FSTB Installed!
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 463
DirectCarParts FSTB Install Write-Up
I went to eBay and won a bid on a front strut tower bar/brace from a person/group called DirectCarParts. By the picture the person/group posted on eBay and from what some of the people on this site said, it looked to be about the same FSTB as the one Courtesy Nissan sells, so I went for it. $45 shipped, so that was a good price.
For this bar, installation time took a bit more time than the 15 minutes that some have experienced. That's because of a wire harness that's attached to the driver-side strut tower that had to be repositioned to make room for the FSTB endplate. No big deal, but it does stretch some of those wires to their limits.
Here's my write-up for all those interested. I have a 2001 Maxima SE, so all 2000 and 2001 Maxima owners should be able to reference it. For 2002 and up, some of the engine bay components are different, so you will need to adjust for things like the manifold. I apologize that I can't include pictures, but I don't have a digital camera (I'm so last century! LOL! ).
Here's a disclaimer, before I begin. This set of instructions is only meant as a general guide. I am not and will not be held responsible for any damage or injuries that may occur from following these instructions.
And now the fun begins...
As mentioned in some of the other write-ups, you will need the following:
1) Torque Wrench - set to 34 foot-pounds
2) Socket for the torque wrench - 9/16" will do
3) Monkey Wrench
4) Set of Pliers
Step 01) Be sure your car is on a level surface.
Step 02) Remove the two endplates off of the FSTB.
Step 03) Set the thread length of the screws at each end of the FSTB to about 1-5/16".
Step 04) Remove the six gold-colored bolts from the strut towers. There are three on each strut tower, and they come off pretty easily.
Step 05) For me, there was a wire harness attached to the driver-side strut tower that had to be initially removed to make room for the FSTB. For this, I unscrewed the metal bracket that the harness was attached to, unclipped the harness, repositioned the clip from the top of the bracket to the bottom, reclipped the harness, and screwed the bracket back into place. There's room, but the wires are a bit tight now because of a lack of slack with the wires.
Step 06) Drop in the FSTB endplates on both strut towers and screw in the six gold-colored bolts. Don't tighten just yet.
Step 07) Put in the FTSB and screw it to the endplates. Again, the exposed thread length of the screws at each end of the FSTB should be about 1-5/16" for an even fit.
Step 08) Be sure the bar is upright and level. Go to the side of the car and check/adjust it as best you can. Tighten the bolt at each end of the FSTB to keep the end screws in place.
Step 09) Tighten the six gold-colored bolts on the strut towers with the torque wrench set to 34 foot-pounds.
Step 10) Tighten the bolts that connect the endplates to the FSTB. Use the pliers on the other end of the bolts to get a good grip on it.
Step 11) Double-check that the FSTB is level and has good clearance and drop the hood back down into place. Fire up the engine and test the windshield wiper fluid nozzles to be sure they squirt out the fluid with no problems.
Now take the car out for a spin and enjoy your new FSTB. For the 2000 and 2001 Maximas the fit of the bar should be near-perfect with good clearance all around (except for that wire harness).
For those who don't think they can do this, you shouldn't worry about it too much. All in all, it's a very simple procedure, and can be done within 15 to 30 minutes. Why pay a local performance shop to do this for you when you can do it yourself? The torque wrench can cost anywhere from $35 for a cheap brand to between $50 to $80 for a better one, but if you don't want to dish out the money for that, lots of auto parts store will lend or "rent" you one if you ask. The rest of the tools are cheap too.
Have fun, all. Peace.
For this bar, installation time took a bit more time than the 15 minutes that some have experienced. That's because of a wire harness that's attached to the driver-side strut tower that had to be repositioned to make room for the FSTB endplate. No big deal, but it does stretch some of those wires to their limits.
Here's my write-up for all those interested. I have a 2001 Maxima SE, so all 2000 and 2001 Maxima owners should be able to reference it. For 2002 and up, some of the engine bay components are different, so you will need to adjust for things like the manifold. I apologize that I can't include pictures, but I don't have a digital camera (I'm so last century! LOL! ).
Here's a disclaimer, before I begin. This set of instructions is only meant as a general guide. I am not and will not be held responsible for any damage or injuries that may occur from following these instructions.
And now the fun begins...
As mentioned in some of the other write-ups, you will need the following:
1) Torque Wrench - set to 34 foot-pounds
2) Socket for the torque wrench - 9/16" will do
3) Monkey Wrench
4) Set of Pliers
Step 01) Be sure your car is on a level surface.
Step 02) Remove the two endplates off of the FSTB.
Step 03) Set the thread length of the screws at each end of the FSTB to about 1-5/16".
Step 04) Remove the six gold-colored bolts from the strut towers. There are three on each strut tower, and they come off pretty easily.
Step 05) For me, there was a wire harness attached to the driver-side strut tower that had to be initially removed to make room for the FSTB. For this, I unscrewed the metal bracket that the harness was attached to, unclipped the harness, repositioned the clip from the top of the bracket to the bottom, reclipped the harness, and screwed the bracket back into place. There's room, but the wires are a bit tight now because of a lack of slack with the wires.
Step 06) Drop in the FSTB endplates on both strut towers and screw in the six gold-colored bolts. Don't tighten just yet.
Step 07) Put in the FTSB and screw it to the endplates. Again, the exposed thread length of the screws at each end of the FSTB should be about 1-5/16" for an even fit.
Step 08) Be sure the bar is upright and level. Go to the side of the car and check/adjust it as best you can. Tighten the bolt at each end of the FSTB to keep the end screws in place.
Step 09) Tighten the six gold-colored bolts on the strut towers with the torque wrench set to 34 foot-pounds.
Step 10) Tighten the bolts that connect the endplates to the FSTB. Use the pliers on the other end of the bolts to get a good grip on it.
Step 11) Double-check that the FSTB is level and has good clearance and drop the hood back down into place. Fire up the engine and test the windshield wiper fluid nozzles to be sure they squirt out the fluid with no problems.
Now take the car out for a spin and enjoy your new FSTB. For the 2000 and 2001 Maximas the fit of the bar should be near-perfect with good clearance all around (except for that wire harness).
For those who don't think they can do this, you shouldn't worry about it too much. All in all, it's a very simple procedure, and can be done within 15 to 30 minutes. Why pay a local performance shop to do this for you when you can do it yourself? The torque wrench can cost anywhere from $35 for a cheap brand to between $50 to $80 for a better one, but if you don't want to dish out the money for that, lots of auto parts store will lend or "rent" you one if you ask. The rest of the tools are cheap too.
Have fun, all. Peace.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 4,968
Re: FSTB Installed!
Originally posted by KennyLau
I went to eBay and won a bid on a front strut tower bar/brace from a person/group called DirectCarParts. By the picture the person/group posted on eBay and from what some of the people on this site said, it looked to be about the same FSTB as the one Courtesy Nissan sells, so I went for it. $45 shipped, so that was a good price.
For this bar, installation time took a bit more time than the 15 minutes that some have experienced. That's because of a wire harness that's attached to the driver-side strut tower that had to be repositioned to make room for the FSTB endplate. No big deal, but it does stretch some of those wires to their limits.
Here's my write-up for all those interested. I have a 2001 Maxima SE, so all 2000 and 2001 Maxima owners should be able to reference it. For 2002 and up, some of the engine bay components are different, so you will need to adjust for things like the manifold. I apologize that I can't include pictures, but I don't have a digital camera (I'm so last century! LOL! ).
Here's a disclaimer, before I begin. This set of instructions is only meant as a general guide. I am not and will not be held responsible for any damage or injuries that may occur from following these instructions.
And now the fun begins...
As mentioned in some of the other write-ups, you will need the following:
1) Torque Wrench - set to 34 foot-pounds
2) Socket for the torque wrench - 9/16" will do
3) Monkey Wrench
4) Set of Pliers
Step 01) Be sure your car is on a level surface.
Step 02) Remove the two endplates off of the FSTB.
Step 03) Set the thread length of the screws at each end of the FSTB to about 1-5/16".
Step 04) Remove the six gold-colored bolts from the strut towers. There are three on each strut tower, and they come off pretty easily.
Step 05) For me, there was a wire harness attached to the driver-side strut tower that had to be initially removed to make room for the FSTB. For this, I unscrewed the metal bracket that the harness was attached to, unclipped the harness, repositioned the clip from the top of the bracket to the bottom, reclipped the harness, and screwed the bracket back into place. There's room, but the wires are a bit tight now because of a lack of slack with the wires.
Step 06) Drop in the FSTB endplates on both strut braces and screw in the six gold-colored bolts. Don't tighten just yet.
Step 07) Put in the FTSB and screw it to the endplates. Again, the exposed thread length of the screws at each end of the FSTB should be about 1-5/16" for an even fit.
Step 08) Be sure the bar is upright and level. Go to the side of the car and check/adjust it as best you can. Tighten the bolt at each end of the FSTB to keep the end screws in place.
Step 09) Tighten the six gold-colored bolts on the strut towers with the torque wrench set to 34 foot-pounds.
Step 10) Tighten the bolts that connect the endplates to the FSTB. Use the pliers on the other end of the bolts to get a good grip on it.
Step 11) Double-check that the FSTB is level and has good clearance and drop the hood back down into place. Fire up the engine and test the windshield wiper fluid nozzles to be sure they squirt out the fluid with no problems.
Now take the car out for a spin and enjoy your new FSTB. For the 2000 and 2001 Maximas the fit of the bar should be near-perfect with good clearance all around (except for that wire harness).
For those who don't think they can do this, you shouldn't worry about it too much. All in all, it's a very simple procedure, and can be done within 15 to 30 minutes. Why pay a local performance shop to do this for you when you can do it yourself? The torque wrench can cost anywhere from $35 for a cheap brand to between $50 to $80 for a better one, but if you don't want to dish out the money for that, lots of auto parts store will lend or "rent" you one if you ask. The rest of the tools are cheap too.
Have fun, all. Peace.
I went to eBay and won a bid on a front strut tower bar/brace from a person/group called DirectCarParts. By the picture the person/group posted on eBay and from what some of the people on this site said, it looked to be about the same FSTB as the one Courtesy Nissan sells, so I went for it. $45 shipped, so that was a good price.
For this bar, installation time took a bit more time than the 15 minutes that some have experienced. That's because of a wire harness that's attached to the driver-side strut tower that had to be repositioned to make room for the FSTB endplate. No big deal, but it does stretch some of those wires to their limits.
Here's my write-up for all those interested. I have a 2001 Maxima SE, so all 2000 and 2001 Maxima owners should be able to reference it. For 2002 and up, some of the engine bay components are different, so you will need to adjust for things like the manifold. I apologize that I can't include pictures, but I don't have a digital camera (I'm so last century! LOL! ).
Here's a disclaimer, before I begin. This set of instructions is only meant as a general guide. I am not and will not be held responsible for any damage or injuries that may occur from following these instructions.
And now the fun begins...
As mentioned in some of the other write-ups, you will need the following:
1) Torque Wrench - set to 34 foot-pounds
2) Socket for the torque wrench - 9/16" will do
3) Monkey Wrench
4) Set of Pliers
Step 01) Be sure your car is on a level surface.
Step 02) Remove the two endplates off of the FSTB.
Step 03) Set the thread length of the screws at each end of the FSTB to about 1-5/16".
Step 04) Remove the six gold-colored bolts from the strut towers. There are three on each strut tower, and they come off pretty easily.
Step 05) For me, there was a wire harness attached to the driver-side strut tower that had to be initially removed to make room for the FSTB. For this, I unscrewed the metal bracket that the harness was attached to, unclipped the harness, repositioned the clip from the top of the bracket to the bottom, reclipped the harness, and screwed the bracket back into place. There's room, but the wires are a bit tight now because of a lack of slack with the wires.
Step 06) Drop in the FSTB endplates on both strut braces and screw in the six gold-colored bolts. Don't tighten just yet.
Step 07) Put in the FTSB and screw it to the endplates. Again, the exposed thread length of the screws at each end of the FSTB should be about 1-5/16" for an even fit.
Step 08) Be sure the bar is upright and level. Go to the side of the car and check/adjust it as best you can. Tighten the bolt at each end of the FSTB to keep the end screws in place.
Step 09) Tighten the six gold-colored bolts on the strut towers with the torque wrench set to 34 foot-pounds.
Step 10) Tighten the bolts that connect the endplates to the FSTB. Use the pliers on the other end of the bolts to get a good grip on it.
Step 11) Double-check that the FSTB is level and has good clearance and drop the hood back down into place. Fire up the engine and test the windshield wiper fluid nozzles to be sure they squirt out the fluid with no problems.
Now take the car out for a spin and enjoy your new FSTB. For the 2000 and 2001 Maximas the fit of the bar should be near-perfect with good clearance all around (except for that wire harness).
For those who don't think they can do this, you shouldn't worry about it too much. All in all, it's a very simple procedure, and can be done within 15 to 30 minutes. Why pay a local performance shop to do this for you when you can do it yourself? The torque wrench can cost anywhere from $35 for a cheap brand to between $50 to $80 for a better one, but if you don't want to dish out the money for that, lots of auto parts store will lend or "rent" you one if you ask. The rest of the tools are cheap too.
Have fun, all. Peace.
Might get my butt off the couch this weekend and try...
Re: DirectCarParts FSTB Install Write-Up
Originally posted by KennyLau
I went to eBay and won a bid on a front strut tower bar/brace from a person/group called DirectCarParts. By the picture the person/group posted on eBay and from what some of the people on this site said, it looked to be about the same FSTB as the one Courtesy Nissan sells, so I went for it. $45 shipped, so that was a good price.
For this bar, installation time took a bit more time than the 15 minutes that some have experienced. That's because of a wire harness that's attached to the driver-side strut tower that had to be repositioned to make room for the FSTB endplate. No big deal, but it does stretch some of those wires to their limits.
Here's my write-up for all those interested. I have a 2001 Maxima SE, so all 2000 and 2001 Maxima owners should be able to reference it. For 2002 and up, some of the engine bay components are different, so you will need to adjust for things like the manifold. I apologize that I can't include pictures, but I don't have a digital camera (I'm so last century! LOL! ).
Here's a disclaimer, before I begin. This set of instructions is only meant as a general guide. I am not and will not be held responsible for any damage or injuries that may occur from following these instructions.
And now the fun begins...
As mentioned in some of the other write-ups, you will need the following:
1) Torque Wrench - set to 34 foot-pounds
2) Socket for the torque wrench - 9/16" will do
3) Monkey Wrench
4) Set of Pliers
Step 01) Be sure your car is on a level surface.
Step 02) Remove the two endplates off of the FSTB.
Step 03) Set the thread length of the screws at each end of the FSTB to about 1-5/16".
Step 04) Remove the six gold-colored bolts from the strut towers. There are three on each strut tower, and they come off pretty easily.
Step 05) For me, there was a wire harness attached to the driver-side strut tower that had to be initially removed to make room for the FSTB. For this, I unscrewed the metal bracket that the harness was attached to, unclipped the harness, repositioned the clip from the top of the bracket to the bottom, reclipped the harness, and screwed the bracket back into place. There's room, but the wires are a bit tight now because of a lack of slack with the wires.
Step 06) Drop in the FSTB endplates on both strut towers and screw in the six gold-colored bolts. Don't tighten just yet.
Step 07) Put in the FTSB and screw it to the endplates. Again, the exposed thread length of the screws at each end of the FSTB should be about 1-5/16" for an even fit.
Step 08) Be sure the bar is upright and level. Go to the side of the car and check/adjust it as best you can. Tighten the bolt at each end of the FSTB to keep the end screws in place.
Step 09) Tighten the six gold-colored bolts on the strut towers with the torque wrench set to 34 foot-pounds.
Step 10) Tighten the bolts that connect the endplates to the FSTB. Use the pliers on the other end of the bolts to get a good grip on it.
Step 11) Double-check that the FSTB is level and has good clearance and drop the hood back down into place. Fire up the engine and test the windshield wiper fluid nozzles to be sure they squirt out the fluid with no problems.
Now take the car out for a spin and enjoy your new FSTB. For the 2000 and 2001 Maximas the fit of the bar should be near-perfect with good clearance all around (except for that wire harness).
For those who don't think they can do this, you shouldn't worry about it too much. All in all, it's a very simple procedure, and can be done within 15 to 30 minutes. Why pay a local performance shop to do this for you when you can do it yourself? The torque wrench can cost anywhere from $35 for a cheap brand to between $50 to $80 for a better one, but if you don't want to dish out the money for that, lots of auto parts store will lend or "rent" you one if you ask. The rest of the tools are cheap too.
Have fun, all. Peace.
I went to eBay and won a bid on a front strut tower bar/brace from a person/group called DirectCarParts. By the picture the person/group posted on eBay and from what some of the people on this site said, it looked to be about the same FSTB as the one Courtesy Nissan sells, so I went for it. $45 shipped, so that was a good price.
For this bar, installation time took a bit more time than the 15 minutes that some have experienced. That's because of a wire harness that's attached to the driver-side strut tower that had to be repositioned to make room for the FSTB endplate. No big deal, but it does stretch some of those wires to their limits.
Here's my write-up for all those interested. I have a 2001 Maxima SE, so all 2000 and 2001 Maxima owners should be able to reference it. For 2002 and up, some of the engine bay components are different, so you will need to adjust for things like the manifold. I apologize that I can't include pictures, but I don't have a digital camera (I'm so last century! LOL! ).
Here's a disclaimer, before I begin. This set of instructions is only meant as a general guide. I am not and will not be held responsible for any damage or injuries that may occur from following these instructions.
And now the fun begins...
As mentioned in some of the other write-ups, you will need the following:
1) Torque Wrench - set to 34 foot-pounds
2) Socket for the torque wrench - 9/16" will do
3) Monkey Wrench
4) Set of Pliers
Step 01) Be sure your car is on a level surface.
Step 02) Remove the two endplates off of the FSTB.
Step 03) Set the thread length of the screws at each end of the FSTB to about 1-5/16".
Step 04) Remove the six gold-colored bolts from the strut towers. There are three on each strut tower, and they come off pretty easily.
Step 05) For me, there was a wire harness attached to the driver-side strut tower that had to be initially removed to make room for the FSTB. For this, I unscrewed the metal bracket that the harness was attached to, unclipped the harness, repositioned the clip from the top of the bracket to the bottom, reclipped the harness, and screwed the bracket back into place. There's room, but the wires are a bit tight now because of a lack of slack with the wires.
Step 06) Drop in the FSTB endplates on both strut towers and screw in the six gold-colored bolts. Don't tighten just yet.
Step 07) Put in the FTSB and screw it to the endplates. Again, the exposed thread length of the screws at each end of the FSTB should be about 1-5/16" for an even fit.
Step 08) Be sure the bar is upright and level. Go to the side of the car and check/adjust it as best you can. Tighten the bolt at each end of the FSTB to keep the end screws in place.
Step 09) Tighten the six gold-colored bolts on the strut towers with the torque wrench set to 34 foot-pounds.
Step 10) Tighten the bolts that connect the endplates to the FSTB. Use the pliers on the other end of the bolts to get a good grip on it.
Step 11) Double-check that the FSTB is level and has good clearance and drop the hood back down into place. Fire up the engine and test the windshield wiper fluid nozzles to be sure they squirt out the fluid with no problems.
Now take the car out for a spin and enjoy your new FSTB. For the 2000 and 2001 Maximas the fit of the bar should be near-perfect with good clearance all around (except for that wire harness).
For those who don't think they can do this, you shouldn't worry about it too much. All in all, it's a very simple procedure, and can be done within 15 to 30 minutes. Why pay a local performance shop to do this for you when you can do it yourself? The torque wrench can cost anywhere from $35 for a cheap brand to between $50 to $80 for a better one, but if you don't want to dish out the money for that, lots of auto parts store will lend or "rent" you one if you ask. The rest of the tools are cheap too.
Have fun, all. Peace.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 463
Re: Re: DirectCarParts FSTB Install Write-Up
Originally posted by asu174
Wow. That's quite a complex, in-depth write-up for a relatively remedial project.......
Wow. That's quite a complex, in-depth write-up for a relatively remedial project.......
Re: Re: Re: DirectCarParts FSTB Install Write-Up
Originally posted by KennyLau
Better to have all the information than to have too little.
Better to have all the information than to have too little.
but nevertheless...it's really nice!
Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 81
Originally posted by djPlayboy
just got mine in the mail a couple days ago odered from ebay $23 also i have pics here at my homepage
enjoy!
just got mine in the mail a couple days ago odered from ebay $23 also i have pics here at my homepage
enjoy!
I just want my strut bar on.
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,909
From: Reno, NV
I installed this bar:
and that little wire harness your speaking of can be removed before you install the bar, then re-install the harness after the bar is installed. It fits with this bar.
Another thing, to get the drivers side end plate to fit properly you may have to cut away some of the goop used on the bracket that holds the airbox to the strut tower. It is easily cut and removed with a razor blade.
and that little wire harness your speaking of can be removed before you install the bar, then re-install the harness after the bar is installed. It fits with this bar.
Another thing, to get the drivers side end plate to fit properly you may have to cut away some of the goop used on the bracket that holds the airbox to the strut tower. It is easily cut and removed with a razor blade.
Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 81
Originally posted by Maximam
I installed this bar:
and that little wire harness your speaking of can be removed before you install the bar, then re-install the harness after the bar is installed. It fits with this bar.
Another thing, to get the drivers side end plate to fit properly you may have to cut away some of the goop used on the bracket that holds the airbox to the strut tower. It is easily cut and removed with a razor blade.
I installed this bar:
and that little wire harness your speaking of can be removed before you install the bar, then re-install the harness after the bar is installed. It fits with this bar.
Another thing, to get the drivers side end plate to fit properly you may have to cut away some of the goop used on the bracket that holds the airbox to the strut tower. It is easily cut and removed with a razor blade.
Originally posted by Silviagirl79
I ordered mine from ebay about 3 weeks ago for the same price. But I read somewhere that I could use a ratchet and a 14 mm socket. But this does not work as the nuts are too tight to loosen, I tried this a few minutes ago. How much is a torque wrench?
I just want my strut bar on.
I ordered mine from ebay about 3 weeks ago for the same price. But I read somewhere that I could use a ratchet and a 14 mm socket. But this does not work as the nuts are too tight to loosen, I tried this a few minutes ago. How much is a torque wrench?
I just want my strut bar on.
Originally posted by victor
a torque wrench will not help you to remove the bolts. you'll just have to use your strength. if anything take as hammer to your socket wrench to break the nuts loose.
a torque wrench will not help you to remove the bolts. you'll just have to use your strength. if anything take as hammer to your socket wrench to break the nuts loose.
I haven't installed my FSTB yet (waiting to get my alignment problem fixed so I don't get any flack from the dealer) but I've had a lot of experiance taking off bolts that are too tight. Use a 6 point socket if you have it, there will be less chance of stripping.
Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 81
Originally posted by spta97
To expand on this, one sharp blow with a hammer will provide more ft/lbs. of force on the nut rather than even strength with your arms. Another idea is to put a hollow pipe on the end of the socket wrench you are using for more leverage - oh and make sure that you are turning the right way.
I haven't installed my FSTB yet (waiting to get my alignment problem fixed so I don't get any flack from the dealer) but I've had a lot of experiance taking off bolts that are too tight. Use a 6 point socket if you have it, there will be less chance of stripping.
To expand on this, one sharp blow with a hammer will provide more ft/lbs. of force on the nut rather than even strength with your arms. Another idea is to put a hollow pipe on the end of the socket wrench you are using for more leverage - oh and make sure that you are turning the right way.
I haven't installed my FSTB yet (waiting to get my alignment problem fixed so I don't get any flack from the dealer) but I've had a lot of experiance taking off bolts that are too tight. Use a 6 point socket if you have it, there will be less chance of stripping.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 936
Originally posted by Silviagirl79
yeah I was told to use one of those hollow metal pipes to get more torque.
yeah I was told to use one of those hollow metal pipes to get more torque.
Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 81
Originally posted by djPlayboy
That too, or you can do like I did and use your tire as a foot prop and pull like theres no tommorow... just watch it when you get the nut loose I fell and busted my butt
That too, or you can do like I did and use your tire as a foot prop and pull like theres no tommorow... just watch it when you get the nut loose I fell and busted my butt
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,042
Originally posted by victor
a torque wrench will not help you to remove the bolts. you'll just have to use your strength. if anything take as hammer to your socket wrench to break the nuts loose.
a torque wrench will not help you to remove the bolts. you'll just have to use your strength. if anything take as hammer to your socket wrench to break the nuts loose.
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