Alternator harness wire help
#1
Alternator harness wire help
Hey guys im installing my high output alternator and ran in to a snag at the end of getting all back to gether to test....when i connected the battery the battery light and brake light came on ( for bad alternator). Now. How do i go about making use of the harness to make the light work properly...
what are the wires
Black/yellow
White/red
What do they do ... Any help please
what are the wires
Black/yellow
White/red
What do they do ... Any help please
Last edited by DrewFree; 01-07-2017 at 09:55 AM.
#2
Here's a link to the wiring diagram PDF - EL section. Is yours a 99 model?
Page EL-31 or PDF page 33. Alternator in the picture with wire color codes,
http://www.boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1999/EL.pdf
'
Page EL-31 or PDF page 33. Alternator in the picture with wire color codes,
http://www.boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1999/EL.pdf
'
#3
Here's a link to the wiring diagram PDF - EL section. Is yours a 99 model?
Page EL-31 or PDF page 33. Alternator in the picture with wire color codes,
http://www.boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1999/EL.pdf
'
Page EL-31 or PDF page 33. Alternator in the picture with wire color codes,
http://www.boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1999/EL.pdf
'
Do you know the job of each wire? And how to make them act as they are supposed to
#4
Did your new alternator come with instructions for hook up to your existing wiring?
Maybe this is a better picture.
Here's a picture of the alternator wiring harness showing the yellow/black and white/red wires.
Alternator Diagram
B - Black/Red - Battery (for charging the battery) - The one with a boot.
E - Represents Ground (to the body) through the alternator bracket.
Alternator Wiring Harness Wires
3 (S) - Yellow/Black - Voltage regulator and to produce an electromagnetic field
2 (L) - White/Red - Charging Indicator Light
Here's a post from Dennis that explains wiring and the three wires.
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...ml#post9102842
I take it you still have your alternator wiring harness to adapt for the new alternator?
Maybe this is a better picture.
Here's a picture of the alternator wiring harness showing the yellow/black and white/red wires.
Alternator Diagram
B - Black/Red - Battery (for charging the battery) - The one with a boot.
E - Represents Ground (to the body) through the alternator bracket.
Alternator Wiring Harness Wires
3 (S) - Yellow/Black - Voltage regulator and to produce an electromagnetic field
2 (L) - White/Red - Charging Indicator Light
Here's a post from Dennis that explains wiring and the three wires.
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...ml#post9102842
I take it you still have your alternator wiring harness to adapt for the new alternator?
#5
Heres the instructions im working with....
Wasnt sure of how it worked.. I connected the
W/R wire to the Y/B wire and connected those to
The supplied yellow wire on the harness and looped the supplied blue wire on the alternator terminal as instructed ..hopefully we can figure this out ...doesnt seem like a big thing( just my lack of knowledge in this are)
Wasnt sure of how it worked.. I connected the
W/R wire to the Y/B wire and connected those to
The supplied yellow wire on the harness and looped the supplied blue wire on the alternator terminal as instructed ..hopefully we can figure this out ...doesnt seem like a big thing( just my lack of knowledge in this are)
#6
Heres the instructions im working with....
Wasnt sure of how it worked.. I connected the
W/R wire to the Y/B wire and connected those to
The supplied yellow wire on the harness and looped the supplied blue wire on the alternator terminal as instructed ..hopefully we can figure this out ...doesnt seem like a big thing( just my lack of knowledge in this are)
Wasnt sure of how it worked.. I connected the
W/R wire to the Y/B wire and connected those to
The supplied yellow wire on the harness and looped the supplied blue wire on the alternator terminal as instructed ..hopefully we can figure this out ...doesnt seem like a big thing( just my lack of knowledge in this are)
The blue wire may be for running the voltage regulator and to provide current for the electromagnetic field.
Since the directions say to connect the blue wire to the output side of the alternator, I would be tempted to connect it to the White/Red wire for that purpose to keep it somewhat like the original wiring setup. But I would try to clarify that to be on the safe side..
#7
Not sure the blue wires main purpose .....i was alittle confused when talking to the CS guy about...and of course theyre not open on weekends
Its weirdwit the connector though ....the yellow wire off the harness is in the position the W/R wire is in on the factory plug
Side note CS guy: I believe he was saying one of the factory wires wasnt going to be used
Its weirdwit the connector though ....the yellow wire off the harness is in the position the W/R wire is in on the factory plug
Side note CS guy: I believe he was saying one of the factory wires wasnt going to be used
Last edited by DrewFree; 01-07-2017 at 01:10 PM.
#8
Does the harness socket on the new alternator mate up with the OEM plug? If yes, maybe they have the wires crossed?
Is that alternator used for any other cars beyond a 4th gen?
#9
I would like to put my 2 cents in here.
Looking at the directions for the alternator, the photo tells me a lot. The blue wire with the ring terminal is the one that will create the magnetic field to make the alternator work. In the Nissan wire harness, this is the yellow/black stripe wire. You could connect the blue wire as the directions state or splice it to the Nissan wire. Your call.
The yellow wire in the DC Power alternator connector is for the battery idiot light in the dash. In the Nissan wire harness for the 99 it is a white/red stripe wire. Once again, you could splice these wires together or not. This wire is not necessary for the alternator to work. It is only for the idiot light in the dash. If you don't splice the wires together, the light will never come on.
And when I say splice a wire, I mean solder them together. Both twist connectors and crimp connectors will develop corrosion and the electrical connection is lost.
Personally, I would do both splices. If you ever have to remove the alternator, it will be a tiny bit easier.
Looking at the directions for the alternator, the photo tells me a lot. The blue wire with the ring terminal is the one that will create the magnetic field to make the alternator work. In the Nissan wire harness, this is the yellow/black stripe wire. You could connect the blue wire as the directions state or splice it to the Nissan wire. Your call.
The yellow wire in the DC Power alternator connector is for the battery idiot light in the dash. In the Nissan wire harness for the 99 it is a white/red stripe wire. Once again, you could splice these wires together or not. This wire is not necessary for the alternator to work. It is only for the idiot light in the dash. If you don't splice the wires together, the light will never come on.
And when I say splice a wire, I mean solder them together. Both twist connectors and crimp connectors will develop corrosion and the electrical connection is lost.
Personally, I would do both splices. If you ever have to remove the alternator, it will be a tiny bit easier.
#10
But from the plugs im guessing the middle pin isnt used
Oem plug pins
1. 2. 3. 4.
*. Y/B. W/R. *.
NEW PLUG PINS
1. 2. 3. 4.
BL. *. Y. *.
Forgot to add the other instructions but they might help you figure it out. Was a bit confusing to me
#11
I would like to put my 2 cents in here.
Looking at the directions for the alternator, the photo tells me a lot. The blue wire with the ring terminal is the one that will create the magnetic field to make the alternator work. In the Nissan wire harness, this is the yellow/black stripe wire. You could connect the blue wire as the directions state or splice it to the Nissan wire. Your call.
The yellow wire in the DC Power alternator connector is for the battery idiot light in the dash. In the Nissan wire harness for the 99 it is a white/red stripe wire. Once again, you could splice these wires together or not. This wire is not necessary for the alternator to work. It is only for the idiot light in the dash. If you don't splice the wires together, the light will never come on.
And when I say splice a wire, I mean solder them together. Both twist connectors and crimp connectors will develop corrosion and the electrical connection is lost.
Personally, I would do both splices. If you ever have to remove the alternator, it will be a tiny bit easier.
Looking at the directions for the alternator, the photo tells me a lot. The blue wire with the ring terminal is the one that will create the magnetic field to make the alternator work. In the Nissan wire harness, this is the yellow/black stripe wire. You could connect the blue wire as the directions state or splice it to the Nissan wire. Your call.
The yellow wire in the DC Power alternator connector is for the battery idiot light in the dash. In the Nissan wire harness for the 99 it is a white/red stripe wire. Once again, you could splice these wires together or not. This wire is not necessary for the alternator to work. It is only for the idiot light in the dash. If you don't splice the wires together, the light will never come on.
And when I say splice a wire, I mean solder them together. Both twist connectors and crimp connectors will develop corrosion and the electrical connection is lost.
Personally, I would do both splices. If you ever have to remove the alternator, it will be a tiny bit easier.
#12
If you solder the alternator's yellow wire to the Nissan's white/red stripe wire, you do not have to add a resistor. Nissan already has one built in. It is on the instrument cluster's printed circuit board.
#13
I would like to put my 2 cents in here.
Looking at the directions for the alternator, the photo tells me a lot. The blue wire with the ring terminal is the one that will create the magnetic field to make the alternator work. In the Nissan wire harness, this is the yellow/black stripe wire. You could connect the blue wire as the directions state or splice it to the Nissan wire. Your call.
The yellow wire in the DC Power alternator connector is for the battery idiot light in the dash. In the Nissan wire harness for the 99 it is a white/red stripe wire. Once again, you could splice these wires together or not. This wire is not necessary for the alternator to work. It is only for the idiot light in the dash. If you don't splice the wires together, the light will never come on.
And when I say splice a wire, I mean solder them together. Both twist connectors and crimp connectors will develop corrosion and the electrical connection is lost.
Personally, I would do both splices. If you ever have to remove the alternator, it will be a tiny bit easier.
Looking at the directions for the alternator, the photo tells me a lot. The blue wire with the ring terminal is the one that will create the magnetic field to make the alternator work. In the Nissan wire harness, this is the yellow/black stripe wire. You could connect the blue wire as the directions state or splice it to the Nissan wire. Your call.
The yellow wire in the DC Power alternator connector is for the battery idiot light in the dash. In the Nissan wire harness for the 99 it is a white/red stripe wire. Once again, you could splice these wires together or not. This wire is not necessary for the alternator to work. It is only for the idiot light in the dash. If you don't splice the wires together, the light will never come on.
And when I say splice a wire, I mean solder them together. Both twist connectors and crimp connectors will develop corrosion and the electrical connection is lost.
Personally, I would do both splices. If you ever have to remove the alternator, it will be a tiny bit easier.
Seems legit im going to try splicng them together
But if i werent to splice them how is the alternator itself getting power for the electromagnet, through the blue wire on the alternator terminal directly from the battery?
Thank you both for your help its greatly appreciated im hoping to get it done today and let you know how it goes...its a bit snowy here in jersey right now
#14
The alternator case is made to match the Nissan (made by Hitachi) alternator so it will fit on the engine. As for the plastic connector, they can use whatever size/shape connector they want, have on hand or can buy for cheap. There is no requirement to use every possible wire opening. As I said earlier, only one wire is needed to make the alternator work, anything else is optional.
#15
Only that blue wire is needed by the alternator. The DC Power people put a ring terminal so you can connect it to the output terminal of the alternator which is connected to the car's battery. They show that in the directions.
#16
All wired up .. No more warning lights
everything seemed good car started as usual ran fine ....but was only reading 12 volts from the alternator and the battery... As if it wasnt charging.
i tested the wipers and they were extremely sluggish at full speed. So obviously theres a problem somewhere. Id hate to immediately assume the alternators no good.
anyone have any thoughts? Gonna do some troubleshoothing so ill be on here
everything seemed good car started as usual ran fine ....but was only reading 12 volts from the alternator and the battery... As if it wasnt charging.
i tested the wipers and they were extremely sluggish at full speed. So obviously theres a problem somewhere. Id hate to immediately assume the alternators no good.
anyone have any thoughts? Gonna do some troubleshoothing so ill be on here
Last edited by DrewFree; 01-08-2017 at 01:06 PM.
#18
I'm out of answers on this one. I would call DC tomorrow.
#20
My last possible thpught is:
Maybe im not getting the 12 volts from the
white/red to the yellow on the alternator . im thinking it needs to recieve power from this to allow the alternator to start...gonna go outside and check the white/red wire with the key turned .
Can anyone confirm if the. Battery light on the dash is supposed to light up with all other warning lights when key is turned..
I just noticed that mine does not
Maybe im not getting the 12 volts from the
white/red to the yellow on the alternator . im thinking it needs to recieve power from this to allow the alternator to start...gonna go outside and check the white/red wire with the key turned .
Can anyone confirm if the. Battery light on the dash is supposed to light up with all other warning lights when key is turned..
I just noticed that mine does not
#21
My last possible thpught is:
Maybe im not getting the 12 volts from the
white/red to the yellow on the alternator . im thinking it needs to recieve power from this to allow the alternator to start...gonna go outside and check the white/red wire with the key turned .
Can anyone confirm if the. Battery light on the dash is supposed to light up with all other warning lights when key is turned..
I just noticed that mine does not
Maybe im not getting the 12 volts from the
white/red to the yellow on the alternator . im thinking it needs to recieve power from this to allow the alternator to start...gonna go outside and check the white/red wire with the key turned .
Can anyone confirm if the. Battery light on the dash is supposed to light up with all other warning lights when key is turned..
I just noticed that mine does not
#22
Thank you for confirming....mine does not.....
which from my understanding is necessary to complete the circuit on the alternator and allow it to start....
Which i believe is why if i werent to use the idiot light they say to wire it to a "key on" circuit. To give it power.....
so im assuming since the bulbs not lighting im probably not getting the 12 volts to white/ red wire at the alternator when i turn the key to on
Sound plausible ?. Guess i should go out and check but can anyone give me an idea why the bulb may not light when i turn key to on? ( bulb blown, fuse blown, ?)
which from my understanding is necessary to complete the circuit on the alternator and allow it to start....
Which i believe is why if i werent to use the idiot light they say to wire it to a "key on" circuit. To give it power.....
so im assuming since the bulbs not lighting im probably not getting the 12 volts to white/ red wire at the alternator when i turn the key to on
Sound plausible ?. Guess i should go out and check but can anyone give me an idea why the bulb may not light when i turn key to on? ( bulb blown, fuse blown, ?)
#23
Thank you for confirming....mine does not.....
which from my understanding is necessary to complete the circuit on the alternator and allow it to start....
Which i believe is why if i werent to use the idiot light they say to wire it to a "key on" circuit. To give it power.....
so im assuming since the bulbs not lighting im probably not getting the 12 volts to white/ red wire at the alternator when i turn the key to on
Sound plausible ?. Guess i should go out and check but can anyone give me an idea why the bulb may not light when i turn key to on? ( bulb blown, fuse blown, ?)
which from my understanding is necessary to complete the circuit on the alternator and allow it to start....
Which i believe is why if i werent to use the idiot light they say to wire it to a "key on" circuit. To give it power.....
so im assuming since the bulbs not lighting im probably not getting the 12 volts to white/ red wire at the alternator when i turn the key to on
Sound plausible ?. Guess i should go out and check but can anyone give me an idea why the bulb may not light when i turn key to on? ( bulb blown, fuse blown, ?)
The other Nissan wire, the yellow/black stripe wire should have 12 volts to it all the time. This is the wire that you spliced to the alternator's blue wire. But since you have also connected the blue wire directly to the output terminal of the alternator and you still didn't get the alternator to work, there is probably something wrong with the alternator.
However, as a sanity check, measure for voltage at the alternator's output terminal where you connect the thick wire that goes to the battery. If you don't have 12 volts, the main fusible link (120 amp) could have somehow gotten blown.
#24
The battery light circuit has nothing to do with the alternator working. As the instructions from the alternator people stated, the yellow wire that connects to the idiot light is optional to connect. While the white/red stripe wire should have 12 volts on it when the ignition key is in the ON position because that is the way Nissan designed it, it isn't needed to make the alternator produce current.
The other Nissan wire, the yellow/black stripe wire should have 12 volts to it all the time. This is the wire that you spliced to the alternator's blue wire. But since you have also connected the blue wire directly to the output terminal of the alternator and you still didn't get the alternator to work, there is probably something wrong with the alternator.
However, as a sanity check, measure for voltage at the alternator's output terminal where you connect the thick wire that goes to the battery. If you don't have 12 volts, the main fusible link (120 amp) could have somehow gotten blown.
The other Nissan wire, the yellow/black stripe wire should have 12 volts to it all the time. This is the wire that you spliced to the alternator's blue wire. But since you have also connected the blue wire directly to the output terminal of the alternator and you still didn't get the alternator to work, there is probably something wrong with the alternator.
However, as a sanity check, measure for voltage at the alternator's output terminal where you connect the thick wire that goes to the battery. If you don't have 12 volts, the main fusible link (120 amp) could have somehow gotten blown.
The battery FL is good.
ill be on the phone tomorrow
Thanks for the input
#25
Alright so huge disappointment with the new alternator so far, for $600 you would think you would get something and not have any hassle .
So the old alternators back in the car running as it was , the new alternators back in the box ready to go back. I will give it another shot , **** happens , hopefully its a simple fix and they can get it back to me by the beginning of next week.
If it comes back defective again its going back for good and im pulling the amps and subs out.
So the old alternators back in the car running as it was , the new alternators back in the box ready to go back. I will give it another shot , **** happens , hopefully its a simple fix and they can get it back to me by the beginning of next week.
If it comes back defective again its going back for good and im pulling the amps and subs out.
#27
Help please :-)
Could you please help me. the wires broke off at the alt plug when replacing my alternator. I fixed the plug but can't figure out which wire goes to which sidr of the plug. There are 2 wires 1 brown and 1 yellow with black stripe. Please help if you can. Thank you. 2004 Nissan Murano SL 3.5
#28
Alternator help
Did your new alternator come with instructions for hook up to your existing wiring?
Maybe this is a better picture.
Here's a picture of the alternator wiring harness showing the yellow/black and white/red wires.
Alternator Diagram
B - Black/Red - Battery (for charging the battery) - The one with a boot.
E - Represents Ground (to the body) through the alternator bracket.
Alternator Wiring Harness Wires
3 (S) - Yellow/Black - Voltage regulator and to produce an electromagnetic field
2 (L) - White/Red - Charging Indicator Light
Here's a post from Dennis that explains wiring and the three wires.
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...ml#post9102842
I take it you still have your alternator wiring harness to adapt for the new alternator?
Maybe this is a better picture.
Here's a picture of the alternator wiring harness showing the yellow/black and white/red wires.
Alternator Diagram
B - Black/Red - Battery (for charging the battery) - The one with a boot.
E - Represents Ground (to the body) through the alternator bracket.
Alternator Wiring Harness Wires
3 (S) - Yellow/Black - Voltage regulator and to produce an electromagnetic field
2 (L) - White/Red - Charging Indicator Light
Here's a post from Dennis that explains wiring and the three wires.
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...ml#post9102842
I take it you still have your alternator wiring harness to adapt for the new alternator?
#29
That wire connects to three things: the wiring harness in the engine bay, the alternator, and the AC compressor.