CV Joint Boot Leaking - re-boot?
CV Joint Boot Leaking - re-boot?
While doing an oil change the other day, I noticed the driver's side outer CV joint is slinging grease from hairline cracks in the rubber. The failure is age related, just old rubber. Since no dirt or anything has gotten into the joint (I caught it early) and it's not making any noises, I should probably just put a new boot on it, correct? I know I can get a rebuilt/replacement whole axle for cheap, but I've always heard the aftermarket ones are junk and to stay with OEM and re-boot them whenever possible.
While researching how-to's online for replacing the boot, seems there are different styles and methods for doing this. Some suggest using a funnel and forcing the boot over it. Others say you have to disassemble the joint and put the boot on after you have it in two halves. Others say some axles you can't take apart.
Anyone know for sure what the correct procedure for re-booting these is? Or if the axles in question can be taken apart at the joint? I half thought about taking the axle off the car and bringing it to my local mechanic to have this done, but I'd prefer to do it myself if at all possible. Are there any special tools I need? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Vehicle is a '96 Maxima GLE w/ auto trans.
While researching how-to's online for replacing the boot, seems there are different styles and methods for doing this. Some suggest using a funnel and forcing the boot over it. Others say you have to disassemble the joint and put the boot on after you have it in two halves. Others say some axles you can't take apart.
Anyone know for sure what the correct procedure for re-booting these is? Or if the axles in question can be taken apart at the joint? I half thought about taking the axle off the car and bringing it to my local mechanic to have this done, but I'd prefer to do it myself if at all possible. Are there any special tools I need? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Vehicle is a '96 Maxima GLE w/ auto trans.
napa makes a lifetime warranty axle that i had replaced ( both sides ) on my car about 7-8 years ago with no issues. think about it, the cv boot has cracks, and you can drive it like that ( i did for 3 years ) so knowadays it's easier for most mechanics to just put the axle on because the labor to replace the boot is longer and they make axles cheap enough it just doesn't make sense.
The axle has to be removed in order to put a new boot on. If you are doing it yourself, it is cheaper to put a new boot on. They are around $15 with the grease. If you are taking it to a mechanic, it is cheaper to replace the axle as the labor charge to replace the boot is more than an axle.
I had replaced my drivers side CV axle with Brand new Autozone Lifetime warranty axle 10 years ago (also replaced passenger side using Cardone remanufactured unit bought from Kragen).
The Drivers side recently went bad, and I got a replacement from Autozone for free.
The passenger side looks like it is still going strong.
Complete units are the way to go, no mess and free replacement as they go bad.
The Drivers side recently went bad, and I got a replacement from Autozone for free.
The passenger side looks like it is still going strong.
Complete units are the way to go, no mess and free replacement as they go bad.
My how time flies. In November it will be 5 years since I started this thread about CV axles. I'll need to check the cars again. Bottom line is these axles have lasted longer than the axles that I used in the years between 2010 and 2016. Those were in a 3-year replacement cycle due to split boots.
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Love_00_Max
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
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Sep 2, 2006 08:12 PM



