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Driver door lock and power windows don't work

Old 04-27-2019, 09:14 AM
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Max40
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Driver door lock and power windows don't work

On my 1995 Maxima SE all of a sudden the switch on my drivers side front door for the door locks stopped working. In addition all power windows switches do not work. My OEM alarm transmitter will lock and open all doors except the drivers side door. I have to open the driver side front door manually. I am going to check for fuses but this is pretty confusing. Was working fine yesterday. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
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Old 04-27-2019, 10:07 AM
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Open up the trim panel on the Driver's door and make sure the control button unit is still plugged in to the wiring harness. Make sure there isn't a short in the wiring harness in the door and especially in the door jam area where it passes from the door to the body. Maybe try opening and closing the door as you hold the buttons.
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Old 04-27-2019, 10:56 AM
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JvG
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There are two buttons towards the front of the window buttons.

The one with an X on it disables the other buttons.

Press it. Things should return to normal.
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Old 04-27-2019, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by JvG
There are two buttons towards the front of the window buttons.

The one with an X on it disables the other buttons.

Press it. Things should return to normal.
I was thinking that until I reread that the FOB opens the other three locks for the doors but NOT the driver's door. And the Driver's window at the least would still work.

We've entered the Twilight Zone when all the quirky problems attack at the same time. LOL
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Old 04-27-2019, 12:36 PM
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I'll start looking for a blown fuse if that might be the issue. I have had the car for 25 years nothing like this has ever happened.
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Old 04-27-2019, 01:03 PM
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I jiggled the door harness and everything worked again. The wrapping around the harness is brittle. Have to to check for a stripped or broken wire. After 25 years of exposure ans opening and closing probably starting to wear out.
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Old 04-27-2019, 06:01 PM
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I'm sure you'll repair the wiring harness. My advise is to not repair it in the door jam area, but rather cut out in the door and after it goes back into the body so the connections (solder and heavy duty heat shrink tubing) aren't where the constant bending occurs.

Best of luck! Good detective work.
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Old 06-21-2019, 05:46 PM
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Well since my post in April, the switch finally gave out what looks like for good. It happened with the window half way down and I can't get the window up. Tried jiggling the wire in the door space and it did not work. Window switches on all the other doors won't work either. My factory fob still lock and unlocks all doors except the driver side. Should I look to get an entire new driver side switch assembly or try diagnosing the wires? Is there any way to roll up the driver's side window until I get this fixed? Any help is appreciated.
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Old 06-29-2019, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Maxie40
Well since my post in April, the switch finally gave out what looks like for good. It happened with the window half way down and I can't get the window up. Tried jiggling the wire in the door space and it did not work. Window switches on all the other doors won't work either. My factory fob still lock and unlocks all doors except the driver side. Should I look to get an entire new driver side switch assembly or try diagnosing the wires? Is there any way to roll up the driver's side window until I get this fixed? Any help is appreciated.
I bet the power wire to the switch assembly finally severed completely in the door jam to body area. Apparently the Lock and Window control module is also hot, mounted elsewhere and not affected by the wire sever. Hence the FOB working. The wiring job is a PITA, but worth it. Be patient and disassemble the door for as much exposure back to the Jam area, as well on the opposite side. See if there's a wiring diagram that shows a plug inside the body so you can disconnect it and slide the wire sever area into the door and do the surgery there, or pull both ends towards the jam area and do the work there. Splice with soldering and use the RIGHT heat shrink tubing (put in place before soldering and slide out of the way) to completely cover the wire(s) redone and then seal up the entire exposed length that spans from the door into the body with larger diameter heavy duty HS Tuning, like is there now.

I doubt HIGHLY there is anything wrong with the switch.
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