rellrealist

Gotta 97 max that has been sitting for a year. I'm sure the battery is dead. It has 270xxx miles on it but the last time I started it it started right up. Car hasn't been inspected since 2010 I got it from the auction March of 2014. But my question is what should I do to get it drive able . Such *** fluids and what certain checkups should I be looking for. I also have a broken hose on my air flow thingy...

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

Fix the hose and change the oil.
Double check all other fluid levels and put the battery on a charger.

Watch out for flat spots on your tires if you didn't over inflate them before/during storage.

It's likely the gas is bad too unless you used stabilizer.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Definitely use fresh engine oil and filter before starting the car. I would add some engine cleaning stuff such as Risoline to the oil and then change the oil after maybe a 1000 miles.

If you need power steering fluid, these cars use Dexron III auto trans fluid, not whatever standard power steering fluid is.

Once the car is running and everything seems to be fine, flush the cooling system and add fresh antifreeze.

97_GXE

My Max sat in a garage for awhile...not sure how long, before I bought it. The issues I was having was it being hard to start especially on low fuel. Even now, when I get too low on fuel it can be tough.

My first car was also an old rusty Buick that sat under a tree for YEARS.

In addition to all the tips above, take it for a long road trip...use a full tank of gas to get all the old gas out. Change the fuel filter (easy to do) since all the enzymes and bacteria has multiplied in your fuel tank. Let the engine get hot for awhile to burn off oil residue that may have glued itself to the internal parts. Use Startron, BG 44k or Lucas Ethanol fuel cleaner.

97_GXE

Also, no diss to the above poster, but I wouldn't waste money on oil additives. Theres already additives in the top brand oils. Just a good synthetic or blend and a long drive will do. The fuel additives I mentioned would generally be to lubricate the dried out parts from the ethanol.

rellrealist

Don't kno y pics aren't loading...
There is one obvious broken hose and another hose that I can't seem to find what it belongs too or were it comes from

jholley

iTrader: (13)

If you're referring to the hose near the AT dipstick then it's the AT breather hose that doesn't connect to anything.

Your photo is not detailing any specific hose so I don't know if this answers your question?

rellrealist

Maybe it is... when the car was running I never seen any fluids leaking out of it... it comes up right between the mass air flow sensor and the engine block

jholley

iTrader: (13)

That's the location of the AT breather hose that doesn't have any top connection.

As earlier stated install a charged battery, change your oil, filter, gas... and check all other fluid levels.

JoshG

damn no wonder why its been sitting, 270k miles is quite alooot of miles lol. but get that bad-boy running again and see if u can get it to run again... just listen to what they are saying.

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

SupaMaxima

Also, bleed your brakes while you're changing the fluids. I had mine sitting for about 1.5 years and I was barely able stop when I took it for a test drive. I overran a couple stop signs due to this.

bumpypickle

iTrader: (1)

DONT use synthetic oil. Your car has been sitting for a while and has high mileage. It is not reccomended. Also, personally I would completley redo brakes (rotors, pads, caliper, brackets,hoses,fluid,etc.)

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Everyone's told you pretty good info but I would start it with the old fluids first just to see if there are any leaks then drain once you've got it pretty warm if possible! I would hate to have a really serious leak after putting new fluid in the car...But i would inspect as much as possible visually before starting and ensure any bad situations!!!

rellrealist

When it ran nothing leaked or squeaked... engine sounded good... no check engine lights or anything... I'm hoping I don't have any troubles... I can tell the previous owner took pretty good care of it... I even still technically have 10000 miles left on my warranty tires... found the paper in the glove box when I bought it... hoping my taxes come fast so I can get her up n running again

bumpypickle

iTrader: (1)

Thats good news. Have fun working on it. I enjoy a good w.i.p.

JoshG

interesting to see it only sat a year and runs fine afterwards

asand1

iTrader: (1)

I can see the hose with the broken nipple you are referring to. It is part of the PCV system, and needs to be fixed. You will rev high with a vacuum leak and lean condition if not fixed.

JoshG

^ should circle the location in the picture. would help others as well

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Done

rellrealist

Will it be ok with a quick fix like glue or do I need to replace the entire black box from a junk yard or something new

rellrealist

Can u tell me the name of that part so that I could look it up

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

It's a hemholtz resonator.
Best bet is the junkyard, but for a quick temporary fix I don't see anything wrong with cleaning it up well and adding the best stuff for every toolbox...duct tape.

JEB Davis

My 98 SE had the same plastic nipple broken when I bought it. I glued it with epoxy and it's holding just fine after about 3 weeks of driving in sometimes -10 degree weather. When/if the glue gives up on me, I will do something more permanent!

rellrealist

Cool thanks for all the help guys

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Wow! All we need now is for planecrash to tell us exactly how much horepower that adds... or is it takes away?

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

What did I do?
I didn't say use duct, just duck tape.

bumpypickle

iTrader: (1)

not sure where you live but junkyard is best. Around me, there are 3 or 4 junkyards that have at least 3 4th gens in each yard. Also if your doing oil changes yourself id reccomend buying a new drain bolt off rock auto or any other parts store. good to have a fresh unrounded bolt w/ new seal

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The part is called either Duct Assy-Air or just Air Duct. In the parts book, it is lookup code 16579P, part number 16576-31U17.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/16576p-...-p-128929.html

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

Google hemholtz resonator 95-99 maxima and see what pops up.
I hear you though.
It's good to have people that know the FSM/part numbers as well as you do, but it's known by the other name as well.