Mine took a while.. about a month.

 

It took 3 weeks to recieve my shiftlight from Harlan. He's a really busy guy.

BTW, I WILL be ordering the VI from you tommorrow I just have to get the Pay Pal stuff setup. Be looking for my e-mail confirmation.


Dave

 

I'm very surprised PayPal has not restricted your account, Cranman....they got me within 2 days....

IanS

 

Why would they rstrict his account?


Dave

 

Yeah they restricted it on the 16th faxed in the info and they said that it should be lifted in 3-5 business days...which is a bummer. But, I understand why they do it and it should be cleared up by Wed. at the latest.

 

I will be looking for the email response and when I get it I will send you an email explaining that I recieved it.

-John

 

How long does it take to recieve the VI?

 

Hope that helps,

John

 

The RPM switch is on it's way, so I should hopefully get it by Thursday the latest is what I'm thinking. But, I can't wait to get this RPM Switch if it comes in Wed. we are going to try to do a dyno day on Thursday, if not then I'll have to wait until Tuesday because my weekend is booked. Just thought I would give everyone the heads up.

-John

 

Let me know for sure so that I can make it up to see it!

 

The one problem is we won't know most likely until Wed. Unless the RPM switch gets here sooner. If it doesn't get here until Thursday then we won't be doing a dyno run until Tuesday. I will definitely give you the heads up though

-John

 

John, could you do a dyno without the VI installed and then one with it installed? Instead of with it on and just opened and closed. Thanks.

 

He's had the VI installed for over a week now so that's not an option.
-hype

 

I could do that, but I don't really have the extra money for two seperate dyno's. If people want to pitch in some money I'll throw the old collector on and do a dyno test without the VI on. But, I don't have the extra cash at this time to do two seperate runs.
Sorry man.

-John

 

I finally got the RPM switch installed. It is so incredibly nice to have this VI working fully. I just wanted to give everybody the heads up. But, the VI is definitely what I would suggest for your first mod. Just for the fact that there is no stopping to the pull you get. From 3500-Redline . It just pulls continuously. There is no comparison. I can't wait to get a dyno done, by the way I should be getting the dyno done on Saturday if they have room... So, Saturday afternoon I should have the stats out here on the site. Just thought I would post the progress.

All I have to say is non-stop power.

-John

 

I'm verry happy you got it working, Cranman...but from 3500? Is that what you set the RPM switch to?

All of my Dynos at 3500 show a loss of power compared to the VI being off at that point, also there is no real recovery before redline from that loss. You need to set it to 5000....

You may be feeling more pull because of the more drastic change now between 3500 and 6500 RPM's. But your actual hp and tq is lower.

I can post Dynos showing this if you like (VI open at 3500, 4500, 5000), but I gotta get to work right now.

IanS

 

I think he's just stating that the car now pulls hard from 3500 (at which the VQ naturally starts making a lot of power) to the redline because of the VI. Not that the VI activates at 3500.

 

Sorry about the confusion. I meant that the power band is from like 3500-Redline. So, there is no loss in power were you would normally feel a loss in power around 5000RPMs. I do have it set at 5000RPMs but I will check the dyno to see if it might be better to set it around 4800-5200RPM. But, the dyno will be the one that tells.

-John

 

Correct!!!

 

This is gonna be kool!

 

This may be history in the making. John, your dyno may be the 1st 4th Gen Maxima to break 200 front wheel HP. Well, maybe not, b/c the VI seems to straighten or stretch out the power curve horizontally rather than vertically. Still very beneficial. Anyways, maybe you shoud re-name yourself ChuckYeagerMaxima


DW

 

You might want to set the RPM switch a little higher. Many of the dynos I've looked at for the maxima make peak horsepower around 5200-5300 rpms.

If you didn't have a Y-pipe it might be better to set it a little lower, but since you do have a Y-pipe I'd set it higher. If you look at dyno curves without a Y-pipe they drop off real fast after peak horsepower, and their peak is very pronounced. But cars with a Y-pipe have a peak range of horsepower where they hold the peak power from about 5000-5400 rpms and then drops after that point.

I have a few dyno graphs if you want to take a look.

 

About time you showed up to the party! Isn't that torque steer in first gear around 5500 rpm cool.

I can't wait to see your dyno. I'm betting with the JWT ECU you will not see the drop I do around 3500 rpms.

 

Yeah that will be very nice. I can't wait to see this dyno either. This is my first dyno, and I'm so excited. I'm as getty as a school girl (or something like that). I"m not trying to expect to much. But, I really like to see the Max break the 200HP mark NA, but that might be expecting to much. I just hope there isn't a disappointment.

-John

 

From all the Dynos I ran with the MEVI, 5000 was the best one. Otherwise you get "dips" in the Dyno and the car never really recovers....

I even ran at 5200 and 5500 RPM's...they were identical to 5000 (no dip). So why not have it open as early as possible? At 4800 I got a dip of 10hp also.....but I'm sure every car is somewhat different.

For instance, I drive an automagic...that alone causes different peaks in the powerband.

It really does kick butt, doesn't it Cranman...welcome to the NA MEVI club!

I'll be leaving this club because this showed up on my doorstep last night.



IanS

 

Oh man I'm getting excited. I've only got a 4-7 week wait


Dave

 

If you would send me the dyno graphs or tell me where I could go to look at them I would be glad to take a look. I was thinking the same thing about maybe setting it a little higher. But that is the reason I have the Dyno for an hour. What I want is find exactly where I want the VI to open. and then try the hybrid air intake, see if it makes a difference. And swap out the ECU to see possibly how big a difference the JWT ECU makes on this mod. But, the ECU will be the last thing I do, if I get around to it.

-John

 

Man so you will probalby get gains like MardiGras saw with the VI. That will be really nice.

Good luck,
John

 

4th and counting that stuff is addicting aint it I think before i left i was on my 5th refill within 2 months time but its all good because i took care of my engine and acheck compression before i left my car now its chillin in my brothers driveway and he hates NOS lkke the plague

 

Congrats Ian. I wonder why your mounting plate is copper color. Mine is silver, the same color as the blower. Let me know if I can help in any way with the install. Phone support, etc.

 

Mine's a V1 maybe?

I was wondering that myself.

Shoot me a mail with your phone number.

IanS

 

Looks like a V1 to me.
http://www.vanillaice.com/webmasters...orenengine.jpg
-hype

 

Laugh...that is my exact SC...I bought it FROM Loren.

 

lol I forgot that he was selling his. Now you know how it used to look
-hype

 

What does lol/LoL mean? Sorry to ask such a newbie question but I see it all the time and have not been able to figure it out...

 

Laugh out Loud
Lots of laughs, just a "that was really funny comment"

 

Right now, I'm using the Harlan RPM switch as a shift light. Others who have the Harlan shiftlight (basically the same thing as the RPM switch) observe as I have that the switch has a delay of about 200 rpm when going WOT. So if you are setting the switch at 5000, it is actually activating at 5200 rpm. If you feather the throttle so it reaches your set rpm gradually, it will be right on the money. Kind of a quirk but I guess WOT is what counts so adjust your set point accordingly. Since peak stock HP is at 5200, it makes sense to set the rpm switch to 5000 as you have done...

 

Good point. I agree that it seems to delay just a little but it is all good. We'll make sure on the dyno tomorrow which is at 11AM MST that we have it set at the setting.

John

 

Actually, the Harlan shiftlight is very accurate at WOT, it's the tach that is off. Verified on the dyno. The shiftlight is mounted to coil #1 which shows exact rpm. The tach is spun by a cable therefore there is error has the cable spins fast (ie WOT).


Dave

 

Not sure. If you look at Ian's dyno with a 5k rpm setpt, a dip (presumably from the valve opening) occurs maybe 120rpm or so later...