DTC P1400- Tried everything, any suggestions?
#1
DTC P1400- Tried everything, any suggestions?
According to the web it is my EGRC solenoid. When I test it with a volt meter it read 12 volts. When I apply 12 volts to the solenoid I can hear it clicking. I replaced my EGR valve thinking it was the problem, code came back. When checking the hose that goes to the EGR valve it does have vacuum. I cleaned out the EGR tube and noticed it was clogged at the top but not at the bottom. I'm am all out of ideas on what needs to be done. Could it be the CAT? I thought it would be a different code.My car has been due for smog and it was tested once and failed the NOX at 15mph and that has made me fix all of the above. Any other ideas on what I should do? It is a 96 I30.
#2
Just went through the entire Maxima forum and read that the vacuum lines to the solenoid may have been switched. Just cleared the code and swapped the lines just to see. Will be going for a long drive tonight to see if the code comes back up. The P1400 code did not cause the CEL to illuminate but it does show the code with a reader. Will update if the code comes back later tonight. Thank you all for reading.
#3
Most of the fellas here know about the effects of TCW-3 outboard oil added to you gasoline. It reduces your smog readings. Add 1 oz. for every 5 gallons of gas. For smog tests, run premium in your tank. I add it to my gas before tests and my last NOX reading was 29 ppm. IDK about you DTC code.
#4
So I finished with my smog on Wednesday and the tech failed me. The reason I failed was due to "Functional Check" the monitors for the CAT and my O2 sensors were not registering.
On Thursday, I went for a 30 minute drive to complete the drive cycle and the O2 monitor read that it was functioning.
Today... I went to the smog station to complete the test since he said only 1 fault is allowed on the functional test. He tested my car and it finally PASSED!!!
When exiting the station the CEL light came on with the same P1400 code! I would like to fix my problem but at least my car has passed smog. It will be another 2 years til I have to fix what I need but any help is appreciated.
Also, I am coming close on failing due to my HC(PPM) @ 15mph Max is 54 my reading was 53.
I will be checking this thread periodically and I hope any help will come through this forum. Thank you all in advanced for your future input!
On Thursday, I went for a 30 minute drive to complete the drive cycle and the O2 monitor read that it was functioning.
Today... I went to the smog station to complete the test since he said only 1 fault is allowed on the functional test. He tested my car and it finally PASSED!!!
When exiting the station the CEL light came on with the same P1400 code! I would like to fix my problem but at least my car has passed smog. It will be another 2 years til I have to fix what I need but any help is appreciated.
Also, I am coming close on failing due to my HC(PPM) @ 15mph Max is 54 my reading was 53.
I will be checking this thread periodically and I hope any help will come through this forum. Thank you all in advanced for your future input!
#6
If I recall correctly, I had this issue myself.
This occured shortly after I removed and replaced the thottle body.
I tried replacing solinoids. Or switching them.
they operated just fine if I attached a couple of feet of hose and appled power to the terminals as I sucked or blew on the hose. ( no double meaning intended, lol.)
So I knew I had good soliniods, but how about engine vaccuum. Nope, nope, till I followed the hose back to the middle hose under the throttle body.
I had cut that hose a wee bit short when I installed it. Which kinked the hose, and all engine vaccuum.
This occured shortly after I removed and replaced the thottle body.
I tried replacing solinoids. Or switching them.
they operated just fine if I attached a couple of feet of hose and appled power to the terminals as I sucked or blew on the hose. ( no double meaning intended, lol.)
So I knew I had good soliniods, but how about engine vaccuum. Nope, nope, till I followed the hose back to the middle hose under the throttle body.
I had cut that hose a wee bit short when I installed it. Which kinked the hose, and all engine vaccuum.
#7
If I recall correctly, I had this issue myself.
This occured shortly after I removed and replaced the thottle body.
I tried replacing solinoids. Or switching them.
they operated just fine if I attached a couple of feet of hose and appled power to the terminals as I sucked or blew on the hose. ( no double meaning intended, lol.)
So I knew I had good soliniods, but how about engine vaccuum. Nope, nope, till I followed the hose back to the middle hose under the throttle body.
I had cut that hose a wee bit short when I installed it. Which kinked the hose, and all engine vaccuum.
This occured shortly after I removed and replaced the thottle body.
I tried replacing solinoids. Or switching them.
they operated just fine if I attached a couple of feet of hose and appled power to the terminals as I sucked or blew on the hose. ( no double meaning intended, lol.)
So I knew I had good soliniods, but how about engine vaccuum. Nope, nope, till I followed the hose back to the middle hose under the throttle body.
I had cut that hose a wee bit short when I installed it. Which kinked the hose, and all engine vaccuum.
pic of said hose please, i'm looking for what's causing an 0505 code and am trying everything i can cause it's idling like crap at lights and start up until it's warm. still getting mild smoke at start up and a little gas smell.
#8
There are three hoses which attach to the bottom of the tb. Im talking about the middle hose. It is a vaccuum hose. Which supplies vaccuum to the solinoids and sensors. Make sure that it is not kinked.
by the way, the other two hoses supply warm coolant to the tb to prevent ice forming in the tb when its moist and 35F or do.
by the way, the other two hoses supply warm coolant to the tb to prevent ice forming in the tb when its moist and 35F or do.
#9
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