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Looks like your strike rod seal has gone bad. Also looks like your transmission has been rebuilt previously judging by the red RTV - I strongly suspect that the vast majority of rebuild shops don't bother replacing the strike rod seal, even though it's cheap and real easy to replace.
You can do it all still on the car in 10 minutes (unless you have to fight rust). All you need to do is move the strike rod boot out of the way to reveal the pin that holds the shift linkage onto the strike rod. Tap the pin out with a punch or anything else you can find that fits, and then pull off the yoke assembly. Yours seems rusty so it may take some effort to remove - I once had a Maxima from Pennsylvania that was rusty and it was a major hassle to remove it on mine, but with enough PB Blaster and twisting back and forth I was able to work it off.
Anyway, once you get the yoke assembly off, you'll be left with this. This is the new strike rod seal I installed with my recent transmission rebuild:
The old one can be tapped right out, and the new one tapped right in. It kind of "wedges" in - so tap it in until it feels like it's bottomed out. I strongly recommend an OEM one though it is available in the aftermarket (I got sent an aftermarket one with my rebuild kit from American Powertrain Warehouse). The OEM one is part number 3285803E00, same for all Maximas 1985-2002, and it's only about $7-8. Good luck.
Looks like your strike rod seal has gone bad. Also looks like your transmission has been rebuilt previously judging by the red RTV - I strongly suspect that the vast majority of rebuild shops don't bother replacing the strike rod seal, even though it's cheap and real easy to replace.
You can do it all still on the car in 10 minutes (unless you have to fight rust). All you need to do is move the strike rod boot out of the way to reveal the pin that holds the shift linkage onto the strike rod. Tap the pin out with a punch or anything else you can find that fits, and then pull off the yoke assembly. Yours seems rusty so it may take some effort to remove - I once had a Maxima from Pennsylvania that was rusty and it was a major hassle to remove it on mine, but with enough PB Blaster and twisting back and forth I was able to work it off.
Anyway, once you get the yoke assembly off, you'll be left with this. This is the new strike rod seal I installed with my recent transmission rebuild:
The old one can be tapped right out, and the new one tapped right in. It kind of "wedges" in - so tap it in until it feels like it's bottomed out. I strongly recommend an OEM one though it is available in the aftermarket (I got sent an aftermarket one with my rebuild kit from American Powertrain Warehouse). The OEM one is part number 3285803E00, same for all Maximas 1985-2002, and it's only about $7-8. Good luck.
Does anyone know what the Autozone or O'Reilly parts number and name are for this striking rod seal?
I'm having a heck of a time finding the parts store equivalent because no one's sure if it's the same part as Nissan's 30401G (Striking Rod Oil Seal). The names are different at the parts stores and Nissan says it's a special order part and costs nearly 4 times as much as the parts stores, assuming I have the right part from the parts store.
Not sure if this will help but.... https://www.transmissionpartsdistrib...-85-01-gsk182/
this is a link to a seal kit I purchased when I rebuild my 5 speed. Also here's a screenshot from the FSM about removing that seal...I can also send you the whole Manual Trans FSM if you want.
Not sure if this will help but.... https://www.transmissionpartsdistrib...-85-01-gsk182/
this is a link to a seal kit I purchased when I rebuild my 5 speed. Also here's a screenshot from the FSM about removing that seal...I can also send you the whole Manual Trans FSM if you want.
Hey, thanks! Always good to have a visual step-by-step to see what's involved.
11-11-2015, 08:47 AM
