Turn signal won't disengage.......
#1
Turn signal won't disengage.......
Hey guys. When I signal to turn a corner and make the corner, the signal doesn't turn off. Then I go like a block and feel like a dork when I notice. Is it just the turn signal stock, or is it part of the steering wheel? I can change the stock, its not hard, but I wanna make sure that is the problem!
Thanks guys and have a great day!
Kevin
Thanks guys and have a great day!
Kevin
#3
a98maximase: It's possible that the little cam and follower mechanism is broken >>
Originally posted by a98maximase
Hey guys. When I signal to turn a corner and make the corner, the signal doesn't turn off. Then I go like a block and feel like a dork when I notice. Is it just the turn signal stock, or is it part of the steering wheel? I can change the stock, its not hard, but I wanna make sure that is the problem!
Thanks guys and have a great day!
Kevin
Hey guys. When I signal to turn a corner and make the corner, the signal doesn't turn off. Then I go like a block and feel like a dork when I notice. Is it just the turn signal stock, or is it part of the steering wheel? I can change the stock, its not hard, but I wanna make sure that is the problem!
Thanks guys and have a great day!
Kevin
Remove the stalk from the steering column and check that portion out.
#4
Super old dead thread, but apparently nobody ever addressed this issue on the forum, so here's some info.
It's this pictured thing. 100%. It breaks. I haven't figured out why or how, but when it crumbles, your blinkers will no longer self-cancel.
Replacement: Take off the airbag: 2x T-50 safety torx on either side, unplug 2 plugs, 19MM center nut, MARK ALIGNMENT. There's a lil dot, just make a mark somewhere so you can line up the steering wheel on the spline assembly correctly on reassembly. Or just have it straight/level when you take it apart works too. You'll need to remove that underdash panel too (2x philips, clips, unplug buzzer) to get access to the 6x philips screws holding the steering column shroud together. Once that's off, 4x philips to remove the rotatey-ringy-thing and let it hang. 2x philips on each side to remove the blinker and wiper stalks. 3x Philips to remove the shattered/destroyed piece that is right in front of you. Replace, reassemble, enjoy.
Notes:
This instruction was purely by memory, so it might be off by a bit.
Don't overtighten the 19MM nut or the steering wheel will offer a bunch of resistance to turning. In other words: don't use an impact tool for tightening. (oops)
Two pictures attached. Yellow is for Maxima, Blue is for i30. They are slightly different. For my i30, I ghetto rigged up a yellow version with some metal studs that lasted over 100k miles, but eventually got obliterated. I recommend getting the right part for your car (duh).
This repair is easy if you're patient, careful, attentive, and have a T-50 TamperProof Torx bit.
It's this pictured thing. 100%. It breaks. I haven't figured out why or how, but when it crumbles, your blinkers will no longer self-cancel.
Replacement: Take off the airbag: 2x T-50 safety torx on either side, unplug 2 plugs, 19MM center nut, MARK ALIGNMENT. There's a lil dot, just make a mark somewhere so you can line up the steering wheel on the spline assembly correctly on reassembly. Or just have it straight/level when you take it apart works too. You'll need to remove that underdash panel too (2x philips, clips, unplug buzzer) to get access to the 6x philips screws holding the steering column shroud together. Once that's off, 4x philips to remove the rotatey-ringy-thing and let it hang. 2x philips on each side to remove the blinker and wiper stalks. 3x Philips to remove the shattered/destroyed piece that is right in front of you. Replace, reassemble, enjoy.
Notes:
This instruction was purely by memory, so it might be off by a bit.
Don't overtighten the 19MM nut or the steering wheel will offer a bunch of resistance to turning. In other words: don't use an impact tool for tightening. (oops)
Two pictures attached. Yellow is for Maxima, Blue is for i30. They are slightly different. For my i30, I ghetto rigged up a yellow version with some metal studs that lasted over 100k miles, but eventually got obliterated. I recommend getting the right part for your car (duh).
This repair is easy if you're patient, careful, attentive, and have a T-50 TamperProof Torx bit.
#5
Update:
The part itself is called a "combination switch" and there's actually a section in the Haynes manual that tells you how to take it out.
Update#2 is I'm not really sure how I managed to screw it up TWICE, but I ended up shearing off the nubs AGAIN---I'm assuming because I tightened that 19MM too tight which pushes the assembly down the shaft and it gets resistance from the bearing assembly. So if you replace this, just tighten that nut enough to hold on the wheel and no tighter! My JY is an hour drive away, so I spent the time to drill some holes and thread some bolts in place rather than get a replacement part. Ghetto, but it works now and my blinker turns itself off again. At 242k miles, I'm not complaining.
The part itself is called a "combination switch" and there's actually a section in the Haynes manual that tells you how to take it out.
Update#2 is I'm not really sure how I managed to screw it up TWICE, but I ended up shearing off the nubs AGAIN---I'm assuming because I tightened that 19MM too tight which pushes the assembly down the shaft and it gets resistance from the bearing assembly. So if you replace this, just tighten that nut enough to hold on the wheel and no tighter! My JY is an hour drive away, so I spent the time to drill some holes and thread some bolts in place rather than get a replacement part. Ghetto, but it works now and my blinker turns itself off again. At 242k miles, I'm not complaining.
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