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It could be your mass air flow sensor that is possible cutting out at times and stalls due to it not getting proper reading to the ecu. You might have to replace it. Another thing could be a. Cam shaft position sensor that is failing as well. This would cause your car to crank and not fire. But the sensor does not fail often at times. Sound like it could be the Cam sensor as it might have cooled down enough to give proper readings.
SAS, my wife went to the store and came back. I went out 10 minutes later and it tried to catch twice and from the third try and after, no attempt to fire. Battery is new and it cranks strong.
1999 SE 213K miles
I have a used MAF in EXCELLENT condition I got from a friend. (CS_AR) I guess I'll swap that first, but I suspect it's something else, like a Crank or Cam PS or some other sensor that stops spark when it fails. TPS is newer as well.
No codes at all.
It has been idling high recently until warm.
I was going to pick up a repaired fender for my Truck which is apart and no lights (swapping bumper assembly and fender).
Anybody know how to make it look the car went on fire by itself? LOL I'm tired of bandaids for gunshot wounds.
Cam position sensor is easy to get to. You could try removing and seeing if it is oiled up and clean it if it is. Although, I believe when mine was acting up, it did throw a code.
Will clean Camshaft Position Sensor in the AM. Dark now.
Next will be front (Crank Pulley) Crankshaft Position Sensor. Side/Rear was replace a few years ago (1999 Maxima) My Front sensor has been eating oil for a while as the front seal needs to be replaced. Which I already have here. Just want to do a Harmonic Balancer while there. They've seemed to go up in price the past year or so. DAMN.
Unless I'm pursuing the wrong order? Please advise!
Pull one of the coils and see if you are getting a spark. If you are, then it is not a crankshaft sensor.
The sensor on the crankshaft pulley, CKPS[REF] tells the ECU where TDC is. If this sensors fails, the ECU can still figure out where TDC is so the engine will start, according to Nissan anyway. My guess is that the camshaft sensor is used as backup. When Nissan came out with the 3.5 liter engine, they stopped putting the pulley sensor on the engine.
The sensor at the flywheel is much more important. It is used for the actual spark timing. It generates a pulse of every one degree of crankshaft rotation. Even though you replaced it a few years ago, that is not a guarantee it is good.
You are the Guardian Angel with the real Details that matter when diagnosing for sure! I will pul plug 1 and coil pack and ground the plug on the the top and see if there's a spark. No Spark, I might just buy both Intermotor Crank sensors and Camshaft sensor. Reasonable at Rock Auto vs the rest. Hopefully eliminating the usual suspects.
If there is spark.... I'll be looking closely at fuel delivery and any sensors that affect fuel delivery exclusively! After all, the plug will be out and it should be wet in cylinder 1. And I'll crank it a bit before pulling the plug and testing for spark.
Wish me luck and a quick fix!
Originally Posted by DennisMik
Pull one of the coils and see if you are getting a spark. If you are, then it is not a crankshaft sensor.
The sensor on the crankshaft pulley, CKPS[REF] tells the ECU where TDC is. If this sensors fails, the ECU can still figure out where TDC is so the engine will start, according to Nissan anyway. My guess is that the camshaft sensor is used as backup. When Nissan came out with the 3.5 liter engine, they stopped putting the pulley sensor on the engine.
The sensor at the flywheel is much more important. It is used for the actual spark timing. It generates a pulse of every one degree of crankshaft rotation. Even though you replaced it a few years ago, that is not a guarantee it is good.
So..... I have a STRONG spark and the cylinder is dry as a bone!
What can cause this (sensors?) along with the fuel pump failing? And do fuel pumps just puke without any warning or fading while declining??
Hopefully, this will help the OP as well.
Thanks!
To double check the no gas theory, spray some starting fluid or brake cleaner or even propane into the throttle or intake manifold while cranking the engine. If the engine catches, then the no gas theory is correct.
Assuming no gas is the problem, There a several possibilities. The fuel pump as mentioned is one. Does the fuel pump prime for a second or 2 when the ignition key is first turned on?
I got the impression that you have a 1999. If the NATS has been triggered, it will shut off the gas to the engine by disabling the fuel injectors. If NATS is the problem, then the red security light to the left of the steering column will be on while trying to crank the engine.
Pulled the fuel line from the filter and pointed it down towards the ground and cranked it 3 times for 5 seconds or so each time. No wiind up from the fuel pump turning the key on and after 15 seconds of cranking, had the equivalent of a dinner sized plate wet spot under the car on the driveway. Houston, we have a problem!. Shoulda been a LOT more than that!
Now I'll check the relay and fuse before securing a new fuel pump!
Is the fuel pump one unit with the gas measurement system? I'd like that low fuel light to work again!
But Sure as Doo Doo, The Fuel Pump Relay is behind the ABS Control unit mounted behind the driver's side left kick panel below the dash in front of the door. That plastic kick panel needs to be removed first, Then the ABS Unit and finally the Relay (One of two and closest to the back) Hopefully, the second is the same model and can be swapped to test.
Swapped the relay with the identical A/C relay right next to it. Car still wouldn't start. A/C worked the day it crapped out.
On To a new Hitachi FUP0015 and new tank seal gasket. OEM was the same Hitachi and that lasted 20+ years and 213K. Plus it comes with a new pick up screen already installed.
Have to wait until tomorrow to get it sent to my Parts Authority nearby.
After it cranks for a good 3 to 4 seconds, then the red light goes solid. The rest of the time it goes the usual route. I've never had a no start situation before where I payed attention to that light. I don't know if that was normal when the side Crank Sensor went bad.
Went from running and drive home to me trying to start it 10 minutes later and the door was never open any of those times.
Can I test something to confirm NATS or is this the Fuel Pump? Any way to tap into the power wires for the fuel pump to check for voltage when ignition is on?
Note that the light goes solid after about 1 to 1-1/2 seconds and then stays that way until I turn the car off. Also note that the car started briefly because of whatever fuel was left still making it to the injectors but then refused to start. The dealer had to reprogram my keys.
Nissan put out NTB00-019 on the issue a long time ago; the tech at the dealer wrote it on my invoice. Sadly only the dealer can reprogram the keys in a 99 because it was the first year they implemented transponder keys and it was done differently than the ECMs during the following years. Cost me about $275 because the stealership didn't know what they were doing. Be sure to tell them that it's OBDII and that 99 was the first year they did transponders.
If it’s a 99 and your security light is solid then it’s NATS. A tow to the dealer was the only solution, unfortunately.
Show them a copy of the bulletin too so that they won’t waste time trying something different. I ended up paying for an hour of diagnostics because they thought the ECU was dead.
If we took the best parts from both cars and combined them, we'd still have a POS to share.
I'll email you.
QUOTE=Shrout1;9208205]If it’s a 99 and your security light is solid then it’s NATS. A tow to the dealer was the only solution, unfortunately.
Show them a copy of the bulletin too so that they won’t waste time trying something different. I ended up paying for an hour of diagnostics because they thought the ECU was dead.[/QUOTE]
A membership to AAA pays for itself when owning older cars. In CA, it also pays for itself not having to deal with DMV related tasks and having to wait in their crazy long lines.
A membership to AAA pays for itself when owning older cars. In CA, it also pays for itself not having to deal with DMV related tasks and having to wait in their crazy long lines.
I have towing coverage thru mu Auto Insurance Policy and it costs about $8 per year. Look into it - dirt cheap.
