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Planning to replace both valve cover gaskets

Old Feb 1, 2015 | 09:44 PM
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Planning to replace both valve cover gaskets

Just trying to make a list of what I'm going to do while I'm in there and what I will need to replace.

Replace rear/front valve cover gaskets
Replace spark plug gaskets
Replace uim gasket
Replace tb/uim gasket
Replace egr tube gasket
Clean egr tube
Clean tb if needed (did it 2k I'm ago along with plugs)
clean iacv
Replace knock sensor

I think I have a rear exhaust manifold gasket leak so that's what I am really in there for, but I haven't tested to find exactly where the leak is.

If there is any other preventative stuff I should do in there let me know, thnx
Old Feb 1, 2015 | 10:38 PM
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thats a good clean up, knock sensor will improve the cars performance alot.
Old Feb 2, 2015 | 05:20 AM
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In the rare of intake plenum, next to the EGR tube, there is a coolant hose bent to U shape connects to intake plenum, it is very short, like 6" long so I suggest you to buy a 1' hose to replace it will be much easier when you put plenum back.
Old Feb 2, 2015 | 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by theWalkinator
In the rare of intake plenum, next to the EGR tube, there is a coolant hose bent to U shape connects to intake plenum, it is very short, like 6" long so I suggest you to buy a 1' hose to replace it will be much easier when you put plenum back.
Know the size (thickness) of the hoses? I think there's a few that may need replacing in the process, especially the coolant and PCV-related ones. It's good to know and buy beforehand so I was wondering if you knew or if there's a way to tell. Don't think it's in the FSM or Haynes
Old Feb 2, 2015 | 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by uttadms31
Know the size (thickness) of the hoses? I think there's a few that may need replacing in the process, especially the coolant and PCV-related ones. It's good to know and buy beforehand so I was wondering if you knew or if there's a way to tell. Don't think it's in the FSM or Haynes
I am not sure about the size, probably 3/4", what I did was took the old hose to Autozone, they matched up for me. The hose that bridges between two valve cover is probably need to be replaced too, mine it hardened and cracked at two ends.
Old Feb 2, 2015 | 10:43 AM
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Replace or by-pass that U-shaped coolant hose. If you replace it, get new worm drive hose clamps. Its probably a 5/16" id or so. Or better yet just order one from your dealer. You will need a tube a sealant if you don't have one, for the corners of the VC gaskets. Go long on the throttle body/carb cleaner spray as there always seems to be more things to tidy up once everything is exposed. Its not a hard job just a lot of disassembly to get to everything. Search on here or how-to's, Youboob, and of course the FSM. Follow the torque settings and pattern.
Old Feb 2, 2015 | 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by M in KC
Replace or by-pass that U-shaped coolant hose. If you replace it, get new worm drive hose clamps. Its probably a 5/16" id or so. Or better yet just order one from your dealer. You will need a tube a sealant if you don't have one, for the corners of the VC gaskets. Go long on the throttle body/carb cleaner spray as there always seems to be more things to tidy up once everything is exposed. Its not a hard job just a lot of disassembly to get to everything. Search on here or how-to's, Youboob, and of course the FSM. Follow the torque settings and pattern.
ok man thanks. just a couple related things:

1) I do plan on cleaning the throttle body since it's easy, but is it necessary to clean the IAVC or replace the gasket on that or the throttle body if I'm not pulling any codes? (235k miles)

2) As for the EGR tube, can I just clean it with spray and a wire brush with the top exposed and sitting up after intake manifold removal, or do I have to remove it from the bolts at the bottom also to clean?
Old Feb 2, 2015 | 12:01 PM
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1) I do plan on cleaning the throttle body since it's easy, but is it necessary to clean the IAVC or replace the gasket on that or the throttle body if I'm not pulling any codes? (235k miles)
You'd better clean IAVC too, it has metal gasket so usually you don't need to replace the IAVC gasket, but TB gasket is made of paper so I would replace it.

2) As for the EGR tube, can I just clean it with spray and a wire brush with the top exposed and sitting up after intake manifold removal, or do I have to remove it from the bolts at the bottom also to clean?
I don't think it is easily to clean EGR tube without taking it off, it has a shape bent and if it is clogged pretty badly, if you just try to clean it from top port, the gunk would fall down know know where so I would remove tube out, you need saw cut one bolt to take the tube out, and you also need EGR tube gaskets, two of them, top and bottom gasket are different.
Old Feb 2, 2015 | 12:40 PM
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So I am looking at the parts I'm going to need and there are 3 intake gaskets not including the tb gasket.

One is the one w 6 intake holes and then there are two with 3 holes. What are they for?

Btw this is going to take me all day, yeah?
Old Feb 2, 2015 | 07:01 PM
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Also looks like my timing chain cover gasket is leaking? How hard is that to replace?
Old Feb 2, 2015 | 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Jramrod
So I am looking at the parts I'm going to need and there are 3 intake gaskets not including the tb gasket.

One is the one w 6 intake holes and then there are two with 3 holes. What are they for?

Btw this is going to take me all day, yeah?
The big gasket sits between your upper intake manifold and your lower, while the two smaller gaskets go between your lower intake and the rest of the engine. You wont be dealing with the lower, so the only gasket you might need is the large 6 hole one. IIRC, its pretty beefy and i dont think i even had to replace mine when i did this (did anyways because i had the new gasket).

This is certainly an all day job. It really depends how mechanically inclined you are and having the right tools/materials. Its really not hard at all, as long as you stay organized and make sure you keep note on what hoses go where.

Also, read your instructions twice. I snapped a valve cover bolt like an idiot by over-torquing it; i misread the required torque setting as 15 footpounds rather than the far less tight 15 INCHpounds. This resulted in much frustation as i had to expediate ship a new bolt and extract the broken one - which all could have been avoided if i wasnt rushing to get it done. Take things slowly and surely or youll be bound to botch something and have to do the job twice.

Good luck!
Old Feb 2, 2015 | 08:06 PM
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^+1, you don't need to take off lower manifold, unless you want to replace knock sensor that way but you can replace knock sensor without needing to take lower intake manifold off. Gasket between upper and lower intake manifolds , the 6 hole one, is metal gasket you don't really need to replace, you can just reuse it, that was what I did.
Old Feb 2, 2015 | 09:12 PM
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Thnx for the info guys.

Well shoot, now I'm thinking that if I am down there around the steel oil pan to do the timing case, I may as well replace the seal for the upper oil pan and lower oil pan and possibly the rear main. I looked under my car and there is quite of bit of oil that has leaked down around my oil filter. I want to eliminate any area which could be producing leaks.

I don't ever want to have to do this again lol but shoot imagine how much all this would cost at a shop

Also cam seals should probably be done with timing case off along with TC tensioner and guide

Man, this is one of those "how deep does the rabbit hole go?" jobs

also: appreciate the info thus far, but are the erg tube gaskets the same P# ?


edit: nvm I would rather deal with a leak than do the rms along with all this other chit. Matter of fact after looking at all this I may just do the exhaust leak and the stuff I initially set out to do. I will deal with the timing cover and oil pan leaks later. I assume it both bc there is a ton of oil under my car

Last edited by Jramrod; Feb 2, 2015 at 10:07 PM.
Old Feb 3, 2015 | 01:06 AM
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I've been using Felpro brand gaskets for years. The last set I purchased came with a small tube of RTV for the corners of the VC gasket. Follow the FSM for RTV use.

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You can see the Knock Sensor in the picture above. I use a 1/4 inch drive socket with a 10" extension and a 1/4 inch drive U (wobble) joint to reach under the intake manifold to remove the KS bolt. I got someone with small hands to reach under the intake to reinstall the KS bolt.

I like to soak the EGR tube in carb cleaner to remove carbon deposits.

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Like many on here, I bypassed the intake plenum coolant line U-shaped hose. I've also used a longer hose as suggested earlier in this thread by The Walkinator.

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Last edited by CS_AR; Feb 5, 2015 at 05:03 AM.
Old Feb 3, 2015 | 01:31 AM
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while all that is off. take a good look at all the vacuum hoses that are in the area.
easy to replace them while all that stuff is off.
Old Feb 3, 2015 | 04:27 AM
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If you are going to take timing cover off, you'd better also consider to replace water pump, or the 2 water pump O-rings, they tend to leak coolant.
Old Feb 3, 2015 | 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by CS_AR
I've been using Felpro brand gaskets for years. The last set I purchased came with a small tube of RTV for the corners of the VC gasket. Follow the FSM for RTV use.

[IG]http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll116/RidgelineCS/Nissan/Maxima/1999/Felpro_Gaskets/FelPro_Gasket1_zps58c4425a.jpg[/IMG]

You can see the Knock Sensor in the picture above. I use a 1/4 inch drive socket with a 10" extension and a 1/4 inch drive U (wobble) joint to reach under the intake manifold to remove the KS bolt. I get someone with small hands to reach under the intake to reinstall the KS bolt.

I like to soak the EGR tube in carb cleaner to remove carbon deposits.

[IG]http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll116/RidgelineCS/Nissan/Maxima/1999/EGR/EGR_01_zps8900d72c.jpg[/IMG]

[IG]http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll116/RidgelineCS/Nissan/Maxima/1999/EGR/EGR_04_zps47fc578d.jpg[/IMG]

Like many on here, I bypassed the intake plenum coolant line U-shaped hose. I've also used a longer hose as suggested earlier in this thread by The Walkinator.

[IG]http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll116/RidgelineCS/Nissan/Maxima/1999/EGR/EGR_01_zps8900d72c.jpg[/IMG]

[IG]http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll116/RidgelineCS/Nissan/Maxima/1999/EGR/EGR_03_zpsd9a7dd6f.jpg[/IMG]
Wow thnx man, that is very helpful

Originally Posted by flynlr
while all that is off. take a good look at all the vacuum hoses that are in the area.
easy to replace them while all that stuff is off.
Will do

Originally Posted by theWalkinator
If you are going to take timing cover off, you'd better also consider to replace water pump, or the 2 water pump O-rings, they tend to leak coolant.
Dually noted but I think I really am going to wait until the future to deal with my oil leaks

Last edited by Jramrod; Feb 3, 2015 at 09:19 AM.
Old Feb 3, 2015 | 09:45 AM
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A few related things.. thanks! I'm doing this stuff in the process of replacing a rear valve cover gasket
1) Aside from emissions/state inspection issues, will not cleaning the EGR tube affect power/performance/fuel economy? I have no codes for this yet at 235k miles and hope to avoid issues with the bolts, sawing, etc.

2) Can the throttle body and/or IAVC be cleaned with MAF cleaner?

3) Do I have to adjust IAVC/idle speed after this job, even if I had no idle problems before?

Last edited by uttadms31; Feb 3, 2015 at 10:05 AM.
Old Feb 3, 2015 | 10:12 AM
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1) Aside from emissions/state inspection issues, will not cleaning the EGR tube affect power/performance/fuel economy? I have no codes for this yet at 235k miles and hope to avoid issues with the bolts, sawing, etc.
Clogged EGR tube will reduce engine performance, increase fuel consumption, develop hesitation and even worse, stall when come to a stop.

2) Can the throttle body and/or IAVC be cleaned with MAF cleaner?
Use carb cleaner.

3) Do I have to adjust IAVC/idle speed after this job, even if I had no idle problems before?
You usually don't to if idle at around 650rpm at normal operating temperature.

Last edited by theWalkinator; Feb 3, 2015 at 10:25 AM.
Old Feb 3, 2015 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by uttadms31
A few related things.. thanks! I'm doing this stuff in the process of replacing a rear valve cover gasket
1) Aside from emissions/state inspection issues, will not cleaning the EGR tube affect power/performance/fuel economy? I have no codes for this yet at 235k miles and hope to avoid issues with the bolts, sawing, etc.
i have completely deleted egr system on two of my maximas and never experienced any issues outta either car
Old Feb 3, 2015 | 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by luke95gxe
i have completely deleted egr system on two of my maximas and never experienced any issues outta either car
Idk if that would work with CA emissions though.

So the newest development ofter having it tested for exhaust leaks is that my egr tube is not even mounted into my intake manifold. its just sitting there not screwed in. So thats the noise I've been hearing. I am going to go through and do all this and fix it in the process.

Replace rear/front valve cover gaskets
Replace spark plug grommets
Replace tb/uim gasket
Replace egr tube gaskets
Clean egr tube
Clean tb if needed (did it 2k ago along with plugs)
clean iacv (replace gasket)
Replace knock sensor

I know which gasket I need for the top of the egr tube but what about the bottom?
Old Feb 3, 2015 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by luke95gxe
i have completely deleted egr system on two of my maximas and never experienced any issues outta either car
That's what I am confused about...some people say it affects drivability/stalling and fuel economy, while others say it's just emissions related?? I don't get tested for emissions where I live, and my mechanic doesn't really care about a CEL during inspections
Old Feb 3, 2015 | 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Jramrod
Idk if that would work with CA emissions though.

So the newest development ofter having it tested for exhaust leaks is that my egr tube is not even mounted into my intake manifold. its just sitting there not screwed in. So thats the noise I've been hearing. I am going to go through and do all this and fix it in the process.
Originally Posted by uttadms31
That's what I am confused about...some people say it affects drivability/stalling and fuel economy, while others say it's just emissions related?? I don't get tested for emissions where I live, and my mechanic doesn't really care about a CEL during inspections
it is just emissions related and to keep from having codes just keep the two egr sensors plugged in
Old Feb 3, 2015 | 07:01 PM
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I have a code for EGR and knock sensor, and as far as i know, the car does hesitate when accelerating sometimes, NO stalls at all at stops, sometimes does stay at 1.5k rpm for 15-20 secs even when pressing on the gas pedal as if something was clogged up(hence EGR). I can rev to 4.5k rpm from a complete stop sometimes, so i mean I can't really tell if its my EGR causing it or knock sensor.. but im sure both of them reduce performance. I only got 134k miles so..

I'm getting it fixed soon though. I want to see what its results are afterwards.
Old Feb 3, 2015 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by JoshG
I have a code for EGR and knock sensor, and as far as i know, the car does hesitate when accelerating sometimes, NO stalls at all at stops, sometimes does stay at 1.5k rpm for 15-20 secs even when pressing on the gas pedal as if something was clogged up(hence EGR). I can rev to 4.5k rpm from a complete stop sometimes, so i mean I can't really tell if its my EGR causing it or knock sensor.. but im sure both of them reduce performance. I only got 134k miles so..

I'm getting it fixed soon though. I want to see what its results are afterwards.
I got multiple codes, MAF, O2 sensor, EGR and misfire codes, and yes, knock sensor code as well, so my car had hesitation and stalled on stop sign/traffic lights, horrible fuel economy, lost power, etc. I cleaned MAF, replaced O2 sensor, replaced 1 ignition coil, cleaned EGR tube (was pretty much clogged up), cleaned TB and IACV, replaced knock sensor.
Old Feb 3, 2015 | 07:38 PM
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It was interesting bc the guy who tested my exhaust system said that as long as you aren't getting any erg codes its not going to affect performance. Idk if I believe that, but it was an interesting perspective

Just ordered these parts plus an IACV gasket which I had to order through my nissan dealer\

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Last edited by Jramrod; Feb 3, 2015 at 07:43 PM.
Old Feb 4, 2015 | 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by theWalkinator
I got multiple codes, MAF, O2 sensor, EGR and misfire codes, and yes, knock sensor code as well, so my car had hesitation and stalled on stop sign/traffic lights, horrible fuel economy, lost power, etc. I cleaned MAF, replaced O2 sensor, replaced 1 ignition coil, cleaned EGR tube (was pretty much clogged up), cleaned TB and IACV, replaced knock sensor.
what was its results afterwards? how did the car run before and after.
Old Feb 4, 2015 | 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Jramrod
It was interesting bc the guy who tested my exhaust system said that as long as you aren't getting any erg codes its not going to affect performance. Idk if I believe that, but it was an interesting perspective

Just ordered these parts plus an IACV gasket which I had to order through my nissan dealer\

those are some cheap parts from the dealer especially.. its OEM which is good, but damn the knock sensor brought it up quite alot lol, but im sure that OEM knock sensor will last you for as long as you can remember compared to the cheap ebay knock sensors.
Old Feb 4, 2015 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by JoshG
those are some cheap parts from the dealer especially.. its OEM which is good, but damn the knock sensor brought it up quite alot lol, but im sure that OEM knock sensor will last you for as long as you can remember compared to the cheap ebay knock sensors.
Well this order was from rock auto, but the knock sensor is a direct oem replacement, not sure about the gaskets though.

I am also going to need to purchase a torque wrench. Just to double check I think everything I am working on will be in "in. lbs" but correct me if I am wrong

Last edited by Jramrod; Feb 4, 2015 at 10:39 AM.
Old Feb 4, 2015 | 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by JoshG
what was its results afterwards? how did the car run before and after.
Runs a lot better after everything was sorted out, no hesitation, stall, misfire anymore, power restored to it should be. I consider this as a major tune-up (is it called Italian tune-up?) along with changing spark plugs and valve cover gasket replacement if you car is high mileage one, even you don't have codes or detectable performance degrade.
Old Feb 4, 2015 | 10:52 AM
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sometimes all it takes is one major tune up for a nice running car again after all those miles.
Old Feb 4, 2015 | 08:20 PM
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Question on cleaning the IACV. After a lot of research using the Search function I've seen people make matters worse by cleaning it (or is this just a problem on 5th gens?) I have 235k miles on mine, no related codes, just doing all this to replace a bad valve cover gasket leak so I don't know if it's worth it to fool around with the IACV - taking apart to clean.
Old Feb 4, 2015 | 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by uttadms31
Question on cleaning the IACV. After a lot of research using the Search function I've seen people make matters worse by cleaning it (or is this just a problem on 5th gens?) I have 235k miles on mine, no related codes, just doing all this to replace a bad valve cover gasket leak so I don't know if it's worth it to fool around with the IACV - taking apart to clean.
In for answers

Also do you need to disassemble the iacv to clean it properly? i.e. take the 3 screws out and remove that small plate?
Old Feb 5, 2015 | 04:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Jramrod
In for answers

Also do you need to disassemble the iacv to clean it properly? i.e. take the 3 screws out and remove that small plate?
Since cleaning IACV was part of my overall tune-up, I cannot tell it alone made any improvement, but certainly did not make matters worse.

Yes, disassemble it for a good cleaning.
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