QuakerJ

For those that are keeping their Maxima on the road for a LONG time or high miles, what problems are you encountering?

Reason I ask, is that mine ('96 GLE) is over 250k now, and the issues are piling up, don't know if it's worth the headache to make major repairs, or just keep the car going long as I can. Body and interior are in great condition for its age.

Issues:
ATF leak (currently slow) from what appears to be the bellhousing (tranny input seal I suspect)
Motor mounts are terrible (most if not all need replacing)
Power steering fluid leak somewhere (slow, but might get worse)
Too many ECU codes for my liking-- EGRC valve/solenoid (I have ripped the engine to the bones a year ago, replaced / cleaned / inspected all possible EGR components / hoses to no avail), Speed sensor code (even though my speedo works fine), O2 sensor heater circuit code, serial data error code, then the most recent one is an EVAP code, purge solenoid sensor something or the other.

None of the codes seem to affect driveability in any way. I still get 25 mpg average and the car is faster than most on the road today. Most things in the engine bay are a nightmare to work on (other than plugs, I'll give Nissan that) so I'm hesitant to tackle anything major when I know another problem might crop up at any time.

Not asking for the standard response which would be "you'll have to decide," but rather, what has been your experience keeping your older Maxima on the road? Do you fix every little thing that comes up, or just keep the vehicle on the road? Anyone have to do an engine / trans pull or something major and if so, was it worth it? Any comments, suggestions, past experience would be appreciated.

maximaxi

96 I30 with 280k+ here, and I have had several problems over the past 40k: (I bought the car with 250k)
Rusted radiator support
MAF
TPS
valve cover gasket
struts and various suspension pieces
2 alternators
starter
door lock actuator
the license plate light bracket rusted
the wiring to the tail lights shorted, cost about $150 for replacement
the biggest problem by far is RUST!

Sometimes my car also loses coolant. The radiator, cap and upper and lower hoses were all replaced along with the rad support.

Transmissions aren't usually problematic on these cars, and leaks are relatively rare even with high miles.

Check your radiator support. Is it rotten? Rusty radiator supports are VERY common on these cars, even in places not normally known to rust. A rusted out radiator support will mimic transmission or motor mount problems. In fact, one of the motor mounts connects to the rad support.

Oxygen sensors are wear items, so a bad o2 sensor isn't a huge cause concern, and they are cheap and easy to replace.

I have that slow power steering leak as well, and I am also losing coolant.

I am looking for another car soon. I wish I hadn't done the radiator support and the struts because the price I paid for all that could've gotten me a newer car with less rust and better mpg

If you do need a radiator support, and decide to replace it, ONLY use the OEM support from the dealer! It will cost you about $200. A body shop will charge $600 to install it. I also elected to replace the radiator and hoses at the same time, since my radiator was leaking (and it has to be removed in order to replace the support anyway). The radiator and associated hardware was another $200. The struts were another $200, plus alignment, and a few other suspension pieces.

JvG

I had emissions issues like yours. I had removed and cleaned the throttle valve. There are three hoses under there. The middle one supplies vacuum to operate the emissions stuff. Mine was kinked. So no vacuum to the system. Codes and frustration followed. Till I noticed the kink in the hose from the tb to the next item in the system, which is a vacuum valve of some kind.

Your car has issues. Several of them. That's normal. You can fix them. As long as the engone and transfer work, the car might be worth keeping.

Ask your self...... how much would a replacement car cost, which issues would it have, and would it be any better than the car you have.

CS_AR

Just give it a mid-life refresh and keep it rolling for another 200,000 miles.

Bonka

iTrader: (13)

If the body is in good shape with minimal rust or less I would be inclined to fix all the issues. These cars tend to have the same minor but annoying issues that creep up, though rarely large problems.

I'm nearing 250k on my I30 and only EVAP codes are keeping the CEL on which I haven't found any time for. Have all the same issues as mentioned: rusty wheel arches, radiator support, leaking fluid (power steering, oil, coolant) - all common 4G issues.

I'd do preventative maintenance on key items if you're tearing down to the block: intake manifold gaskets, fuel injectors, seals, EGR, just so everything is new since you're in there anyway.

For me, body condition dictates my effort level. If it crosses my threshold point, I'll continue to maintain the car so it drives safely and well, but won't go out of my way to fix minor issues (like my slightly sticky speedometer needle). I mean, it took me a few months to finally get down to tighten up my e-brake cable.

dbaray

95naSTA

iTrader: (10)

220k on my i30.

It's a lot easier to say what I didn't replace:
brake/fuel lines
rear suspension bushings
headliner
glass
passenger doors
trunk/hood
driver's side front fender

BransAm

My Max doesn't have the miles that most of you guys have at 201K but what i tend to do with issues is i address them when they come up and not wait too long.
I may not address it right then but i make it my business to research and get ready to repair whatever comes up at the time. From my past cars i have done that as well and
for me that's what keeps them going. Financially i know it may not be as easy but its just one of those things. I'm very picky anyway so i have to do that for my OCD.
I have a friend with a 5gen and i told him years ago he needed to replace his valve cover gaskets because they were leaking. Well..... Id say... 3 years later which would be now he comes
by to visit and i smell that oil and it is actually leaking on the driveway now bad. Well....... what can i say. LOL

Sorry for the rant.

M in KC

388K 1007 SE. The achilles heel of this gen max is the lower rad support. Everything else is pretty typical wear or age related at this point. Sure I've done nearly complete front and rear suspension rebuilds, a couple of starters, wiper motors, an alternator, a couple A/C compressors, water pump, evap purge valve, MAF, valve cover gaskets yada, yada yada. Fix things as they fail and you don't have what appears to be an insurmountable mountain of issues to wade through. I know easier said than done right. In the end it's a cost benefit question that you must answer, is it worth your time and money to fix and repair or start fresh with something else. Much of your answer I suspect evolves around your ability or willingness to make as many of the repairs yourself to minimize labor costs. Some folks are handier than others or have more access to help than others when they know they are out of their leagues. These VG30 mills are one of the best, most reliable lumps Nismo ever put out. What other 20+ year old cars can still meet OEM performance specs. Oh wait I have one other car older than can run its original fuel economy numbers our '94 5SFE Camry, another nearly bullet-proof mill from Japan. If I tried I could knock down 30 mpg in our '97SE on the highway and smiling all the way.

JoshG

155k miles. dealing with a p0300 code right now. had injectors stuck open and fixed that, both o2 sensors replaced, new spark plugs in the rear. runs smoothly on the highway, coming to a stop, but in idle it misses sometimes but not as bad as before after fixing all the issues. any idea on this guys?? the cel remains solid now when driving. and no more flashing... before it would flash non stop while driving, hesitate, bog and misfire like crazy.

Jaehblue3

iTrader: (1)

'99 Maxima SE with 315,000 miles, and replaced:
shocks
struts
starter
alternator(2)
a/c compressor
p/s pump and lines
motor mounts
abs sensors
front wheel bearing (3)
axles
rear hubs
radiator
radiator cooling fan motors, both
transmission (6 speed now)
evac mode motor and temp select motor
rear calipers (twice)
rear rotors
ignition coils (twice)
valve cover gaskets
oil pressure sensor
knock sensor
neutral to back up switch
Map sensor/solenoid switch
oxygen sensors
front strut bushings
spark plugs (maint)
clock
drivers side interior door panel
brake cylinder
clutch cylinder and line
clutch (before swap)
.............I think that's about it

Maxie40

1995 Maxima SE 275,093 miles
Rust on one of the spoiler mounts
Rust on rear wheel arches (mud guards came off)
Replaced fuel injectors (huge money)
Replaced exhaust system
Steering pump (going bad after 1 year, slow leak)
Rear passenger door won't open- door actuator went bad (even dealer could not get it to work) cannot find replacement actuator
Regular oil changes
Brakes changed every 4-5 years (thank goodness for ceramic pads)
About to replace water pump
Still gets 23-24 MPG and kicks butt on the highway

chop_sooie

Put this on my 99 Maxima approx 5 months ago:



Then I sold it for my 02 Maxima I am currently driving which, while a decent car, just doesn't seem to have the same build quality.

QuakerJ

Just to update my original post, my Maxima has crossed 265k with no further trouble or any issues getting worse. I can't discern any more leaking from the transmission, perhaps that was a fluke when I noticed it wet down there. Power steering isn't leaking any measurable amount, I just notice the hoses by the PS fluid reservoir wet. Right now the biggest issues are the codes which I mentioned, which still are not affecting driveability, motor mounts, and the AC compressor has noisy bearings which I've lived with for a couple years now-- AC still works fine, you just hear the pulley turning while the engine is running which is annoying because it makes it sound like something is wrong with the engine! Noise goes away when I turn the AC on (engage compressor) so it's definitely that.

Otherwise the car keeps driving... and driving.. and driving. I think I will spend some time with this nice weather tackling the problems that I can-- I do all my vehicle work myself; if there's something I can't do it's time to consider moving onto something else. Fortunately I don't see that happening at least for awhile!

Ramosnumber1

400k!!! I'm impressed. What kind of issues did you find yourself with as you approached that magic number? Is it the original engine/trans?

Tony Two-Tone

Whoa!

chop_sooie

I didn't really have any problems engine or transmission wise. It had an oil leak so I poured Bar's Leak in and it seemed to help. I bought it for $300 from Goodwill with approx. 320k on it. I really don't know if the engine and transmission were original to the car-- the local Nissan dealer said they were but I have no proof.

Other things like the AC went out, and I had the classic NATS immobilizer issue where the car would not start. Those were the main expenses-- $600 for the AC and $250 for the immobilizer repair (after the local dealership tried to say the whole system and ECU would need to be replaced to the tune of $2200-- I had a local car locksmith fix it for me.)

madoka

I have 409K on my 95 Maxima. I figure it's going to cost me $2-5K every year to keep her running, so I mentally brace for that.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

you guys KNOW what i've done and been through with my max, no need to list all the parts. i'm at 294,000 right now and it would be more except she sat for the last year or so with multiple problems. probably put close to 4k into maxy in the last 18 months, 1,000 was body work and paint.

John Marrone

This car has power and has run strong and smooth for too long but just started encountering a slew of probs over the last 20k.
People encourage me to get rid of it when I take it to the shop, and its insulting because while its got miles its in good condition and I love this car.
Its starting to overheat - I looked in the radiator and theres a lot of rust - and the fluid is dark and oily but Im not sure if thats because of the rust or not.
It mostly only overheats when pushed to keep up on mountain hwy inclines here in upstate NY.
The exhaust is also detached again from the manifold at the engine because the exhaust pipe rides kinda low and the hangers seem to snag things when theres short clearance, pulling on the unit.
Other than that Im really psyched seeing these higher mile counts because I plan on putting work into it - the engine seems strong.

JvG

You better drain the coolant. Replace the radiator with a new one for less than 100 dollars for parts.

Or your engine will overheat and die this summer.

PH98I30

^^^^ Agree. Also, with those kind of miles I would get a new thermostat.

Tony Two-Tone

Just crossed 200K in mine a couple of weeks ago. She definitely needs a few things but still running strong.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

My instrument cluster broke at 380K and I've driven it for 6 months so I'm close to 400K myself just stuck another instrument cluster in today reading 197K...I really wanted to fix my original unit but too much to do, too little time to do it!