Burning smell in engine and into A/C vents. I see nothing
#1
Burning smell in engine and into A/C vents. I see nothing
I'm back...no major issues lately which is good.
But, something has been going on for awhile and it's gotten slightly more noticeable. I have asthma and the smell tends to trigger it and irritate me a bit. There's no smoke, just a subtle burning smell.
A bit of info: my a/c works.
The smell comes with or without AC on. The only time I don't smell it is when it's in recirculate.
My serpentine belt has been on for awhile, but no squeaking noises
Using Asian Xerex coolant
I lose a little recovery tank coolant every few weeks.
5 or 10w30 synthetic oil. No oil burning
Passed emissions last year.
The smell seems to be coming from the engine and getting into the car. The other day I removed splash guards from crankcase side and degreased a bunch of tarry oil buildup off the side of the engine and as far as I could reach the pressure washer in any crevices. So there's leaks, but I don't see it and I don't lose much oil in between changes (I DIY and check often)
Question is: should I check/access the heater cores from the engine or is it in the dashboard?
But, something has been going on for awhile and it's gotten slightly more noticeable. I have asthma and the smell tends to trigger it and irritate me a bit. There's no smoke, just a subtle burning smell.
A bit of info: my a/c works.
The smell comes with or without AC on. The only time I don't smell it is when it's in recirculate.
My serpentine belt has been on for awhile, but no squeaking noises
Using Asian Xerex coolant
I lose a little recovery tank coolant every few weeks.
5 or 10w30 synthetic oil. No oil burning
Passed emissions last year.
The smell seems to be coming from the engine and getting into the car. The other day I removed splash guards from crankcase side and degreased a bunch of tarry oil buildup off the side of the engine and as far as I could reach the pressure washer in any crevices. So there's leaks, but I don't see it and I don't lose much oil in between changes (I DIY and check often)
Question is: should I check/access the heater cores from the engine or is it in the dashboard?
Last edited by 97_GXE; 09-15-2016 at 01:39 AM.
#2
would not worry about dashboard. the fresh air intakes are just below the wipers.
any oil that is hitting any part of the exhaust manifold will cause the odor to be drawn into the fresh air intakes. you need to stop the leaks
any oil that is hitting any part of the exhaust manifold will cause the odor to be drawn into the fresh air intakes. you need to stop the leaks
#3
Damn. so you say exhaust manifold, is it normal for our cars to make hot piping noises after turning the car off? I'm wondering if that has anything to do with also. I'm at 317,000...so there's def some aging
#4
The valve cover on the engine that is in front of the firewall has a very good chance of leaking. Since the exhaust manifold is right below, the oil could drip on it. The oil will also run down the side of the engine and drip on the exhaust y-pipe.
When you turn the car off, it may make noises from 2 areas. The heat shields around the exhaust system as they cool and contract and the gas cap as it slowly equalizes the vacuum in the gas tank. These are normal. The effort to stop these noises are not worth the effort IMHO.
When you turn the car off, it may make noises from 2 areas. The heat shields around the exhaust system as they cool and contract and the gas cap as it slowly equalizes the vacuum in the gas tank. These are normal. The effort to stop these noises are not worth the effort IMHO.
#7
I'd say rear valve cover as previously mentioned. I had the same problem. I didn't lose any oil when looking at the dipstick between oil changes. It's a slow leak that seeps down to the exhaust.
With a cool engine, try to reach down to the corner of the rear valve cover and feel for oil. I was able to find the leak at the corner, the common area.
Good luck.
With a cool engine, try to reach down to the corner of the rear valve cover and feel for oil. I was able to find the leak at the corner, the common area.
Good luck.
#8
hell, if i didn't smell oil in the cabin, i would think i was driving someone else's max. oil leaks? ha!!! everywhere, constantly topping off the oil, anti-freeze, power steering. old cars, high miles, do the math, i just leave the windows cracked and in the winter i leave recirculate on.
#9
The valve cover on the engine that is in front of the firewall has a very good chance of leaking. Since the exhaust manifold is right below, the oil could drip on it. The oil will also run down the side of the engine and drip on the exhaust y-pipe.
When you turn the car off, it may make noises from 2 areas. The heat shields around the exhaust system as they cool and contract and the gas cap as it slowly equalizes the vacuum in the gas tank. These are normal. The effort to stop these noises are not worth the effort IMHO.
When you turn the car off, it may make noises from 2 areas. The heat shields around the exhaust system as they cool and contract and the gas cap as it slowly equalizes the vacuum in the gas tank. These are normal. The effort to stop these noises are not worth the effort IMHO.
What should I do? I recently had all my spark plugs changed by a mechanic. Does changing the spark plugs involve removing valve covers? I just ask because I used to have a camry that needed a valve cover gasket and spark plug gaskets...because it was swelling the plug wires causing the car to misfire or whatever it was doing.
Not sure I can get that fixed before my next trip, considering maybe just doing another oil change and bumping up to 10w40 again from 5w30
#10
The oil leak itself isn't a problem, nor is the smell. Its the fact the oil is dripping down and getting on other parts. It ruined my power steering boot, and control arm bushing.
I'd say, if the max is in otherwise good working order, you should be able to road trip it. If you have to put in more oil between oil changes, then you have problems.
Spark plugs don't require removal of valve cover.
Did you confirm it's the rear valve cover?
I'd say, if the max is in otherwise good working order, you should be able to road trip it. If you have to put in more oil between oil changes, then you have problems.
Spark plugs don't require removal of valve cover.
Did you confirm it's the rear valve cover?
#11
trade secrets. don't tell him about the 2 liter bottle fresh air vent right above the sunroof.
seriously though, leaks everywhere. i have never seen an engine leak like this vq. surprisingly the air in cabin is pretty fresh. what's up with that?
#12
my 95 can legally drink at 21 years old. no leaks. has it had some over its life? yup lower oil pan/valve covers/Power steering hose/coolant. all simple repairs and no leaks now.
#14
mine is a one owner car bought in 95 by me so very easy to tackle issues as they come up.
getting a used car with no idea what was maintained and what wasnt and having to deal with a bunch of things at once is something I have done in the past and would rather not do again. last 3 cars I bought new and will be maintained/driven till the wheels fall off and cannot be put back
.
for those tackling issues on a A32 MAX bought used the good news is most items are very easy and inexpensive to repair. and parts widely available.
#15
The oil leak itself isn't a problem, nor is the smell. Its the fact the oil is dripping down and getting on other parts. It ruined my power steering boot, and control arm bushing.
I'd say, if the max is in otherwise good working order, you should be able to road trip it. If you have to put in more oil between oil changes, then you have problems.
Spark plugs don't require removal of valve cover.
Did you confirm it's the rear valve cover?
I'd say, if the max is in otherwise good working order, you should be able to road trip it. If you have to put in more oil between oil changes, then you have problems.
Spark plugs don't require removal of valve cover.
Did you confirm it's the rear valve cover?
Well when I did that degreasing and high pressure spray around and under the engine, I Had oil buildup on my control arm bushing also. It was so caked up that I never knew there was a bolt there. All looks pretty clean now. However, that was there for years...so could have been oil and sand and other stuff, not just oil. Not to mention the oil filter design tends to make oil run all around the connecting clip near the oil drain plug.
I haven't confirmed anything yet, but I did go ahead and change the oil at 4,000 miles today. Much sooner than my normal 7,500 mile interval. That way the burning oil won't further contribute to my lung cancer symptoms
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