3.5 Swap Takeoff Squeal and/or shake
#1
3.5 Swap Takeoff Squeal
The shake was just me adjusting to the stronger clutch
3.5 swapped car manual transmission, When taking off from a dead stop to 1st or sometimes when I shift into second and less commonly third I get a EEK squeal noise right at the very end of the clutch travel, even when i try slow takeoffs. Length of squeal correlates with the speed of release. Cold or warm wet or dry. Noise isn't 100% of the time but 90% and it doesn't seem like I have any influence over when it does it even on the slowest possible takeoff it will do it.
This car sat for 2 years before i bought it, and the clutch line wasn't able to work even momentarily after trying to bleed it so i replaced it with a stainless steel 1 piece line. I did read that leaking clutch fluid onto the ?flywheel? can cause an issue like this. I have no experience with a clutch/transmission internals but I may be learning soon.
I have tightened power steering belt and the drive belt with no change. Just today I realized while the car was idling (trying to pinpoint a rear header leak) that the power steering pulley wobbles pretty harshly, idk if this is from tightening it or the pulley/pump going bad. Looking into replacing the pump so i don't have to deal with leaks or replacing it down the road
3.5 swapped car manual transmission, When taking off from a dead stop to 1st or sometimes when I shift into second and less commonly third I get a EEK squeal noise right at the very end of the clutch travel, even when i try slow takeoffs. Length of squeal correlates with the speed of release. Cold or warm wet or dry. Noise isn't 100% of the time but 90% and it doesn't seem like I have any influence over when it does it even on the slowest possible takeoff it will do it.
This car sat for 2 years before i bought it, and the clutch line wasn't able to work even momentarily after trying to bleed it so i replaced it with a stainless steel 1 piece line. I did read that leaking clutch fluid onto the ?flywheel? can cause an issue like this. I have no experience with a clutch/transmission internals but I may be learning soon.
I have tightened power steering belt and the drive belt with no change. Just today I realized while the car was idling (trying to pinpoint a rear header leak) that the power steering pulley wobbles pretty harshly, idk if this is from tightening it or the pulley/pump going bad. Looking into replacing the pump so i don't have to deal with leaks or replacing it down the road
Last edited by Violator; 06-21-2018 at 07:40 PM.
#3
Light accelerations I just stopped and rolled 15 times on the street and I couldn't help but get a squeal half of the time. I'm trying to come off the clutch nice and smooth and I still get a squeal and or shudder 50% of the time like I wasn't smooth enough with the clutch but this isn't my first rodeo I've got a good touch when it comes to the clutch
Last edited by Violator; 05-12-2018 at 10:23 AM.
#4
What' your idle speed?
Do you shift at somewhat high rpm then engage the clutch a bit harshly?
Will the increase in HP take a litthe getting used to?
I take it on faith that you installed your clutch correctly.
Do you shift at somewhat high rpm then engage the clutch a bit harshly?
Will the increase in HP take a litthe getting used to?
I take it on faith that you installed your clutch correctly.
#5
The idle speed is 700 or 1200, the brown idle speed connector is partially broken on the part that actually locks it fully in place so if I drive it down the road it becomes partially disconnected, as soon as I push the connector down with my thumb you can't even tell it moved but the idle goes right to 700 and will stay there until you drive it down the road and it will be back at 1200 until I put a little pressure on the connector again.
EDIT: this TPS issue was actually due to the metal TPS piece that spins having too much contact with the peice against it to the throttle body causing it to stick and the pressure on the connector was just enough to push the tps away and unstick it
Last edited by Violator; 06-21-2018 at 07:43 PM.
#8
Deflection with moderate finger pressure should be about half an inch.
Does the sound occur more after rain, or when it is dry outside?
Is it sound worse with the A/C on, or off?
#12
I got the guys number so I'll send him a text and see if he remembers anything about the mounts. I did tighten the belt with no change. might be getting some t-storms tomorrow to see if wet conditions affect it i can't recall off the top of my head
#16
How did you fix that? It's a UDP crank pulley
#18
#20
Power steering pulley, oddly enough the belt doesn't seem to be worn at all. I recently tried tightening it but using my swivel from underneath made the tensioning bolt want to nudge forward on that bracket it's on and I wasn't sure how tight the belt was supposed to be so I just tightened it as much as I could with a swivel before the bolt got to the point it would come unseated from that bracket. I wasn't sure if it would be more cost and time effective to just replace the pump now (140k on the body 70k on the 3.5 motor unsure if it was replaced or reused)
#21
Power steering pulley, oddly enough the belt doesn't seem to be worn at all. I recently tried tightening it but using my swivel from underneath made the tensioning bolt want to nudge forward on that bracket it's on and I wasn't sure how tight the belt was supposed to be so I just tightened it as much as I could with a swivel before the bolt got to the point it would come unseated from that bracket. I wasn't sure if it would be more cost and time effective to just replace the pump now (140k on the body 70k on the 3.5 motor unsure if it was replaced or reused)
#23
We have:
1) No seal leaks - this tells me the shaft is staying put inside the pump.
2) No noise - this tells me there is no excessive wear on the vanes or fluid delivery problem.
3) A wobbling pulley - the pump has splines the should mate up with same pattern in the pulley to keep this from happening.
If the pulley is wobbling, then I would remove it and inspect the splines to see if somehow the pulley was installed and tightened with a spline mismatch that later worked loose.
Here's a picture of a pump shaft with splines.
1) No seal leaks - this tells me the shaft is staying put inside the pump.
2) No noise - this tells me there is no excessive wear on the vanes or fluid delivery problem.
3) A wobbling pulley - the pump has splines the should mate up with same pattern in the pulley to keep this from happening.
If the pulley is wobbling, then I would remove it and inspect the splines to see if somehow the pulley was installed and tightened with a spline mismatch that later worked loose.
Here's a picture of a pump shaft with splines.
Last edited by CS_AR; 06-23-2018 at 07:32 AM.
#24
We have:
1) No seal leaks - this tells me the shaft is staying put inside the pump.
2) No noise - this tells me there is no excessive wear on the vanes or fluid delivery problem.
3) A wobbling pulley - the pump has splines the should mate up with same pattern in the pulley to keep this from happening.
If the pulley is wobbling, then I would remove it and inspect the splines to see if somehow the pulley was installed and tightened with a spline mismatch that later worked loose.
Here's a picture of a pump shaft with splines.
1) No seal leaks - this tells me the shaft is staying put inside the pump.
2) No noise - this tells me there is no excessive wear on the vanes or fluid delivery problem.
3) A wobbling pulley - the pump has splines the should mate up with same pattern in the pulley to keep this from happening.
If the pulley is wobbling, then I would remove it and inspect the splines to see if somehow the pulley was installed and tightened with a spline mismatch that later worked loose.
Here's a picture of a pump shaft with splines.
There's a little wear on the crank pulley end of the belt but could that just be from the pulley wobbling?
Last edited by Violator; 06-23-2018 at 05:18 PM.
#25
If you have belt wear on the crank pulley edge, is the crank pulley separating? As crank pulleys get older, the rubber damper separates causing the outer pulley belt ring to rub against the power steering belt.
You can see how the one on the right separated and the outer pulley ring is shiny from rubbing against the PS belt.
You can see how the one on the right separated and the outer pulley ring is shiny from rubbing against the PS belt.
#26
It's a UDP pulley and I don't believe it has that many miles on it. my first objective is to sort out the power steering pulley issue my air gun doesn't seem to budge the crank pulley and I'll have to go and get a breaker bar
sorry I put this picture on the last post idk what happened. Best pic I could get with the fender/wheel well in the way
sorry I put this picture on the last post idk what happened. Best pic I could get with the fender/wheel well in the way
Last edited by Violator; 06-23-2018 at 05:19 PM.
#27
Every time I try tightening the belt the tensioner bolt wants to walk off the bracket. The 14mm on the back of the pump wont break loose but does move the entire pump away from or towards the crank pulley tightening/loosening with enough force. After that and tightening the tensioner bolt to the point before it starts to walk off the bracket the belt has 3/8-1/2in of play when I press on it
Edit: pulley isn't wobbling , but squeel still persists. Still not sure the pump should pivot like it did when I tried breaking that 14mm "lock bolt" on the back of the pump, but for now my pulley isn't wobbling so we'll chalk it up to a loose belt as the cause of the wobbling.
Last edited by Violator; 06-26-2018 at 03:59 PM.
#28
My clutch was just glazed, I had no issues with slipping but engaging on lower gears made it squeal. I fixed it by putting on the parking brake revving to 4k and engaging the clutch right to the point of the rpms starting to drop and held it for about 5seconds and afterwards the noise was gone. It's a cheap eBay XTD stage 3 clutch, maybe this will save someone else some trouble in the future.
Last edited by Violator; 07-02-2018 at 04:28 PM.
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