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The voltage regular printed circuit board inside the alternator is the only thing in the car that decides what voltage the alternator will produce. It seems yours has exceeded its lifespan.
What year and model Max do you have? It seems that Hitachi has different model Alternators (rebuilt only) but they are the OEM alternators that came with the car. My OEM lasted 170K. Then two NEW Boschs, last one less than 3K miles.
Screw that... I went with a Hitachi rebuild ALR0011 (99 SE) and got it for a steal $165 because of mistakes JC Whitney made. I've seen these ~$400. Shop for the best price for the RIGHT one for your car. Maybe it matters more than we know why there are differences.
Autozone does list their DLG13284 (whats in the car now) for this application.
Looking at AZ’s website...I dont recall paying a core charge when I purchased this originally, a core charge is often not assessed on a “new” part. Im already on my 2nd AZ alternator...
maybe try and locate a used hitachi one off eBay or the junkyard. Could be a gamble but may pay off. The oem unit is pretty durable as long as it isn't oiled up.
thats a link to the Hitachi LR1100711BAM ($184.79). That particular Hitachi is listed by RockAuto for some Maximas - but not my 98 i30 particularly. Which is not to say its not Best - I just dont understand the reasoning for mentioning that particular one instead of:
Hitachi ALR0006 ($167.79) or the
Hitachi ALR0011 ($262.89)
There are three different Hitachis credibly described as Correct for 96-99 Maximas...how to discern which one is correct?
Since you don't have an I30t, the regular I30 is right there with a 98 GLE. The ALR0011 is for the SE and I30t.
I have a better idea. Call Hitachi Direct in California on Monday and speak with a technical support guy. That's what I did.
All three will work The ALR0011 and ALR006 both have the original part number for both the Maxima and I30 as a cross reference. The ALR0011 when reading the additional info is directly referenced to the SE and the LR1100711BAM is directly referenced to the GXE and GLE. BTW, the prices listed return you $45 when you send back the core.
I have no idea why there are 3 different part numbers other than maybe some are 125 amps and the ALR0011 is 110 amps. The LR1100711BAM might even be 100 amps. The Hitachi Tech can do a deeper dive to the real facts! Start there. Rock auto has the best prices after core returns, but shop around by delivered part number after you decide which is for YOUR car.
Hope this helps if you decide you've had enough with the auto parts chain offerings. Good luck. This is really annoying, I know. If they say get any, go for the ALR0011. They do an excellent job re manufacturing them to new again.
I have a better idea. Call Hitachi Direct in California on Monday and speak with a technical support guy. That's what I did.
There is no "Hitachi Auto Parts" number listed on the Interwebs. I have tried, and failed, to reach Hitachi in California by telephone. The best I got was a girl's voicemail greeting from "Tarrytown, New York".
I put a rebuilt Napa alternator in my I30 that lasted only 10 months. I went to a junkyard and found a rebuilt Hitachi and put it on. It's been on for 6 years now and working strong. Replacing these is such a b!tch, you don't want to keep having to do it.
Did you leave her your number and ask if she's using Tinder to hook up? LOL
This is where I called and asked for technical support for Alternators for Nissan/Infinity. You're almost there!
Originally Posted by reallywildstuff
There is no "Hitachi Auto Parts" number listed on the Interwebs. I have tried, and failed, to reach Hitachi in California by telephone. The best I got was a girl's voicemail greeting from "Tarrytown, New York".
$260 isn't bad for a new dealer alternator considering the amount of years they last. This is assuming the issue is definitely the alternator, of course.
I made contact by phone with Hitachi in CA. There remains one unanswered question ("which Infiniti part number was in the car originally?") and I am expecting a call back re: that detail.
Summary: the most expensive Rock Auto unit (the ALR-0011) is a) 110 amps and b) $9 MORE expensive ($262.89 minus $45 core charge = $217.89) than what may or may not be a "110-amp" Nissan dealer part ($283.78 minus $75 core charge = $208.78) and $57.94 LESS expensive than the allegedly "Correct" Infiniti dealer part (sporting the exact same Nissan/Infiniti part number - $350.83 - $75 = $275.83).
Hitachi's catalog lists two alternators for 1998 Infiniti i30 Base:
ALR0002 - Hitachi's part number LR1100-711BAM - Infiniti part number 23100-0L700
and
ALR0011 - LR1110-709BAM - 23100-0L701
Hitachi didn't say anything during my call about what Rock Auto's least expensive offering (the ALR0006) and I didn't ask any questions about it as it's "not listed for 98 i30 Base".
Both Hitachi part numbers begin with the same "LR1". The next two numbers denote AMERAGE (100 amps or 110amps). The specialist I spoke with read a-loud a note he found, "on 98-99 use the ALR-0011" (the 110 amp version).
The first Infiniti Part number that Hitachi referenced was:
2310M-0L706RW
Infiniti Parts deal, by VIN, shows the correct Infiniti Part No to be:
23100-OL701 - this corresponds to the ALR0011 above (the 110 amp model) ($372.16 list, discounted to $350.83 with $75 core)
HOWEVER - that same website also shows that Infiniti Part number to have been replaced by: 2310M-0L706RW (that's the same number Hitachi started with)
Nissan Part number 2310M0L706RW is shown on Courtesy Nissan's part site as a replacement for both the 100-amp and 110-amp Nissan/Infiniti Part Numbers 23100-OL700 and the 23100-OL701 (the same $372.16 list, discounted to $283.78, with $75 core)
The Htiachi specialist on the phone described reading "an approval document that Hitachi sends to Nissan" - and both the LR1110-709BAM (110 amps) and the LR1100-711BAM (100 amps) part numbers appear on that drawing (this is why the specialist was unable to answer what was in the car brand new).
So...as long as you believe that "the 100-amp and the 110-amp alternators are the same part" (as Courtesy Nissan indicates is correct, i.e. the two amperage variants have two different part numbers, yet both are somehow singularly replaced by Courtesy's part 2310M-0L706RW) then you're in luck: Hitachi's information is ALSO that "both part numbers are correct".
Again, the specialist said he understood my continued confusion and would try to find out why this discrepancy exists. I also directed him to this forum - maybe he'll stop in and say hello.
I asked prior to purchasing the AutoZone DLG13284 if putting a 110-amp in an 100-amp car would cause a problem; the answer then was "No" and I still don't see how or why the alternator's ability to generate 10% more amps could or would overload or overheat an electrical component on this car - this car that nominally didn't have a load to take that extra amperage anyways.
I have not yet read any reference on this forum to any substantially redesigned/re-engineered electrical components one way or the other between the four model years 1996 thru 1999.
Last edited by reallywildstuff; 04-30-2019 at 10:20 AM.
$260 isn't bad for a new dealer alternator considering the amount of years they last. This is assuming the issue is definitely the alternator, of course.
yesterday, as I arrived at home, the volts were 15+ at idle and higher at any revs above idle
i put a meter on the pole and confirmed what the cig-lighter voltmeter has been reporting: alternator producing more than 14.4 volts
I get no more than 14.4V after cold startup, no less than 13.5V when hot and with an electrical load.
Is there a tutorial on rebuilding the original alternator?
i think you may just be overthinking this. Any minor difference in amperage won't really matter unless you are running a lot of electronics. That's only related to performance. Any minor differences shouldn't cause compatibility issues. When i had mine swapped with a factory unit, there was no difference/options, i believe, from the dealer.
Originally Posted by reallywildstuff
I made contact by phone with Hitachi in CA. There remains one unanswered question ("which Infiniti part number was in the car originally?") and I am expecting a call back re: that detail.
Summary: the most expensive Rock Auto unit (the ALR-0011) is a) 110 amps and b) $9 MORE expensive ($262.89 minus $45 core charge = $217.89) than what may or may not be a "110-amp" Nissan dealer part ($283.78 minus $75 core charge = $208.78) and $57.94 LESS expensive than the allegedly "Correct" Infiniti dealer part (sporting the exact same Nissan/Infiniti part number - $350.83 - $75 = $275.83).
Hitachi's catalog lists two alternators for 1998 Infiniti i30 Base:
ALR0002 - Hitachi's part number LR1100-711BAM - Infiniti part number 23100-0L700
and
ALR0011 - LR1110-709BAM - 23100-0L701
Hitachi didn't say anything during my call about what Rock Auto's least expensive offering (the ALR0006) and I didn't ask any questions about it as it's "not listed for 98 i30 Base".
Both Hitachi part numbers begin with the same "LR1". The next two numbers denote AMERAGE (100 amps or 110amps). The specialist I spoke with read a-loud a note he found, "on 98-99 use the ALR-0011" (the 110 amp version).
The first Infiniti Part number that Hitachi referenced was:
2310M-0L706RW
Infiniti Parts deal, by VIN, shows the correct Infiniti Part No to be:
23100-OL701 - this corresponds to the ALR0011 above (the 110 amp model) ($372.16 list, discounted to $350.83 with $75 core)
HOWEVER - that same website also shows that Infiniti Part number to have been replaced by: 2310M-0L706RW (that's the same number Hitachi started with)
Nissan Part number 2310M0L706RW is shown on Courtesy Nissan's part site as a replacement for both the 100-amp and 110-amp Nissan/Infiniti Part Numbers 23100-OL700 and the 23100-OL701 (the same $372.16 list, discounted to $283.78, with $75 core)
The Htiachi specialist on the phone described reading "an approval document that Hitachi sends to Nissan" - and both the LR1110-709BAM (110 amps) and the LR1100-711BAM (100 amps) part numbers appear on that drawing (this is why the specialist was unable to answer what was in the car brand new).
So...as long as you believe that "the 100-amp and the 110-amp alternators are the same part" (as Courtesy Nissan indicates is correct, i.e. the two amperage variants have two different part numbers, yet both are somehow singularly replaced by Courtesy's part 2310M-0L706RW) then you're in luck: Hitachi's information is ALSO that "both part numbers are correct".
Again, the specialist said he understood my continued confusion and would try to find out why this discrepancy exists. I also directed him to this forum - maybe he'll stop in and say hello.
I asked prior to purchasing the AutoZone DLG13284 if putting a 110-amp in an 100-amp car would cause a problem; the answer then was "No" and I still don't see how or why the alternator's ability to generate 10% more amps could or would overload or overheat an electrical component on this car - this car that nominally didn't have a load to take that extra amperage anyways.
I have not yet read any reference on this forum to any substantially redesigned/re-engineered electrical components one way or the other between the four model years 1996 thru 1999.
"Geez why do people on this forum keep telling me that?"
I will buy a Hitachi alternator - but which one, and from where? I will be taking the AutoZone alternator in for warranty replacement = no core to return on the Hitachi purchase. I'll keep the AZ on the shelf, or sell it.
Various dealers (Courtesy Nissan, Holman Infiniti) sell the "Nissan"/"Infiniti" 2310M-0L706RW online for $283.78. NOT, however, InfinitiPartsDeal (the online vendor I usually deal with) - they want $350.83
RockAuto (for one) sells the Hitachi ALR0011 for $262.89.
The $19 difference between the NisMoCo part and the Hitachi part is plainly besides the point by now.
Which one do you think I should buy - the unspecified amperage one from NisMoCo, or the definitely 110-amp one from RockAuto ?
So Brian, when I was on the phone with the Hitachi guy, he did say if you order a remanufactured alternator from Nissan/Infinity, it will be the exact same one as buying a Hitachi. They just put a different label. And NONE of the Nissans or Hitachi available for 4th Gens are New, Only Hitachi Rebuilt. And done beautifully.
So you know buying one of the two Hitachis at the lowest cost delivered source is the way to go. (Google part number search)
I will say putting the ALR0011 was a no brainer as I have a 99SE. I doubt you can go wrong with one of these. However, the other model probably was originally spec'd for your I30.
Either will most likely do fine. It seems the best luck is with Hitachi in general overall. I did 2 new Boschs and I'm sorry I didn't use a Hitachi the first time.
I understand where you're at. Same place as me. I just want it done right and to be DONE with it and RELIABLE. Is that asking too much? When it comes to Alternators and Starters, it just might be. But thankfully, Hitachi still keeps quality stock for us to arrive at the previous statement. Can't say much for the rest.
I was lucky, when I called Hitachi, he had a published answer and part number for my car. No guessing using logic as a rudder. Good luck!
When I bought my Hitachi from JC Whitney (eBay), they didn't make me pay a core charge and didn't expect my old one back. I still have the box too. Send me the label from wherever you buy it and I'll send them my garbage. LOL Have a cold one on me with the core charge return!
Not to navel gaze BUT I cant decide whether to buy a straight Hitachi alternator or a Nissan alternator.
I see the two extremely helpful suggestions above just like you do (thank you) and they’re 50/50.
my problems arent with the way the car runs with a working alternator - instead they are that the alternator itself doesnt last
both options would seem (allegedly, reportedly, some sources are saying) to satisfy my complaint - so is it really six of one and half a dozen of the other?
id like to purchase this Today...I am not driving the i30 in the meantime...
Either part number of the two for your situation, whether Nissan Rebuilt or Hitachi Rebuilt is the exact same thing with a different label stuck on at the factory, from the same factory (Mexico).
Buy whichever is cheapest delivered. (ALR0011 or ALR0002 whichever you decide Hitachi or N/I) Send me the label you get from them for the core return and I'll pack my old one to send them and drop it off.
That was easy, except for searching for the cheapest delivered price. (Easy too really) LOL
I 100% understand that's what I should do. I'm having trouble proceeding with my purchase choice absent empirical evidence vis-a-vis "what is supposed to be in the car".
How can it possibly be that two different Hitachi part numbers/things, each listed by Hitachi as having two different amp ratings, are one and the same thing denoted by a single Nissan part number ?
The next question that follows is, "are there even differences between the two variants that Hitachi sells?"; per your assessment, KP11520, that answer is a resounding "No".
Ergo - I fell like I'm participating in a giant scam...man. And I'm the one being scammed (again) - maybe not quite like I fell I was scammed by O'Reilly, Premier Gear, Bosch, and AutoZone - but similar. If there is in fact no difference between an AR0002 and an AR0011 then WHY am I paying $80 more for the 0011 ? But I've got to, right - because otherwise come the next failure I'll have "cheaped out" and it will be "my fault again"...that's hardly a warm fuzzy feeling about my purchase choice. I mean I don't actually have money falling out of my pocket, you know ?
How is it there's no one org member works at a Nissan dealer and reads this board that can take a picture of what's in the Nissan box ("What's In The Box?") Same thing re: a RockAuto employee etc...
that's being sold by another retailer using Amazon (not "Amazon" proper) - I don't know if that makes a difference on the returns or not. Anyways mine'll be here by Friday for within $10 of that Amazon figure and we'll ALL SEE TOGETHER
”item is out of stock” - the delivery cost and time was a factor too.
I will take you up on your generous offer, Thank You.
Let me know when you get it and I'll get it right out to RA.
Hopefully, you will be done with this for a LONG time! When my cars are down, I usually hyperfocus on them and let other things fall by the wayside. VERY unsettling and disruptive for me.
The "Made in Japan- Remanufactured in Mexico" label does not give me a lot of confidence. Keep us informed in the future.
I can think of worse places - however per this forum and also per, apparently, reality: "there are no "new" alternators for 4G Maxima to be had anywhere at any price".
AZ says their Duralast Gold is "new" - but that's got to be some bull**** use of the word "new" that I've never heard before, right- as two failures of a "new" product in less than 12 months isn't very confidence-inspiring, either.
Oh there's new out there. Just not the kind of new and results that's worth it.
Despite being remanufactured in Mexico, QC is definitely maintained by Japanese standards. Japan made used to be made fun of in the 60s. Guess what? They set the bar really HIGH with quality.
I'm lovin my remanufactured ALR0011 as we speak.
Yeah, maybe the QC is good. I would rather it be re manufactured in Japan or the US. I'm sure the Duralast "new" alternators are not made here. They are probably made in Mexico or China.
Just so you know, the negative terminal (OEM) strap on my battery tightened all the way doesn't get tight enough and I can pull it off bare handed. It used to allow corrosion to work its way in and go intermittent for the 6 years I had that Bosch. Just bought a new one and thankfully, it has a larger diameter. Last two Boschs lasted a total of 13 years. My go to until they get like all the rest. I get the ones with the most CCAs that fit.
I took a close up of my relatively new negative battery cable...note the small "tab" piece of metal on the bolt side of the clamp (circled in red).
A while back I had to replace the previous negative cable because MONKEYS had OVER-TIGHTENED this cable - bending the tab back to parallel with the bolt flange. The end result was a "failure to cinch down on the battery's negative post" - similar to what you describe above.
Attached are pics of the old AZ DuraLast Gold DLG13284 with LLT (shown with oil that's blown up from the leaking crank pulley seal / leaking UOP) and of the AZ unit next to the new Hitachi.
"I tell you what" - AutoZone's alternator didn't last 12 months, but their RETURN policy is pretty stellar: I walked out with $240 in cash (including core deposit) rather than just the warranty unit I expected, and all I had to do was ask for it (plus show them the email receipt from Rock Auto re: the Hitachi purchase). $240 isn't that far away from what the Hitachi will end up costing...
The Hitachi has a smaller "black band" in between the front and back halves of its case than the AZ.
The Hitachi was 1/8" smaller across the pivot point jaws overall than the AZ - see pictures. Was it just my imagination or did that make it easier to install ? There was an absence of blood this go-round...
With new Hitachi installed the voltmeter shows a much more robust 13+ V at all cycles. Time will tell whether this alternator lives longer than all its predecessors have...
great to hear! Though, if you still have an oil leak dripping onto the alternator you will want to get that addressed asap if you want the alternator to last long.
its not "dripping onto the alternator" - its leaking from below, and oil is being blown up onto the lower left hand quadrant of the mounted alternator as a result
a distinction without a difference?
i very much want to fix the other oil leaks but that's the UOP + water pump job and that's a large nut to crack...
04-26-2019, 04:44 AM
