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So before I get yelled at for posting, haha I searched and found several very useful threads on removing the injectors as well as removing the PITA intake. So I got everything done, but my question is this.
Is is ok to use different manufactures of injectors in there? Reason, ran to my local store (Pep Boys, uughh) they said online they had all 3. Get there and they only had 2. I called another store a bit further away and they have a brand called GB ?? So is it ok to have 2 Borg Warners and one GB?
I assume it is because an injector made for our 95 maxima will or should be the same. Someone had mentioned to me I shouldn't do this.
thanks for your input.
Most members say that original equipment ones are the best.
They are made by Hanshin or Hitachi
Now while you are in there anyway, you should consider having the rest of them ,perhaps all of them, rebuilt professionally.
The others will fail soon if you dont. You really don't want to do this again, do you? I was happy with the work done by Injector RX in Houston. They charge 18 bucks per injector. They have fast turn around time.
Also replace the fuel line hose. You don't want leaks in the future.
The heater hoses should be replaced as well. They are a pita to change when the intake manifold is on.
The knock sensor is easy to replace now. Check for cracks.
The egr tube is easier to clean out now than later.
And while the manifold is off, clean the iacv and the throttle body.
I imagine that my list is more involved than you might want to deal with, but you will save yourself a lot of work and grief in the future if you just do it to it.
The best brands to get are Bosch, Beck/Arnley (new), and Hitachi. All three are the same OE part.
Just a warning though: the O-rings are NOT included, so you have to buy them separately. I recommend Beck/Arnley o-rings (you'll need a package for each injector).
Most members say that original equipment ones are the best.
They are made by Hanshin or Hitachi
Now while you are in there anyway, you should consider having the rest of them ,perhaps all of them, rebuilt professionally.
The others will fail soon if you dont. You really don't want to do this again, do you? I was happy with the work done by Injector RX in Houston. They charge 18 bucks per injector. They have fast turn around time.
Also replace the fuel line hose. You don't want leaks in the future.
The heater hoses should be replaced as well. They are a pita to change when the intake manifold is on.
The knock sensor is easy to replace now. Check for cracks.
The egr tube is easier to clean out now than later.
And while the manifold is off, clean the iacv and the throttle body.
I imagine that my list is more involved than you might want to deal with, but you will save yourself a lot of work and grief in the future if you just do it to it.
Holy smokes, I thought I was almost done with this job until I read your post. I will look into these things tmrw. I have to run back to Pep Boys as they will get my 3rd injector in tmrw. I wish I had known the brands that were better before making the purchase and installing 2 of them. As for the 3 under the intake, I am def changing all 3 because I def do not want to do this again, hahah a royal PITA.
Thanks JVG for all your info and suggestions, will take them highly into consideration now, especially since the intake is off.
The best brands to get are Bosch, Beck/Arnley (new), and Hitachi. All three are the same OE part.
Just a warning though: the O-rings are NOT included, so you have to buy them separately. I recommend Beck/Arnley o-rings (you'll need a package for each injector).
I saw that in another post on there somewhere when doing my search. But when I checked the Borg Warners they actually came with the rings which I was a little surprise, happy but shocked. One less thing I needed to buy.... until I read the above post, lol.
Most members say that original equipment ones are the best.
They are made by Hanshin or Hitachi
Now while you are in there anyway, you should consider having the rest of them ,perhaps all of them, rebuilt professionally.
The others will fail soon if you dont. You really don't want to do this again, do you? I was happy with the work done by Injector RX in Houston. They charge 18 bucks per injector. They have fast turn around time.
Also replace the fuel line hose. You don't want leaks in the future.
The heater hoses should be replaced as well. They are a pita to change when the intake manifold is on.
The knock sensor is easy to replace now. Check for cracks.
The egr tube is easier to clean out now than later.
And while the manifold is off, clean the iacv and the throttle body.
I imagine that my list is more involved than you might want to deal with, but you will save yourself a lot of work and grief in the future if you just do it to it.
You're thinking of the coilpacks when you say Hansin or Hitachi. The injectors are made by JECS.
The KS may be easier to replace now, assuming he's willing to remove the LIM and fuel rail.....then retorque everything to spec and in the correct sequence. The KS is easy enough on a 95 to do at any time, I wouldn't remove the LIM etc for this task.
You're thinking of the coilpacks when you say Hansin or Hitachi. The injectors are made by JECS.
The KS may be easier to replace now, assuming he's willing to remove the LIM and fuel rail.....then retorque everything to spec and in the correct sequence. The KS is easy enough on a 95 to do at any time, I wouldn't remove the LIM etc for this task.
I did a search on the forum and it doesn't look all that hard, I may be wrong but I won't know till morning when I get back working on it. If it's easy I can def check it out. But Autozone sells them for 114, and amazon sells it for 10, WTH is the difference? I found a post that shows the EGR cleaning, I will tackle that tmrw most likely. BTW I am assuming by LIM, you mean Lower Intake manifold
Holy smokes, I thought I was almost done with this job until I read your post. I will look into these things tmrw. I have to run back to Pep Boys as they will get my 3rd injector in tmrw. I wish I had known the brands that were better before making the purchase and installing 2 of them. As for the 3 under the intake, I am def changing all 3 because I def do not want to do this again, hahah a royal PITA.
Thanks JVG for all your info and suggestions, will take them highly into consideration now, especially since the intake is off.
-Pewter
I agree, had #5 injector go on mine. Replaced all 3 just so i wouldnt have to take the uim off again. I got rebuilt injectors, they work great. They come with o-rings installed. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CHDLSE/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ok so while checking my knock sensor as suggested from a previous post. I found something fury in that area where the knock sensor is, see pic. I thought maybe a squirrel because I saw a few acorns in there as well which I cannot reach. But it looks like just a ball of fur, wth is this crap. Oh yeah and the knock sensor has no crack in it either so no need to change it
The best thing to do is just rebuild the injectors yourself by buying 6 oem unisia jecs pintel caps from eBay and buying the two oem o-rings from the dealership. All of this can be done under 30.00-40.00 as where you would pay 50.00-100.00 for one injector without the o-rings. Also use only oem o-rings as the aftermarket ones are made of crappy cheap rubber that cannot withstand fuel and will leak fuel pressure causing starting problems. Your injectors are probably fine and you could only have bad cracked Pinter caps.
^Rebuilding the injector is only half of it. They should be cleaned and flow tested for optimal performance. Partially clogged injectors with new pintle caps, rings and screens doesn't make a whole lotta sense.
I just got to laugh and maybe scream a little. So I put everything back together and the moment of exciting truth... i attempt to start her up and.... nothing. All accesories come on but the car doesn't crank, almost like a dead battery. In any event I have a charger hooked up right now hoping the battery just died from the trunk being open, doors being opened...etc. I dunno.
So I had loosened the crank sensor ground wires. I re tightened them up while the car was charging... tried again and it started
Took her for a spin and wow.... runs like a beaut.
I'd like to thank all you guys for the comments and suggestions. The IACW is cleaned, EGR tube is cleaned as best as I could get it... and the crank sensor is good. If not for that sensor I wouldn't have noticed the mouse nest, or squirrel nest in there. Also all wires were solid, unless they got something I couldn't see. You guys rock man.
I try to work on what I can while I can, while its easy.
While you are you in there anyway..... the whole upper manifold removal and associated work is the reason behind my signature and moto.
Hey JVG whats' up, well I need to retrack my last statement because the car is worse then before. I drove it last night for about 20 miles around town and was super excited. Later in the night she started having idling problems when at a stop light, stop sign. Today I start it up and white smoke out the tailpipe. Car starts up ONLY after punching the gas, then she starts and after letting go of the gas idle drops to 200-300 RPMS and then stalls. I'm like pulling my hair out now because I don't know.
I did some more searching on the forums and purchased a new crankshaft position sensor thinking that could be the issue, NOPE... oh and yeah I did get a code, Crankshaft position sensor, and o2 sensor. So after reading some other posts went to pepboys bought a new sensor and that didn't fix the issue.
I don't know what else to think other than taking a lit match and dumping it into the gas tank, haha.
PS: I'm wondering if the injectors I installed are not fully in and dumping too much fuel. Maybe the rings that came with the injectors are just not good enough. I don't know what else to think at this point.
I strongly believe it's one or more injectors dumping too much fuel. Like I said before, new rings etc are pointless on a bad injector(s). It's like putting lipstick on a pig.
Did you retrace your steps to make sure everything was installed right? If it's not your injector(s), then I'd look at the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR).
I strongly believe it's one or more injectors dumping too much fuel. Like I said before, new rings etc are pointless on a bad injector(s). It's like putting lipstick on a pig.
Did you retrace your steps to make sure everything was installed right? If it's not your injector(s), then I'd look at the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR).
Hi Wizard, thanks for responding. I actually bought new injectors but used the rings that came with them. Wondering if I should have bought new ones and installed them. I did retrace and everything looks correct. Even checked all the hoses. While the car was running I unplugged the connector to the coil on all cyclinders and the car shuttered for the exception of cylinder 3, same problem before I started. If it did shutter it was very light. I swapped #3's coil with #1's and that test proved the coil was good. Maybe the connector is bad, I dunno because it worked great last night. I'll go read the thread you posted after I click on post here.
On another Maxima that I worked on for a friend, I installed new injectors and had issues with one of them. Never assume that because something is new, that it's working properly.
On another Maxima that I worked on for a friend, I installed new injectors and had issues with one of them. Never assume that because something is new, that it's working properly.
Yeah this is true, I am going to start taking it apart again tmrw morning, uughh. Will check the plugs, they are new NGK Plats, and check these damn injectors again. Let me ask you this, when you installed your new injectors in, how did you push them in? And did you lube the rings with any lubricant before inserting them in?
oh yeah I forgot to mention that the exhaust had a liquid building up under the tailpipe. I took a tissue to it and sapped up alot of it and smelled it, raw fuel like in your last thread I just finished reading Totally forgot about that until I read your post.
I did lube the injectors before inserting, and was very careful that I applied even pressure and had them centered perfectly. They popped right in. I used some assembly lube (oil).
I did lube the injectors before inserting, and was very careful that I applied even pressure and had them centered perfectly. They popped right in. I used some assembly lube (oil).
hmmmmm, I didn't so that when installing mine. Never even crossed my mind until today when I was re-tracing my steps. I also checked the service manual and it says to lube it with motor oil. &^#$#@
Originally Posted by JvG
I had my injectors serviced by Injector Rx. They came with new o rings. The instructions said to lube them with motor oil.
I use some kind of lubricant every time I install an o ring.
Rubber parts tend to rip and leak if shoved in there.
But not if lubed.
Possible that you ripped or deformed the o ring.
If you remove the plugs, you might find a wet one.
Yeah, I think I will def check them tmrw. and pull the damn intake off again. uughh. I think the rings are screwed then, would explain the raw fuel out the tailpipe.
*****-$!#$@. Well you live and learn, hopefully this is the issue. But find it insane that the same injector or cylinder might be dead. Will have to get a new one, or swap it out at Pep Boys. Def buying new rings now for the 3 injectors I replaced yesterday. uughh
We all have learned from our mistakes. Part of the curriculum of the school of hard knocks...... and bruised fingers.
Bet you'll lube next time. ......
Yes, check or replace messed up o rings.
Details details.
This task is a true cluster cluck.
And a pita to go in there again.
Now you know why I said to do it all while you are in there.
Anything else you might replace some day? Do it now.
Don't want to do this a third time.
Hang in there. Good work.... the car ran.
Yeah man, school of hard knocks is def in session on this one, bllehh.
I am wondering if any of the injectors actually got damaged and need replacing now. Hopefully its just the o-ring, but I am left wondering because when I yank out the coil connector on cylinder 3 no shutter on the engine, scratching head.
Anyway, I am off to start this again. Should be a little quicker now since I should be a semi pro at the intake, hahah. (I have to laugh)
So I ended up going to Nissan and buying 1 small O-ring all they had, and 3 larger ones. Went to Parts Authority and bought 2 kits and a GB injector just in case. I pulled the car apart in like 35-40 mins, getting good at this.
I pulled nmbr 3 injector and the ring was smashed, ripped and inflated... totally destroyed. So I pulled out the other 2 and same thing but not has bad.
Changed the rings but noticed the the piece above the oring was crushed too, so I ended up replacing that entire injector with the GB. Put the car back together and no more smoke and she seems to be running a little better. But still having an issue with the car idling at 200-300 rpms. Stalls a few times and takes forever to start. Just cranks and cranks. ughhh. but when she does start, idles at like 800 when cold, and then goes to 200-300.
Since cold idle speed is higher than cold idle speed, the iacv valve appears to be working, and the engine temperature sensor ad well..
There is a an idle speed adjustment screw on the throttle body.
Haven't done mine in a long time. Forgot how. Do a search...
This should be nothing more than turning the proper screw.
so I did a search and found a few where some people used the TB screw, the IACW screw after disconnecting the TPS sensor. But I ended up using the ECU, turned the screw counter clockwise while the car was in neutral and BAM, idling consistently at 750 RPMS when in N, P and driving and coming to a stop. Car is running good again for the exception of starting. It take like 5 tries to crank her up. this is the only thing I need to figure out now.
Originally Posted by The Wizard
Wowzers. You really did a number on those o-rings. Glad you're figuring stuff out.
Yeah i know, but I learned alot, hahah still have one thing to figure out though and thats the stupid startup. Ill do some searching on here and see what I come up with.
So all problems have been resolved, knock on wood, shoot.
The problem with the starting was the Crankshaft Position Sensor (REF) which was located next to the oil filter. I had installed a new one and didn't realize I had left it plugged into the connector but not screwed back into the motor, so it was just dangling there. I got the car started after cranking it for like 4 mins, drove it around and bam, Engine light. Checked it and it was the damn sensor. Realizing I never bolted it in i jacked up the car, bolted her in and car starts instantly. I think its safe to say car is 100% fixed. well this issue.
ha I do have a coolant leak under the alternator which I know or pretty positive its the water pump. Leaving that for another day though. That looks like a PITA as well.
Thanks to JVG and The Wizard, appreciate the help over the course of this PITA repair Happy Easter to you guys and everyone else, dinner bell is ringing
03-23-2016, 02:15 PM
but I learned alot, hahah still have one thing to figure out though and thats the stupid startup. Ill do some searching on here and see what I come up with.
