98 maxima jerking and shut off
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Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 154
Well guys, I did do the knock sensor and the car isn't doing what I said it was doing. It's fine now. Even I checked all the codes myself and there wasn't an 0102 which is MAF. No knock sensor code now either. Car got faster too than before. Old knock sensor was 200k miles and it's all chewed up. I did take you guys advice and cleaned the MAF. Even if I wasted my time with KS I still want my car perfect. Now one more code to clear 1302 MAP BARO SW solenoid valve. The car has rough idle now. No more new car type idle like before.
Last edited by JLA117; Jan 26, 2015 at 11:35 PM.
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I still want that rough idle out of there. I'm getting p1105 with obd scanner. And when I check manually with screw driver it's 1302. Just one code.
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Here's info on how to determine if you Maxima was built for California.
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...tml#post707273
So how do I tell if my car is Cali or Fed spec?
Raise your hood. Look for a shiny metal identification tag fastened to the passenger side of firewall. The top row is the Vehicle Identification Number, starting with J. The second row is model information. The first five characters are BLHUL. The 12th character is the destination:
N = Canada
V = California
U = US, not California
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...tml#post707273
So how do I tell if my car is Cali or Fed spec?
Raise your hood. Look for a shiny metal identification tag fastened to the passenger side of firewall. The top row is the Vehicle Identification Number, starting with J. The second row is model information. The first five characters are BLHUL. The 12th character is the destination:
N = Canada
V = California
U = US, not California
Sorry it's a "U". Not California
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Posts: 154
The same thing has been happening to me the last couple of days on my '99. I pulled the codes at Autozonoe and got P0160. Possible oxygen sensor defective or system running very rich or lean or the fuel pressure is very high/low.
I replaced the fuel filter and the problem continued a day later (last night). I also had code P0325 which is a knock sensor which would suggest low fuel pressure as well according the the code printout.
I want to know if the knock sensor really did fix this guy's car.
I'm going in later for a diagnostic.
The courtesyparts.com site offered earlier is extremely expensive= $450 for a MAF. Called NAPA and they said $250. Want to be sure i buy the right part so I'm not just replacing parts. I'm curious about everyone who said they replaced the MAF- did you actually see the MAF was defective or did you have a diagnostic run and they said it was the MAF?
I replaced the fuel filter and the problem continued a day later (last night). I also had code P0325 which is a knock sensor which would suggest low fuel pressure as well according the the code printout.
I want to know if the knock sensor really did fix this guy's car.
I'm going in later for a diagnostic.
The courtesyparts.com site offered earlier is extremely expensive= $450 for a MAF. Called NAPA and they said $250. Want to be sure i buy the right part so I'm not just replacing parts. I'm curious about everyone who said they replaced the MAF- did you actually see the MAF was defective or did you have a diagnostic run and they said it was the MAF?
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 3,037
From: Central AR
There are a lot of vacuum hoses in the area where you have been working. I would double check to verify there are no leaking vacuum hoses or hoses that may have been accidentally hooked up incorrectly.
Here's a video on the procedure to test the Map Baro switch. Take a look at the comments posted under the video. I think you will see your codes listed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7eMmzW6zKI
Here's a video on the procedure to test the Map Baro switch. Take a look at the comments posted under the video. I think you will see your codes listed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7eMmzW6zKI
Last edited by CS_AR; Jan 27, 2015 at 04:04 PM.
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There are a lot of vacuum hoses in the area where you have been working. I would double check to verify there are no leaking vacuum hoses or hoses that may have been accidentally hooked up incorrectly.
Here's a video on the procedure to test the Map Baro switch. Take a look at the comments posted under the video. I think you will see your codes listed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7eMmzW6zKI
Here's a video on the procedure to test the Map Baro switch. Take a look at the comments posted under the video. I think you will see your codes listed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7eMmzW6zKI
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 3,037
From: Central AR
Yup, that's the exact video I saw earlier. Both the connector and switch is sparking up so they work. I might have to look at his other one that's related to the issue. Idk how I got that code. Maybe that's my rough idle issue. Autozone said to get a barometric pressure sensor. I'll keep investigating. Everything seems to be connected correctly too (all hoses)
Maybe another member can jump in.
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For MAF, I went to cheap eBay one, I think it was around $50, 4 years already, works just fine, but last time I went to junk yard to pull a front wheel hub, I got a OE MAF too as spare, still in my garage.
Your MAF could be just dirty so before you commit to buy a MAF, try to clean it with CRC MAF cleaner, give it a really good spray, let it dry for 30 minutes before re-install, clear the code and drive for like 200 miles to see if the codes come back.
Your MAF could be just dirty so before you commit to buy a MAF, try to clean it with CRC MAF cleaner, give it a really good spray, let it dry for 30 minutes before re-install, clear the code and drive for like 200 miles to see if the codes come back.
I did read and did clean MAF. There are no hose leaks and everything is connected properly. It is maybe Maf because the code popped up today for it. But still have the 1105 in there as well. Cleaning it didn't do anything. I did the knock sensor just to restore performance and want everything good in my car. It started studdering again today.
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 393
From: Philly Suburb
I did read and did clean MAF. There are no hose leaks and everything is connected properly. It is maybe Maf because the code popped up today for it. But still have the 1105 in there as well. Cleaning it didn't do anything. I did the knock sensor just to restore performance and want everything good in my car. It started studdering again today.
I had the same problem.. Car would shut off and shake and shudder but not always @ 3000 rpm. It started doing this very randomly. It actually would do it more when I'd be on a bumpy road or hit a pothole.. After some research I cleaned my maf, the car ran great for awhile afterwards. Then it started shuddering again. Never threw a code for anything.. Based on the fact that cleaning the maf did make it run better, I picked up an oem maf from the junkyard for $50. Installed it and the car has been fine ever since.
I remembered reading on here that the solder joints inside the maf can go bad. So just for te hell of it, I pried off the square cover on top of the maf and sure enough one of the solder joints was cracked. That little crack was just enough to screw it up when I hit a bump. I touched up the solder joint and re-sealed the square cap with some rvt so I should have a good spare if I need it later..
I'm not saying this is definitely your problem but it sure sounds familiar. When I posted about my problem alot of these guys on here really know their sht about these cars and they pointed me in the right direction. Hopefully you find out what the problem is too..
I think this is the thread I found out about the solder joints in.
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...ml#post7963527
I remembered reading on here that the solder joints inside the maf can go bad. So just for te hell of it, I pried off the square cover on top of the maf and sure enough one of the solder joints was cracked. That little crack was just enough to screw it up when I hit a bump. I touched up the solder joint and re-sealed the square cap with some rvt so I should have a good spare if I need it later..
I'm not saying this is definitely your problem but it sure sounds familiar. When I posted about my problem alot of these guys on here really know their sht about these cars and they pointed me in the right direction. Hopefully you find out what the problem is too..
I think this is the thread I found out about the solder joints in.
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...ml#post7963527
I think this is the thread I found out about the solder joints in.
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...ml#post7963527
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Posts: 3,037
From: Central AR
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