Wheel bearing play before preload
Wheel bearing play before preload
1st time changing a wheel bearing. Working on Front driver-side, 1998 SE auto, open diff. Using a threaded rod style press with cups and an impact wrench.
So I did something dumb. I pressed the bearing into the spindle, installed the clips and the inner and outer wheel seals, then when pressing the hub in I set the cup on the inner side against the outer ring of the seal and the inner race of the wheel bearing went too far and damaged the inner wheel seal. I realized after i should have waited to install the inner seal and chose a smaller cup to go up against the inner race so that the hub wouldn't push it out.
I then popped off the inner seal- (trash) and pressed the inner race back where it should be. It never came out of the outer race just enough to damage the seal. To the naked eye it looks as it should.
Problem is there appears to be a very slight amount of play when grabbing the hub in relation to the spindle. Did I ruin the bearing or is this just how it is before installing on the vehicle and torqueing down the axle nut to set the bearing preload?
I have yet to put it on the car as this is on a spare spindle I have.
So I did something dumb. I pressed the bearing into the spindle, installed the clips and the inner and outer wheel seals, then when pressing the hub in I set the cup on the inner side against the outer ring of the seal and the inner race of the wheel bearing went too far and damaged the inner wheel seal. I realized after i should have waited to install the inner seal and chose a smaller cup to go up against the inner race so that the hub wouldn't push it out.
I then popped off the inner seal- (trash) and pressed the inner race back where it should be. It never came out of the outer race just enough to damage the seal. To the naked eye it looks as it should.
Problem is there appears to be a very slight amount of play when grabbing the hub in relation to the spindle. Did I ruin the bearing or is this just how it is before installing on the vehicle and torqueing down the axle nut to set the bearing preload?
I have yet to put it on the car as this is on a spare spindle I have.
From your description I can see what happened, and understand what you have going on.
I always trash the seals anyhow. you need a cup that sits just on the inner bearings inner race if that makes sense.... and press it a little more until the play is Gone. I rec this over the axle torque method, which can and does work however you'll end up with and over or under torqued bearing attempting to pull the play out this way as it can over load the front side of the bearing. The inner bearing is set against the hub already so what you need to attempt to do is tighten up the innner, but not much. Use that same press and by hand pull it up..Your looking for no play and a Smooth spin with a slight slight drag, just a Fluid Motion rotation when set in perfect.
I always trash the seals anyhow. you need a cup that sits just on the inner bearings inner race if that makes sense.... and press it a little more until the play is Gone. I rec this over the axle torque method, which can and does work however you'll end up with and over or under torqued bearing attempting to pull the play out this way as it can over load the front side of the bearing. The inner bearing is set against the hub already so what you need to attempt to do is tighten up the innner, but not much. Use that same press and by hand pull it up..Your looking for no play and a Smooth spin with a slight slight drag, just a Fluid Motion rotation when set in perfect.
This is how I messed up my first installation on the car installing the wheel bearing forgot the small cup to put on the inner race and press the hub assembly in it and it has serious play in it. I pressed in all the way the next time again and it was right no play but it just takes a mistake like this to ruin the bearing. I had pressed the hub in and I spun it I heard growling humming and I knew it was toast before I installed it on the car. I learned that you want to have the inner race secure tight at all times No slight movements or foul plays or It will ruin the new bearing. Don't press and or spin the hub in while pressing the bearing that will also toast the new bearing because of the heat thats being created from the hub being pressed in and being turned in with the press tool heating the bearings causing them to heat up and fail ASAP.
This is how I messed up my first installation on the car installing the wheel bearing forgot the small cup to put on the inner race and press the hub assembly in it and it has serious play in it. I pressed in all the way the next time again and it was right no play but it just takes a mistake like this to ruin the bearing. I had pressed the hub in and I spun it I heard growling humming and I knew it was toast before I installed it on the car. I learned that you want to have the inner race secure tight at all times No slight movements or foul plays or It will ruin the new bearing. Don't press and or spin the hub in while pressing the bearing that will also toast the new bearing because of the heat thats being created from the hub being pressed in and being turned in with the press tool heating the bearings causing them to heat up and fail ASAP.
Remember the slightest play will make the bearings go bad they will rub if they have play in the inner and outer bearings sit. You want zero play and no vibration and noise when your spinning the hub before the installation of the hub on the car.
The outer race of the bearing assembly is the ONLY place where pressure can be applied to push bearings in and out. And of course, not all bearing assemblies are equal. NSK or OEM are all I would use and NSK is what went in mine flawlessly. Lot of junk out there from wanton manufacturers.
Pressed the hub in a bit more supporting the inner race carefully with hand tools. Went in another half turn. Seems right now. No play. Spins smooth with just the right amount of resistance I think. No more play. I will install on the car when we finally get a day under 90 degrees.
The outer race of the bearing assembly is the ONLY place where pressure can be applied to push bearings in and out. And of course, not all bearing assemblies are equal. NSK or OEM are all I would use and NSK is what went in mine flawlessly. Lot of junk out there from wanton manufacturers.
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