Is it bad to unwrap the "wire cluster" in the engine bay?
#1
Is it bad to unwrap the "wire cluster" in the engine bay?
You know the one -- that goes over the middle of the engine...by the fuel rail???
any tips???
do I have to re-wrap it with electrical tape?
any tips whatsoever?
thanks,
FLO_BOY
any tips???
do I have to re-wrap it with electrical tape?
any tips whatsoever?
thanks,
FLO_BOY
#2
Re: Is it bad to unwrap the "wire cluster" in the engine bay?
FLO_BOY
In the first few years of the 4th gen, I believe the wire harness routed on the engine inside a hard tube. I believe it was replaced with either corrugated tube (flexible), a sleeve or some taping.
I would recommend redoing the covering/protection as it was before because of several reasons:
Looks cleaner
Less chance of getting the loose wires snapped/damaged
I would also advise you to look at the routing of the harness on the engine. Engine (EGI harness) is designed to withstand the engine heat and vibration. The wire size is typically upgauged one size to withstand vibration. Any contact with a sharp bracket edge or engine burr and vibration over time will rip right through the wire. That's why you'll notice different types of protection over different areas of the harness.
If the section originally had tape, they might have used a special thick tape which is DIFFERENT from electrical tape which is thinner. If the tape is gray in color (not black), it's usually heat resistant tape.
The wires will melt if they come in contact with hot sections of the engine (e.g., exhaust, some engine parts).
Hope it helps. If you have any questions, let me know and I'll see if I can help out some more.
In the first few years of the 4th gen, I believe the wire harness routed on the engine inside a hard tube. I believe it was replaced with either corrugated tube (flexible), a sleeve or some taping.
I would recommend redoing the covering/protection as it was before because of several reasons:
Looks cleaner
Less chance of getting the loose wires snapped/damaged
I would also advise you to look at the routing of the harness on the engine. Engine (EGI harness) is designed to withstand the engine heat and vibration. The wire size is typically upgauged one size to withstand vibration. Any contact with a sharp bracket edge or engine burr and vibration over time will rip right through the wire. That's why you'll notice different types of protection over different areas of the harness.
If the section originally had tape, they might have used a special thick tape which is DIFFERENT from electrical tape which is thinner. If the tape is gray in color (not black), it's usually heat resistant tape.
The wires will melt if they come in contact with hot sections of the engine (e.g., exhaust, some engine parts).
Hope it helps. If you have any questions, let me know and I'll see if I can help out some more.
#3
Re: Re: Is it bad to unwrap the "wire cluster" in the engine bay?
Originally posted by pocketrocket
Hope it helps. If you have any questions, let me know and I'll see if I can help out some more.
Hope it helps. If you have any questions, let me know and I'll see if I can help out some more.
This DEFINITELY helps, Thank You!
Basically, I think I've isolated my current car issues (jerky acceleration, car dying) to bad ground wires...I need to unravel the
tape surrounding the wires, and hopefully correct my ground issue...
thanks again,
FLO_BOY
#4
Re: Re: Re: Is it bad to unwrap the "wire cluster" in the engine bay?
Make sure you replace ground wires with an equal size or bigger.
Misconception: people think it's ok to use smaller wires for ground wires but the reality of it is you have the same current going through the positive and ground.
You probably already know this but most ground wires in Nissans will be solid black or black with a white or yellow stripe.
I would suggest that before you replace your ground wires, you pinpoint the circuits (connector to ground eyelet), then disconnect the connector and measure the resistance from connector terminal (of the ground circuit) to the eyelet.
Anything close to 0 ohms & I'll leave that circuit alone. No point going through all that trouble for nothing.
Another suggestion, look for your ground eyelets to the body's metal frame, take them off if you think they might be poor and clean any rust, etc that might be causing you to have improper grounds. If you're changing ground screws, make sure you use the proper screws (paint-cutting thread on the tip).
Misconception: people think it's ok to use smaller wires for ground wires but the reality of it is you have the same current going through the positive and ground.
You probably already know this but most ground wires in Nissans will be solid black or black with a white or yellow stripe.
I would suggest that before you replace your ground wires, you pinpoint the circuits (connector to ground eyelet), then disconnect the connector and measure the resistance from connector terminal (of the ground circuit) to the eyelet.
Anything close to 0 ohms & I'll leave that circuit alone. No point going through all that trouble for nothing.
Another suggestion, look for your ground eyelets to the body's metal frame, take them off if you think they might be poor and clean any rust, etc that might be causing you to have improper grounds. If you're changing ground screws, make sure you use the proper screws (paint-cutting thread on the tip).
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Viralkill
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
1
08-17-2015 10:54 AM
Nintensity
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
9
08-13-2015 05:41 PM