When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I was offered this white Maxima, along with a 1997 maroon Maxima (complete but in pieces... more to come on this one which will be for my daughter) for $750 - I quickly took the deal! Here are some post cleanup pics.
The body is very straight, interior pretty damn good for 20 years old, and she runs decent, except for VERY hard shifting! I was hoping the tranny wasn't toast...
I fixed a few error codes - it was throwing 0304 knock sensor, 0401 air intake temp sensor, 0403 throttle position sensor, 0701 multiple cylinder misfire, and 1206 throttle position sensor circuit.
I found the throttle position sensor issue quickly, the sensor was simply unplugged. I also swapped a couple of coils from the '97 to fix the misfires, though I'll put in a new set eventually. The air intake temp sensor had one of it's wires torn off, I just pushed it into where it was pulled from to fix the issue until the new part comes in. After resetting the ECU, no more check engine light, and shifting issues were gone - hooray! She's running very well now, but there's some engine noise... and a nasty oil leak.
Looking up behind passenger CV:
Here are a couple of videos from underneath the engine, looking at oil leakage. This is all front of engine/passenger side footage. It's definitely a decent leak, onto the exhaust which smells horrible, and drips a few or several times an hour when sitting.
I'm planning putting in a timing kit, which will hopefully also take care of both the front engine noise and the oil leak. I'll also be running through this service list - any other suggestions are welcome!
I should also mention - there's lots of power steering fluid leaking also. Are there any common leaks in 4th gen power steering systems? Any insight appreciated - I'd like to fix this also when I have things apart for the timing set job.
CS_AR - it's definitely helped already! Though I do plan to get the maroon Maxima running also, so anything I salvage will need replacing...
Looks like you got quite a deal! Always nice to see a Maxima brought back to life.
My '96 is leaking power steering fluid at the cooler and has some pretty damp lines coming out of the reservoir going the other way. Haven't tried to fix that yet.
I chuckled to myself about your coil packs because my '96 developed an intermittent misfire that wasn't enough to trigger the CEL. Without the time to properly diagnose it, I swapped all six coil packs with a set in my shed from a '95 parts car I used to have. Almost two years later and they're still going strong.
CS_AR, looks like about what they're going for around me
cotton, good find! I would've done it as well. Reaching anything in the PS pump area is a pain! I have never taken the lines off. Definitely looks like the culprit. New crush washers for the hard pipe + hose. New hose for the soft line.
Black leather is the best leather!
I can't view the Youtube videos - try reimbedding them? I got my Max for $250 because it 'stopped running on the freeway, probably just the serpentine belt idler'. Replaced idler, has a scraping noise. Replaced chain, still had noise! The AC pump was going out causing a metallic scraping noise (It did need the chain anyway, there were two different scraping noises going on!) Edit: No noises now
I should also mention - there's lots of power steering fluid leaking also. Are there any common leaks in 4th gen power steering systems? Any insight appreciated - I'd like to fix this also when I have things apart for the timing set job.
CS_AR - it's definitely helped already! Though I do plan to get the maroon Maxima running also, so anything I salvage will need replacing...
hoses from reservoir sometimes leak at the hose clamps then fluid runs all the way down to drip off near the bottom parts
hoses from reservoir sometimes leak at the hose clamps then fluid runs all the way down to drip off near the bottom parts
Yea - I'm definitely seeing a lot of fluid by the reservoir. I'm also hearing a ticking/knocking in the rack and pinion when turning the wheels - I want to replace the whole rack and fluid lines at once.
Check your crank seal and crank pulley. Had my right side covered.
This is exactly what I'm afraid of actually... what is this fix for this? Do I have to pull the engine and all that mess? Or can I pull the pan and front bearing cap with the engine in place when I have everything apart for the timing job? Or, even better, is it a front-installable seal from inside the timing cover?
Great, thanks! I did notice the cam sensor had a small leak, but it was small compared to the lower and main leakage.
I also noticed some tranny fluid drips from the tranny pan today but it was getting dark and I couldn't see the source.
So 3 our of 6 fluid systems are leaking, not terrible?! They should be relatively easy fixes at least.
I also put new shocks all around, and wow I forget what a difference that can make! It was suuuuuper hoopty style bouncing forever over every bump. That and the code fixes/ECU reset have it running and feeling like a new(ish) car. After fixing the leaks it should do well for a while!
Great, thanks! I did notice the cam sensor had a small leak, but it was small compared to the lower and main leakage.
I also noticed some tranny fluid drips from the tranny pan today but it was getting dark and I couldn't see the source.
So 3 our of 6 fluid systems are leaking, not terrible?! They should be relatively easy fixes at least.
I also put new shocks all around, and wow I forget what a difference that can make! It was suuuuuper hoopty style bouncing forever over every bump. That and the code fixes/ECU reset have it running and feeling like a new(ish) car. After fixing the leaks it should do well for a while!
Hey Cotton - You are fast.
Here's a recent thread with information about timing chains, tensioners, leaks, and links to other threads on topics of interest.
There's been a lot of recent activity on fixing oil leaks, and replacing related rubber parts that contribute to run problems as our cars age.
One thing you may want to consider is to replace your injector o-rings, pintle, caps and/or screens. Like other rubber components that deteriorate with age, injector o-rings eventually start to leak. Leaking o-rings result in uncontrollable flooding problems. There is lots of recent posts on this as well. Prices vary greatly between approaches and sources for refreshing injectors. There are many threads on this topic.
One observation about leather interiors that I've noticed and appears to be consistent across the Infiniti/Nissan product line is black and dark blue leather appears to hold hold up better than other colors. I think the reason is because the leather used in darker seats may have been treated with different chemicals that hold up better over time.
For example, the expected life of different leather interiors on Infiniti Q45s from the 1990s varies greatly between white, Lt. gray, tan, burgundy, dark blue and black. Owners with black and dark blue interiors seem to always fare the best.
Here's a video on leather below. Nissan products use a poly coated leather so it doesn't dry as quickly as some European car leathers. What this means is leather car products that are expected to "soak into" the leather fibers will not penetrate the poly coating. The poly coating helps the leather last longer. However, some expensive leather restoration products that show dramatic results on a European cars with non-coated leather, will have no effect on our poly coated leather seats. Trust me on this one. I've spent a bunch of money on exotic leather treatment products that cannot penetrate the Nissan leather poly coating.
Yea - I'm definitely seeing a lot of fluid by the reservoir. I'm also hearing a ticking/knocking in the rack and pinion when turning the wheels - I want to replace the whole rack and fluid lines at once.
Low PS fluid will cause knocking during turns. Top off the reservoir with Dextron III ATF. Bleed out the air by raising the front end and turning the wheels back and forth several times. Hold it locked for 5 seconds during each turn.
If that fixes the knocking then fix the leak and don't bother replacing the rack. My aged reservoir hose cracked a few years ago and started leaking. It was cracked at the mounting bracket so after siphoning out the fluid in the reservoir I cut 1/2" off the top cracked hose.
Low PS fluid will cause knocking during turns. Top off the reservoir with Dextron III ATF. Bleed out the air by raising the front end and turning the wheels back and forth several times. Hold it locked for 5 seconds during each turn.
If that fixes the knocking then fix the leak and don't bother replacing the rack. My aged reservoir hose cracked a few years ago and started leaking. It was cracked at the mounting bracket so after siphoning out the fluid in the reservoir I cut 1/2" off the top cracked hose.
There's been a lot of recent activity on fixing oil leaks, and replacing related rubber parts that contribute to run problems as our cars age.
One thing you may want to consider is to replace your injector o-rings, pintle, caps and/or screens. Like other rubber components that deteriorate with age, injector o-rings eventually start to leak. Leaking o-rings result in uncontrollable flooding problems. There is lots of recent posts on this as well. Prices vary greatly between approaches and sources for refreshing injectors. There are many threads on this topic.
One observation about leather interiors that I've noticed and appears to be consistent across the Infiniti/Nissan product line is black and dark blue leather appears to hold hold up better than other colors. I think the reason is because the leather used in darker seats may have been treated with different chemicals that hold up better over time.
Thanks for the info. Interesting on the leather, sounds like I'm lucky to have the dark color. Good info on the o-rings - I'm wondering if this may have caused a hard-start condition I noticed when it was cold but ran for just a couple minutes prior to the start attempt. It seemed to go away after the ECM reset, but I'll keep a look out for it. I'll probably replace those either way when doing the timing job. I'll read more on injector refresh in general also.
What kind of mileage are folks getting out of the VQ30s? This one's at 243k miles, and seems strong. I'll do compression tests at some point soon to see where they're at.
I've read about the in-car valve job (keepers/o-rings) also - is there any benefit to this if I'm not rebuilding the entire head?
What about the upper oil pan?
Is there anything else I should attack when I have things apart for the timing job?
What kind of mileage are folks getting out of the VQ30s? This one's at 243k miles, and seems strong. I'll do compression tests at some point soon to see where they're at.
I've read about the in-car valve job (keepers/o-rings) also - is there any benefit to this if I'm not rebuilding the entire head?
What about the upper oil pan?
Is there anything else I should attack when I have things apart for the timing job?
On a recent interstate trip in my 98 model automatic, some parts were driving into a head wind, delivered 29.5 MPG.
I don't know anybody that has done in-car valve job. A reasonably cared for VQ30 will go 400,000 miles. Unless there is some catastrophic failure, these engines really don't require much work outside of replacing the rubber and RTV that just goes with age.
The FSM recommends removing the upper oil pan (UOP) when the timing cover is removed. It makes seating and sealing the half moon seals easier when the UOP is removed. Also, the half moon seals get old and brittle so replacing front and rear half moons when removing the UOP may remedy some oil leaks, that is if those are leaking. I've done the UOP and half moon replacement. It's not bad if you can take your time. Most likely you will want to replace the center sub-frame bushings during the UOP job. I did the UOP and sub-frame bushings when I installed the Warpspeed Y-pipe. There are many members that are running the Warpspeed Y-pipe to delete the front cats for some HP gains. All this stuff is connected, so I try to leverage replacing a hard to access rubber items when I have other parts removed as part of the process.
Cotton, before you remove the timing chain cover or consider valve work, try the simple fixes first.
Chances are good that replacing some hoses or hose clamps can fix your ps leaks.
The harmonic balancer can be removed with the engine in place.
Valve cover gaskets can leak and make a mess.
CS_AR is certainly correct about servicing the fuel injectors.
Question: Since you are considering engine disassembly, have you successfully done engine work before?
I have replaced the valve seals in other cars while the head is attached to the block. This is done if those seals are weak. The symtoms include burning lots of oil, and spewing a cloud of blue smoke while going down a hill in a lower gear.
Well, I ended up just purchasing a new VQ30 and having it installed. I had a bunch of work done when the engine was swapped...
Transmission service
New CVs
New power steering lines
new fuel lines (one had sprung a big leak)
New coils
New brakes all around
Several other things I’m not remembering, as that was a year ago already!
Recently I’ve had to replace the alternator, and replaced the battery at the same time.
I plan on doing the following over the next year or two, in roughly order planned.
Fix blower motor with MOSFET swap
New front end stuff in general, tie rods,
New wheels, 18” 350z or G35 graphite 6 spoke
Shocks/springs to lower a bit
Ground effects, halo headlights
Paint (adding spoiler), or perhaps a vinyl wrap..? I’m curious as to people’s experiences with these
Alpine CarPlay deck with backup camera, decent sound system
Maybe a light gray interior at some point, instead of the dark blue...
I should also mention what was found with the old engine... I had initially asked our local shop to do a timing job on the old engine. When the removed the timing cover, they discovered that the timing chain wasn’t even on the water pump, which is driven by said chain. Needless to say, this is where my overheating problem came from. They didn’t do their due diligence I had asked them to do (mainly cylinder compression testing) prior to tearing off the front of the engine, so agreed to go ahead to put it back together in hope that head gaskets were still OK.
They were not, as water spilled out of the engine when it was started. Head gaskets very blown... new engine ordered.
Your white car is an exact twin of mine, except mine is a '96 with tinted windows.
I got mine at 200k (now 252k) and it's been extremely reliable. It's one of those cars you can just hop in and know it'll get you where you're going. I wouldn't hesitate to drive to California in it on a moments notice.
The only real surprise failure was a water pump, but that's certainly expected at 200k. There is some oil seeping, but it's so slow I don't have to add oil between 7500mi oil changes.
I'm sure with a new engine, yours will keep going for a long, long time.
I got new wheels, from a 2006 Maxima. The 18s look much better than the stock 15s IMO. I also have a front end kit and lowering springs to install, but I must find the time!
Nice work. It looks great. I have a 98 I30 in grandma gold. Just had $900 of work done on it. Manifold gaskets, VC gaskets, cv axles, wheel bearings and various vacuum and coolant hoses replaced. My car will easily last another 10 years. Enjoy driving it. Did you get the maroon Max up and running?
I got new wheels, from a 2006 Maxima. The 18s look much better than the stock 15s IMO. I also have a front end kit and lowering springs to install, but I must find the time!
... Before with stock 15" wheels
... After with 2006 Maxima 18" wheels
I have never been a fan of those stock wheels. Still, seeing the side by side comparison it's like a completely different (better) car with those 18's. My '96 came with some 16" Konigs from the previous owner, but I am looking to upgrade to some 18's soon.
In ten years I have done no performance upgrades to my 3.0, so I can't offer any advice there. But if you want more power you can always 3.5 swap it. You can tell the wife it's cheaper to buy a new engine than a whole new car.
On a recent interstate trip in my 98 model automatic, some parts were driving into a head wind, delivered 29.5 MPG.
I don't know anybody that has done in-car valve job. A reasonably cared for VQ30 will go 400,000 miles. Unless there is some catastrophic failure, these engines really don't require much work outside of replacing the rubber and RTV that just goes with age.
The FSM recommends removing the upper oil pan (UOP) when the timing cover is removed. It makes seating and sealing the half moon seals easier when the UOP is removed. Also, the half moon seals get old and brittle so replacing front and rear half moons when removing the UOP may remedy some oil leaks, that is if those are leaking. I've done the UOP and half moon replacement. It's not bad if you can take your time. Most likely you will want to replace the center sub-frame bushings during the UOP job. I did the UOP and sub-frame bushings when I installed the Warpspeed Y-pipe. There are many members that are running the Warpspeed Y-pipe to delete the front cats for some HP gains. All this stuff is connected, so I try to leverage replacing a hard to access rubber items when I have other parts removed as part of the process.
HA!!H HA HA HA HA !!!!!!!!! LIES!!!!! FABRICATION AND NONSENSE!!!! if it can break it will, and i took awesome care of my max and at only 293,000 miles on the clock EVERYTHING took a $hit on me at the same time. and what i love most is that some parts as they age THROW NO CODES AT ALL!!! so, even with a scanner you can't be sure whats f'ed up or not sometimes. otherwise, great car.
Last edited by max ride 41; 05-01-2019 at 11:11 PM.
01-30-2017, 01:44 PM
