.org,

My max is a 2K se (step-n-go). I'm concerned seeing so many posts of auto trannies going bad at different mileages. It seems like they go bad from around 11K ~ up. I have ~13K on the car and I'm a bit concerned that it'll be out of warranty before/if things start to go wrong. I can't help but feel my tranny has date with death right after 3yr/36K mi.

Are there any 2K owners out there with similar concerns, what have you done as a preventitive measure? Are there 2K ownwers out with high mileage and no worries(Please post mileage and build date)? Is it worth buying extra coverage from Nissan?

I'm tempted to drop the pan and examine the magnets for shavings. If there is excessive shavings with currently no slippage, does that tell me anything about the tranny.

please excuse the long post.

turbo dreams
woosh

 

I have a 2k automagic with 75K on her, and aside from a couple of routine tranny services have done nothing to it. Knock on wood, she still shifts as well as the day I brought her home(6/99).

 

After installing a transmission temperature gauge and driving around for a day and after that installing a tranny cooler what became clear is that sprited driving and stop'n'go traffic get the transmission in the unsafe temperature range 190-200F. auxillary cooler brought the temeratures at least 20-30 degrees down.

So if you want your tranny to live - Install a transmission cooler

 

I think anyone can get paranoid when reading the posts here but you have to realize that alot of people here drive "spiritedly" and that takes its toll on the trannies. FYI, the tranny is covered for 5 years/60k so you have plenty of time left. If you are really concerned, drop and clean the pan, replace the filter and refill with Mobil1 ATF.

 

Maksim2000
After reading numerous post about freezing cooler lines (I live in nyc), I opted against the tranny cooler. It sounded like for the summer months it would be great but not for winter. I don't think I could deal with popping it on in the summer and off for the winter.
thanks for the info ....having second thoughts. about that B&M cooler

I do drive very spirited, usually come muscling thru traffic if you can picture that .... you all drive max's so I'm sure u can...

kramerica72
75K is comforting to hear thanks....

 

I have just over 70K on my 2K Max that picked up in June 00. Build date is 4/00. I did have the first TSB done where they just replaced the TCM but not the solenoid. I think I was more paranoid than actually exeprienced any problems.

Anyhow I havent touched the tranny in 70k...no changes, no nothing which is terrible but car is shifting just fine(so far)

I am going to go in for a tranny flush in the next couple of weeks though.


BTW I didnt think Maximas had a filter for the trannys....do they?

 

Yup, they sure do, but it's a washable metal screen.

 

Overheating a transmission will destroy any transmission. It isn't just a Maxima issue. Some auto mfgs have better cooling and higher fluid capacity and is less of an issue.

Someone actually mounted a temp gauge to the ATF
Where was the sender? I can only imagine what the 'point to point' fluid temperature was inside the transmission. 190-200F is way too hot of an average temperature Anything over 180F is death to the fluid, seals, gaskets, solenoids etc. This explains why some leadfooted people are having AT failures.

A working ATF cooler SHOULD be standard on the Maxima. What was Nissan thinking to allow average ATF temp to reach 190+F, especially with all that HP and it being advertised as the 4DSC, sport sedan, ultra sporty.........

Magnets don't tell you anything about the transmission unless there are actual chunks from component failure. By this time, it is already to late and the transmission has failed. The magnets help prevent magnetic dust from screwing up and sticking to the solenoids. Shavings/dust are from normal wear/tear and are acceptable. Changing the fluid regularly will remove suspended particles and fresh fluid will lubricate better preventing wear. Using synthetic ATF(better temperature protection & lubrication) will also help.

13k miles is time for a simple transmission pan drain/refill. Stick with synthetic ATF. Also, invest in a cooler if you are worrying about trans life. Change ATF yearly(every 10k-15k miles) and you will never need a flush.

B&M supercoolers have a pseudo viscosity thermostat. This will help with those who have concerns with an ATF cooler used in cold weather.
Also, most coolers are(should be) installed inline(after) with the OEM ATF radiator cooler. The engine coolant will help warm the ATF if it gets too cold during winter use.

The 'OEM inradiator ATF cooler' will not provide any cooling in the summer because 180-200F antifreeze doesn't give enough change in temp to cool 190F ATF. It is a worthless joke. This is one reason why the ATF cooler should be installed after the OEM cooler. This is also a reason why everyone needs a transmission fluid cooler.

Plus, mocal/permacool and other companies sell fluid thermostats. This requires a little more installation work but is a cure for people who worry about the freezing cooler lines. Some people actually use cardboard to block of the cooler. This isn't necessary. Plus, it only takes a couple of minutes to bypass the cooler with a small tube for Northerners(Alaskans??) with extremely cold weather.

I live in RI and have installed many transmission coolers. I have never seen frozen cooler lines. This is the 1st time that I have heard about it. Who is experiencing frozen cooler lines?? ATF won't freeze around here. The lines, if installed properly, won't have any problems with cold weather.

 

I mounted the sender inline between the transmission and "inradiator" cooler. I can still get it to 180 with the cooler (like after a burnout and a 1/4 mile pass at the track)

I have a B&M "super" cooler mounted after that "inradiator" cooler(more of a heater if you ask me )

That's what I thought ... I was worrying about overcooling in winter and got the B&M cooler, but frozen lines - that's weird.