would do so just to have a spare... I have spare crank sensors and I did have a spare MAF until I gave it to a friend in need, just in case I happen to need one...
Last edited by deloa84; 06-21-2014 at 01:43 AM.
06-21-2014, 09:05 AM
#10
Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Tampa Bay
Posts: 123
(Dont touch the MAF interiors, just spray the cleaner in there. They are very sensitive. Dont use a toothbrush or carb cleaner, etc.)
06-22-2014, 05:42 PM
#11
Newbie - Just Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 8
Cleaned the MAF
^The Mass Air Flow sensor is a wire that is heated by a voltage. When air passes by the thin wire, even just the slightest puff of air, it will cause a change in temperature of the wire which then changes the output voltage or signal that the ecu gets. It then uses this data, the data collected from the intake air temperature, and data from other sensor to calculate how much air is headed into the engine.
With that said, buy some MAF cleaner and spray it in there generously and clean it as best as possible. If you can grab a spare MAF from a junk yard or look here in the classified, I would do so just to have a spare... I have spare crank sensors and I did have a spare MAF until I gave it to a friend in need, just in case I happen to need one...
With that said, buy some MAF cleaner and spray it in there generously and clean it as best as possible. If you can grab a spare MAF from a junk yard or look here in the classified, I would do so just to have a spare... I have spare crank sensors and I did have a spare MAF until I gave it to a friend in need, just in case I happen to need one...
Truly perplexing and all the posts I have seen are missing one thing, FOUND IT!
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