Hello Guys and Thank you in advance for your replies. My 95 has had issues starting for a long time and in the recent month it would take 5 cranks to start. I ordered a new OEM ignition switch and installed it and car started instantly at least 10 times. Yesterday I went to start it and nothing. Only heard clicks coming from fusebox by left knee. Spent all day yesterday troubleshooting and found fuseable links on Pos side of battery are good. Checked all fuses by battery and all are good. Started testing fuses under dash and found the last 7 fuses on the second row and the last 8 on the third row are getting no power. So basically the lower right quadrant of the fusebox is dead. I removed the fusebox and the large white striped wires on the upper right side are both bringing in power. Car does not crank(relay only clicks under dash),no turn signals,no warning lights on dash when key is turned on,no power windows,no dome lights. I heard the Altimas have issues with fuse boxes but cant find any issues posted online with these Maximas. Anyone experienced this? Thanks again.

 

So proper power is found being supplied all the way up to and until the fuse-box itself is tested … is that correct?

 

Hello and Thank you for reply. I dont know if it is the proper power as I could not find any diagram on the fuse box wiring. I just removed the fusebox after testing the fuseable links and checking the large fuses in front fusebox by the battery. The 2 thick gauge wires on the top right side of the interior fuse box do have power. They are both white with a stripe. Thanks again.

 

And if those power leads to the box are powered, how do they connect to the box? Is there any possibility of cleaning and reseating the connections? Since the box is out, continuity test every fuse path from where the power enters the box to where it exits the box.

I doubt a whole bank in a box would go bad. Maybe a gang connection is more likely. Maybe a ground problem somewhere?

 

Thank you for the reply. I was thinking about a ground as well. I reseated the 2 connectors and they are clean. I was starting to wonder about the bcm as well.

 

Wondering about security now. I had to remove horn 2 relay im pointing to a year or so ago as alarm would go off sporadically. Now i tried putting horn 2 relay in and the horn seen in photo wont turn off so i left relay in and unplugged horn and tried locking and unlocking doors to see if security would reset but no luck.

 

Looking at these 15 fuses some of the descriptions like turn signals dont seem like they would be associated with a security issue would they? Im pulling the fuse box to see hiw many plugs on the rear are in this dead section and will try to see if grounds are close by..

 

This brown connector directly behind the dead area has no power to any of the 7 pins. Anywhere i could find the diagram for this plug? Thanx again.

 

Put a little jumper from the left fuse (blower) to the dead fuse on right(turn signal) and all the fuses have power that were dead. The car however still clicks on the starter relay inside but not turning starter. Looked through FSM and could not find anything about the wiring on this interior fusebox.

 

Last piece you replaced was ign switch. I would revisit switch and insure it is installed properly...Hope you used OEM switch.

 

Hi. Thank you for the reply. Yes was from Nissan dealership. Installed correctly and all the power coming out of the switch by FSM specs.

 

Try This Again.. but instead unlock the trunk with the key. To fully disarm security with out the Fob. Locking and unlocking the doors is not it. It may silence it but not disarm. Ive also just fulled the fuse out of the LF underhood fuse panel. Leave the relays in. The starting issue and Light issue are 2 separate problems. Looking at your photos if that is in fact your fuse panel. you first need to remove all fuses that don't belong. Often times the box may have a fuse with contacts in a slot thats empty. But they are not listed in the diagram for a reason. Sometimes dealers install fuses for transport mode and many other things. Make the Fuse box match the Diagram pictured. Ill check back on this.

 

Hi. Thank you for the reply. I will try the locking and unlocking of trunk. I am going to match the fuses to the fuse box layout as well. I noticed there was a couple of fuses on the interior fuse box that should be empty. If I put one of the 2 horn relays back into its slot on the engine pass side fuse box then the security horn starts yelling lol. So I will unplug the alarm horn on pass side then reinstall the 2 horn relays and then try disarming the security with the trunk lock. Thanks again and I will post my findings on Friday. Nel

 

If your horn beeps constant, there's one or two reasons. One being plastic spacer clips under the steering wheel have crumbled. Look into that if having a horn is important. In my state, the car won't pass inspection without it working.

 

Hi. Thank you for the reply. Here in Florida anything goes lol but when I lived in Massachusetts 25 years ago it was required to pass an inspection as well. It definately must be the clips you mention as I have been picking up small pieces of light colored plastic for a long time. Any idea what they are called so I can order them. Thanks again
🙂

 

Discontinued by Nissan years ago. If you are lucky, you can find some that aren't disintegrating at Pick a Part junk yards. But they are just as old as yours or maybe a couple years less. There are other threads here with DIY make shift solutions. One guy was considering scanning these and 3D printing the two sizes. Good luck!

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...-resolved.html

 

^^^ WTH are you doing up at 2:42AM, Keith?

 

That's what Tomcats do! RAWR! (more like a meow) LOL

We also chase each other around the house.

Don't tell me that you're sleeping?

 

Thanks again for all the help and the links. Looks like I will tear it apart and see what I can fabricate. Heck I might hook up an old clutch pedal that I press down 🙂