I have had the 300zx bbk setup for the past 5 years on my 96, but recently my calipers started getting noisy and sticking and were ringing my pads, I got rebuilt calipers and installed them with new rotors and pads in the front and installed new brake calipers on the back along with new pads and rotors as well, all went well, but I have no pressure in them, i have bled them numerous times with the correct order, but no matter how much I bleed it I can not get the proper pressure in them, its still dropping to the floor and barely stops,

anyone go thru this? Any other method i should try?

Btw, if I'm parallel parking than theres pressure and I can stop well plus the pedal is tight, but if i literally drive up 100 feet and try to stop its sinks back to the floor and again I have no pressure,

If you're 110% there's no air then I think your master is giving up the ghost

All of your bleeder screws in the upright position?

Yeah all blenders are at the top, I was thinking abt the master going bad, but than it was perfectly fine before I put these new ones on and also why develop pressure while sitting only and not while driving,

I was thinking 9f trying this next https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/vacuum-pump-brake-bleed-kit/oem-vacuum-pump/70116_0_0?&searchText=25136

Yo chris wats up bro, long time brother, how is everything?

single bleeder, I have done this bbk install for so many guys and for my own car as well, all I did was swap out calipers and put new pads and rotors, I didnt expect to have this issue, and also everything was fully functional, no issue with the brake booster or master cylinder

Maybe my new 300zx calipers are bad? Btw there is fluid coming when I bleed them both, so there's no blockage or anything like that

I forgot to mention one MAJOR thing, ok so while I took off the old front calipers, all the fluid drain out thru the front lines and when I sat in the car I accidentally pressed the brake pedal down, COULD this be the reason theres still air in the system or in the master cylinder?

Anyway to do it while it's on the car,?

YES!

You need plugs and bleeder hoses that get shipped with a new or rebuilt Master Cylinder. Or an aftermarket kit. They are quite primitive and yet work well.

Untap each of the two brake lines from the M/C and install the bleeder plugs with the clear hoses. Long enough to feed to the top and deep into the M/C fill opening. Top off the M/C with brake fluid. Keep pumping slowly until you see no air in the clear tubes cycling back into the M/C. Make sure you have the tubes secured so they can't pull out the top of the M/C as you cycle the fluid through. the end always has to be submersed in brake fluid so air can't get sucked back in after you let off the pedal. Re tap the two braked line feeds back into the M/C and start the bleeding process all over again until all air is out of the lines and calipers.

^^^^thanks bro, I did the same concept but with bottle/cup supplied with a vacuum bleeder kit, I connected each caliper bleeder screw tightly with a clear tube and I let gravity drain it out and kept filling the master so ur doesn't run dry, I did this with each caliper,, I got into the car and I had tons of pressure on the brake pedal, firm and tight and no sinking of the pedal while in park

BUT, after I drove half a block and pressed the brake I lost all pressure, couldnt stop at all, pedal sank to the floor, I than got back to parking it up and I had pressure again, pressure exists only when stopped with multiple pumps and keeps pressure while idle or parked,


​Prior to doing that I did this, I let abt 2 inch of brake fluid drip onto the cup and than submerged the tube into the fluid while having my brother pump the pedal, and only fluid came out, no bubbles at all
​​​​​​
I'm assuming at this point my master is ruined possibly due to pumping my brake pedal while it was empty,

Gravity feed DOESN'T bleed the M/C. The M/C has to be bled FIRST before addressing the rest. And once you disconnect the lines and bleed the M/C as I described above, you need to gravity feed ((or whatever method you prefer) the rest again.

If after that the pedal sinks and/or other typical indicators.... Time for a new M/C.

Mine went not too long ago. You can rebuild it with a kit and a honing device (Amazon). I just bought a new Centric (model year specific w/ 4 wheel ABS) for $65 delivered. Hopefully it will last another 208K.

Just know when buying a new M/C, many out there are the exact same thing at several manufacturers. Find the one you want and buy the same model from the reasonable cost manufacturer. Warranties SUCK on most new or rebuilt. Check reviews thoroughly.

Happy Stopping!.

Oh, and let me know when you get both front fenders and a bumper cover for a 99 SE in real nice shape in Sterling Mist. Maybe the hood too if the price is right. (mine's peeling)

You can use one of these high powered systems in the link below and do a power bleed. We had to use this on the 99 after my kid converted it to use G35 calipers and rotors.

https://maxima.org/forums/fluids-lub...ng-system.html

Hey, so new master cylinder was bench bled and installed, but still same exact problem is happening,

There's a Bleeding Procedure that needs to be followed.

Right Rear first, Then Front Left....

Then...

Left Rear, Then Right Front.

The reason M/Cs have two compartments, is if one line blows, the other side can still work. And the best results are when opposite sides, front and rear are assigned to a compartment. Bleed with that in mind.

retry while engine is running if it helps.

Please tell me how that would make a difference.

Hey thanks for all who replied I finally figured out wat the issue was, the problem here was the centering rings, my firstset of rotors were already redrilled to maxima spec, but the new ones weren't so I decided to use the centering rings but no matter wat I did they just never sat quite right on the hub therefore causing this entire problem, I put the old rotors on with all the other new parts and I have perfect braking power, sorry I wasn't able to update thisearlier, ,