What to do with the wife's '95 SE
04-30-2018, 07:36 PM
#1
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What to do with the wife's '95 SE
So, my wife bought a '95 SE back in 2001 with 100k on it. She loves the car but we're approaching a point where we'll have to start doing things to it or let it go. I'd appreciate opinions from folks knowledgeable about these cars.
It now has 270k on it. Over the years it's had new axles, new a/c compressor and receiver drier, one injector, starter, MAS, water pump, and of course brakes and tires.
The engine itself has never been touched and still runs nice, although we have another injector starting to act up at idle. We've run Mobil 1 in it since she got it, and at the annual change (she only puts 5-6k per year on nowadays) it's still less than a quart low.
Still on original (as far as we know) alternator, clutch, and struts. I replaced rear shocks last fall (KYB). Original exhaust (flex connector has been replaced). 5-speed still shifts nice. Climate control, windows, power seat, mirrors and locks all work like new. Bose still sounds great but display has faded out. Tires are wearing great, and she got around 70k out of the Goodyears she had on it before the set that's on it now.
Leather is in very good condition, just a little wear on driver's seat seam and parking brake boot. Paint is original taupe/beige/non color and and still cleans up pretty well, although the trunk spoiler is faded out a little. There's a small amount of rust on each rear quarter right behind the tire - there but barely noticeable.
I say all this because basically the car looks, runs, and drives great (except for the currently balky injector) but has to be coming up on some expensive stuff. The clutch has to wear out eventually, and surely the exhaust and alternator won't last forever either.
If she decides on selling and upgrading to less miles, what do y'all think this car might be worth? It's definitely better than average. On the other hand, if it won't bring much maybe it's worth having the work done as it needs it. She has nothing against driving it another 100k if it will do it reliably, and she really loves driving this car. I don't have the time or place to do much besides minor stuff, but we have very good, trustworthy local independent shop that works on Nissan only.
Opinions will be appreciated.
It now has 270k on it. Over the years it's had new axles, new a/c compressor and receiver drier, one injector, starter, MAS, water pump, and of course brakes and tires.
The engine itself has never been touched and still runs nice, although we have another injector starting to act up at idle. We've run Mobil 1 in it since she got it, and at the annual change (she only puts 5-6k per year on nowadays) it's still less than a quart low.
Still on original (as far as we know) alternator, clutch, and struts. I replaced rear shocks last fall (KYB). Original exhaust (flex connector has been replaced). 5-speed still shifts nice. Climate control, windows, power seat, mirrors and locks all work like new. Bose still sounds great but display has faded out. Tires are wearing great, and she got around 70k out of the Goodyears she had on it before the set that's on it now.
Leather is in very good condition, just a little wear on driver's seat seam and parking brake boot. Paint is original taupe/beige/non color and and still cleans up pretty well, although the trunk spoiler is faded out a little. There's a small amount of rust on each rear quarter right behind the tire - there but barely noticeable.
I say all this because basically the car looks, runs, and drives great (except for the currently balky injector) but has to be coming up on some expensive stuff. The clutch has to wear out eventually, and surely the exhaust and alternator won't last forever either.
If she decides on selling and upgrading to less miles, what do y'all think this car might be worth? It's definitely better than average. On the other hand, if it won't bring much maybe it's worth having the work done as it needs it. She has nothing against driving it another 100k if it will do it reliably, and she really loves driving this car. I don't have the time or place to do much besides minor stuff, but we have very good, trustworthy local independent shop that works on Nissan only.
Opinions will be appreciated.
05-01-2018, 01:42 PM
#5
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
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Id say that it depends on who will be doing the labor.
The cost of having a lot of things done to it would exceed the value of the car, which might be worth 1000 to 1500.
The car sounds worth keeping if you can do most of the larger projects yourself.
The other consideration is about what to replace it with. What shape will that vehicle be in, what work does it need. Will it serve your purposeas well as the Maxima.
You might be able to aquire another 4th gen Maxima with much lower miles for 1500 or so.
The cost of having a lot of things done to it would exceed the value of the car, which might be worth 1000 to 1500.
The car sounds worth keeping if you can do most of the larger projects yourself.
The other consideration is about what to replace it with. What shape will that vehicle be in, what work does it need. Will it serve your purposeas well as the Maxima.
You might be able to aquire another 4th gen Maxima with much lower miles for 1500 or so.
05-01-2018, 06:58 PM
#6
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Id say that it depends on who will be doing the labor.
The cost of having a lot of things done to it would exceed the value of the car, which might be worth 1000 to 1500.
The car sounds worth keeping if you can do most of the larger projects yourself.
The other consideration is about what to replace it with. What shape will that vehicle be in, what work does it need. Will it serve your purposeas well as the Maxima.
You might be able to aquire another 4th gen Maxima with much lower miles for 1500 or so.
The cost of having a lot of things done to it would exceed the value of the car, which might be worth 1000 to 1500.
The car sounds worth keeping if you can do most of the larger projects yourself.
The other consideration is about what to replace it with. What shape will that vehicle be in, what work does it need. Will it serve your purposeas well as the Maxima.
You might be able to aquire another 4th gen Maxima with much lower miles for 1500 or so.
Plus we have a great Nissan-only shop owned by friends we've known for over 20 years.
As far as another Maxima, I'm sure she'd consider it, but she really, really loves her 5-speed. I'd say she qualifies for anything she wants if she can get 270k + out of a clutch, with plenty of in-town driving.
Last edited by Steve C.; 05-01-2018 at 07:08 PM.
05-02-2018, 10:08 AM
#7
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,979
Steve, I understand that a clutch job is around 1500 dollars. Which you dont need to spend yet.
Several members have driven enough to accumulate 350-400 thousand miles.
As long as the body is good, along with the engine, transmission and electrical system, the car is sound enough to drive a few more years.
A car which has been maintained well can be almost as reliable as a newer one.
Some people drive their Toyota Camry or Honda Accord to 500, 000 miles. Our cars should be capable of that as well.
If you could continue to drive 50,000 miles after clutch replacement, it's cost would be amortized.
Several members have driven enough to accumulate 350-400 thousand miles.
As long as the body is good, along with the engine, transmission and electrical system, the car is sound enough to drive a few more years.
A car which has been maintained well can be almost as reliable as a newer one.
Some people drive their Toyota Camry or Honda Accord to 500, 000 miles. Our cars should be capable of that as well.
If you could continue to drive 50,000 miles after clutch replacement, it's cost would be amortized.
05-02-2018, 05:33 PM
#8
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Steve, I understand that a clutch job is around 1500 dollars. Which you dont need to spend yet.
Several members have driven enough to accumulate 350-400 thousand miles.
As long as the body is good, along with the engine, transmission and electrical system, the car is sound enough to drive a few more years.
A car which has been maintained well can be almost as reliable as a newer one.
Some people drive their Toyota Camry or Honda Accord to 500, 000 miles. Our cars should be capable of that as well.
If you could continue to drive 50,000 miles after clutch replacement, it's cost would be amortized.
Several members have driven enough to accumulate 350-400 thousand miles.
As long as the body is good, along with the engine, transmission and electrical system, the car is sound enough to drive a few more years.
A car which has been maintained well can be almost as reliable as a newer one.
Some people drive their Toyota Camry or Honda Accord to 500, 000 miles. Our cars should be capable of that as well.
If you could continue to drive 50,000 miles after clutch replacement, it's cost would be amortized.
My friend that owns a Nissan/Infiniti shop talks about several of his customers with 4th gen cars that have 4 - 500,000 on them without major work. There aren't any new cars that turn either one of us on anyway, and she loves the car. If we pay for a repair once in a while, so what.
I figured up one time that our repair costs on that car have averaged out to about $15 / month. Pretty cheap car payment.
05-02-2018, 05:52 PM
#9
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,979
I'd suggest paying your friend to give the car a comprehensive inspection. You would gain some knowledge about its true condition, so that you can decide what to do.
Just curious... is your wife still driving with the original clutch at 270 k miles?
My car has 215 k on it . Ive had the car since 100k miles. I've driven mostly on the freeway and highway. I dont know if my clutch has every been replaced. I'm just curious about how long they can last.
Just curious... is your wife still driving with the original clutch at 270 k miles?
My car has 215 k on it . Ive had the car since 100k miles. I've driven mostly on the freeway and highway. I dont know if my clutch has every been replaced. I'm just curious about how long they can last.
05-02-2018, 07:49 PM
#10
Don't worry about it, the 4th and 5th gen are solid. In the last 9 months for the 2000 Maxima (Daily Driver) I have spent $130 on it. Used axle, used alternator, and 1 oil change. It uses oil slightly more than before, but still not enough to have to top it off before the next oil change. Rust is the only thing that's killing it.
09-25-2022, 06:03 AM
#11
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Well, we've kept the '95 mentioned so long ago in this thread, but I'm having a tough time solving an engine issue. Since the original post over four years ago the wife's put on about 12,000 miles. We've changed out the struts and replaced the alternator since my last post, but we have an intermittent drivability issue that's turned out to be a real booger. Hope some of you can help.
My sad story starts almost two years ago when I replaced the Wix oil filter during an oil change. The filter had bad threads and spewed oil all over the bottom of the engine as soon as I started it up. Replaced it with a good filter and another fill of Mobil 1, so that problem was solved. A new problem popped up, though, shortly after I took it to the car wash and hosed off the bottom of the oil pan and splash pan. Didn't think I got water where it shouldn't be, but evidently I was wrong, Turns out some water sprayed up and wetted the connection for the cam position sensor. Dried that out, but no joy. because it became hard to start, idling erratically, and running rough and surging at part throttle shortly afterwards.
So over the next several months, I checked all other connections, and gradually replaced, one at a time, the following:
Injectors
Cam position sensor
Coolant temp sensor
Idle air control valve
MAF sensor
Crank angle sensor.
Fuel filter
Air filter
Inspected / checked for cracks all the coil packs
The shop owner I mentioned cleaned (chemically) carbon off the valves and replaced a questionable connector. Everything we've done has seemed to help some. It starts instantly now at any temp, and runs like new most of the time. Still experiencing part throttle surging after startup, and occasional intermittent stumbling, but it's been pretty drivable.
A week ago, I made a 700 mile round trip in it, running 80 + most of the time and getting between 24 nd 27 mpg. Ran like new - very strong and smooth.
So the last couple of days it's gotten worse again - here's what it's doing:
> Surging at part throttle after startup (this is pretty consistent)
> Running rough around town (intermittently)
> At stoplights, and in the garage when I get home, it idles smoothly for a minute or two at about 900 rpm, then slowly drops down to a rough 600, then comes back up to a smooth 900 again, and cycles over and over again till I drive off or turn it off.
Sometimes, after it's warmed up, it'll lose some power and stumble a little, then take off like new again. When it's not doing it's funny thing it runs really strong.
We'd really like to keep this car, since she puts so few miles on it, It still looks good and drives really well. The Bose still sounds good, climate control works great, windows and locks all work, leather is still nice, and she's totally happy with it except for the issues I've mentioned here.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
My sad story starts almost two years ago when I replaced the Wix oil filter during an oil change. The filter had bad threads and spewed oil all over the bottom of the engine as soon as I started it up. Replaced it with a good filter and another fill of Mobil 1, so that problem was solved. A new problem popped up, though, shortly after I took it to the car wash and hosed off the bottom of the oil pan and splash pan. Didn't think I got water where it shouldn't be, but evidently I was wrong, Turns out some water sprayed up and wetted the connection for the cam position sensor. Dried that out, but no joy. because it became hard to start, idling erratically, and running rough and surging at part throttle shortly afterwards.
So over the next several months, I checked all other connections, and gradually replaced, one at a time, the following:
Injectors
Cam position sensor
Coolant temp sensor
Idle air control valve
MAF sensor
Crank angle sensor.
Fuel filter
Air filter
Inspected / checked for cracks all the coil packs
The shop owner I mentioned cleaned (chemically) carbon off the valves and replaced a questionable connector. Everything we've done has seemed to help some. It starts instantly now at any temp, and runs like new most of the time. Still experiencing part throttle surging after startup, and occasional intermittent stumbling, but it's been pretty drivable.
A week ago, I made a 700 mile round trip in it, running 80 + most of the time and getting between 24 nd 27 mpg. Ran like new - very strong and smooth.
So the last couple of days it's gotten worse again - here's what it's doing:
> Surging at part throttle after startup (this is pretty consistent)
> Running rough around town (intermittently)
> At stoplights, and in the garage when I get home, it idles smoothly for a minute or two at about 900 rpm, then slowly drops down to a rough 600, then comes back up to a smooth 900 again, and cycles over and over again till I drive off or turn it off.
Sometimes, after it's warmed up, it'll lose some power and stumble a little, then take off like new again. When it's not doing it's funny thing it runs really strong.
We'd really like to keep this car, since she puts so few miles on it, It still looks good and drives really well. The Bose still sounds good, climate control works great, windows and locks all work, leather is still nice, and she's totally happy with it except for the issues I've mentioned here.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Last edited by Steve C.; 09-25-2022 at 06:16 PM.
09-25-2022, 07:11 AM
#12
A couple/few things that could be contributors and you didn’t mention above …
- You indicate that the crankshaft position sensor was replaced. Don’t forget there are two. Were both replaced? If not, look into this.
- I’d suggest either replacing, or at least checking and adjusting as needed, the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS).
- I’d also suggest replacing the Intake Air Temperature Sensor (IAT). I’m not sure what intake setup you’ve got so this might take a little tweaking, as relates to sensor location, if you’re running an aftermarket setup but a new IAT might be a good idea.
- The MAF can always be a lingering issue and aftermarket replacements (depending on the manufacturer) can be unpredictable and a bit undependable. Keep this in mind also.
Have any DTCs been generated/stored? If so, what are they?
- You indicate that the crankshaft position sensor was replaced. Don’t forget there are two. Were both replaced? If not, look into this.
- I’d suggest either replacing, or at least checking and adjusting as needed, the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS).
- I’d also suggest replacing the Intake Air Temperature Sensor (IAT). I’m not sure what intake setup you’ve got so this might take a little tweaking, as relates to sensor location, if you’re running an aftermarket setup but a new IAT might be a good idea.
- The MAF can always be a lingering issue and aftermarket replacements (depending on the manufacturer) can be unpredictable and a bit undependable. Keep this in mind also.
Have any DTCs been generated/stored? If so, what are they?
09-25-2022, 04:13 PM
#13
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Long Island
Posts: 1,566
You never mentioned Coil Packs? EVAP components? EGR Tube clogged with Carbon?
All Injectors? From where? Chinese New? OUCH! Rebuilt OEM give such better results, especially long term.
Sometimes when taking so much off to get to the injectors, a small vacuum leak is created. So many old cracking vacuum lines. So many gaskets that did their time.
Tb above also mentioned many of the other possibilities!
Get into the trunk and neutralize that rust around the rear wheel wells!
Hope this helps!
All Injectors? From where? Chinese New? OUCH! Rebuilt OEM give such better results, especially long term.
Sometimes when taking so much off to get to the injectors, a small vacuum leak is created. So many old cracking vacuum lines. So many gaskets that did their time.
Tb above also mentioned many of the other possibilities!
Get into the trunk and neutralize that rust around the rear wheel wells!
Hope this helps!
09-26-2022, 07:56 AM
#14
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- You indicate that the crankshaft position sensor was replaced. Don’t forget there are two. Were both replaced? If not, look into this.
Not sure where the second one is located. I know I do only have one cam position sensor.
- I’d suggest either replacing, or at least checking and adjusting as needed, the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS).
I'm not sure where that is located.
- I’d also suggest replacing the Intake Air Temperature Sensor (IAT). I’m not sure what intake setup you’ve got so this might take a little tweaking, as relates to sensor location, if you’re running an aftermarket setup but a new IAT might be a good idea.
Not sure of the location of that either.
- The MAF can always be a lingering issue and aftermarket replacements (depending on the manufacturer) can be unpredictable and a bit undependable. Keep this in mind also.
Have any DTCs been generated/stored? If so, what are they?[/QUOTE]
Not sure.
I got my little sister to video startup, cold in town, highway, and warm in town driving. I'll post links after she gets them on utube. Might give you all some clues.
Not sure where the second one is located. I know I do only have one cam position sensor.
- I’d suggest either replacing, or at least checking and adjusting as needed, the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS).
I'm not sure where that is located.
- I’d also suggest replacing the Intake Air Temperature Sensor (IAT). I’m not sure what intake setup you’ve got so this might take a little tweaking, as relates to sensor location, if you’re running an aftermarket setup but a new IAT might be a good idea.
Not sure of the location of that either.
- The MAF can always be a lingering issue and aftermarket replacements (depending on the manufacturer) can be unpredictable and a bit undependable. Keep this in mind also.
Have any DTCs been generated/stored? If so, what are they?[/QUOTE]
Not sure.
I got my little sister to video startup, cold in town, highway, and warm in town driving. I'll post links after she gets them on utube. Might give you all some clues.
09-26-2022, 08:39 AM
#15
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The exhaust flex pipe just started leaking so the audio is louder than normal. The seat belt light is on, and the check engine light has been on more than off for 21 years now.
Cold start.
Warming up:
Getting into it:
Going home:
Cold start.
Warming up:
Getting into it:
Going home:
Last edited by Steve C.; 09-26-2022 at 09:37 PM.
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QuakerJ
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
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