Motor finally blew at 397k miles
#1
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Motor finally blew at 397k miles
I drove the hell out of this car for the 15 years I've owned it. At this point in time, it has been my DD day in and day out. I also would take it on road trips.
Recently the timing chain started rattling more and more so I knew something was going to happen. I was cruising at 70 mph from work tonight and I was listening to my headphones and the car jerked a couple times. I'm thinking, "WTF was that?" Turn off the music and I hear a loud tapping under the hood while I'm cruising. I pull off the highway to see what's going on and the car just shut down. I was about 20 miles from home so I said "F it. If I'm going to have to get this thing towed, then it's I'm going to get what's left of this engine. She got me 4 miles from home and it started rapping louder and I was losing power.Then, the chain broke and I saw smoke afterward. Wouldn't start back up after.
I solute this engine since it has done it's job and did it damn well without a problem for so many years. I'm going to drop another motor into it so I'll need some recommendations from some of you knowledgeable folks here. The tow truck driver told me to order an engine from Japan Direct but their page is having problems. After finding a motor, I'll need a good installer who's local to the Raleigh Durham area.
Recently the timing chain started rattling more and more so I knew something was going to happen. I was cruising at 70 mph from work tonight and I was listening to my headphones and the car jerked a couple times. I'm thinking, "WTF was that?" Turn off the music and I hear a loud tapping under the hood while I'm cruising. I pull off the highway to see what's going on and the car just shut down. I was about 20 miles from home so I said "F it. If I'm going to have to get this thing towed, then it's I'm going to get what's left of this engine. She got me 4 miles from home and it started rapping louder and I was losing power.Then, the chain broke and I saw smoke afterward. Wouldn't start back up after.
I solute this engine since it has done it's job and did it damn well without a problem for so many years. I'm going to drop another motor into it so I'll need some recommendations from some of you knowledgeable folks here. The tow truck driver told me to order an engine from Japan Direct but their page is having problems. After finding a motor, I'll need a good installer who's local to the Raleigh Durham area.
#5
good news for me!!! i only have 266,000 on mine so another 130,000 would be sweet!!! glad to hear your keeping her, new motor you say??? easy, 4-500 bux for a low mileage motor no problem.
#6
Damn! 397k, that engine served you well, +2 for 3.5 swap, there should be plenty 5th gen Max in your local junk yard or just move on to 2002 ~2003 Max. Mine is almost 200K and the engine is still going strong and it will outlast the body!
#7
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Yeah, everything inside the engine was original. IMO, it's still good to know the timing chain ended up being the problem and nothing inside the engine gave up.
I don't know if I want to do the 3.5 swap because I don't have the time and I don't want to have to piece everything together in order for things to work right.
I don't know if I want to do the 3.5 swap because I don't have the time and I don't want to have to piece everything together in order for things to work right.
#9
If you want simple then just throw another 3.0 in man. I had my 97 maxima 17 years had about 155,000 miles on my 3.0 never had issues until I installed the SCrg and got a lousy tune which blew my Pistons seals. Smh
I'm going with a 3.5 swap though cause I wanted more power for boost and found a 3.5 already on 3.0 timing for cheap. Good luck.
I'm going with a 3.5 swap though cause I wanted more power for boost and found a 3.5 already on 3.0 timing for cheap. Good luck.
#10
Congrats man on going that long. I'm at 236k still on original tranny hoping to get to 300k at least. How many trannys did you go through? Any original parts still in it like power steering pump, water pump, or fuel pump?
#11
If your looking for an experienced person to do swap for you in NC, this is who I would recommend: https://www.facebook.com/Max4DSC. Not sure if he is on the org. Idk how far Burlington is from you, but I would say it's worth the trip for quality. Also, he may be able to help you source the swap parts.
#12
I drove the hell out of this car for the 15 years I've owned it. At this point in time, it has been my DD day in and day out. I also would take it on road trips.
Recently the timing chain started rattling more and more so I knew something was going to happen. I was cruising at 70 mph from work tonight and I was listening to my headphones and the car jerked a couple times. I'm thinking, "WTF was that?" Turn off the music and I hear a loud tapping under the hood while I'm cruising. I pull off the highway to see what's going on and the car just shut down. I was about 20 miles from home so I said "F it. If I'm going to have to get this thing towed, then it's I'm going to get what's left of this engine. She got me 4 miles from home and it started rapping louder and I was losing power.Then, the chain broke and I saw smoke afterward. Wouldn't start back up after.
I solute this engine since it has done it's job and did it damn well without a problem for so many years. I'm going to drop another motor into it so I'll need some recommendations from some of you knowledgeable folks here. The tow truck driver told me to order an engine from Japan Direct but their page is having problems. After finding a motor, I'll need a good installer who's local to the Raleigh Durham area.
Recently the timing chain started rattling more and more so I knew something was going to happen. I was cruising at 70 mph from work tonight and I was listening to my headphones and the car jerked a couple times. I'm thinking, "WTF was that?" Turn off the music and I hear a loud tapping under the hood while I'm cruising. I pull off the highway to see what's going on and the car just shut down. I was about 20 miles from home so I said "F it. If I'm going to have to get this thing towed, then it's I'm going to get what's left of this engine. She got me 4 miles from home and it started rapping louder and I was losing power.Then, the chain broke and I saw smoke afterward. Wouldn't start back up after.
I solute this engine since it has done it's job and did it damn well without a problem for so many years. I'm going to drop another motor into it so I'll need some recommendations from some of you knowledgeable folks here. The tow truck driver told me to order an engine from Japan Direct but their page is having problems. After finding a motor, I'll need a good installer who's local to the Raleigh Durham area.
My suggestion would be go on Car-part, find a normal 02-08 VQ35 less 100k on it. Pathy TB drilled cams(NO ADAPTERS) and spacers and your set. Only other thing you will need to buy is a need an IACV adapter. Most of the parts you will need are timing related parts which is what broke on your old motor. In fact most of the parts you would need i have sitting here collecting dust.
The only thing i dont know is the auto trans, never had to work on a 4th gen auto
Last edited by Crusher103; 02-05-2015 at 09:25 AM.
#14
#16
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I can help you install. I think im the only person that is generally local. Its not hard i have a hoist and everything else. I honestly wouldn't bother looking outside of our local JY in NC unless you are looking for a motor to do a build on.
My suggestion would be go on Car-part, find a normal 02-08 VQ35 less 100k on it. Pathy TB drilled cams(NO ADAPTERS) and spacers and your set. Only other thing you will need to buy is a need an IACV adapter. Most of the parts you will need are timing related parts which is what broke on your old motor. In fact most of the parts you would need i have sitting here collecting dust.
The only thing i dont know is the auto trans, never had to work on a 4th gen auto
My suggestion would be go on Car-part, find a normal 02-08 VQ35 less 100k on it. Pathy TB drilled cams(NO ADAPTERS) and spacers and your set. Only other thing you will need to buy is a need an IACV adapter. Most of the parts you will need are timing related parts which is what broke on your old motor. In fact most of the parts you would need i have sitting here collecting dust.
The only thing i dont know is the auto trans, never had to work on a 4th gen auto
TBH, I'd love to have a 3.5 put in this thing because I like the way it would drive with my suspension setup. I just have a lot going on where I can't do a huge job like this now. I'd like to get this car back on the road in the next couple months.
#17
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If your looking for an experienced person to do swap for you in NC, this is who I would recommend: https://www.facebook.com/Max4DSC. Not sure if he is on the org. Idk how far Burlington is from you, but I would say it's worth the trip for quality. Also, he may be able to help you source the swap parts.
#20
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If you want simple then just throw another 3.0 in man. I had my 97 maxima 17 years had about 155,000 miles on my 3.0 never had issues until I installed the SCrg and got a lousy tune which blew my Pistons seals. Smh
I'm going with a 3.5 swap though cause I wanted more power for boost and found a 3.5 already on 3.0 timing for cheap. Good luck.
I'm going with a 3.5 swap though cause I wanted more power for boost and found a 3.5 already on 3.0 timing for cheap. Good luck.
#21
#23
#26
Yup.
I've got no leaks and no burning. 128k+
I like the 3.5. It's not definite that the motor will burn oil, and I don't think it's usually too big of a deal for those who do have some burning. Not like you ever see people swapping down to the 3.0
I've got no leaks and no burning. 128k+
I like the 3.5. It's not definite that the motor will burn oil, and I don't think it's usually too big of a deal for those who do have some burning. Not like you ever see people swapping down to the 3.0
Last edited by Cotozic; 02-05-2015 at 10:32 PM.
#27
well, to be fair here all 3.0's have the timing chain issue, ( at least in my experience ) at a certain mileage due to plastic guides. my max has had a "rattle" since i bought her almost 10 years ago with 129,000 on her and now at 266,000 it rattles especially louder in the colder, but also warmer weather. after she warms up she usually quiets down and runs right.
#28
No it's not an "idiotic" statement even the new vq's burn oil
http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...nsumption.html
http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...nsumption.html
Last edited by TurboA32; 02-06-2015 at 12:53 AM.
#29
For your sake keep doing what your doing
#31
No it's not an "idiotic" statement even the new vq's burn oil
http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...nsumption.html
http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...nsumption.html
Speaking in absolutes is not a good idea.
Last edited by asand1; 02-06-2015 at 04:11 AM.
#32
If you're going to go vq35, get one from an 08+ altima or 09+ Maxima. So much to be said about the late vq35's and it wouldn't be much more work to get running in your car over an 02-07 vq35.
Congrats on getting that many miles though, too often I see cars in the junkyard with <150k
Congrats on getting that many miles though, too often I see cars in the junkyard with <150k
#34
How's the condition of the body?
Given your use I would just throw in another DE and call it a day (maybe DE-K/MEVI). The original engine brought you to this mileage and I can't imagine much more power for this chassis. A decked out 4G still handles just a little worse than a shopping cart with one bad wheel.
You have the G8 anyway
Given your use I would just throw in another DE and call it a day (maybe DE-K/MEVI). The original engine brought you to this mileage and I can't imagine much more power for this chassis. A decked out 4G still handles just a little worse than a shopping cart with one bad wheel.
You have the G8 anyway
#35
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How's the condition of the body?
Given your use I would just throw in another DE and call it a day (maybe DE-K/MEVI). The original engine brought you to this mileage and I can't imagine much more power for this chassis. A decked out 4G still handles just a little worse than a shopping cart with one bad wheel.
Given your use I would just throw in another DE and call it a day (maybe DE-K/MEVI). The original engine brought you to this mileage and I can't imagine much more power for this chassis. A decked out 4G still handles just a little worse than a shopping cart with one bad wheel.
H&Rs and Illuminas are still good. I love the way this car drives with my suspension setup and the 3.5 would definitely enhance everything else I still like about driving this car.
You have the G8 anyway
#36
No it's not an "idiotic" statement even the new vq's burn oil
http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...nsumption.html
http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...nsumption.html
This. To all of those post.
1st. The excessive oil consumption has been tracked back down to the Cats and precats breaking up and being sucked back into the combustion chamber and damaging the rings. A compression check and leak down test will determine if you have a ring problem.
2nd. Most of the 370s issues are being caused by improper break in. But the same cheap cat issue that has plagued nissans since the 5th gen persists. There are plenty of VQ35 on this site that do not burn excessive oil. I know quite a few Z/G owners, no oil consumption issues.
3rd. You do realize how many VQ35 are on the road right now right? ALL OF THEM burning oil? Not one slipped through the oil burning net? Because i dunno i seem to have a VQ35 that doesn't burn oil, i know at least 10 people with non oil burning 3.5s....This is the same argument people say about mitsu 4g63 and crank walk, 2% of all motors are effected but people blow it WAY out of proportion.
Now unless you meant all engines period burn a little bit of oil because thats just normal operation then i retract my statement, 1/2qt with in oil change intervals is acceptable and perfectly normal in any car.
If you're going to go vq35, get one from an 08+ altima or 09+ Maxima. So much to be said about the late vq35's and it wouldn't be much more work to get running in your car over an 02-07 vq35.
Congrats on getting that many miles though, too often I see cars in the junkyard with <150k
Congrats on getting that many miles though, too often I see cars in the junkyard with <150k
I have one in my 4th gen and it is a little more complicated then the simple 1st gen VQ35. He would have to work out how he is going to get his cams to work, its much different from the original 3.5 swap, and the throttle body in itself is a nightmare of customization.
The reason i said 1st gen VQ35 is because, his car is a daily driver. He can get a more reliable motor with less miles for not a lot more money and keep everything he is used too.
#37
when i had my 3rd gen max, the same thing happened to my timing chain. The rattle was so loud, it sounded like a helicopter lol.
Sorry about the car deezo. The easiest thing to do is to swap in another 3.0. But u already know that so no need to beat a dead horse.
And not every 3.5 VQ burns oil.
Sorry about the car deezo. The easiest thing to do is to swap in another 3.0. But u already know that so no need to beat a dead horse.
And not every 3.5 VQ burns oil.
#38
If I were you and plan on putting a 3.5 in your car and don't plan on removing it for as long as you have the car I would rebuild it with ARP rod bolts, ACL bearing, HR headgasket, HR headbolts, REV-UP oil pump, new main tensioner/guide, Nippon piston rings and new water pump seals and valve stem seals. There's obviously some people who like the 3.5 but you can't ignore the obvious issues it has just my .02
#39
If I were you and plan on putting a 3.5 in your car and don't plan on removing it for as long as you have the car I would rebuild it with ARP rod bolts, ACL bearing, HR headgasket, HR headbolts, REV-UP oil pump, new main tensioner/guide, Nippon piston rings and new water pump seals and valve stem seals. There's obviously some people who like the 3.5 but you can't ignore the obvious issues it has just my .02