Jmaxima86

so just the other day I took the car to the dealership for an idle relearn which cost me $110 dollars for something that I obviously caused, not knowing I moved the butterfly on the throttle body and made everything go out of wack.... The verdict, idle relearn took but there were also a couple more codes that came up in which they advised me to get rid of the car because the repairs would cost over $4000 ,I looked at the guy and said "are you kidding me " I just bought this car how can that be possible, so needless to say my hopes for the car we're slowly diminished by the words of the these so called master mechanics at the stealership.... So here's the codes I'm dealing with at the moment : p0011 p0021 , p0300 , I also have a very small evap leak so p0442 came up along with p1456....and I'm also dealing with the horrid noise from the timing chain it does like a rattling noise above 2000 rpms hoping someone can she'd some light and restore my faith in the car

Reallyslowrio

The P0300 is a pending code for a misfire. Very common on these cars. There are many threads about testing coils as that is most likely the problem. Be careful with aftermarket coils as they will run fine, but still throw a check engine light.

I just fixed my P0442 and the accompanying P1456 with a "new" charcoal canister and evap solenoid. I first tried to just replace the solenoid, but I broke the canister. Went to a junkyard with a 10mm socket, extension, and a knife. Pulled the entire canister and valve as an assembly. Tested the Solenoid at the yard with a 12v battery and it worked great. Total cost, $12.

P0011 and P0021 are related as well. They have to do with the IVT solenoids. I doubt both of yours failed at the same time, so I would look into sensors that work with them. Crankshaft pos sensor, engine coolant temp sensor, camshaft position sensors.

I'm not sure if this site allows crossposting, but if you google Maxima FSM, you should be able to easily find the factory service manual. It will have testing procedures for each sensor. Usually you'll just need a multimeter to complete the tests.

Jmaxima86

Thanks a lot for the quick response man, I really appreciate you taking the time out to she'd some light on this very frustrating problem, I will deff look into all the things you mentioned and to think that the dealership was telling me to get rid of the car because it was going to cost over 3000 to fix the problems..... Have you experienced the rattling in the timing chain? It's also been driving me crazy.. I keep thinking I'm low on oil and I read somewhere that oil can also be the cause of the rattling because the tensioner is activated by oil pressure? If you have any ideas don't hesitate to let me know thanks again for the insight

Aj_max3.5se

Hello,

Rattling really cause by tensioner but if it's really loud while you driving your car then most likely you stretch the chain and it's slapping against guides. I had same issue but I would change tensioner first if noise go away, first thing I would change.

PowerTotheMax

When I first bought my 02 Maxima it made a rattling noise and had p0011 like you did. It turned out to be like 2.5 qts low on oil. I would check your oil level first if you haven't.

Jmaxima86

How long did you end up driving the car like that for ? And what exactly did you change the guides or tensioner? Thanks for the response

Jmaxima86

The thing is that this car is so hard to check the oil on, I can't ever get an accurate reading I usually do it in the morning but even still I have to guess , so I bought some fresh oil and a filter and will be changing the oil again, how many quarts do these engines take? Have you ever used the m1 105 filter by Mobil 1?

PowerTotheMax

I thought it was hard too but I kept trying and trying and eventually got a reading. A little between 4.5 to 5 qts is my guideline for oil on Maximas. I just keep checking the dipstick. I don't know, for me since I am always on top of my oil changes on all my vehicles, oil is just oil. Just don't use a fram filter.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

4.25 qts. Obviously a little more for bigger filters. I fit 4.75 with the pl14619 (don't bother with those other puny things, or pl10193 if you can't get the 14619).

M1-210 or 207 is nice and big (I assume you get mobil from the oil change deals).

PowerTotheMax

4.25? Guess I went a little over on mine.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Going a little over is fine. It's going to burn anyway M1-108 is puny along with the 110 (where 4.25 is derived from, I assume). 105 is much better, but might as well get the bigguns.

Jmaxima86

How's the fitment with the 14619? You have any leaking issues once installed or is it just the right size as far as screwing on? I was reading that people were using the m1 110 on the vq35de engines.... I bought a m1 108 today I'll have to exchange it for a 14619 ....do you get any rattling upon start up?

Jmaxima86

Is there such a thing as over filling these engines with oil, seems like everyone is adding either 4.75 to 5 quarts... I get the rattle from the timing chain but once I add a little more oil rattle seems to go away for a while and then comes back... Also any idea why the oil would get dirty so quick? It hasn't even been 3000 miles since the last oil change and my oil is dirty, i changed the pcv valve so far, i would do a engine flush but im a little skeptical about doing it to an engine with 122000 miles on it i dont want sludge to come off and cause a blockage somewhere ....or maybe even a leak

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Fitment is fine, it comes to the edge of the oil cooler/warmer. Clean the surface as that part will be dirty since the old filter doesn't sit there. You should never get rattling on startup unless your tensioner o-ring is bad or you're dangerously low on oil (zero rattle for me).

disclaimer for 3.0s: 14619 will only fit 3.5s, I believe. I assume the big mobils have a wider seal diameter, too. Check before using anything with a bigger seal!

Info on filters - Look at the size difference, those small filters are a joke (true that size isn't everything as the number of pleats may not linearly increase, but there's definitely a lot more surface area in the large filters).
http://oilfilterdata.com/index.php?v...y=0&sort0asc=1

Don't bother with group 3(+) oils. It's a waste of money when group IV is the same price.

Yes, you can overfill any engine easily. Too full and the crank will hit the oil and foam it, then you're sucking in air (say bye bye to bearings). I have no idea what the limit is. I'm sure .5 qt over will never hurt anything, though.

Jmaxima86

I'll deff give that 14619 a try, and as far as the rattling I meant timing chain rattling , it usually will rattle for a quick second, stop but then once I'm driving and the rpms get to around 2000 it'll start again, once I drive it for a while and it's fully warmed up it seems to go away, I've heard this rattle is pretty common on the 3.5s , I'll tell you one thing it sure is annoying and I feel like I'm driving a pos, as far a power nothing really changed I still have quite the power.... You think it could be oil related? My oil gets dirty quick, so I was going to do another oil change to see if that would help the situation... I also have the p0011 code which is related to dirty oil I guess

maxiiiboy

^^^+1 !!!
Yes, overfilling is bad - foam does not lubricate.
PowerToTheMax - you are ruining your car ......

maxinout93

Maybe check to see if one of your precast are rattling around. When the material inside gets broken it sounds similar to timing chain noise/ engine noise.

PowerTotheMax

Actually nope. There's definitely half a qt or a little more left in my garage from my previous oil change. A little over isn't gonna foam or my 4th gen would be dead. I check the dipstick after 4 qts anyway.

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

^^This^^
Tap the cats with a rubber mallet and listen for rattling inside.

I ran the M110 filter for years with no problems. I now run the NAPA Gold 1381. It's their version of the M110. The Silver version is also good. It's a lot cheaper than the Mobil1 and IMO just as good. We use them on some very high end cars at the shop.

I occasionally get a timing chain rattle on a cold start but it always goes away almost instantly. Others here have had good luck with using a heavier weight oil to deal with issues like this.

Forget the dealerships for ANYTHING other than recalls. They'll use Ni$$an parts for every repair and charge stupid high labor. Ni$$an parts are very expensive compared to aftermarket options which are just as good or very close. Some of the relearns and flashes take minutes and cost nothing but they still charge $100 plus. There's nothing Ni$$an can do that a well equipped independent shop can't. You just have to find one that has the diagnostic equipment to be dealer level on your car.