installed new rotors
07-14-2002, 05:47 AM
#1
Mauja He Mauja
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installed new rotors
Installed the rotors from the group deal and just took her for a ride. i used my old AXXIS metal masters, about 5000 miles old. With the stock rotors i was getting brake judder at 60 mph or higher, but with these i am getting it at 35 mph. Now i haven't tried braking hard, but i am getting a really strong vibration in the steering wheel, while braking at 35 mph.. my back is hurting from all the work, and now this. someone please tell me whats causing this? Is it normal for it to happen until the rotors break in??
07-14-2002, 06:34 AM
#2
Mauja He Mauja
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common ppl, wake up. i am dying here. i don't want to drive it and mess the new rotors. should i get new pads? someone posted that using old pads on new rotors is okay, if the pads aren't worn out..
07-14-2002, 07:59 AM
#3
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Posts: n/a
Originally posted by dba1999us
common ppl, wake up. i am dying here. i don't want to drive it and mess the new rotors. should i get new pads? someone posted that using old pads on new rotors is okay, if the pads aren't worn out..
common ppl, wake up. i am dying here. i don't want to drive it and mess the new rotors. should i get new pads? someone posted that using old pads on new rotors is okay, if the pads aren't worn out..
07-14-2002, 08:18 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 351
This might not be of any specific help but here's a few things to consider looking into...
1. What did the face of the pads look like? Good condition, any cracks or uneven wear? Do the faces of the rotors look like the pads are biting evenly across the entire face?
2. Do the calipers float freely on the slide pins?
3. Did you use a torque wrench when putting your wheels back on and progressively tighten the lugs in a star pattern?
4. Are your wheels balanced or showing signs of uneven wear?
5. All suspension components in good shape with no excessive play?
6. Did you consider your new rotors might be defective as well? Have the stock ones trued and put them back on for a comparison.
1. What did the face of the pads look like? Good condition, any cracks or uneven wear? Do the faces of the rotors look like the pads are biting evenly across the entire face?
2. Do the calipers float freely on the slide pins?
3. Did you use a torque wrench when putting your wheels back on and progressively tighten the lugs in a star pattern?
4. Are your wheels balanced or showing signs of uneven wear?
5. All suspension components in good shape with no excessive play?
6. Did you consider your new rotors might be defective as well? Have the stock ones trued and put them back on for a comparison.
07-14-2002, 08:23 AM
#5
Mauja He Mauja
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Originally posted by Sly
This might not be of any specific help but here's a few things to consider looking into...
1. What did the face of the pads look like? Good condition, any cracks or uneven wear? Do the faces of the rotors look like the pads are biting evenly across the entire face?
2. Do the calipers float freely on the slide pins?
3. Did you use a torque wrench when putting your wheels back on and progressively tighten the lugs in a star pattern?
4. Are your wheels balanced or showing signs of uneven wear?
5. All suspension components in good shape with no excessive play?
6. Did you consider your new rotors might be defective as well? Have the stock ones trued and put them back on for a comparison.
This might not be of any specific help but here's a few things to consider looking into...
1. What did the face of the pads look like? Good condition, any cracks or uneven wear? Do the faces of the rotors look like the pads are biting evenly across the entire face?
2. Do the calipers float freely on the slide pins?
3. Did you use a torque wrench when putting your wheels back on and progressively tighten the lugs in a star pattern?
4. Are your wheels balanced or showing signs of uneven wear?
5. All suspension components in good shape with no excessive play?
6. Did you consider your new rotors might be defective as well? Have the stock ones trued and put them back on for a comparison.
2. Yes
3. No. If i do use a touque wrench, how many LBS should i tighten them to?
4.Wheels are balanced. No vibration occurs until brakes applied.
5.Fine
6. Dont know yet. Thats why i posted it. I know other org members bought the same rotors.
thanks
07-14-2002, 10:04 AM
#7
Mauja He Mauja
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Location: Indianapolis, IN
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Re: installed new rotors
Originally posted by dba1999us
Installed the rotors from the group deal and just took her for a ride. i used my old AXXIS metal masters, about 5000 miles old. With the stock rotors i was getting brake judder at 60 mph or higher, but with these i am getting it at 35 mph. Now i haven't tried braking hard, but i am getting a really strong vibration in the steering wheel, while braking at 35 mph.. my back is hurting from all the work, and now this. someone please tell me whats causing this? Is it normal for it to happen until the rotors break in??
Installed the rotors from the group deal and just took her for a ride. i used my old AXXIS metal masters, about 5000 miles old. With the stock rotors i was getting brake judder at 60 mph or higher, but with these i am getting it at 35 mph. Now i haven't tried braking hard, but i am getting a really strong vibration in the steering wheel, while braking at 35 mph.. my back is hurting from all the work, and now this. someone please tell me whats causing this? Is it normal for it to happen until the rotors break in??
07-14-2002, 10:11 AM
#8
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 2,909
OK you should have never used your old pads. Pads are a one time deal and should only be used with the rotor they conformed to. I have heard of rotors being warped new from the wrong storage of them, that could be the case. It is very important to torque the lugs with a torque wrench!
By the way who makes the blanks for these rotors? I am concerned because of there price.
By the way who makes the blanks for these rotors? I am concerned because of there price.
07-14-2002, 03:15 PM
#11
Mauja He Mauja
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she is drivng very nicely. no more judder. i tried it at 50 mph. no problems at all. i guess those axxis pads were trash due to the crappy oem rotors. i drove 8.5 miles. i am gonna take it easy for the first 150 or so miles. next update after 160 miles of them being on. for ppl who are putting on new rotors, i strongly suggest to replace pads. especially if you were experiencing brake judder. i am sure the pads end up being un-even when the rotors are warped. i had RAY BESTEOS quiet stop, on my 4th generation, and i loved them. lets see how they work for my 2k
07-14-2002, 04:32 PM
#13
Mauja He Mauja
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by karguy
$80 and some change from Advance Auto. I am bummed out about my AXXIS metal masters though. 98 dollars down the drain . I guess i should have waited to put on the AXXIS with my new rotors. Damn oem rotors
Originally posted by dba1999us
I am glad that fixed the problem! How much do the Raybestos QS cost?
Both front and rears.
I am glad that fixed the problem! How much do the Raybestos QS cost?
Both front and rears.
. I guess i should have waited to put on the AXXIS with my new rotors. Damn oem rotors
07-14-2002, 04:58 PM
#14
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 51
Your Axxis Metalmaster pads (and old rotors) are probably glazed on the surface. Those pads are notorious for that if they are not broken in precisely by the book. If the brake compound's binder is not heated evenly and cooled in the break-in process, it can rise to the surface and deposit on the rotors and pad surfaces during later heat cycles, this causes uneven and inconsistant friction, much as you described. (juddering and noises)
You can usually salvage them by resurfacing or cutting the glaze. I've seen it done many times with MMs. You need to lay a medium grit piece of abrasive paper, abrasive side up, on a very flat surface. A piece of glass works well. Then in a random pattern abrade the pad's surface layer against the paper until it looks much like the surface of a new pad. Then reinstall and break-in precisely as prescribed by the manufacturer.
You can usually salvage them by resurfacing or cutting the glaze. I've seen it done many times with MMs. You need to lay a medium grit piece of abrasive paper, abrasive side up, on a very flat surface. A piece of glass works well. Then in a random pattern abrade the pad's surface layer against the paper until it looks much like the surface of a new pad. Then reinstall and break-in precisely as prescribed by the manufacturer.
07-14-2002, 08:30 PM
#17
Mauja He Mauja
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Originally posted by Gerry
I can't speak for the Raybestos pads as I've never owned them, but most standard or OEM type pads don't require much. The Metalmasters on the other hand, come with a very specific procedure that should come on a sheet in each box.
I can't speak for the Raybestos pads as I've never owned them, but most standard or OEM type pads don't require much. The Metalmasters on the other hand, come with a very specific procedure that should come on a sheet in each box.
07-15-2002, 09:26 AM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 157
Originally posted by dba1999us
so what do i need to do to break in the new pads and rotors. i don't have any instructions..
so what do i need to do to break in the new pads and rotors. i don't have any instructions..
07-15-2002, 09:55 AM
#20
07-15-2002, 07:05 PM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally posted by dba1999us
she is drivng very nicely. no more judder. i tried it at 50 mph. no problems at all. i guess those axxis pads were trash due to the crappy oem rotors. i drove 8.5 miles. i am gonna take it easy for the first 150 or so miles. next update after 160 miles of them being on. for ppl who are putting on new rotors, i strongly suggest to replace pads. especially if you were experiencing brake judder. i am sure the pads end up being un-even when the rotors are warped. i had RAY BESTEOS quiet stop, on my 4th generation, and i loved them. lets see how they work for my 2k
she is drivng very nicely. no more judder. i tried it at 50 mph. no problems at all. i guess those axxis pads were trash due to the crappy oem rotors. i drove 8.5 miles. i am gonna take it easy for the first 150 or so miles. next update after 160 miles of them being on. for ppl who are putting on new rotors, i strongly suggest to replace pads. especially if you were experiencing brake judder. i am sure the pads end up being un-even when the rotors are warped. i had RAY BESTEOS quiet stop, on my 4th generation, and i loved them. lets see how they work for my 2k
07-16-2002, 06:02 AM
#22
Mauja He Mauja
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iTrader: (32)
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 5,215
i did a write-up with pics that i emailed RUSS. he hasn't posted it yet. If you guys need the write up e-mail me and i can send it to you.
munachaudry@yahoo.com
munachaudry@yahoo.com
07-17-2002, 05:30 PM
#23
Originally posted by pjalst
Is it hard to change the rotors? Any special tools needed?
Is it hard to change the rotors? Any special tools needed?
Well, it can take more with friend and beer
.
07-24-2002, 12:00 PM
#24
Originally posted by Max_5gen
No, not at all. All you need: jack stand, 19, 17mm sockets with short ratchet, new rotors, friend full of useful advices, pack of beer, 1hr spare time.
Well, it can take more with friend and beer.
No, not at all. All you need: jack stand, 19, 17mm sockets with short ratchet, new rotors, friend full of useful advices, pack of beer, 1hr spare time.
Well, it can take more with friend and beer
.
R
07-24-2002, 12:26 PM
#25
Hope this will help ( long )
Hey dba1999us, it seems that you are not very lucky, I have installed my 4 new rotors last friday and saturday with my Axxis Pads that were installed on the previous rotors in august or sept 2001, believe it or not averything went just fine with no fock around, but there is few steps that needs to be done to achieve the same result. The Axxis pads were in incredible condition I was surprise to see how long they last, so I decided to slap those in even after reading your first mail about your install.
1- Be shure to clean the entire brakes system, it should take no more than 45 minutes per caliper assembley, I use a standard drill with a metal brush on it , it works very well to remove all the dirts and rust, this will ensure that the pads are slidding easily on the rail, and also that the piston is not jammed.
2-Deglaze the pads, even mine were ok but I did rub them in circle pattern on a medium sand paper on a flat surface before throwing in.
3-Be shure that your brake are bleaded and there is no air in the system.
4-You want to be shure that your car is properly align and the wheels are balanced before you start the jobs, a bad alignement can make the car shaky a lot specially when you brake, and this become worst after.
5- Some people focked up the camber alignement by hitting the front rotors very hard with the 10lbs hammer, spray WD40 before you start the hammering of the rotors and dont forget to turn the rotors eveytime you hit with the hammer.
6-If all this is done properly the only thing that left is to enjoy the perfect braking.
After almost a week those rotors are very smooth and efficient, but I took some time to break it down, I have been driving very smoothly since I made the installation and I can tell that there is not grinding or noise or shacking of any sort but I spended about 8 hours doing all this which include the painting of the caliper.
I hope this will help you, in the mean time if you have problems feel free to pm me, I'll be willing to help you.
P.S: Some of the suggestion here were made to me by member ( BigDogJonx ) and other specialists.
Cheers
AA
1- Be shure to clean the entire brakes system, it should take no more than 45 minutes per caliper assembley, I use a standard drill with a metal brush on it , it works very well to remove all the dirts and rust, this will ensure that the pads are slidding easily on the rail, and also that the piston is not jammed.
2-Deglaze the pads, even mine were ok but I did rub them in circle pattern on a medium sand paper on a flat surface before throwing in.
3-Be shure that your brake are bleaded and there is no air in the system.
4-You want to be shure that your car is properly align and the wheels are balanced before you start the jobs, a bad alignement can make the car shaky a lot specially when you brake, and this become worst after.
5- Some people focked up the camber alignement by hitting the front rotors very hard with the 10lbs hammer, spray WD40 before you start the hammering of the rotors and dont forget to turn the rotors eveytime you hit with the hammer.
6-If all this is done properly the only thing that left is to enjoy the perfect braking.
After almost a week those rotors are very smooth and efficient, but I took some time to break it down, I have been driving very smoothly since I made the installation and I can tell that there is not grinding or noise or shacking of any sort but I spended about 8 hours doing all this which include the painting of the caliper.
I hope this will help you, in the mean time if you have problems feel free to pm me, I'll be willing to help you.
P.S: Some of the suggestion here were made to me by member ( BigDogJonx ) and other specialists.
Cheers
AA
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