Chassis ??? and Tie Rod ???: 99 SE.
#1
Chassis ??? and Tie Rod ???: 99 SE.
So after replacing the front strut assemblies, LCA's and Sway Bar bushings and end links, I have a loud rattle on the right front side. Looked at everything today and everything is in order.
Then I looked at the tie rod end and it's original (both sides inner and outer) with 200K miles. So I yank on the tie rod end, it seems solid except it rotates about 100 degrees and makes a loud metal slap at each end of the rotation. Could this be what I hear? The tie rod end looks to be intact but with zero grease (no fittings). Is it time to do inner and outer on both sides? How big a job is this? I'm trying to get a video so you can see/hear it from my Galaxy S6 to YT. Here:
Then the 2 chassis rails under the floor, one is bent up towards the front. Is this a big problem and what is the fix?
Thanks Fellas!
Then I looked at the tie rod end and it's original (both sides inner and outer) with 200K miles. So I yank on the tie rod end, it seems solid except it rotates about 100 degrees and makes a loud metal slap at each end of the rotation. Could this be what I hear? The tie rod end looks to be intact but with zero grease (no fittings). Is it time to do inner and outer on both sides? How big a job is this? I'm trying to get a video so you can see/hear it from my Galaxy S6 to YT. Here:
Then the 2 chassis rails under the floor, one is bent up towards the front. Is this a big problem and what is the fix?
Thanks Fellas!
Last edited by KP11520; 09-06-2016 at 02:16 PM.
#2
Sounds like you need inner tie rods. Especially if it makes that same noise when you move it in and out. With 200k I'd replace the outer while you are there. I'm not saying that's your noise but based on what you have replaced it very well could be. Good luck.
#3
Thanks!
There is no movement in and out, only when rotating it. Tires are wearing evenly as well.
Just can't figure out where the clanking is coming from. It's quite loud and disturbing. Half axles maybe???
And after lifting the car to do the video and pictures, now I get a low rumble that is consistent with speed from the front middle.
Fire and Theft and a match! LOL (KIDDING)
Really frustrated with this POS. 200K rattle trap miles the hard way and very expensive the last 100K. And it seems like the more I do, the further away the finish line gets.
There is no movement in and out, only when rotating it. Tires are wearing evenly as well.
Just can't figure out where the clanking is coming from. It's quite loud and disturbing. Half axles maybe???
And after lifting the car to do the video and pictures, now I get a low rumble that is consistent with speed from the front middle.
Fire and Theft and a match! LOL (KIDDING)
Really frustrated with this POS. 200K rattle trap miles the hard way and very expensive the last 100K. And it seems like the more I do, the further away the finish line gets.
#4
Sure enough, it turned out being the strut mounts and bearings were blown out on the right and almost there on the left. I installed the complete Moog Problem Solver strut assemblies 2 years ago.
Thankfully, I brought it to a decent mechanic to find this. I never would have looked since they were 2 years old.
He said he NEVER uses strut assemblies after learning the hard way. You've got to cherry pick all the best components and build your own. The tops of the Moog were torn out and the bearing was crushed on the right.
3 hours labor and parts and $400 later, my $200 Moog Strut Assemblies are now what I would have thought they were to begin with. OUCH!
My advice is his advice..... Build your own with the best of parts. (Spring Compressor required)
SO MUCH quieter and feels solid....... NICE!
Live and learn!
Now to find the drive train rumble.
Thankfully, I brought it to a decent mechanic to find this. I never would have looked since they were 2 years old.
He said he NEVER uses strut assemblies after learning the hard way. You've got to cherry pick all the best components and build your own. The tops of the Moog were torn out and the bearing was crushed on the right.
3 hours labor and parts and $400 later, my $200 Moog Strut Assemblies are now what I would have thought they were to begin with. OUCH!
My advice is his advice..... Build your own with the best of parts. (Spring Compressor required)
SO MUCH quieter and feels solid....... NICE!
Live and learn!
Now to find the drive train rumble.
#5
Sure enough, it turned out being the strut mounts and bearings were blown out on the right and almost there on the left. I installed the complete Moog Problem Solver strut assemblies 2 years ago.
Thankfully, I brought it to a decent mechanic to find this. I never would have looked since they were 2 years old.
He said he NEVER uses strut assemblies after learning the hard way. You've got to cherry pick all the best components and build your own. The tops of the Moog were torn out and the bearing was crushed on the right.
3 hours labor and parts and $400 later, my $200 Moog Strut Assemblies are now what I would have thought they were to begin with. OUCH!
My advice is his advice..... Build your own with the best of parts. (Spring Compressor required)
SO MUCH quieter and feels solid....... NICE!
Live and learn!
Now to find the drive train rumble.
Thankfully, I brought it to a decent mechanic to find this. I never would have looked since they were 2 years old.
He said he NEVER uses strut assemblies after learning the hard way. You've got to cherry pick all the best components and build your own. The tops of the Moog were torn out and the bearing was crushed on the right.
3 hours labor and parts and $400 later, my $200 Moog Strut Assemblies are now what I would have thought they were to begin with. OUCH!
My advice is his advice..... Build your own with the best of parts. (Spring Compressor required)
SO MUCH quieter and feels solid....... NICE!
Live and learn!
Now to find the drive train rumble.
Monroe Quickstruts all the way around. The front drivers side mount only lasted about three months. Replaced that assembly and no more issues up front (knock on wood). Replaced rear assemblies three times (first two Monroe and last Gabriel) and still clunking. Blows my mind that three new strut assemblies could have mount issues but not sure what else it could be. Which components did you end up using? I'll probably try oe mounts but wish I could diagnose for sure before spending more $.
Last edited by kingw323; 09-11-2016 at 08:26 PM.
#6
+1 on that... When I did all 4 corners on my 99 a couple years ago, I got the individual parts, more work but better results... I think the manufacturers capitalize on the fact that these assemblies are for those who may not want the hassle of replacing individual parts, and use lower quality parts that don't have to be individually warrantied... They hope that the stuff used will last as long as the assembly is warrantied, then they are off the hook.
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